Smashbro came to me over on SRK asking for some advice on his setup, and I made some recommendations over PM's. I did warn him that it would be a lot of work though. [offtopic] I would offer to do the work myself but I'm working and getting a second degree right now, so I don't even get time for my own projects. I haven't even played a video game in a few weeks. [/offtopic]Fudoh wrote:I don't think this gives you any advantage.
The main reason for switching to DB switch boxes in my own case is that SCART is unheard of in the US, and SCART switch boxes are somewhat hard to find and expensive. On the other hand, these 4 to 1 VGA boxes are $12 US each, they're simple passthrough switches so you can do whatever you want with them, the connectors are more compact, and I know they're very reliable. I have heard that SCART switches can be not so reliable. Not claiming a fact, just what I've heard.
I put EL4583's and a few other things inside some of my project boxes, but I'm able to service them. I suggested that he keep the LM1881 in a cable, maybe inline in a mini project box, so that if he ever did have a switch box wear out it would still be completely stock, and therefore easily replaceable.Fudoh wrote: - you might want to put that LM1881 into the switchbox and not into the adapter cable.
I've powered LM1881's and EL4583's with the +5v output from the av ports on just about every major console, and haven't had any problems. They don't draw much power.Fudoh wrote: - the LM1881 requires power which might not be sufficiently provided by EVERY system
Good catch. In this case, we only need to worry about 220uF capacitors on the RGB lines, but you're right, they need to be somewhere. I should have mentioned that to him. The best place would be after the switching, wherever the LM1881 is. Technically not every console needs them, but I haven't found any to be negatively affected by using them. In my setup, I put them inside a switch box.Fudoh wrote: - some/most systems have "stuff" inside the scart headers (capacitors/resistors etc), so you need that transplanted into the HD15 headers.
Yes, the main problem is 480p from PS1/2/3. [wayofftopic] This was brought to my attention here a few months ago. Prior to that I didn't think it was a problem, because I had in fact used both an LM1881 and an EL4583 to strip sync from my PS3's composite line in 480p when connecting it to a Super Emotia. Of course I should have realized that a composite video output wouldn't actually be active above 480i, but it seemed to be working so it didn't cross my mind. Once this was pointed out to me I realized that the reason it seemed to be working was that my Super Emotia just so happens to work with sync on green! I need to get a scope and do things right... I never bothered to fix this because it works, but I really should get around to testing whether you can split the green line to an LM1881 or EL4583.[/wayofftopic]Fudoh wrote: The setup you now want does *NOT* support 31khz RGB from a PS2.
Anyhow, I did mention to him that he should try using component for the PS2 if he wants 480p. Keeping as many things in RGB as possible simplifies switching, but either a simple circuit to solve the sync on green problem would have to be tested or he would need an RGB interface.
Is there any other benefit to an RGB interface besides sync processing in this case? Doesn't the framemeister provide position adjustments? Smashbro, you'll have to decide if the convenience of having them available on simple knobs is worth having the unit.
~
Did a few fireballs, actually went a few rounds again. Decided the frame Meister was indeed amazing. WOW. 
..
