TV RGB mod thread

[MarkOZLAD]

In fact, I'd love some advice for modding a Samsung HiTron TV-488. I'm not having any luck finding the service manual, but it uses this Philips IC (TDA8841) - https://my.mixtape.moe/hiflqk.pdf.

Hi Buttersoft, I’m also in Australia. I have acquired a TV-348 (14” Samsung) which composite in/out on the back.

It also uses the same Philips jungle IC. 4481. Does this mean my set will also have RGB disabled in the EEPROM?
What’s the easiest way to test this?

It seems like the component plugs are soldered into a SCART pin-out on the PCB. If RGB is active, would this mean a simple desolder and swap in a SCART plug?

Any insight would be great

The set needs to have the scart option set in the service menu.

After that it is a matter of soldering in the scart port and connecting the dots based on schematics.

[ElectroGehirn]

Hello guys, i am new here, just want to ask where i could reach out for help with my philips 19pt825b/00 - fl4.26, not for modding, better said finding a way to get it working again. i was tring watch my vhf signal on air and then it made a poof sound (no cap is broken as it looks rn) and it wont turn on anymore, just showing its red led and giving up when i want to turn it on

[alamone]

Hi, I'm attempting to RGB mod a Sony KV-13M40, it appears to use "BA-4" chassis, the jungle is Sony CXA2061S, the microprocessor is M37273M8.
At the moment, I want to just do a simple mod of replacing the OSD with RGB input without trying to do a mux of the OSD.

I was finally able to get a picture, but the sync is unstable (wavy lines) and there is noise from the OSD.
I lifted the RGB input pins on the jungle, which are connected via 0.01uF caps to RGB output from supergun.
I previously tried connecting these RGB lines to GND via 75 ohm resistors as stated in OP, but this caused the image to be very dark and blurry, so I removed the resistors.
Composite sync is connected to composite video input via 0.01uF cap and 470ohm resistor.
+5V and GND are taken from pins 26 and 27 of the M37273M8.
+5V is tied to YS pin on the jungle via 10k resistor.

Picture from supergun. Note the wavy sync at nose of the plane:


Picture when YS pin enabled and no video input. Note that you can see "Video 1" text clearly:


Wiring to jungle (RGB input and Ys) and microprocessor (+5V and GND):


Am I missing something to stabilize the sync and remove the OSD noise? Thanks for any help.

[alamone]

I was able to fix the OSD ghosting problem by adding back the 75 ohm resistors to GND (I had soldered them in the wrong place, after the caps instead of before the caps).
However I'm having a problem where the screen filckers or blinks around every 2 seconds or so. I posted a video, capturing first with no signal but Ys pin on, and then with signal.

https://youtu.be/HjK6mj7zCkQ

[alamone]

This time instead of connecting CSYNC to the composite input jack, I lifted pin 4 (CVBS) on the jungle and connected it to CSYNC via a 0.01uF cap and 75 (well 83 since I don't have 75) ohm resistor to GND.
That resolved the periodic blinking, but now I'm getting periodic snow, and also some jailbar interference patterns as shown in the video.

https://youtu.be/_OKz93dmdv4

Almost working, but not quite...

[alamone]

OK, I fixed the snow, 5V to the YS pin is apparently too high, I used a voltage divider to reduce to 2.5V and now there are no more artifacts in the signal. For the wavy picture, I was able to reduce the problem by lowering the brightness pot from the HAS. So I finally got it working, next I might try to do a mux mod.

https://x.com/alamone/status/1929657195056205841

[Muzzy011]

Hello all! I recently picked up a couple of RF only sets and have been researching RGB modding them. One is an early 90s Magnavox RR1939C421 that seems to be hot chassis but the other is a newer Sanyo AVM-2508G that looks promising.

The closest manual I can find is https://elektrotanya.com/sanyo_avm-2507 ... nload.html but it appears to be the use the same PCB and ICs. The Jungle IC is LA76070N https://www.scribd.com/doc/202370624/LA76070N .

I checked for resistance between the terminals on the AC plug and the shield around the tuner on the board and it was reading about 0.7 M ohms. It also appears to have a hot "Power" area circled off in the masking on the PCB around the power supply components.

Does this seem like a hot chassis unit or does it look ok to proceed with experimentation? Any additional items I can check to rule out hot chassis? Thanks in advance!

For anyone that finds this in the future, it does seem that this set can be modded (best I can tell its not hot chassis but do your own research before attempting!!!) but unfortunately I damaged it during the process. After some preliminary testing I took the board out again to add diodes to the RGB lines and when going back together I accidentally plugged the degauss coil into the wrong plug (an identical header near the back of the board) and now the image is distorted and black on one side.

Picture of what it looks like now and where on the board I made the mistake - https://imgur.com/a/88660Tt Does it look like a lost cause at this point?

Edit - Its not dead! I was testing it without the grounding resistors added back into the circuit and didn't realize how bad it would look with those missing. Still can't get composite in working but going to wait on additional parts before continuing testing.

Did you ever make it work? I got an exact TV in very good condition, with very good geometry. I also found this link https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... m2507.html, but I can't figure it out. I am not a stranger to electronics, but this is my first TV MOD

[gabrielgamer99]

https://imgur.com/a/XHx8pct

Has anybody seen video interference like this with an rgb mod?

I did an rgb mod on a Mickey Mouse tv and occasionally off and on I’ll get video noise only on the bottom half of the screen, like what’s posted in the photo

I tried my best to follow the path in the photos of the guide, I even went ahead and shielded all the wiring with copper tape, grounding the copper tape, then covering it with harness tape, which I think improved it somewhat

Using snes with high quality scart cables, issue also appears on Saturn rgb (would test with more but don’t have money for good scart cables and no good supplier in Canada)

Issue only appears on rgb, composite looks fine

The author of the original guide didn’t seem to use any fancy cables so not sure why I’m having issues unless a particular cap is bad but doesn’t show up anywhere else

Looking for answers, can probably use as is but if it’s not hard would like to make it so there’s no noise

(Have done two other rgb mods and haven’t had issues like this before)

Thanks for reading!

https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... 1350c.html

Guide I followed

[alamone]

Here's a video of the finished RGB mod for the Sony KV-13M40.

https://x.com/alamone/status/1931854355461963833

I'm using a VGA connector for RGB, I hate bulky SCART ports.

I tried to convert it to a MUX mod. While the OSD does display, it's very faint, but I don't really need to use the OSD much so I'm going to leave it as-is.