TV RGB mod thread

[takeshi385]

You guys are beautiful. The service menu fixed it. Apparently the factory defaults are wrong on my unit. I might adjust the vertical position as well, but currently for smw it looks right. I'm gonna wait to finish this mod because i am gonna add a sync stripper and have it connect with a switch. So i can use it when i need it.
I know default color temp and brightness are off as well. Only natural mode looks right.

[Syntax]

Add a sync stripper if you want but there is no point, the set strips sync inside the jungle.

Stripping sync at the console end of things stops composite video subcarrier noise from jumping into the RGB lines.

It will do nothing for you at the set end except add delay and cause an off center picture.

[takeshi385]

Add a sync stripper if you want but there is no point, the set strips sync inside the jungle.

Stripping sync at the console end of things stoops composite video subcarrier noise from jumping into the RGB lines.

It will do nothing for you at the set end except add delay and cause an off center picture.

I was just gonna do it so it can use sync on composite as well.

[Syntax]

It can by default though. I dont think there is a consumer set out there that does not accept composite video as sync. Comp video as sync is the standard.

Infact with some LG you must use comp video as sync or else it thinks your csync is luma and changes to svideo.

Some broadcast monitors require csync. That's about it.

[cargo]

Thanks Syntax. The problem is those 0.1 caps are tiny ceramic caps underneath the board, right under the jungle chip and in a very cramped area: (C363-C365)



I don't have the skills to work in an area so small but I think you are right. This would be the ideal place otherwise.

Make sure the OSD still has it's termination resistors, I couldn't see them on that end of the picture.

Really you should be pulling the leg of the .01caps which is furthest from the jungle, as Tim has already suggested to you..
That way you include everything upstream. Cutting at the OSD chip is a nightmare waiting to happen.

[Syntax]

In that situation I'd remove the caps and solder 100n caps directly to the Jungle RGB pins, it's nice and strong and can't lift pads that way.
Then use the other side of the bare pads for osd lines.

Don't sell yourself short on skills. Desoldering smd stuff is easy as.
I'm pretty sure Tim likes to press the iron on both sides of smd to melt the solder, my method is wick one side then heat the other, the wicked side is so thin it melts.

[cargo]

I see what you mean. Guess I should follow Voultar's motto right?

"It's THAT simple!"

I like the humor in his youtube videos. He shows how to do the smd removal with a lot of flux and a lot of love LOL

Anyway my main worry is I might accidentally desolder something else in the process.

[Syntax]

Ive only watched 1 of his videos but I must say seeing his fat tipped crappy soldering iron, then looking over at my 20 year old $15 fat tipped crappy Dick Smith soldering iron made me feel good. I shouldn't say crappy, its never needed retipping, its somewhat magical actually.

Point is I hate using thin tipped irons and I think its a lot of peoples belief that you need a thin tip and heat gun to work with SMD.

You don't.

Here's a fix I did for a Sega MD sound amp. The mono mixing was clipping and needed pull ups and inlines after lifting the left and right IC legs.
I was having a bit of fun trying to fit everything in a small space, tombstoning 2 of the resistors in place.


https://i.imgur.com/ezAw3iw.jpg

[MarkOZLAD]

I found a low cost TV design that fudges the OSD and SCART input together like this. I think it's the best implementation I've seen. Here's the manual http://etim.net.au/temp/forum/DAEWOO%20 ... V%20SM.pdf (see page 64 of the PDF)

You need to have a resistor in series with the RGB signals. This is because the new termination resistors (75 ohm) in parallel with the RGB video source (75 ohm) makes a load of 37.5 ohms on the RGB input from the OSD signal's point of view. This Daewoo TV puts 150 ohm resistors in series which lifts the load on the OSD signal. Too little or no series resistance = high loading (attenuation) of the OSD, too much series resistance = poor clamp performance. It's a compromise. 150 ohms looks like a good choice to me. The other important part is the RGB OSD signals must each have diodes in series. This way they are effectively out of the circuit when it's off. This prevents loading of the RGB input. An emitter follower + diode OR circuit combines the fast blanking from SCART with the fast blanking of the OSD.

Hey Tim,

I missed this post till just today.

I have been looking at a similar implementation. Thought I’d bring it to your attention.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxXDE ... W5xbUNBY00

Or from elektrotanya

https://elektrotanya.com/akira_3y01_cha ... nload.html

[fandangos]

I think I might be doing something stupid with my Philips Widescreen CRT.

After a couple hours of RGB Gameplay the TV went black and the remote stopped working.
I had so much experimentation with this TV that I don't even know where to start with a huge story about desoldering SMD and such.

The thing is, can someone check if this could have killed my TV?

1. I'm using a 3.3v line for blanking, when I used a 10k pot resistor I noticed blanking only occurred when 3+v where fed to the blanking pin. The original blaking had a 100 ohm resistor, so I added it to the common pin of my switch. This way 3.3v goes trough this 100 ohm resistor. The source of this voltage point is just a soldering point near the jungle IC.
So could this have killed the IC?

2. When doing some experiments, when using 75 ohm terminated resistor after like 40 minutes the screen would start shaking, tilting and the tv would turn off. If I remove it the image is really strong and I have to turn contrast down. This was the longest the tv worked, without any resistors.
So I tried 1k resistors in series and I started having bad interference. I could see the menu which was impossible while blanking RGB pins. It was a soft shadow. And this was the last before the TV wouldn't turn itself on anymore.

Any ideas? I'm really confused on this one. I'm feeling inclined to find another Philips Wide tv and try all over again but at the moment there's none for sale.
But before I'm doing that I really would like to figure it out what I did wrong.

[takeshi385]

It can by default though. I dont think there is a consumer set out there that does not accept composite video as sync. Comp video as sync is the standard.

Infact with some LG you must use comp video as sync or else it thinks your csync is luma and changes to svideo.

Some broadcast monitors require csync. That's about it.

For what ever reason I get a seriously messed up image if I feed it anything ,but csync or luma. Pikkon who has the same set has also experienced this. The only way I have been able to get an image to feed sync through the component y line. I ended up deciding to switch over to csync cables as the only systems i own that can't produce it naturally are my pc duo( i don't want to remove composite), my french n64 and possibly my Phillips Cdi. Retro gaming cables have solutions for the first two. For my cdi I might use a stripper. I would have to build it into a scart to scart connector.

[cloudstrifer]

Hi, with your help now i have 98% success.
Now i have 2 problems, geometry and focus in partial area, left bottom to be clear.

https://youtu.be/T_gh4RYV2uA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfyPzMe0Ugk

[MarkOZLAD]

evilsim,

The TDA9367 has the microcontroller built in. If it's software has not turned on the RGB input (and from your experiments it seems like it has not) then you're out of luck. There's nothing that can be done because there's no way to modify the internal software or intercept the communication between the microcontroller and jungle IC.

Tim,

Found this very interesting. Is there no possibility of doing multi-master I2C? Found this is in the datasheet.



The datasheet also specifies an I2C address of 8A and has all the I2C registers defined.

[buttersoft]

TDA is just the prefix for Philips parts. They are not significantly different from other brands. Being able to disable the RGB inputs over the I2C bus is a pretty standard feature to all jungle ICs that have I2C bus support. It's the microcontroller software that actually has control.

Oh i know that, it was just me letting off steam

Appreciate the other info you've provided lately.

[MarkOZLAD]

TDA is just the prefix for Philips parts. They are not significantly different from other brands. Being able to disable the RGB inputs over the I2C bus is a pretty standard feature to all jungle ICs that have I2C bus support. It's the microcontroller software that actually has control.

Oh i know that, it was just me letting off steam

Appreciate the other info you've provided lately.

It's funny because I've had nothing but success with the TDA's. Easily get RGB running with perfect OSDs on all the ones I've encountered (mostly because of post muxed OSDs)

TV selection for RGB modding vitally important -and a bit of luck never hurts either! Let's face it, when grabbing new sets to mod it's a gamble.

[buttersoft]

...Let's face it, when grabbing new sets to mod it's a gamble.

Yeah, it's a total gamble. The only TDA chips I've encountered with I2C have the RGB inputs disabled as well. And in these cases the aus region micom's probably won't have a SCART option, so having the remote to getto the SM might not help.

I'd kill for another Teac MV-2010 or three, the chassis in the one i have is really nice.

[douglie007]

I have this Woody TV its a Magnovox, and has Composite and Svideo inputs so far. its been unplugged because I believe it needs recapped the video starts flipping when the image gets dark. So when I take it apart to repair it, whats the chances that an older TV like this would be able to have the RGB mod?

[Pikkon]

Try and find the schematic for the tv or see what kind of jungle ic it rocks but the sony in the pic can be rgb modded easy.

[douglie007]

Try and find the schematic for the tv or see what kind of jungle ic it rocks but the sony in the pic can be rgb modded easy.

Cool, I have 4 of the WEGAs and I'm happy with the components, I really want to make one of my Woody's RGB so it will have an awesome pic that people wouldnt expect.

[lukilla]

Was it looking any good?, it´s not rare for old tv´s like that to have worn tubes. I mean, you could pick a daewoo from early 2000´s for nothing and it will look miles better. Anyway I respect your project man

[Syntax]

I've just acquired a 467 tube restorer.

https://youtu.be/Vw7nmuGdDs0

Perfect for those older dull sets.
Keen to have a play with it.

[fandangos]

I've just acquired a 467 tube restorer.

https://youtu.be/Vw7nmuGdDs0

Perfect for those older dull sets.
Keen to have a play with it.

Wow, nice! I have a few BVMs here that I bet could get a better image with it.

[BobWoggle]

Just did a Sony KV20TS29, another super simple one.

On account of there's no CCD board, there's an unoccupied header on the main board that connects straight to the RGB, YS, and Earth on the jungle, and another (or rather, holes for one) that connects to the standard AV in. Sticking my terminated signals there through their respective caps worked with no hassle.

[evilsim]

Found a 14" china CRT (Conwa branded) in the street near my place (there was also a 27" Panasonic there but didnt want to deal with another TDA so I left it) which is bundled with a DVD player.
Model is DTA1481 with a (oh maaan ) TDA9370PS jungle. Looks like a decent build too, compared to other china sets I've seen.
So, foregoing the RGB mod, this DVD player outputs YUV direct into the TV PCB, then into the jungle somewhere (havnt had time to play much). So hoping to do a simple YUV mod, Ive tapped into the PCB's link from the DVD drive. I can get a B&W picture using "Y" from my Wii, but no colours are added using Pb/Pr. So ; perhaps I am dealing with YCbCr ? I know for sure I have the correct cable from the DVD player as I can wire the lines in one-by-one between DVD and TV to gain colours on the DVD screen. Also this damn TV doesnt have a button to choose AV, only a button to choose DVD, so I am stuck there unless I buy a remote.

Does anyone know about Y Cb Cr to tell me how I can possibly get this set accept YPbPr ? The YCbCr picture looks good on the DVD channel, with its pretty DVD logo and background image.

manual https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/36/35 ... ake=binary
jungle http://www.datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/ ... id=1111058

[meleniumshane90]

Just did a Sony KV20TS29, another super simple one.

On account of there's no CCD board, there's an unoccupied header on the board that connects straight to the RGB, YS, and Earth on the jungle, and another (or rather, unoccupied holes for one) that connects to the standard AV in. Sticking my terminated signals there through their respective caps worked with no hassle.

I have the same set, but haven't been able to get RGB video to display. Can you post a picture of how yours is wired up so I can see if it's any different than the way I have mine? Thanks!

[buttersoft]

I've just acquired a 467 tube restorer.

https://youtu.be/Vw7nmuGdDs0

Perfect for those older dull sets.
Keen to have a play with it.

Mind if i ask how much and where from?

Wow, nice! I have a few BVMs here that I bet could get a better image with it.

Risky stuff to begin with, and ten times more so for Trinitron tubes, i hear. How do you know they need restoring though?

[nakedarthur]

Kind of random question for you guys. I noticed the blue was very strong on my KV-27S42, so I went into service menu and started adjusting the RGB Drive and Cuts. I have the Blue drive set all the way down to 0 now, but it seems like it should be at about -2 or -3 to be perfect. Of course I can't go any lower than 0, so I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do? And more generally, do you guys have any easy techniques for adjusting white balance? I was thinking I could raise Red and Green drives to compensate, but wasn't sure if I should open that can of worms yet

[MarkOZLAD]

Kind of random question for you guys. I noticed the blue was very strong on my KV-27S42, so I went into service menu and started adjusting the RGB Drive and Cuts. I have the Blue drive set all the way down to 0 now, but it seems like it should be at about -2 or -3 to be perfect. Of course I can't go any lower than 0, so I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do? And more generally, do you guys have any easy techniques for adjusting white balance? I was thinking I could raise Red and Green drives to compensate, but wasn't sure if I should open that can of worms yet

Could add resistance to the blue line.

[BobWoggle]

I have the same set, but haven't been able to get RGB video to display. Can you post a picture of how yours is wired up so I can see if it's any different than the way I have mine? Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/q3xli I've got 21 to E on cn101, 16 to ys, 15, 11, and 7 to R, G, and B through caps and to 21 through 75 ohm resistors, 20 to VIDEO, and 2 and 6 to V1 R-IN and V1 L-IN on cn401 and cn402.

20 could also probably go to V1 V-IN or V1 Y-IN on cn402.
it's worth noting that cn101 had a header from the factory, I just removed it.

It's a bit of a mess but I hope it helps?

[meleniumshane90]

I have the same set, but haven't been able to get RGB video to display. Can you post a picture of how yours is wired up so I can see if it's any different than the way I have mine? Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/q3xli I've got 21 to E on cn101, 16 to ys, 15, 11, and 7 to R, G, and B through caps and to 21 through 75 ohm resistors, 20 to VIDEO, and 2 and 6 to V1 R-IN and V1 L-IN on cn401 and cn402.

20 could also probably go to V1 V-IN or V1 Y-IN on cn402.
it's worth noting that cn101 had a header from the factory, I just removed it.

In case it wasn't clear, those numbers are for pins on the SCART. I'm sure you had that figured out but I have no confidenxe in my ability to communicate.

It's a bit of a mess to look at and my color coding is all off but I hope it helps.

Thank you for the info. Are you using '104' 0.1uF capacitors?