XRGB-mini Framemeister

[EmperorZelos]

I have used my gamecube only for sometime now but it works fine for a while but after sometime it seems to go nuts.

I have not reflashed it and I don't know what PSU is, what do you mean with reflashing it?

[Fudoh]

You should at least try another source to pinpoint the problem.

Re-flashing: downgrade the firmware and upgrade again.
PSU: try another power supply.

[EmperorZelos]

Oh the powersupply is not the problem, the device is on all the time without problem.

I am planning on trying a different source next time it resurfaces, but reflashing could work

[Fudoh]

PCE @ Mini revisited:

Today I changed the transition gear in one of my PCE CD-Rom² drives. While at it, I disabled the RF encoder in my white PCE unit. Noise on the Mini is mostly gone now, still I get some SLIGHT (and weird) interference on the screen. Kinda diagonal waves running over the screen in certain time intervals. I have two interface units, both have the same RGB mod. One's equipped with my white PCE, the other with a Core Grafx II. Using the Core I get no interference whatsoever. Perfect image. With the white one: interference again. Tried both PCEs on both interfaces and tried another white PCE unit as well. Same effect. It's really hard for me to imagine that there a CD/PCE combo with a white PCE out there that runs PERFECTLY on the Mini. Mr. Fagin ?

For HuCard playback both combos are fine using Sync Level 9, with a CD game the CGII combo is with fine SL9 as well, while the combo with the white PCE requires an increased sync level (12-15).

[Konsolkongen]

PCE @ Mini revisited:
Noise on the Mini is mostly gone now, still I get some SLIGHT (and weird) interference on the screen. Kinda diagonal waves running over the screen in certain time intervals.

I think I have the same on my 1CHIP SNES, only difference is that it's there all the time, and only shows in certain colors

Fast moving diagonal waves moving from top right to the bottom left corner? It's very noticeable on bright greens, the main menu of Goof Troop looks really terrible because of this

[Fudoh]

yes, bright green and light blue. I use Adventure Island for checking. Light blue sky and green woods up front.

And just confirmed my SFC with Yoshi's Island, since some people complained about the intro loosing sync. No problems over here. 1CHIP-03 with japanese Yoshi. Sync Level 9. As perfect as it gets.

[Konsolkongen]

Yeah I have one of the shitty SNES versions I don't think I'll look for a better one though, I rarely play that system. But if I find one someday cheap enough I'll grab it of course

[Fudoh]

Just having a blast to go through all my systems. Just hooked up my MD1. It's highly tweaked (raw sync + stripper), but doesn't have the clock signal from the video chip stripped. To my surprise, zero jailbaring on the Mini.

[Konsolkongen]

Pretty sure you mentioned that before in a PM Guess you have one of the good models. Not a big deal though as you can easily fix it and get a pretty great picture. There still is some ghosting/ringing in the blue colors on my Mega Drives, I wonder if that's any better on yours?

[EmperorZelos]

Okey, my little issue occured once more with wierdness in pixels and more but I have gathered some information

It occured regardless wether I have scanlines or not

720p50 & 1080i50 works flawlessly
1080p60 also works without any issues
It only occures when I have 1080p50 it seems, the moment I switch from that setting the wierdnesses disappears.

[Fudoh]

Pretty sure you mentioned that before in a PM

probably - hard to keep track of all the tech and it's been the first time in over a year I had my MD up and running last night.

[Konsolkongen]

And now that you're hooked you won't ever be able to put it away

I can take some pictures of the ghosting in Sonic 1 later so you can compare them to your MD1.

EDIT: If you want to of course

[Fudoh]

sure, take a snapshot. Nice opportunity to do a quick comparison. Your current MD model is ? Mine's a japanese VA4.

[Konsolkongen]

VA1, so the second revision (VA0 was the first one as far as I know). The other MD1 I have is VA5/VA6 (confusing, but it says both on the MB).

[BuckoA51]

All this talk of sync levels leaves me a bit baffled, I've never needed to touch sync level once for any source. Perhaps because I'm using the sync stripper cable?

[Fudoh]

Me neither. My white PCE is the only exception, but that was never a particular "easy" system to handle.

[Konsolkongen]

I've never needed to touch sync level once for any source. Perhaps because I'm using the sync stripper cable?

Yes with a sync stripper you basically get c.sync from your consoles so adjusting isn't needed. I use or modified all my consoles to output c.sync so I never had to adjust the sync level.

[Rock Man]

So mine came in. The PC doesn't have a micro SD card slot so I gotta pick up an micro SD to flash drive adapter, sucks I won't have enough cash until like Wednesday *grumbles*. In the meantime I am playing with the device as is which brings me to my question. Now, the Framemeister I bought although new, it apparently came with the old firmware I got the Japanese menus. I'm trying to tap 720p and 1080p. How to blind navigate between resolutions? Also, did the first update come with scanlines? If so I want to access that feature too.

Worth mentioning it totally and unequivocally fixed the PS2 problem there's zero blackouts. Even more surprising the noise I'm used to seeing in Component video - Gone. That's in 480p. I can't wait to see how Xbox/GC/PS2 looks in 720p.

[brentsg]

You can change the menu to engrish.

[Fudoh]

So mine came in. The PC doesn't have a micro SD card slot so I gotta pick up an micro SD to flash drive adapter

you can use the Mini itself as a cardreader. That's what the USB port is there for.

it apparently came with the old firmware I got the Japanese menus.

really ? Most units come updated, just not switched to english. Language switch can be found under the last main menu entry. The option is labeled in english anyway.

Also, did the first update come with scanlines?

if you hit the "C" button on the remote and you get a prompt to enable scanlines, then you're not on the initial fw anymore. Initially scanlines were only available in Meister mode.

I can't wait to see how Xbox/GC/PS2 looks in 720p.

for systems you don't want to use with scanlines, you should upscale to 1080p instead of 720p. Looks better.

How to blind navigate between resolutions?

that's not so difficult. You can take a peek into the japanese manual. There a page where the menus are listed and there're two entries right in the main menu for resolutions, one for HDMI video timings, the other for DVI VESA timings.

[Rock Man]

False alarm looks like it does have 1.08. I realized this once you told me how to select the English language, I recall the XRGB-3 offering the option to check the firmware and assumed the Frame would reveal the same thing, sure enough I was right. You're right about everything especially the 1080p option!

if you hit the "C" button on the remote and you get a prompt to enable scanlines, then you're not on the initial fw anymore. Initially scanlines were only available in Meister mode.

This appears to be the only mystery to me. Clearly Meister mode delivers scanlines but is there a button on the remote to allow scanlines in any mode? I can't seem to apply aside from Meister mode.

[BuckoA51]

You get noise in component video even on the GAME_IN port on your XRGB3? Also, did you switch to luma for sync on your PS2 and still got blackouts?

So, when you press the C button on the remote, what happens?

[Rock Man]

When I press C I get the V Line ON/OFF option. Was it supposed to be the scanline button? I see there's a button for meister, haven't found one to allow scanlines to act on all modes.

No noise on GAME_IN (XRGB-3) port nor is there noise in any other inputs except for Component. PS2 looks great in RGB it's just that no matter what I do even with the luma inside the modified SCART cable the XRGB-3 the blacksouts just keep coming back unless I use Component. It doesn't do this to me on any other console except the 2 Playstation consoles. But thank goodness for the Framemeister it restores the PS2 back to it's functional self at least on this picky display. Still can't figure why the Frame is rejecting the Neo Geo component though.

[Fudoh]

When I press C I get the V Line ON/OFF option.

yeah, that's for enabling scanlines in all processing modes. Meister Mode is just Game 1 + scanlines, so I would not recommend using it.

[Rock Man]

When I press C I get the V Line ON/OFF option.

yeah, that's for enabling scanlines in all processing modes. Meister Mode is just Game 1 + scanlines, so I would not recommend using it.

Oh I understand. Hm when I tried it last night it did not include scanlines (I was using the XBOX last night). I had to have been doing something wrong. I'll try again right now.

[Fudoh]

depending on your input / output resolution combination the Mini uses scanline set A or B and possibly some are preset to not show up.

[Rock Man]

depending on your input / output resolution combination the Mini uses scanline set A or B and possibly some are preset to not show up.

You're right as they're there it's just under certain picture modes between the source and the mini. Something tells me I'm going to be playing around with it for a while before I can remember each little menu function and how they work. Thanks F man.

[BuckoA51]

no matter what I do even with the luma inside the modified SCART cable the XRGB-3 the blacksouts just keep coming back unless I use Component.

So what's stopping you using component on the XRGB3 exactly? If it's noise free using GAME_IN then then there's not going to be that big a difference in picture quality.

A shame that the luma for sync cable didn't cure the problem, I was planning on getting one myself (yes, I have blackouts with the XRGB3 and PS2 RGB too). I guess I just won't bother now and stick to using component.

[Rock Man]

Nothing is stopping me really. I might pick up an RGB-to-Component adapter when I get the time. Know of any good ones?

Unfortunately the sync boost in the PS2 RGB cable wasn't enough for my display. But you never know, maybe your TV will fair better. I understand if you don't trust it to work it's quite the gamble.

[BuckoA51]

Hmm, haven't we been over this before, you don't need a RGB to component adapter for the PS2, just change the console to output component and then change the XRGB3 to accept component instead of RGB on the GAME_IN port.

Though thinking about it, RGB does tend to look better from the PS2 especially with 240p content, so it is a hassle keep switching them over I suppose.