XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Naiera]

I didn't get the cable with scart at both ends; I got the one that just replaces the Japanese 21-thingy adapter.

[vengerov]

I have NOTHING with Scart inputs (only a projector and a Lumagen Radiance

at least you got taste

Other than that: same above, check that all the grounds really connect from the source to the Mini.

thanks yo Fudoh,

i didn't understand at the first time what is the ground connection.

ii try to make this !!

thanks you.

[Naiera]

Turns out it was my cable that's completely fucked. One of the wires inside didn't even connect to the 8-pin mini din.

[rtw]

Turns out it was my cable that's completely fucked. One of the wires inside didn't even connect to the 8-pin mini din.

Was this a cable from http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk ?

[Naiera]

Yes.

Does anyone know of any other reliable sources for these cables? It's OK if it's a converter like the other one Retro Gaming Cables is selling; I'd prefer it was made by someone who knew what they were doing though.

[Konsolkongen]

Perhaps you can persuade KB2 to rewire the cable that came with the XRGB to EU Scart standard? It will not have the sync cleaner, so you MIGHT run into problems that you have to adjust using the sync adjustment in the settings. I have no experience with any of this, which is why I recommended that you bought one with a cleaner inside.

I had no idea that the ones from retrogamingcables were shit. Sorry :/

[mistahsnart]

Turns out it was my cable that's completely fucked. One of the wires inside didn't even connect to the 8-pin mini din.

I bought one of their EU SCART to JP21 adapters. The sync wire on the JP21 side wasn't hooked up, but instead had the 5V line from the EU SCART running to it. Methinks their cables are garbage.

[ekek2009]

Turns out it was my cable that's completely fucked. One of the wires inside didn't even connect to the 8-pin mini din.

I bought one of their EU SCART to JP21 adapters. The sync wire on the JP21 side wasn't hooked up, but instead had the 5V line from the EU SCART running to it. Methinks their cables are garbage.

Their cables suck I bought a male scart bnc breakout cable and euro adapter and they are poorly soldered and one of the audio leads didn't even work. Roughly $100.00 down the drain.

[BuckoA51]

My Megadrive cable from Retro Gaming Cables had the audio left and right wired backwards, but to be fair their customer service was really friendly and sorted the problem very quickly. Maybe someone wants to drop an e-mail to http://www.retrocomputershack.com/ and see if he'll expand his range. I've had no issues with the cables I've had from him for the Spectrum and C64.

[Smashbro29]

Everything has been going fine for me lately but for some reason capture isn't working with the mini anymore. Every other device put through the same setup seems to be working. I read that vlock might be the issue so I made sure it was on. My output is 720p @60 with vlock. I've been trying to mess with the settings to get it going is there anything else that might be messing with it getting the proper signal?

Edit: It... decided to work. Weird...

Cool thing I noticed in Mischief Makers on N64 you can use one of the zoom in modes but only until you get to any kind of lava level then for whatever reason the frame seems to get that much bigger and they move the healthbar.

[geekmiki]

Their cables suck I bought a male scart bnc breakout cable and euro adapter and they are poorly soldered and one of the audio leads didn't even work. Roughly $100.00 down the drain.

I can confirm this, I've been resoldering the MiniDIN to SCART adapter I got from RetroGameCables. The cables inside pop off as soon as you touch them.

[BuckoA51]

I read that vlock might be the issue so I made sure it was on.

If anything vlock would need to be off for capture so that the mini is outputting the standard refresh rather than whatever weird refresh the games console might be using, this should only be needed for things like the Blackmagic capture cards though, not the Startech/Micomsoft one.

[Fudoh]

It's a shame to hear about the quality issues with the retrogaming cables. I apologize, if I recommended you this store. I bought there a bunch of cables QUITE SOME TIME AGO and the quality was really fine. Seems like some stores can't cope with growing demand.

[BuckoA51]

I've found them to be excellent in the past too, a real shame.

[rtw]

Their cables suck I bought a male scart bnc breakout cable and euro adapter and they are poorly soldered and one of the audio leads didn't even work. Roughly $100.00 down the drain.

I can confirm this, I've been resoldering the MiniDIN to SCART adapter I got from RetroGameCables. The cables inside pop off as soon as you touch them.

Looks like I will have to open up mine as well then. I was also under the impression that RetroGameCables produced good cables. If I find any anomalies I will contact them.

[rtw]

I'm building a replacement power for the Framemeister since I don't have 110V. Could some kind soul tell me what the current rating on their power supply is (I'm at work just now and can't check personally) ?

[Fudoh]

5V at 2.3A

[rtw]

5V at 2.3A

Thanks I have a 5V at 2.5A here

[amaradona]

I bought 4 or 5 cables this year from them and no issues...just my 2 cts...

[arcadeswede]

I've noticed some "pixelpattern" in the color RED today.



I've also saw it in the GREEN and BLUE color but got rid of it after I switched to STANDARD instead of MOVIE in the image-settings.
Is it possible to remove this also in the settings somewhere?

[Fudoh]

Standard has a higher filter included, so you're just filtering away smaller details. It would be wiser to remove those artefacts in the source. On your SNES these are caused by the composite video signal used for RGB sync. PAL SNES units don't have a clean sync output, but if you use the S-Video Luminance pin instead, these patterns should be gone as well. This only requires changing a single pin either in the SNES' end of the RGB cable or inside the SNES (switching to two pins on the AV port connector).

[arcadeswede]

Thanks for the info!
Do you happen to know which pins it is in the RGB SCART-cable that I have to switch? I have the schedule of my RGB scart-cable a couple of pages back.

[Fudoh]

9 and 7 on the SNES output connector. http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav

[Konsolkongen]

PAL SNES units don't have a clean sync output, but if you use the S-Video Luminance pin instead, these patterns should be gone as well. This only requires changing a single pin either in the SNES' end of the RGB cable or inside the SNES (switching to two pins on the AV port connector).

I tapped clean sync from the video encoder on my PAL SNES. But even though it's a 1CHIP the picture is not very good. Very noticeable color flickering, shadows and that annoying vertical bar is present.
Would Luminance improve on this you think? And would it work through my Extron RGBHV switch that doesn't like composite video as sync at all (which is the main reason why all my consoles are outputting clean sync)?

[Fudoh]

I don't think that it would help and it wouldn't work through a extron interface or switch either.

It certainly helps the above checkerboard problem though.

[Konsolkongen]

I expected as much. Perhaps the universalppu guy will focus on the shitty video output of the SNES/SFC after he's done with the NES RGB

[BuckoA51]

Strange, I didn't see any checkerboard pattern using composite video for sync with the SFC on the Mini, unlike on the XRGB3 (see a few pages back).

[Fudoh]

that's a PAL SNES problem.

[arcadeswede]

Thanks for the tip Fudoh! It worked!
Is this "issue" something worth putting in the wiki?

[Thomago]

Just took comparative photos of the problem with progressive input I mentioned earlier.

Interlaced input: http://i.imgur.com/KrOzql2.jpg
Progressive input: http://i.imgur.com/srwAoK0.jpg

It's like the progressive input was shifted half a source pixel to the sides (which it isn't, of course).