Ok men,
I tried to read something about best settings on a Neo Geo MVS (RGB), but after 50 pages got no traces of them.
Anyone can help?
A sticky faq for each system best settings should be set...
akille68 wrote:I tried to read something about best settings on a Neo Geo MVS (RGB), but after 50 pages got no traces of them.
Anyone can help?
A sticky faq for each system best settings should be set...
How exactly are you connecting the MVS to the mini? Recommended settings were specified for the XRGB-3 on the wiki and were at times misleading and a matter of preference. E.g. Sharpness lowered to zero instead of the 7 default. If you're connecting the MVS straight from the JAMMA harness you should be using 220 ohm resistors on the RGB lines, set the A/D level, then brightness (22-25). The rest of the settings would be the same as any other console unless there's an issue with your display or connection to the mini.
Last edited by RGB32E on Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Fudoh wrote:that's no problem at all. You can always decrease the scanline strength and you can easily decrease the sharpness using the scaling settings (or by just using 480p output instead). 480p output with decreased scanline intensity looks very much like a classic CRT TV (with RGB). Whatever you like best.
You can make the MINI look as shit as you would like, to suit your nostalgic requirements!
lettuce wrote:I put this question to you then, if you could only have one (taking in all the pros and cons of each device) would you keep your BVM or Mini???
Don't ask him that..... he is like a gay that won't admit it, a smoker that has given up..... (insert a n other analogy in here).
I'm the opposite to Fudoh.... I'll use CRT until I have no choice. Luckily (whilst I still have a hole in my arse) I shall forever be graced with CRT's.
I'm looking for settings for my FM Towns Marty recently picked up.
I tried with composite and s-video cable, but I feel that the render is a few soft.
The status in xrgb-mini is 480i in composite and s-video.
Some of those settings are way off (low brightness setting for several consoles). Not saying they don't work well for you fagin. I take it that the A/D level set to max on the N64 is because you aren't using a video amp?
The only thing that I'm not satisfied with the mini is how the RGB levels work. In the XRGB2+ when you adjusted the RGB levels you'd get a gradual change. But with the mini the high end and low end of the spectrum stay about the same, while they may get brighter or darker, but I can't seem to get a gradual shift in the color.
At max RGB levels http://www.streetfighterex.info/picture ... 102000.BMP
And mid RGB levels http://www.streetfighterex.info/picture ... 102035.BMP
Meanwhile increasing the "black" just increases the stark difference between whats black and whats light. http://www.streetfighterex.info/picture ... 102341.BMP
Is there anyway to fix this with the mini without having to wire up some potentiometers?
RGB32E wrote:Some of those settings are way off (low brightness setting for several consoles). Not saying they don't work well for you fagin. I take it that the A/D level set to max on the N64 is because you aren't using a video amp?
The brightness settings are for my monitor and set-up...... saying they are "way off" is perhaps a bit niave considering you have no idea of my set-up or preferences. I find the PS2, XBOX and my PCE RGB mods to be strong.... hence I adjust the brightness down on the Mini. These types of settings are subjective imo. You set what you prefer the level to be. I normally adjust brightness against black levels.
Yes.... AD level set to max as I don't have an RGB AMP installed on the N64.
your brightness settings suggest that you got a mismatch between the Mini's output color space / RGB range and your monitor. When you use YCbCr output, the Mini still outputs RGB for some input signals, which totally throws off your monitor. You might want to force RGB output and if you already have, you might want to check your monitor settings for the proper range settings.
Via luck I tried messing around with the A/D, and that seemed to do the trick. I was originally around 128, I lowered it to 50. Now the tones are much closer to being correct. however too low and my CPS1 board stopped displaying on the monitor. I also had to adjust the brightness and black levels.
Thanks for the advice on setting up Wii VC on the mini a page or so back..
Finally got around to testing it, and it looks great resolution-wise (the status screen says its sending out 240p)... But it's incredibly dark! So much so that if I crank up the brightness on the mini to full, it's still a bit dim.
Sure I could crank up the brightness on the TV itself Everytime I play VC, but... Is there any reason why the Wii's 240p output is so dark? No other 240p content looks dark... And no 480i/p content does either (including the rest of the Wii!) odd.
PixelDharma wrote:Sure I could crank up the brightness on the TV itself Everytime I play VC, but... Is there any reason why the Wii's 240p output is so dark? No other 240p content looks dark... And no 480i/p content does either (including the rest of the Wii!) odd.
The lowered brightness/intensity is "by design", which in part is why it's better to use original HW with the mini over Wii VC in 240p. I believe it has to do with color sensitivity for a ultra low population percentage and to reduce the likelihood of burn-in/image retention.
PixelDharma wrote:Sure I could crank up the brightness on the TV itself Everytime I play VC, but... Is there any reason why the Wii's 240p output is so dark? No other 240p content looks dark... And no 480i/p content does either (including the rest of the Wii!) odd.
The lowered brightness/intensity is "by design", which in part is why it's better to use original HW with the mini over Wii VC in 240p. I believe it has to do with color sensitivity for a ultra low population percentage and to reduce the likelihood of burn-in/image retention.
But I'm trying to play Alien Soldier and the cart is $200
So it's Nintendo's fault? And no better solution to fix the brightness?
PixelDharma wrote:
But I'm trying to play Alien Soldier and the cart is $200
An amazing game. The EU version is optimized for 50Hz and will cause all kinds of problems when forced to 60Hz. So keep that in mind if you do decide to buy the game.
I have a Mini on order from Solaris and I plan to pick up a dedicated LED tv just for use with it.
Any suggestions?
I am looking for something 27 inch'ish and under. Would like it around maybe 22 to 24 inch.
I would also like something that would handle PAL 50 HZ signals if possible as I do have some PAL machines I plan to attach to the Mini (PAL Amiga and Atari computers).
I was looking at the Westinghouse TVs and they mention PAL support.
Amazon JP has a cheaper price, but I don't know what restrictions there are by purchasing from them. I bought mine from Solaris Japan, and it was more expensive, but having the support of a company when something goes wrong is nice.
My Framemeister turned out to be defective, and Solaris Japan handled contacting Micomsoft for me which is really nice. The repair is taking forever though. I really want it back before the new firmware is released.
NWrain wrote:Amazon JP has a cheaper price, but I don't know what restrictions there are by purchasing from them. I bought mine from Solaris Japan, and it was more expensive, but having the support of a company when something goes wrong is nice.
I seem to think they don't ship outside Japan. A month or so back I was considering them, but then I had to arrange to find a local Japanese person to ship to. Who I do know.. but it was too annoying, so I went with Solaris.
I have a Mini on order from Solaris and I plan to pick up a dedicated LED tv just for use with it.
Any suggestions?
I am looking for something 27 inch'ish and under. Would like it around maybe 22 to 24 inch.
I would also like something that would handle PAL 50 HZ signals if possible as I do have some PAL machines I plan to attach to the Mini (PAL Amiga and Atari computers).
I was looking at the Westinghouse TVs and they mention PAL support.
Do you want a tv or pc monitor, also what is your budget. If you have the money I would suggest the
Dell UltraSharp U2410 Is an IPS panel so will have great colours and good viewing angles, plus has a 6ms response time!!
NWrain wrote:Amazon JP has a cheaper price, but I don't know what restrictions there are by purchasing from them. I bought mine from Solaris Japan, and it was more expensive, but having the support of a company when something goes wrong is nice.
My Framemeister turned out to be defective, and Solaris Japan handled contacting Micomsoft for me which is really nice. The repair is taking forever though. I really want it back before the new firmware is released.
PixelDharma wrote:
NWrain wrote:Amazon JP has a cheaper price, but I don't know what restrictions there are by purchasing from them. I bought mine from Solaris Japan, and it was more expensive, but having the support of a company when something goes wrong is nice.
I seem to think they don't ship outside Japan. A month or so back I was considering them, but then I had to arrange to find a local Japanese person to ship to. Who I do know.. but it was too annoying, so I went with Solaris.
Thanks for the advice, I'll be buying from Solaris as soon as I can.
lettuce wrote:
Do you want a tv or pc monitor, also what is your budget. If you have the money I would suggest the
Dell UltraSharp U2410 Is an IPS panel so will have great colours and good viewing angles, plus has a 6ms response time!!
I would kinda like a TV, but not opposed to a monitor.
I think the U2410 is no longer available and the successors have more lag and are more expensive (the 2410 had 2 frames in standard mode and 1 frame in game mode). Have a look at the S2440L and S2740L. They are among the fastest IPS panels around (5-6ms total lag on the 27" model) and are quite affordable. No tate though.
Fudoh wrote:I think the U2410 is no longer available and the successors have more lag and are more expensive (the 2410 had 2 frames in standard mode and 1 frame in game mode). Have a look at the S2440L and S2740L. They are among the fastest IPS panels around (5-6ms total lag on the 27" model) and are quite affordable. No tate though.
Hi Fudoh
Thanks for the additional suggestions.
Any idea if either panel will do 50Hz?
I have a spare HP 2311x on hand to do testing with. Suppose to be 5ms panel.
Fudoh wrote:the 5ms is the pixel response time, not the input lag. The 2311x has 20-21ms of lag.
And yes, the two Dells I mentioned do 50Hz just fine.
Oh wow, thanks for that info. I didn't realize the HP had such a high response time. I guess i need to look at those Dell's closer once I get the Framemeister in my hands.
I've noticed when I connect my Xbox 1 via component to the Mini, it's pretty dark as well. I have to crank the brightness and then the black levels are all off. I wonder if I'm doing something wrong? Everything other console so far is about right....
broken harbour wrote:I've noticed when I connect my Xbox 1 via component to the Mini, it's pretty dark as well. I have to crank the brightness and then the black levels are all off. I wonder if I'm doing something wrong? Everything other console so far is about right....
Try raising the A/D level setting instead of brightness (e.g. 128 to 140).
Anyone using their Framemeister with a CPS3 setup (RGB)? If so, are you having issues with the Meister setting, specifically the scanlines? When I put it on Meister mode, the scanlines look fine with the exception of every 30th (maybe 40th or 50th...didn't feel like counting) where the scanlines seem to double. This is with 720p output.
Furthermore, what does "Master - As Game1 but with scanlines (obsolete since scanlines can now be used any time)." in the Wiki mean? How do you turn on scanlines with other modes?
the scanlines look fine with the exception of every 30th (maybe 40th or 50th...didn't feel like counting) where the scanlines seem to double. This is with 720p output.
same with NG AES. You have to adjust the V_WIDTH setting.
Furthermore, what does "Master - As Game1 but with scanlines (obsolete since scanlines can now be used any time)." in the Wiki mean? How do you turn on scanlines with other modes?