The PAL Gamecube doesn't support 480p, you'll have to buy a NTSC one with digital video out (and ofc the NTSC game discs). Luckily the component cable is the same for PAL / NTSC.Vixtro wrote:Next up, my Dreamcast and Gamecube only seem to want to output 576i/480i, I can't get progressive scan from them. It wouldn't have been too much of a problem since the picture is still great and the de-interlace option in the software is pretty good, but I cannot get full frames since it's not progressive...
I only have a PAL Gamecube and PAL games, so interlaced is all I can get with those? What about the Dreamcast, I'm guessing it's only possible to get progressive with the VGA box? (which is only compatible with certain games).blizzz wrote:The PAL Gamecube doesn't support 480p, you'll have to buy a NTSC one with digital video out (and ofc the NTSC game discs). Luckily the component cable is the same for PAL / NTSC.Vixtro wrote:Next up, my Dreamcast and Gamecube only seem to want to output 576i/480i, I can't get progressive scan from them. It wouldn't have been too much of a problem since the picture is still great and the de-interlace option in the software is pretty good, but I cannot get full frames since it's not progressive...
I don't know much about the Sega Saturn, but maybe a bad cable is causing the vertical lines?
indeed.I only have a PAL Gamecube and PAL games, so interlaced is all I can get with those?
most DC games are compatible with the VGA box - at least most NTSC ones, but I think the larger part of PAL library as well.What about the Dreamcast, ... the VGA box? (which is only compatible with certain games).
seems like a bad interference. I would add a sync stripper to one of the cables to see if it changes anything (I would assume it does). If not you have a bad system.As for the Sega Saturn, I have an official and third party SCART that was recommended by SegaSaturn.co.uk, both display the vertical lines shown above.
Should have realised 'NTSC favouritism'Fudoh wrote: most DC games are compatible with the VGA box - at least most NTSC ones, but I think the larger part of PAL library as well.
, I'll look into picking up what I need in NTSC then. Shame it's not that easy with the Gamecube though and well, pretty much every other console I have without applying some sort of hard mod (I hate having hard modded consoles).I wouldn't be surprised to be honest if it was just the Sega Saturn itself, although it's in good condition, it's a MK1 launch model and has been well used and travelled about a bit. I will go about adding a sync stripper though, always worth a shot if it might help. I have no idea about it though, had a quick Google search and found this: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/other/sync.htm Is that what I would need to do to, exactly?Fudoh wrote:seems like a bad interference. I would add a sync stripper to one of the cables to see if it changes anything (I would assume it does). If not you have a bad system.
I connect the RGB SCART cable to the Sync Strike, then from that it's a VGA cable to the capture card.Fudoh wrote:exactly. You can fit the LM1881 into the Scart connector itself.
EDIT: how do you currently connect your Saturn the capture card ? Doesn't your adapter already has a sync stripper integrated ? Doesn't the Startech card require raw sync by default ?
Right, like you said about it possibly being the Sega Saturn itself, I think it is. With the official SCART cable I can make the lines 'judder' by wiggling the connection in the back, but it doesn't do it when I use the third party cable. I think my best bet is to just get another Sega Saturn, I've always wanted to own a white Japanese version anyway.Fudoh wrote:The Sync Strike does already have a LM1881 inside, so that won't solve your problem.
So, if I get one of these: http://r.ebay.com/K8UnSn and do what Fagin showed in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X2Gszx0Ox4 that would convert my 480i/576i signals into progressive scan output?Fudoh wrote:You can use any upscaler you like to convert to 480p, 576p or even 720p prior to capture.
To gain full frames, interlaced signals only give me half the frames on the Startech card, so in theory, converting them to progressive should give me 50/60 FPS. Plus with the CGA to VGA scaler, it seems it would be possible (using a decent VGA splitter of course) to output the signal to both another monitor and the capture card at the same time.Fudoh wrote:yes, but using this kind of converter doesn't really make the picture look any better. What do you expect to gain compared to capturing 480i/576i ?
So something like this is what I need: http://r.ebay.com/PbqEX1 called fields, not half frames. Why don't you just run the recorded signal through a Yadif deinterlacer ?To gain full frames, interlaced signals only give me half the frames on the Startech card
That's fine for making videos, I've already used Avisynth in the past to make 50/60 FPS videos, but I need it on the fly so I can play it and stream it live.Fudoh wrote:called fields, not half frames. Why don't you just run the recorded signal through a Yadif deinterlacer ?
Yeah I found out it does help, doesn't get rid of them completely though. So if you get them on the SNES, it must just be a product of these old consoles, so my Sega Saturn must not be defective.lettuce wrote:I get the faint vertical lines on my SNES, but i believe that was just due to the brightness/contrast being up too high, i adjusted it and you couldnt see the vertical lines anymore....give it a go
If you have a modchipped machine then there's software that can force several pal titles into 480p. It's not something I've got around to trying because all but a handful of my Gamecube games are NTSC anyway, but its something to be aware of.I only have a PAL Gamecube and PAL games, so interlaced is all I can get with those?
Yeah? I might just get a model 2 Sega Saturn then and modchip it so it can play both 50/60Hz games.BuckoA51 wrote:I've never seen anything as bad as those lines on my Model 2 PAL Saturn.
Well if I just get one of those CGA to VGA scalers then I can output it all into progressive anyway, probably cheaper that way too.BuckoA51 wrote:If you have a modchipped machine then there's software that can force several pal titles into 480p. It's not something I've got around to trying because all but a handful of my Gamecube games are NTSC anyway, but its something to be aware of.
modchip's are cheaper I believe but not 100% compatible. Of course converting interlace to progressive is never going to be anywhere near as good as outputting progressive in the first place.Well if I just get one of those CGA to VGA scalers then I can output it all into progressive anyway, probably cheaper that way too.
As a general rule the Model 1's have a better picture. I'd try another cable first before you spend any serious money.Yeah? I might just get a model 2 Sega Saturn then and modchip it so it can play both 50/60Hz games.
There are thousands who watched Cosmo play Wind Waker every day.BuckoA51 wrote:Might be a bit of a cheeky question but, do you expect a lot of people will want to tune into you playing Gamecube games? I can't imagine wanting to sit watching a stranger play Zelda or Pikmin across the internet.
I'm not expecting it to look any better, that's not what I'm after, I just want it to act as a de-interlace really, just so I can get the full frames and without the interlacing. Basically what one would do during post-processing, I want that on the fly.BuckoA51 wrote:modchip's are cheaper I believe but not 100% compatible. Of course converting interlace to progressive is never going to be anywhere near as good as outputting progressive in the first place.
Like I said before, I've tried both an official cable and this third party one I have, both produce the same results. The third party cable actually seems to be a bit better because when I wiggle the official cable it makes the lines judder, the third party cable doesn't do this. It's just gotta be the Sega Saturn itself that is a tad knackered, the connection itself does look worn, but it's probably more than that, something to do with the internals.BuckoA51 wrote:As a general rule the Model 1's have a better picture. I'd try another cable first before you spend any serious money.
Lol, you'd be surprised, the last time I actually did a cast of Wind Waker, I had nearly 100 viewers. I've been casting on a site called Justin.tv since early 2008, I have a fairly good following. I'm not very popular these days though because I've not been able to cast as much since 08/09. I do it more for my own self gratification and to do these classic consoles the justice they deserve, too many people just use emulators these days...BuckoA51 wrote:Might be a bit of a cheeky question but, do you expect a lot of people will want to tune into you playing Gamecube games? I can't imagine wanting to sit watching a stranger play Zelda or Pikmin across the internet.
Oh my. Is this card on sale yet?blizzz wrote:Micomsoft has released a new beta driver v1.1.0.116 (Startech is 114). I haven't tested it, but what's more interesting is that this is actually a driver for the SC-510N1 card (the version with 1080p60 support)!
The driver ignores the colourspace. You can set anything (even a random String) in Amarec and the result will be the same.GregI wrote:I actually ran into an interesting issue with this card. In Amarec it states that the colorspace used is YUY2
BTW, the reason I keep using taking a shot right at the beginning of the game is because my CR2032 battery in my Sega Saturn died and I haven't been bothered to replace it because I just back up my saves on my Pro Action Replay. 
the card cannot capture 1080p60, so you probably have to set your XBox to 1080i60 and define the timing as 1080p29.97.Am trying to use my Xbox 360 with this via HDMI, have selected, w=1920, h=1080, fps=59.94, fcc=YUY2, bit=16 but i get this message...