XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Retro Access]

To capture the output on a broadcast capture device like a Blackmaigc you have to disable the V_SYNC option. On the initial fw, it wouldn't stay off for most sources. I think the problem persists for SOME sources, while on others it may work now. Simply check the FULL_STATUS page and see what the output frequency says. It has to be unlocked 59.94Hz. If it says locked 60Hz, the capture won't work.

Hey Fudoh, thank you for the info, I do not have a capture card as yet hence not dabbling too far in this. I will base my purchase of this on what works/if it works. So if it's reliable to an extent now, I am going to look into getting a capture card. I have always been turned off by the pricing of RGB capture cards, but now I have the Mini I can get an affordable HDMI one.

[Domino]

Does anyone run the Frammeister thru a LCD monitor that isn't a LCD tv? I'm thinking of doing a LCD Monitor setup with the Framemeister in the future.

[Konsolkongen]

The Mini supports several DVI resolutions for PC monitors so it shouldn't be a problem. Don't know how well they work with scanlines though.

[Shining]

Hello,

I as going to respond to your email in my ebay inbox but I see you posted here too.

PM sent

Right now i'm spamming eBay sellers with questions in hope of finding a 1CHIP US SNES. The best way in hoping to indetify it without taking it apart is by serial number and the black tabs on both sides of the connector? If anyone got a spare one i'll gladly buy it.

[darthcloud]

Hello,

I as going to respond to your email in my ebay inbox but I see you posted here too.

PM sent

Right now i'm spamming eBay sellers with questions in hope of finding a 1CHIP US SNES. The best way in hoping to indetify it without taking it apart is by serial number and the black tabs on both sides of the connector? If anyone got a spare one i'll gladly buy it.

All system after the GPM-02 version has black tab connector, it's useless to identify the PCB.

Only way is to check the serial number: SNES serial list

[Shining]

Hello,

I as going to respond to your email in my ebay inbox but I see you posted here too.

PM sent

Right now i'm spamming eBay sellers with questions in hope of finding a 1CHIP US SNES. The best way in hoping to indetify it without taking it apart is by serial number and the black tabs on both sides of the connector? If anyone got a spare one i'll gladly buy it.

All system after the GPM-02 version has black tab connector, it's useless to identify the PCB.

Only way is to check the serial number: SNES serial list

Awesome. Then a UN316 boxed with Super Mario Allstars will most likely be a 1CHIP. Most likely.

[Retro Access]

I'm going to see if I can't get better output somehow from a non 1 chip SNES this weekend.

Now with 3 SNESes, one with black screen on XRGB Mini without fixing the sync, two with no issues either way, I have at least some variation of signals. One of the ones with no sync issues is noticably better than the other two.

[darthcloud]

PM sent

Right now i'm spamming eBay sellers with questions in hope of finding a 1CHIP US SNES. The best way in hoping to indetify it without taking it apart is by serial number and the black tabs on both sides of the connector? If anyone got a spare one i'll gladly buy it.

All system after the GPM-02 version has black tab connector, it's useless to identify the PCB.

Only way is to check the serial number: SNES serial list

Awesome. Then a UN316 boxed with Super Mario Allstars will most likely be a 1CHIP. Most likely.

If the serial on the system is UN31 then it is a 1CHIP.

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

[Shining]

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

Absolutely! I have seen pics of the unit itself and the serial begins with UN31. As it is boxed and complete the price might get too steep though.

[RGB32E]

You're not helping with statements like that:

Also, I think I've figured out a solution for getting HQ RGBS output from any SNES

more details please!

I'm going to see if I can't get better output somehow from a non 1 chip SNES this weekend.

Now with 3 SNESes, one with black screen on XRGB Mini without fixing the sync, two with no issues either way, I have at least some variation of signals. One of the ones with no sync issues is noticably better than the other two.

You too huh? What's your plan for that?

What are the serial numbers of the three, and how would you rate each? You should send the info to darthcloud.

Also, what's the schematic for the sync buffer you're using in the 32X cables you make? Is it essentially the same buffer I shared a number of pages back?

[Retro Access]

You're not helping with statements like that:

Also, I think I've figured out a solution for getting HQ RGBS output from any SNES

more details please!

I'm going to see if I can't get better output somehow from a non 1 chip SNES this weekend.

Now with 3 SNESes, one with black screen on XRGB Mini without fixing the sync, two with no issues either way, I have at least some variation of signals. One of the ones with no sync issues is noticably better than the other two.

You too huh? What's your plan for that?

What are the serial numbers of the three, and how would you rate each? You should send the info to darthcloud.

Also, what's the schematic for the sync buffer you're using in the 32X cables you make? Is it essentially the same buffer I shared a number of pages back?

Well it isn't your buffer, I didn't see your schematic.

Listen, I have a competitor who copies damn near every cable I produce so I'm loathe to reveal much here because I hate it when the same identical product appears on his store... I wouldn't copy your schematic and sell it though, trust me. I get too riled when it happens to me. If I share any info in future it is not going to be under this name, because I think he does it just to annoy me, I have ample proof of that (bragging about using my ideas on one of my youtube ads.) I will let darthcloud know the serials etc.

Don't wanna import drama though so let's not even guess who this person is.

As for my plan for snes, I do not really have any plan because I have not even though about it til I noticed one snes worked better than the others. It was the broken one I mentioned ages ago that I have only recently got around to fixing. I am going to look at what's actually on the boards, how it differs, etc. I am also going to try to get hold of a one chip SNES myself. Because I don't actually have one yet. I am not trying to jump on anything you are doing, I somewhat envy the time you have to devote to this. I expect you will have some solution before me, it is just interesting is all and I don't even envisage I will have time to modify anyone's console but mine.

If I was trying to get on board any of your projects I would have jumped all over the digital audio you do for SNES. This is not an option to meddle with myself. I am hearing disabled and would not be able to tell the difference.

[RGB32E]

Well it isn't your buffer, I didn't see your schematic.

Listen, I have a competitor who copies damn near every cable I produce so I'm loathe to reveal much here because I hate it when the same identical product appears on his store... I wouldn't copy your schematic and sell it though, trust me. I get too riled when it happens to me. If I share any info in future it is not going to be under this name, because I think he does it just to annoy me, I have ample proof of that (bragging about using my ideas on one of my youtube ads.) I will let darthcloud know the serials etc.

Don't wanna import drama though so let's not even guess who this person is.

No need for you to make misleading accusations like that! I shared a link to a known site as I thought others (including yourself) could benefit from the information. I was simply curious if that was what you were using for the 32X cable or something else.

As far as drama goes, you seem to be both a magnet for it, and brought PLENTY when you started posting here with your eBay plight! No offense but you kinda have your foot in your own mouth so to speak...

[Retro Access]

Well it isn't your buffer, I didn't see your schematic.

Listen, I have a competitor who copies damn near every cable I produce so I'm loathe to reveal much here because I hate it when the same identical product appears on his store... I wouldn't copy your schematic and sell it though, trust me. I get too riled when it happens to me. If I share any info in future it is not going to be under this name, because I think he does it just to annoy me, I have ample proof of that (bragging about using my ideas on one of my youtube ads.) I will let darthcloud know the serials etc.

Don't wanna import drama though so let's not even guess who this person is.

No need for you to make misleading accusations like that! I shared a link to a known site as I thought others (including yourself) could benefit from the information. I was simply curious if that was what you were using for the 32X cable or something else.

As far as drama goes, you seem to be both a magnet for it, and brought PLENTY when you started posting here with your eBay plight! No offense but you kinda have your foot in your own mouth so to speak...

I never saw the link, I thought you had built a buffer yourself and thought I had copied it. Didn't realise it was a link to elsewhere, I'm sorry. I am deathly afraid of offending people because I am well aware this is a forum where people share info for free and I'm here as a known eBay vendor.

The eBay plight, I wanted somebody respected like viletim to confirm the cable could not have broken the console, I wanted to link the buyer to the thread but in the end I could not because of the amount of "that guy is an idiot" that was posted in the thread. I wish the buyer would have posted here himself asking advice, and I did originally link him here and asked him to post myself.

You should be aware though that I am not into making accusations, I was actually scared you thought I was profitteering off your work. I was downright terrified of that, but sod it all I've made it worse.

My use of language is just shit, absolute shit and I have been warned many times by people I know to stay off forums because people think I am trying to start a fight and then I can't back out of it and get all upset in reality. You are right about this sort of shit. I mean no offense at all.

[Shining]

If the serial on the system is UN31 then it is a 1CHIP.

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

The seller has now confirmed that the tabs are grey but the serial on the system starts with UN31 and "Eject" is molded. Just to make sure, do you think this still might be a 1CHIP?

[darthcloud]

If the serial on the system is UN31 then it is a 1CHIP.

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

The seller has now confirmed that the tabs are grey but the serial on the system starts with UN31 and "Eject" is molded. Just to make sure, do you think this still might be a 1CHIP?

The seller probably didn't check correctly, He saw the eject button tab rather than the connector tab that are below.

To me if the serial is UN31 it is a 1CHIP no doubt.

[Shining]

If the serial on the system is UN31 then it is a 1CHIP.

Be aware that a lot of seller "built" complete kit so if the serial on the box is UN31, it's quite possible that the seller put another random SNES in the box!

The seller has now confirmed that the tabs are grey but the serial on the system starts with UN31 and "Eject" is molded. Just to make sure, do you think this still might be a 1CHIP?

The seller probably didn't check correctly, He saw the eject button tab rather than the connector tab that are below.

To me if the serial is UN31 it is a 1CHIP no doubt.

Yeah you're right, thats probably it . I might go for a UN3094 as well..

You could always open up the system and share a photo to identify the particular RGB mod used?

Regarding my RGB modded Duo-RX not working with the Mini, i will be needing a special screwdriver to be able to take it apart. I tested a regular composite cable with the Mini and that worked flawless. So maybe i just need a different RGB cable..

[zak]

I just got an rgb modded snes mini. Can anyone make a rgb cable which works with the framemeister and sell it to me please?

[Konsolkongen]

The official Nintendo one will work just fine, if you can find one. It's product number SHVC-010.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk18 ... RGBbox.jpg

[Zapf]

There are plenty of other ones available on ebay as well - retro_console_accessories sells one with the same wiring / components as the shvc 010: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo- ... ccessories

You can also get the csync version but I don't know if that gets wired up in the rgb mod for mini snes.

[Konsolkongen]

No, that one won't work as it's wired for EU Scart rather than the Japanese RGB21 pinout.

Besides, from the looks of that picture in the auction the original cable is much thicker and therefore most likely uses thicker wires and shielding. Can't say if there would be any difference in picture quality though, but there might be.

For C.sync you will have to wire that up too when doing the RGB mod on the SNES Mini.

[Zapf]

No, that one won't work as it's wired for EU Scart rather than the Japanese RGB21 pinout.

Besides, from the looks of that picture in the auction the original cable is much thicker and therefore most likely uses thicker wires and shielding. Can't say if there would be any difference in picture quality though, but there might be.

For C.sync you will have to wire that up too when doing the RGB mod on the SNES Mini.

my bad (I never assume people are doing direct console -> xrgb connections these days)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo- ... 256b06c6f6

I don't know why we still are having discussions on build quality for these, they are very good, and I'm sure she can tell you more about the shielding on her more recent ones (they deviate from the picture shown, as noted on that page), as she has posted in this forum and this this exact thread before. I have a much older one from her that eliminated the diagonal noise I was getting from the cheap play-asia ones

[RGB32E]

my bad (I never assume people are doing direct console -> xrgb connections these days)

If you want the best picture quality, a direct connection to the device is best. The included JP21 to 8MDIN is fine for cables that require series caps, but switchers (no offense)...

[Konsolkongen]

Well you can get very nice switchers that still gives a picture quality that's so good that you would have to be extremely anal to notice the difference, but most of them probably suck

My Extron RGBHV matrix does a VERY nice job considering I had to use scart to BNC connectors for all the inputs and outputs. There is a tiny, like 1/3 of a pixel, shadow added to the right side of the "A" in the SEGA logo on the Saturn bios, and of course not a black shadow but a blue one like the letter itself, making it VERY hard to notice unless you have your eyeballs pressed up against the screen. Considering I have a shitload of systems I want to connect to my XRGB-Mini with both RGB and component, as well as my DVDO Edge and Optoma HD3000 (although I haven't used them at all since I got the Mini ) this switcher makes my life so much easier that it more than makes up for that tiny, tiny bit of picture quality loss. It also routes analog audio to my receiver directly, which is another very nice thing

I also just got a very basic Hama 4-1 switch a few weeks ago. I mentioned it previously in this thread. With this thing I was expecting some quality loss, but I really needed something to expand the number of inputs on my Matrix Switcher (which has only 8, and all were in use...). I decided to do Neo Geo MVS and Neo Geo CD > Hama switcher > Extron Matrix > XRGB-Mini. Since those are the systems I use the least, I will also use it for PC-Engine and N64 once I get those systems. But to my surprise there were no quality loss using this thing at all. I switched back and forth, with and without the Hama switch and there really was no difference. Granted I am using high quality cables for my systems and a very short 0.5m between the Hama and Extron, but I was expecting the box itself to be so poorly shielded or have bad connections that it would add interference to the signal, but that was not the case.

For fun I made this scart to 8-mini din cable that connects the Matrix to the XRGB, so I could remove the supplied RGB21 adapter from the chain. It made no difference what so ever, but it does look much nicer I think



Its definitely not that I don't care about picture quality, I really do spend far too much time and money getting the optimal performance on my setup. But if I had to switch cables every time I wanted to play a new console I would probably go insane

EDIT: I do unplug the power from my systems when I don't use them though. Leaving them on in standby would probably be crazy expensive

[RGB32E]

My Extron RGBHV matrix does a VERY nice job considering I had to use scart to BNC connectors for all the inputs and outputs.
...


Its definitely not that I don't care about picture quality, I really do spend far too much time and money getting the optimal performance on my setup. But if I had to switch cables every time I wanted to play a new console I would probably go insane

EDIT: I do unplug the power from my systems when I don't use them though. Leaving them on in standby would probably be crazy expensive

Well... It looks like you've done it the best possible way I can think of! I picked up a pre-built 8MDIN cable assembly from DigiKey that uses 20AWG conductors + shell drain w/foil. It's too beefy for the mini, but I see you're managing with that SCART cable you built! (Nice job!)

I was thinking about making a simple 2 way scart switch housed in a black brushed aluminum enclosure.... Use a 4 pole ON-ON switch for RGBS, and a 2 pole for audio. Have the audio routed to 2 RCAs, and the RGB fed through a 8MDIN cable (hard wired to ON-ON switch output). Since I only have two consoles out at a time, this would be fine with me! The biggest hurdle is that I don't have a mill to make the SCART socket cutouts in the aluminum enclosure!!!

[Konsolkongen]

Well... It looks like you've done it the best possible way I can think of! I picked up a pre-built 8MDIN cable assembly from DigiKey that uses 20AWG conductors + shell drain w/foil. It's too beefy for the mini, but I see you're managing with that SCART cable you built! (Nice job!)

Thank you I had to cut in the 8din plug quite a bit to make it fit the cable, so shrinking tube is definitely needed to make it look good afterwards

I was thinking about making a simple 2 way scart switch housed in a black brushed aluminum enclosure.... Use a 4 pole ON-ON switch for RGBS, and a 2 pole for audio. Have the audio routed to 2 RCAs, and the RGB fed through a 8MDIN cable (hard wired to ON-ON switch output). Since I only have two consoles out at a time, this would be fine with me! The biggest hurdle is that I don't have a mill to make the SCART socket cutouts in the aluminum enclosure!!!

Ah yes I was actually thinking about something similar today. I could use a 3 Pole ON-ON to switch between component and RGB to the XRGB-Mini using only one output on the Matrix (right now I use one for each type).
I should also mention that the Hama switch completely seperates all signals between the inputs, it even disconnects GND. I.e if you set the input to A you can't measure any continuity between pin 21 on input A and B. Of course input > output is fully connected.

If you have a small flat-shaped file you can make holes using drill and just take your time shaping the hole manually. But that will most likely take a long time. I did that when I made that ON/OFF button on my Matrix (it can't be switched off normally...). You can kinda see it in the lower left corner of my picture. That thing was brutal even though the button is quite small, but the front of the Matrix is 5mm thick aluminum. I drilled two holes next to each other and spent about 3 hours making it rectangular by hand

[BuckoA51]

Shameless plug (again) but I'm trying to build a list of SCART switches that work and the myriad of ones that don't here http://www.videogameperfection.com/av-g ... h-roundup/ I've got switches daisy chained in my setup (I use a powered switch with signal boosting as the central hub) and can't see any quality loss whatsoever and yes I've looked carefully.

[Konsolkongen]

Forgot about your site. It's the Hama SCART Switchbox 4/1 Model 42957 I'm talking about. Glad to see you are satisfied with it as well

[Hamburglar]

Is there any picture quality difference if using the SNES or Genesis with the XRGB Mini, and using pure/raw sync? Or is the benefit only there if you are using some other setup?

Is there any moderately cheap way (that also looks good) to get Dreamcast over VGA working on this thing? I still have the VGA adapter for my Dreamcast and would hate to get rid of it because there's no VGA on the XRGB Mini. What are you guys using?

[Zapf]

Is there any picture quality difference if using the SNES or Genesis with the XRGB Mini, and using pure/raw sync? Or is the benefit only there if you are using some other setup?

Is there any moderately cheap way (that also looks good) to get Dreamcast over VGA working on this thing? I still have the VGA adapter for my Dreamcast and would hate to get rid of it because there's no VGA on the XRGB Mini. What are you guys using?

Can't most games be output in 15khz rgb on the dreamcast (and the others can be forced to with a bootdisk?)

[Konsolkongen]

Yes all games on the Dreamcast can be played in 15kHz (240p or 480i), but 480i isn't very nice compared to 480p

I use my Gefen VGA to DVI Scaler plus, for the Dreamcast only these days. I have it connected through the Mini and it works just fine, and looks awesome. It might be a little expensive though, but I know people here who was lucky enough to find their Gefens very cheap. I don't think you can find a better VGA to DVI (HDMI) solution for the Dreamcast anywhere else. Only problem is that it doesn't have any audio passthrough as the output is DVI, which means you would have to connect your Dreamcast's sound to your TV or amplifier directly.

As for the different sync types, I have never been able to tell them apart. Only real difference, in my experience, is that composite video can give dropouts whereas c.sync is rock solid.

EDIT: You can also get a VGA to HDMI Scaler from Gefen which does have audio passthough. Last time I checked it was a bit more expensive than the DVI-type, but now it's about the same.

VGA to DVI: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=gef ... &_from=R40
VGA to HDMI: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... Categories

Still they are pretty expensive, but I hope this helps