TV RGB mod thread

[Pikmin]

The service manual for the TV I was asking about (Sony KVBM142M10) can be found here

https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-bm142m ... nload.html

Please let me know if I need to take some photos, I'd love to be able to mod it

Thank you

[Vincent7]

Hi guys i got JVC AV 2136EE, it has only composite output i wanna upgrade it to RGB.
TV chassis - CG (SCG-1266A), Video - NN5198K, Micom - MN1873287JK1. Maybe someone did it with that chassis or NN5198K? Any help?

[lazyelm]

Hi Folks - Hoping someone can point me in the right direction with some interference I am getting on 2 separate very different sets.

I have a JVC 32d502 and a toshiba cx-32f60 - I rgb modded both successfully - standard mux for the jvc and i had to put an inline rgb amp for the toshiba (THS7316) - both work brilliantly, tubes are super bright - convergence is great and I want to wrap these up, clean em up and close em out.

BUT, i am running into similar looking horizontal interference patters on the left and right sides of both - they look a little different but seem similar. I thought it was related to my mods, i swapped out the wiring for shielded cables, i grounded the shielding etc... no luck. I then plugged in a genesis over composite on both and Im seeing the same intereference. I then removed all the mod wiring to see if it was still related to that and im still seeing the intereference. So im now back to stock (minus the termination resistors i removed on the chasis) - and Im still getting this pattern. I didnt notice it before I started the mod - but frankly i didnt really use the tv's before hand so it could of been there. But it seems odd that they both have very similar faint interference. I've also tried a different power outlet just in case.

It is only noticable on grey really - on the JVC is noticable on darker colors as well im posting a couple pictures of the intereference below.. Toshiba first then the JVC - These are pictures after all the rgb mod wiring has been removed and im running over composite. I drew some arrows to point it out, its almost perfectly mirrored on either side of the screens.

I can also post pictures of the mods if that will help - but its all happening still after I have removed them




Edit: Sorry i cant figure out how to get the images to show inline - here are the links
https://pasteboard.co/FVTw1ig0o0Uw.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/JQgvKCh65XRn.jpg

[Ryeno]

Hi Folks - Hoping someone can point me in the right direction with some interference I am getting on 2 separate very different sets.

I have a JVC 32d502 and a toshiba cx-32f60 - I rgb modded both successfully - standard mux for the jvc and i had to put an inline rgb amp for the toshiba (THS7316) - both work brilliantly, tubes are super bright - convergence is great and I want to wrap these up, clean em up and close em out.

BUT, i am running into similar looking horizontal interference patters on the left and right sides of both - they look a little different but seem similar. I thought it was related to my mods, i swapped out the wiring for shielded cables, i grounded the shielding etc... no luck. I then plugged in a genesis over composite on both and Im seeing the same intereference. I then removed all the mod wiring to see if it was still related to that and im still seeing the intereference. So im now back to stock (minus the termination resistors i removed on the chasis) - and Im still getting this pattern. I didnt notice it before I started the mod - but frankly i didnt really use the tv's before hand so it could of been there. But it seems odd that they both have very similar faint interference. I've also tried a different power outlet just in case.

It is only noticable on grey really - on the JVC is noticable on darker colors as well im posting a couple pictures of the intereference below.. Toshiba first then the JVC - These are pictures after all the rgb mod wiring has been removed and im running over composite. I drew some arrows to point it out, its almost perfectly mirrored on either side of the screens.

I can also post pictures of the mods if that will help - but its all happening still after I have removed them




Edit: Sorry i cant figure out how to get the images to show inline - here are the links
https://pasteboard.co/FVTw1ig0o0Uw.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/JQgvKCh65XRn.jpg

Try a different console

[lazyelm]

Hi Folks - Hoping someone can point me in the right direction with some interference I am getting on 2 separate very different sets.

I have a JVC 32d502 and a toshiba cx-32f60 - I rgb modded both successfully - standard mux for the jvc and i had to put an inline rgb amp for the toshiba (THS7316) - both work brilliantly, tubes are super bright - convergence is great and I want to wrap these up, clean em up and close em out.

BUT, i am running into similar looking horizontal interference patters on the left and right sides of both - they look a little different but seem similar. I thought it was related to my mods, i swapped out the wiring for shielded cables, i grounded the shielding etc... no luck. I then plugged in a genesis over composite on both and Im seeing the same intereference. I then removed all the mod wiring to see if it was still related to that and im still seeing the intereference. So im now back to stock (minus the termination resistors i removed on the chasis) - and Im still getting this pattern. I didnt notice it before I started the mod - but frankly i didnt really use the tv's before hand so it could of been there. But it seems odd that they both have very similar faint interference. I've also tried a different power outlet just in case.

It is only noticable on grey really - on the JVC is noticable on darker colors as well im posting a couple pictures of the intereference below.. Toshiba first then the JVC - These are pictures after all the rgb mod wiring has been removed and im running over composite. I drew some arrows to point it out, its almost perfectly mirrored on either side of the screens.

I can also post pictures of the mods if that will help - but its all happening still after I have removed them




Edit: Sorry i cant figure out how to get the images to show inline - here are the links
https://pasteboard.co/FVTw1ig0o0Uw.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/JQgvKCh65XRn.jpg

Try a different console

For sure! I tried that. SNES, raspberry pi, mister, genesis. All exactly the same. Also tried 3 scart cables, different composite cables

[demonpoodle]

So what actually happens if you mess up the in line resistor values?

i ask because i have a mux mod TV that works, but I'm getting crushed blacks on the RGB signal as if i'm sending the RGB signal to a limited dynamic range display, and i'm wondering if this is caused by the resistor values.

i didnt mod the set myself so i'll have to take it apart myself to check, if this is a potential cause.

[vol.2]

So what actually happens if you mess up the in line resistor values?

i ask because i have a mux mod TV that works, but I'm getting crushed blacks on the RGB signal as if i'm sending the RGB signal to a limited dynamic range display, and i'm wondering if this is caused by the resistor values.

i didnt mod the set myself so i'll have to take it apart myself to check, if this is a potential cause.

I would think that it would simply raise or lower the whole signal, but I suppose if the resistor values were much to high, you would lose some information in the darkest regions that doesn't get recovered by increasing the G2.

To be sure, you would want to use software to check the white balance of the display and determine whether or not what you are seeing could be adjusted out through calibration.

I typically use HCFR and an i1Display Pro. My signal path is usually a PC running HCFR on external "DVD mode" and a softmodded Wii running 240p test suite. You can just do a full white balance and see if your blacks are there or not.

[panayu]

I got jailbar on my crt it's also present in composite input but more pronounce on my RGB modded input.

I've read that mostly it's cause by bad cap. already change 4.7 uf 250v one on the neckboard but didn't fix the problem. some said that the b+ filter cap could cause this too. but due to my limited electronic knowledge I can't identify that cap. below is the schematic of the model I'm working on if anyone kindly take a look and identify that cap and maybe other cap that mostly cause this problem and need to be changed that will be very helpful to me. Thank you so much.

https://archive.org/details/manual_KVHF ... 9/mode/1up

[vol.2]

I got jailbar on my crt it's also present in composite input but more pronounce on my RGB modded input.

I've read that mostly it's cause by bad cap. already change 4.7 uf 250v one on the neckboard but didn't fix the problem. some said that the b+ filter cap could cause this too. but due to my limited electronic knowledge I can't identify that cap. below is the schematic of the model I'm working on if anyone kindly take a look and identify that cap and maybe other cap that mostly cause this problem and need to be changed that will be very helpful to me. Thank you so much.

https://archive.org/details/manual_KVHF ... 9/mode/1up

I have circled the B+ and the filter caps immediately surrounding it. It is on page 50 of the SM. It shows the B+ as the 135V rail, but there is also a 200V rail that I think will probably feel the cathodes and that would also be important. The 135 and 200V are derived from the same tap on the transformer, so they share the filter caps anyway, but there may be other caps that connect to both lines further down that you might need to check. I didn't read the whole thing.

Start with that area, and if it doesn't help, then you probably need to look at the deflection area next, as that can also be a source of ringing in the image if one of those goes bad.

If you want to make another post about this, please make a NEW post, and included this information in that post. This thread is for people looking for help on their RGB mods and not for troubleshooting jailbars. Even though they are worse in RGB, that doesn't mean that the mod is the source. It's most likely that the RGB is just clearer/stronger signal and that exacerbates the bars.

I also circled the filter cap on the 15V supply, and you can probably just ignore that. I did it by mistake.

[ba114]

Hi all,

just acquired myself a philips 29" philips-29pt3323. It has the L01.01A (australianmodel) chassis. The set features component input, however the european model has native SCART RGB
I have found the service manual for both the australian model and the european model and would like to perform an RGB scart mod to this set.

The Australian service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

The europen service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

From what i can see, the european model shows differences in diagram A5 at the RGB/YUV lines. The european model shows components 4205, 4206, 4207 are shown as 0ohm resistors and components 2215, 2213 and 2214 are shown as 22N capacitors. The australian model has these items with asterixes which i assume mean not present.

Im no expert at this so hoping you legends could help me figure out what steps i need to take to effectively "convert" the australian model to the european RGB Scart model.

Thanks

[sgs9035029988]

Good afternoon, first time posting here. A couple of weeks ago, I find a dirt cheap 9" crt monitor. Inputs are Composite and svideo. I'm greatly interested on doing a RGB mod for this unit but I'm unable to find mich information about it. I already tried to inject RGB input at the phillis ic to pin 22 to 24 and blinking pin seems to be pin 26, I only get a black screen whenever 5v is applied.

Important details here
First IC
DIP 42
CT09-1 87CP38NG-6D43 JAPAN 0716EQI D1343BAA (Unable to identify by myself, no datasheet found so far)

[Philips TDA8842] DIP56 (https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet- ... A8842.html)

Tube: Chunghwa A22AKQ13X05 CPJ250AKAR1S-TC NO: G6483006322

[gabrielgamer99]

Hello

I have a sears tv 20 inch by JVC with a TA1242N Jungle chip

My values for the osd are 4.7k and the grounding ones that got removed are 1.5k

I built my resistances for 0.5v p-p but it was dim (lacking contrast I would say)

Due to how this jungle works I can't adjust the brightness or contrast.

Somebody on this site had a post about using 1vp-p instead and had 180 termination instead of 75
and used 510.

Problem is that tv in that post has different values and the math wasn't really shown or explained

Could somebody provide me values I should try to get 1v p-p?

[abispac2]

RGB mod success with an off-brand TV
Internally, it's the same TV as the one used by The 8-Bit Guy on YouTube. The mod was very easy to do, but I feel like the colors are a bit dark. Does anyone know why that might be? Turning the brightness all the way up doesn’t fix the issue. The image looks good overall—just not as vibrant or bright as I expected.
Thanks for any advice!

Spoiler

[karimpolska]

Hi Folks.

Just got a Brand new Sharp 25N42-E3 and sadly no Scart. I have done some homework and found out that it uses a very obscure proprietary jungle IC IX0969CEN1 happily enough, from my preliminary searches it appears that this is a very similar clone of the Toshiba TA8759BN chip.

I have never done any RGB mods before and would like to check with experienced retro geeks to make sure that I'll be doing it the best way possible.
I don't wanna do anything that would destroy this tech heritage . Please help with suggestions, which resistors, caps, where exactly...

Thank you in advance

[KPackratt2k]

Hello

I have a sears tv 20 inch by JVC with a TA1242N Jungle chip

My values for the osd are 4.7k and the grounding ones that got removed are 1.5k

I built my resistances for 0.5v p-p but it was dim (lacking contrast I would say)

Due to how this jungle works I can't adjust the brightness or contrast.

Somebody on this site had a post about using 1vp-p instead and had 180 termination instead of 75
and used 510.

Problem is that tv in that post has different values and the math wasn't really shown or explained

Could somebody provide me values I should try to get 1v p-p?

Try using 1.2k ohm inline resistors and 180 ohm termination resistors.

RGB mod success with an off-brand TV
Internally, it's the same TV as the one used by The 8-Bit Guy on YouTube. The mod was very easy to do, but I feel like the colors are a bit dark. Does anyone know why that might be? Turning the brightness all the way up doesn’t fix the issue. The image looks good overall—just not as vibrant or bright as I expected.
Thanks for any advice!

The Toshiba jungle chips used in these Samsung built TVs expect a 1Vp-p RGB input. You can either adjust the RGB drive/cutoff settings in the service menu (and adjust the Composite sub-brightness setting so it matches the RGB input - if you also plan on using Composite video) or use higher termination resistors in the 180-220 ohm range.

[Delphius]

Hello and thanks in advance for any help and information provided. I am working on an Emerson HKTV13 which is a 13" Hello Kitty style TV for a friend and found that it might be a good candidate for an RGB mod. The picture using composite is already better than expected and I am pretty impressed with the tube. I could not find any information online for an RGB mod on this TV so I thought it would be wise to inquire here for some guidance. I am experienced in doing mods and electrical work, but I also don't want to make any mistakes that could compromise this TV.

The service manual can be found at this link - https://elektrotanya.com/emerson_hktv13 ... nload.html. There is a separate OSD and jungle chip so I think that a mux mod is possible. Based from the schematic it seems that a good SCART injection point would be at I705, but I would appreciate any insight on how to go about this. According to information from Sunthar's documentation I should remove the pull-down resistors on the output of the OSD chip, but I am unsure about the 4.7k pull-up resistors just after this in the HKTV13 circuit. It seems these will be necessary to keep for biasing, but I am not sure if the mux circuit will need to be adjusted accordingly.

Another positive aspect of this TV is that it already has a cutout available for a SCART connector that is currently being used for the composite. The PCB does not have the correct footprints for anything other than composite, but I think it will be possible to fit a connector and mount it directly to the plastic covering.

Thanks again, this could be a nice little TV for this mod.

I have been diving into this project and have made a lot of progress, but there are still some things I would like to understand before buttoning it up. I have SCART RGB injecting into the jungle chip and overall it looks pretty good, but the passive mux with OSD is not going as planned. This TV has some curve balls I wasn't really expecting that maybe someone could help provide some insight on.

One of the main differences with this circuit is that there are two OSD chips, one is for the system menu control and the other is a more graphical OSD used for the certain Hello Kitty overlays. These two OSD chips are controlled by an AN5862K video switch which also seems to have a buffer built in. Here is a screenshot of the injection points I am using with the AN5862K in circuit.



The OSD chip shown is the secondary OSD with the Hello Kitty graphics. The OSD I am more concerned with is input A on the AN5862K and connects via P701. The output of the AN5862K connects to P502 which then connects to the jungle chip OSD inputs through a 0.1uf coupling capacitor. Aside from the high resistance pull downs on OSD outputs there doesn't seem to be any termination on any of the input or output of the AN5862K lines. I was able to find a very basic datasheet of the AN5862K but it is eluding me exactly how this circuit is buffering.



With a bit of digging around I figured out that the jungle chip is an LA76814, here is a screen shot of how it is used in this circuit

and here is a link to the datasheet https://datasheet4u.com/pdf-down/L/A/7/ ... ectric.pdf

Originally my thought was to inject RGB with the primary OSD and connect into the P701 connector. However I was not able to get this to behave properly no matter what I have tried to do. First of all, any termination on the input results in the entire screen going black by just having the SCART connector in circuit. The closest I am able to get is when the SCART RGB has no termination and with coupling capacitors. When connected this way everything is dimmed and pretty much scrambled looking as if the two signals are scrambling each other. I believe this is happening because of the AN5862K and the buffering that is happening. When I measure the circuit going in and out of the AN5862K there seems to be some biasing going on because it always measures around 1.1v (or I am confused about something).

So I instead moved my attention to injecting on the output of the AN5862K and into the P502 which is connected just before the jungle chip. This injection seems to work with and without coupling capacitors from the SCART, but this circuit also measures what seems to be a 1.1v bias. Overall the image looks good, but again this only works if there is no 75ohm termination on the SCART connector. The voltages do however drop to near 800mv ptp so somewhere there might be some internal termination happening. The main issue with this injection point is the OSD menus are not muxing correctly. When there is any signal passing through the SCART the OSD is bright white and totally overblown.

Of course I need to balance out the injected voltage, but not having the muxing of the OSD is passable to me. Turning off my SNES console makes everything go back to normal (even with blanking engaged). But I am still concerned that there is something I am not understanding about this circuit. Before I make any permanent changes to the shell of this TV I would like to make sure I am not in risk of damaging something with long term use, or better yet figure out how to properly mux the OSD and RGB injection. I have tried every combination that I can think of like adding higher resistance termination and even adding 1N4148 diodes to the RGB injection but nothing seems to work as well as injecting with a single series resistor and coupling capacitors.

Here is a copy of the link to the HKTV13 service manual for the full schematic https://elektrotanya.com/emerson_hktv13 ... nload.html.


If anyone has some insight on what is going on and what I should try next, I would greatly appreciate it.

[zzz_unk]

I want to RGB mod my KV-21SE80A and I need help to do it idk

hi dudes, ok so i just got a sony trinitron in fb marketplace for like 20 buck? (i think its a good price) and it works just fine but what annoys me about it is that it only has composite input and composite kind of sucks for crt gaming because the image is a mess of color blend and dot crawl and i dont like it. so i discovered that you could mod crts so it could receive RGB input, i found a post abt my trinitron model

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... ded_its_a/

I couldnt find any other relevant info about my trinitron model because i think that maybe my model is not that popular idk

what knowledge do i need to do this mod?

is it dangerous? (like if you mess up something)

is my crt model compatible with RGB mod? (afaik yes)

has someone successfully modded this exact trinitron model or other similar?

ok thats all i hope i receive your help

[ba114]

Hi all,

just acquired myself a philips 29" philips-29pt3323. It has the L01.01A (australianmodel) chassis. The set features component input, however the european model has native SCART RGB
I have found the service manual for both the australian model and the european model and would like to perform an RGB scart mod to this set.

The Australian service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

The europen service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

From what i can see, the european model shows differences in diagram A5 at the RGB/YUV lines. The european model shows components 4205, 4206, 4207 are shown as 0ohm resistors and components 2215, 2213 and 2214 are shown as 22N capacitors. The australian model has these items with asterixes which i assume mean not present.

Im no expert at this so hoping you legends could help me figure out what steps i need to take to effectively "convert" the australian model to the european RGB Scart model.

Thanks

anyone?

[sam11_]

Anyone ever successfully salvaged a set with a half-broken anode clip? Managed to snap off one side of the clip on this Sharp when discharging it somehow. Unfortunately the only way to get at the board is to pull it completely out of the chassis, so...

EDIT: Little update; got bold and reassembled it anyway; between the one half of the clip and the suction cup, it feels fairly secure. Still functional, though unsure of the long term safety of that. I played with pots on the RGB lines and have them at a happy place, but the right side ripple that fades in and out on certain colors persists.

I believe I've isolated it to the blanking line coming from the 5v regulator; it's there even when only that's connected. I tried running from the D-VCC pin 18 that the manual says is supposed to have 4.7v, and the ripple was no longer noticeable, however it wasn't enough to blank; also turns out the actual voltage measured was 3.3. Found a different 5v regulator on the PIP board and tried it, and it ALSO couldn't blank, but it DID cause the ripple anyway! Measured it and turned out it was only outputting 4.7v, so it seems right at 5 is the sweet spot... and also seems like I just have inordinately noisy regulators.

Anyone ever tried making some sort of LC filter for the 5v output (or had a need to)? Or should I just tie it high to the pin 46 9v VCC and hope A) it's better filtered and B) it doesn't fry? That's about the only thing left that could go wrong with this little project!

EDIT 2: Tried to filter the 5v regulator output with a little circuit of 10, 1, an 0.1 uf decoupling caps. No change. Did find out that I was wrong about the blanking voltage; mirrored the stock 6.8/3.3 k divider on the regulator output in addition to the filtering, taking it down to 1.7v, and it still blanked fine, but no change to that stubborn ripple. Must have shorted it somehow when I had it hooked up to the D-VCC previously?

How did you manage to fix the broken anode clip? I have a Panasonic TX-29FG50A which i managed to accidentally break the clip on. I tried soldering it, but at the time, the tip of my soldering iron was quite worn out so I think I might have further damaged the clip. The connection was also quite weak as well as when I reinstalled the clip, it managed to bend awkwardly which resulted in it no longer turning on. I think I might need to find another clip for my set. I'm also thinking that I might be able to get another clip manufactured somewhere, or have someone professionally fix my clip but i have no idea how I would go about doing this or who would be qualified for such a specific job.

[Delphius]

Hi all,

just acquired myself a philips 29" philips-29pt3323. It has the L01.01A (australianmodel) chassis. The set features component input, however the european model has native SCART RGB
I have found the service manual for both the australian model and the european model and would like to perform an RGB scart mod to this set.

The Australian service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

The europen service manual is here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16010 ... 01-1a.html

From what i can see, the european model shows differences in diagram A5 at the RGB/YUV lines. The european model shows components 4205, 4206, 4207 are shown as 0ohm resistors and components 2215, 2213 and 2214 are shown as 22N capacitors. The australian model has these items with asterixes which i assume mean not present.

Im no expert at this so hoping you legends could help me figure out what steps i need to take to effectively "convert" the australian model to the european RGB Scart model.

Thanks

anyone?

I think in this case the complication is not so much in the injection points but instead the switching logic. It might almost be just as easy to use the component inputs on the back of the TV and figuring out the logic to switch from component decoded to RGB. It is probably a bit more complicated than that, but I think this is probably the core of the complication with adding RGB with this set. It might be possible to inject where you are talking about on the A5 diagram, but it might be at the expense of disabling the component input as well. The TDA94xx seems to take RGB input voltages up to 2v so you would probably need to have proper 75 ohm termination at the injection point of your RGB. This will compromise the component signal already going there so it is probably best to remove it from circuit. In other words you would remove R2213 2214 and 2215 from the circuit entirely, inject your RGB after that with a 75 ohm termination resistor. This would probably disable all of your OSD on the RGB line as well. I am no expert with any of this but at a quick glance of the schematic this is what I would assume.

Personally if you have component input already then getting a RGB -> component transcoder is probably your best option in balancing time and effort.

[Delphius]

I want to RGB mod my KV-21SE80A and I need help to do it idk

hi dudes, ok so i just got a sony trinitron in fb marketplace for like 20 buck? (i think its a good price) and it works just fine but what annoys me about it is that it only has composite input and composite kind of sucks for crt gaming because the image is a mess of color blend and dot crawl and i dont like it. so i discovered that you could mod crts so it could receive RGB input, i found a post abt my trinitron model

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... ded_its_a/

I couldnt find any other relevant info about my trinitron model because i think that maybe my model is not that popular idk

what knowledge do i need to do this mod?

is it dangerous? (like if you mess up something)

is my crt model compatible with RGB mod? (afaik yes)

has someone successfully modded this exact trinitron model or other similar?

ok thats all i hope i receive your help

Yes it appears that this set can be RGB modded. The service manual can be found here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/32755 ... =16#manual. All of the information you need for doing this mod can be found here https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... stor-value.

Yes it can be dangerous depending on your experience with electronics. In some cases it can be deadly if you mess around with the wrong parts of the CRT.

[zzz_unk]

I want to RGB mod my KV-21SE80A and I need help to do it idk

hi dudes, ok so i just got a sony trinitron in fb marketplace for like 20 buck? (i think its a good price) and it works just fine but what annoys me about it is that it only has composite input and composite kind of sucks for crt gaming because the image is a mess of color blend and dot crawl and i dont like it. so i discovered that you could mod crts so it could receive RGB input, i found a post abt my trinitron model

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... ded_its_a/

I couldnt find any other relevant info about my trinitron model because i think that maybe my model is not that popular idk

what knowledge do i need to do this mod?

is it dangerous? (like if you mess up something)

is my crt model compatible with RGB mod? (afaik yes)

has someone successfully modded this exact trinitron model or other similar?

ok thats all i hope i receive your help

Yes it appears that this set can be RGB modded. The service manual can be found here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/32755 ... =16#manual. All of the information you need for doing this mod can be found here https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... stor-value.

Yes it can be dangerous depending on your experience with electronics. In some cases it can be deadly if you mess around with the wrong parts of the CRT.

is RGB the best image quality i can get from a crt? can i mod it so it receives component input?

[KPackratt2k]

is RGB the best image quality i can get from a crt? can i mod it so it receives component input?

From what I remember, the KV-21SE80A uses the BA-4 chassis, which can be modified for S-Video, Component YPbPr, and RGB. Bear in mind that the TV is designed solely to run on 15KHz (240p/480i for NTSC or 288p/576i for PAL), so modifying it for advanced inputs won't make it work with 31KHz (480p/576p/720p/1080i/p) resolutions.

I believe this model is one of the few 20" models that utilize a digital comb filter chip, so the image will be shifted to the left unless you bypass it. This can be done by enabling the S-Video input in the service menu and using a switch to force the set into S-Video mode.

Here are a few guides I've found for adding each input type to your TV chassis:

S-Video:
viewtopic.php?p=1443425#p1443425
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69497

Component YPbPr:
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m40

RGB:
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m42
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... 20s42.html

[Odyssey113]

Anyone know off-hand who wrote this guide?

https://imgur.com/gallery/sony-kv-27s46 ... ic-hRUx5xT

They also had posted up a Follow up to this guide, where few things got changed, however the F/u guide appears to be deleted from Imgur now, and I was really hoping to just see if I can at least get an offline documentation of what was changed for my service records and just knowledge of the chassis and the approach.

[zzz_unk]

is RGB the best image quality i can get from a crt? can i mod it so it receives component input?

From what I remember, the KV-21SE80A uses the BA-4 chassis, which can be modified for S-Video, Component YPbPr, and RGB. Bear in mind that the TV is designed solely to run on 15KHz (240p/480i for NTSC or 288p/576i for PAL), so modifying it for advanced inputs won't make it work with 31KHz (480p/576p/720p/1080i/p) resolutions.

I believe this model is one of the few 20" models that utilize a digital comb filter chip, so the image will be shifted to the left unless you bypass it. This can be done by enabling the S-Video input in the service menu and using a switch to force the set into S-Video mode.

Here are a few guides I've found for adding each input type to your TV chassis:

S-Video:
viewtopic.php?p=1443425#p1443425
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69497

Component YPbPr:
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m40

RGB:
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m42
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... 20s42.html

thank you for the resources vro, and yeah i know my trinitron wont output 31kHz no matter the mod i do, but i wanted to know if RGB is like the sharpest my trinitron can display?, because it only has composite and composite sucks so bad because its so blurry but the OSD is SO sharp in comparation to the composite image itself,

so i took some pictures to show the differences idk (i am using retroarch on my pc and a cheap chinese hmdi2av because i coudnt find anything better)



that is how the screen show the OSD, in this case when it doesnt have any video input so it just shows the 'video' text
and its SO sharp i cant believe my trinitron has that such quality lmao



and here is how it displays an image when receiving input from composite, the image has some awful dot crawl and its not a clean signal, it sucks



other image from other source, you can see how awful the image is, like bro
i think you get what i mean

at first i thought that it was the hdmi2av messing the signal but no, it was the nature of composite itself which just looks bad.
i thought that maybe it was my trinitron that just was broke and that why it displayed which such bad quality and color blend, but no because the OSD confirms the real unused possible sharpness of my trinitron, im just wasting my crt atp.

[karimpolska]

Hi Folks.

Just got a Brand new Sharp 25N42-E3 and sadly no Scart. I have done some homework and found out that it uses a very obscure proprietary jungle IC IX0969CEN1 happily enough, from my preliminary searches it appears that this is a very similar clone of the Toshiba TA8759BN chip.

I have never done any RGB mods before and would like to check with experienced retro geeks to make sure that I'll be doing it the best way possible.
I don't wanna do anything that would destroy this tech heritage . Please help with suggestions, which resistors, caps, where exactly...

Thank you in advance

Anyone?

[vol.2]

Anyone?

If it is indeed based on the TA8759BN, then RGB in on pins 47,49,51, and the switching is supposed to be controlled by pin 53.

However, the design is pretty complicated and the datasheet for that jungle IC has a lot of advanced functionality, so I'm not 100% certain it would just work.

The voltage control for the blanking switch appears to have 4 levels if I read the datasheet correctly. Between 0-0.7V, you should have what they call "TV," within the range of "BLK enable;" I think BLK is just Blanking. Between 0.7-4V you should have "EXT," within the range of "BLK enable." Between 4-6V you should "TV" with the range of "BLK inhibit," and above 6V (up to a maximum of 53V) you should have EXT in the range of "BLK inhibit."

What I think is going on is that this IC has a teletext interface, and it needs the 4 states to overlay the teletext information, which is typically extracted from the vertical blanking period.

So, if I'm right about that, you can feed the blanking pin ~3VDC and it should turn on the RGB inputs all the time. You could also do anything above 6V, all the way up to 53V and it would also turn on RGB. The difference is whether or not it can also display teletext, but if non is present then either should in theory be fine. If I'm wrong about that, then you might require above 6V.

If it was me, I'd just give the standard OSD method a shot on those pins and try to insert the 3V on the blanking from somewhere inside the set. I think the sync info would just be put in the composite video hole on the back.

[karimpolska]

Anyone?

If it is indeed based on the TA8759BN, then RGB in on pins 47,49,51, and the switching is supposed to be controlled by pin 53.

However, the design is pretty complicated and the datasheet for that jungle IC has a lot of advanced functionality, so I'm not 100% certain it would just work.

The voltage control for the blanking switch appears to have 4 levels if I read the datasheet correctly. Between 0-0.7V, you should have what they call "TV," within the range of "BLK enable;" I think BLK is just Blanking. Between 0.7-4V you should have "EXT," within the range of "BLK enable." Between 4-6V you should "TV" with the range of "BLK inhibit," and above 6V (up to a maximum of 53V) you should have EXT in the range of "BLK inhibit."

What I think is going on is that this IC has a teletext interface, and it needs the 4 states to overlay the teletext information, which is typically extracted from the vertical blanking period.

So, if I'm right about that, you can feed the blanking pin ~3VDC and it should turn on the RGB inputs all the time. You could also do anything above 6V, all the way up to 53V and it would also turn on RGB. The difference is whether or not it can also display teletext, but if non is present then either should in theory be fine. If I'm wrong about that, then you might require above 6V.

If it was me, I'd just give the standard OSD method a shot on those pins and try to insert the 3V on the blanking from somewhere inside the set. I think the sync info would just be put in the composite video hole on the back.

Thank you very much. Helpful info indeed!

What about caps, resistors...where to put them and where exactly to inject RGB? is it directly to the IC?

I'll give it a try as soon as gather enough info

[vol.2]

What about caps, resistors...where to put them and where exactly to inject RGB? is it directly to the IC?

Assume that it is currently setup to display the OSD through the RGB lines and follow advice about doing the OSD injection mod earlier in this thread. You would have to do a mux mod to keep the OSD.

[reminiz]

In fact, I'd love some advice for modding a Samsung HiTron TV-488. I'm not having any luck finding the service manual, but it uses this Philips IC (TDA8841) - https://my.mixtape.moe/hiflqk.pdf.

Hi Buttersoft, I’m also in Australia. I have acquired a TV-348 (14” Samsung) which composite in/out on the back.

It also uses the same Philips jungle IC. 4481. Does this mean my set will also have RGB disabled in the EEPROM?
What’s the easiest way to test this?

It seems like the component plugs are soldered into a SCART pin-out on the PCB. If RGB is active, would this mean a simple desolder and swap in a SCART plug?

Any insight would be great