TV RGB mod thread

[Anonygoose]

Hey guys

Is this a simple direct injection mod? Isolate the pins and directly inject RGB? Also which pin is blanking here?

Panasonic TC-29gf30r

https://imgur.com/gallery/Gg5pytf

The Toshiba TA8880xx series jungle ICs are controlled by an I^2C bus from an EEPROM. Further, the video signal input levels are all over the place (0.4V pkpk for RGB) so I think it's a no-go.

Not going to say it's impossible, but it's extremely complicated and out of scope for this thread. If you decide to pursue it on your own, make a new thread for your project.

Damn

Not experienced enough to figure this one out unfortunately. Thanks for the response

[reminiz]

Has anyone had expereince RGB Modding the KV-14MF1? It appears to have the CXA2131CS JIC, similar to the KV-13FM13 which has been previously discussed on here.

Does anyone have a guide to RGB mod with a SCART output? I've seen also VGA added to this model, but just not a detailed guide.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[lazyelm]

Hi I modded a KV-27s22 - I have everything done successfully but I am experiencing 2 issues I am hoping someone might have some insight to

-I am getting a circle interference line - its documented here https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... rved_jail/as a known issue. Ive posted a photo of it as well. The link states its related to b+ voltage - I replaced the 2 caps that feed the b+ line but i havent seen any improvement. Its also not related to unshielded wire interference from what I have tested..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vu6eXTtMsMw3nUUX7

this is the diagram and specifics I followed https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... ce-manuals

Second issue is that since the mod is done the remote acts really wierd. I can power the tv on every time with the remote but once its on, it take a few minutes for the tv to properly recognize remote commands. Even then its like 1 in 5 or 1 in 10... then it will work properly for a few seconds. THe buttons on the tv work fine and they arent stuck or anything.

Anyways - just some wierd behavior im hoping someone has some insight to. If i cant resolve I might just give this TV away and move on to the next project.

[vol.2]

-I am getting a circle interference line

I know this probably sounds obvious, but just to check 100%. Do you see this circular line when the TV is on any other input besides you mod?

If the line persists across inputs, then there's a chance that it's burn-in and not solvable.

[Kvazikvark]

I’ll continue posting updates on the TV modification progress in this thread now.

[lazyelm]

-I am getting a circle interference line

I know this probably sounds obvious, but just to check 100%. Do you see this circular line when the TV is on any other input besides you mod?

If the line persists across inputs, then there's a chance that it's burn-in and not solvable.

Im positive its not burnin - Its not there on the composite input. It only shows up for the RGB mod. It seems like it might be be related to the luma signal.

[vol.2]

Im positive its not burnin - Its not there on the composite input. It only shows up for the RGB mod. It seems like it might be be related to the luma signal.

Ok. Sounds good.

I read the reddit post you supplied, and that person was unable to fix the problem. He said it got somewhat better by increasing the value of the B+ caps, but he doesn't mention which or how much.

So if we are to believe him, then the key is to filter out the B+ better. There's probably some filter combo you can use to clean things up, but you'd probably have to measure the noise in the B+ line with a high voltage probe and a scope to see where it lives, and then try to design a filter that targets the noise. Probably not impossible, but not super easy. That's if the reddit post guy is correct, but he seems basically competent to me.

[Syntax]

Make sure it's not your unshielded mod wires running past hv lines.
To think it's b+ when everything else is fine is kinda stupid.

[vol.2]

To think it's b+ when everything else is fine is kinda stupid.

Reading the original reddit post and ones like it, they were able to notice the circular pattern present in the other inputs, but it was much less pronounced. The thought is that the RGB mod is just making it pop out more, probably because the input components result in a slightly higher voltage level if I had to guess.

[Syntax]

Or probably because they can't mod for shit and have their thin unshielded wires running past hv.

Show me your mod work, instead of other people's screens.

Could of also used a dirty source for your blanking voltage, instead of the jungles input vcc looped back to blanking.

[lazyelm]

Or probably because they can't mod for shit and have their thin unshielded wires running past hv.

Show me your mod work, instead of other people's screens.

Could of also used a dirty source for your blanking voltage, instead of the jungles input vcc looped back to blanking.

A friend of mine wanted the TV - didnt care about the ring since it was barely noticable - so I've donated it - I appreciate the help though. I was careful to keep the wires away from the HV as best possible. This is the wire I used - with an IDC connector. Do you think this is decent or should i switch to something else? I use this wire specifically because I want to use and IDC for quick disconnect of the scart adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS9HWV81?re ... tle_2&th=1

[vol.2]

This is the wire I used - with an IDC connector. Do you think this is decent or should i switch to something else? I use this wire specifically because I want to use and IDC for quick disconnect of the scart adapter

It's unshielded, so it's exactly the kind of wire that would be a problem if you were near any signals. On the PCB, they design things so that sensitive signals are isolation by large ground traces so it's not an issue, but just putting video signal wires in the chassis can be.

[Syntax]

ribbon cable is pretty average, if used at minimum every second wire should be a ground to isolate signals from each other.

You issue is not cross talk between your input signals from what I can see.

Composite sub carrier will cross talk to RGB in the form of cross hatching.

Ac power interference will look like diagonal lines on screen.

RGB can cross talk to audio lines, will hum on white screens.

HV DC crosstalk from a single point will look like your ringing. Multi point will have ringing intersecting, like 2 stones thrown in a pond at the same time.

[digitron]

Looking for confirmation here, on my Sony KV-27S42 RGB modded CRT w/ sync on luma (separate switch), am I correct in that I need to add a 470ohm resistor to the luma sync line if connecting an Extron 201rxi with ADSP enabled? Think I never had to worry about this in the past because my console(s) were connected directly to the CRT which have the 470ohm resistor on sync already.

Extron 201rxi connectivity = ADSP Enabled > RGBS (4 bnc output) = outputs TTL sync?

From the spec sheet on the Extron 201 manual;



UPDATE - Yes, adding the 470ohm resistor on your luma sync line on your RGB CRT works perfectly with the Extron . However, this will break the sync for your RGB consoles, so maybe a smarter approach is adding the 470ohm resistor on the output cable of your Extron which connects to your RGB CRT. Since I'm moving all my consoles to RGB VGA DSUB outputs, I plan on always having the Extron connected anyways.

[Pikmin]

Hello everyone,
I have a Sony KV-BM142M10 BX1S chassis

Is there a way to mod it for S-Video or Component or RGB?

From what I've read so far on this thread RGB might be disabled in software.

Thanks for your help

[lazyelm]

ribbon cable is pretty average, if used at minimum every second wire should be a ground to isolate signals from each other.

You issue is not cross talk between your input signals from what I can see.

Composite sub carrier will cross talk to RGB in the form of cross hatching.

Ac power interference will look like diagonal lines on screen.

RGB can cross talk to audio lines, will hum on white screens.

HV DC crosstalk from a single point will look like your ringing. Multi point will have ringing intersecting, like 2 stones thrown in a pond at the same time.

Ok that’s really useful info. Is there a generally recommended wire to use for this? Ideally with some kind of quick connect that’s recommended as well for easy disassembly / servicing.

I’ve definitely noticed the ringing on white screens

[lazyelm]

I think i've got interference going on. I've completed a mod for my CT-27SF12T. I'm getting interference I think thats causing this pink/yellow alternating corner color - Its primarily noticeable on gray screens - when I go to the pure R G B test screens i see no problems at all. I've tried on my vga input and scart - > both sharing the same RGB modded circuit I added and i get this using 3 different consoles. But, same consoles on SVID or composite I do not see this. I dont think its a purity issue. Based on my testing I think its got to be related to the RGB mod I did. Any thoughts on whats causing this.

I did see in my previous comment that these ribbon cables are just meh and i should probably be using something different. I've not had a problem like this before. Before I take it out and start over with shielded cables, hoping someone can point me in the right direction?

Heres the issue:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM ... pYX2puZlRn

and more pictures including the mod https://photos.app.goo.gl/ASSzxJbQg78VfLJU9

[Syntax]

Does the degaussing work or is it dysfunctional and causing a magnetic impurity?

Does the impurity color alter if you rotate the set while it is on?

[lazyelm]

Does the degaussing work or is it dysfunctional and causing a magnetic impurity?

Does the impurity color alter if you rotate the set while it is on?

No degausing does nothing and rotating the set does not alter the color pattern. Also - any other input does not have this pattern - so logically it seems that its related to the mod, not the purity or the yoke ( i think)

[Syntax]

You said you have a few systems. Check if there is a difference using composite video for sync vs Csync.

[lazyelm]

You said you have a few systems. Check if there is a difference using composite video for sync vs Csync.

Genesis: RGB SCART-> Issue
Genesis: Composite-> No issue
Mister FPGA -> SCART -> Issue
Mister FPGA -> VGA -> Issue
Mister FPGA -> SVideo - No issue
Mister FPGA -> Composite -> No issue

[lazyelm]

You said you have a few systems. Check if there is a difference using composite video for sync vs Csync.

Genesis: RGB SCART-> Issue
Genesis: Composite-> No issue
Mister FPGA -> SCART -> Issue
Mister FPGA -> VGA -> Issue
Mister FPGA -> SVideo - No issue
Mister FPGA -> Composite -> No issue

Problem solved - the interference was cause by the sync wiring. I had H and V sync connected together through 1k resistors to combine them on the VGA input - which feeds into the scart csync pin. On both VGA and scart (even when VGA cable not plugged in) i was getting that interference. I changed the mister to output csync, and just wired one wire from the vga header to the csync pin on scart with no resistor - problem solved on both VGA input and scart input now.

[dirsors]

I've successfully made RGB mod for my Philips TV. It works flawlessly. Then, I made an RGB+Sync cable and connected to my Nvidia Geforce VGA out, but the picture won't display correctly because I need to set the NTSC refresh rating times (15kHz stuff).
Do you know how can I do that? I need a program like VGATV or WinVGATV (https://mirrors.arcadecontrols.com/VGA ... river.html) but that program is designed for Win9x, and not NVIDA Geforce and Windows 11.
Any help would be appreciated

[lazyelm]

I've successfully made RGB mod for my Philips TV. It works flawlessly. Then, I made an RGB+Sync cable and connected to my Nvidia Geforce VGA out, but the picture won't display correctly because I need to set the NTSC refresh rating times (15kHz stuff).
Do you know how can I do that? I need a program like VGATV or WinVGATV (https://mirrors.arcadecontrols.com/VGA ... river.html) but that program is designed for Win9x, and not NVIDA Geforce and Windows 11.
Any help would be appreciated

https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thre ... tility-CRU

this is what you want for your nvidia card with vga out

[vol.2]

I've successfully made RGB mod for my Philips TV. It works flawlessly. Then, I made an RGB+Sync cable and connected to my Nvidia Geforce VGA out, but the picture won't display correctly because I need to set the NTSC refresh rating times (15kHz stuff).
Do you know how can I do that? I need a program like VGATV or WinVGATV (https://mirrors.arcadecontrols.com/VGA ... river.html) but that program is designed for Win9x, and not NVIDA Geforce and Windows 11.
Any help would be appreciated

https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thre ... tility-CRU

this is what you want for your nvidia card with vga out

It can be a fairly complicated process, and it's not on-topic for this thread. If you want help with that, please make a new thread so we can keep this one focused on the RGB mods.

[Delphius]

Hello and thanks in advance for any help and information provided. I am working on an Emerson HKTV13 which is a 13" Hello Kitty style TV for a friend and found that it might be a good candidate for an RGB mod. The picture using composite is already better than expected and I am pretty impressed with the tube. I could not find any information online for an RGB mod on this TV so I thought it would be wise to inquire here for some guidance. I am experienced in doing mods and electrical work, but I also don't want to make any mistakes that could compromise this TV.

The service manual can be found at this link - https://elektrotanya.com/emerson_hktv13 ... nload.html. There is a separate OSD and jungle chip so I think that a mux mod is possible. Based from the schematic it seems that a good SCART injection point would be at I705, but I would appreciate any insight on how to go about this. According to information from Sunthar's documentation I should remove the pull-down resistors on the output of the OSD chip, but I am unsure about the 4.7k pull-up resistors just after this in the HKTV13 circuit. It seems these will be necessary to keep for biasing, but I am not sure if the mux circuit will need to be adjusted accordingly.

Another positive aspect of this TV is that it already has a cutout available for a SCART connector that is currently being used for the composite. The PCB does not have the correct footprints for anything other than composite, but I think it will be possible to fit a connector and mount it directly to the plastic covering.

Thanks again, this could be a nice little TV for this mod.

[omgwild]

Hello!
I am new to this and I just want to ask if anybody knows if it's possible to add an RGB mod to Sony Trinitron KV-2553MT model? There is not much info at all about this tv sadly.
I have found some schematic diagrams. I will post pictures here so maybe someone more experienced can look at them.

Here are some schematic images from Google Drive:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... APKP3ntJYl

I would really appreciate if somebody could help me, thanks!

[8bitForLife]

Trying to factory reset a magnavox 27ms4504/17 would anyone know how to do that?

[titan91]

Does anyone have any experience with Orion ICs? Here is an IC out of a Citizen JCTV3242. Service manual shows it should be a Mitsubishi chip. I'm guessing this TV is an Orion rebrand. The IC in question appears to be C7081C 503102. Not sure if that is an 8 or a B. Tried searching for both part numbers and found nothing.

Spoiler

[titan91]

Does anyone have any experience with Orion ICs? Here is an IC out of a Citizen JCTV3242. Service manual shows it should be a Mitsubishi chip. I'm guessing this TV is an Orion rebrand. The IC in question appears to be C7081C 503102. Not sure if that is an 8 or a B. Tried searching for both part numbers and found nothing.

Spoiler

For anyone curious: I was looking at the micon part number again in the service manual, even though it's wrong, and noticed it starts with OEC. I can see something off to the left on the chip isn't clear so I searched for that and determined what I thought was an 8 is actually a 9. So the chip is documented and its part number is OEC7091C. The only site that has a screenshot from a service manual is here:

https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet/ETC/OEC7091-632426