JVC TM-H and DT-V thread

[Namingway_PL]

Found that my XPC-4 does a fantastic work in passing OSSC 240p through to the DT-V1710.

The XPC-4 You say? I need to try to get one of those. You seem to have the same goal as I had some time ago
As for the most perfect image on the DT-V, I got best resoults form the MiSTer FPGA direct video output. Basically zero wobble but some cores or certain games may exhibit flagging. ( I got some slight flagging on the SF Zero 3 on the Saturn core but other Saturn Games I played were fine).

As for the Extron RGB Interface devices. They usually work fine, but are problematic to use, need to be connected to power etc. Also at this point they are quite old. I would Also recommend getting a Sync Strike device. it's much easier to use, can be powered from the Scart cable and it will preety much give the same resoults as the Extron. Also it can be used in tandem with the Extron Interface.

For connecting HDMI devices to the DT-V. Most cheap DAC's that are none powered will have black crush and the image will have the screen cut at the left side. (they pretty much all are crapp tbh). The best You can get for this for the DT-V is the HDfury 3. it has some great features like full range RGB output, the "left cut" isse is resolved, and no black crush. Do not buy older HDfury devices like the Hdfury nano GX or HDfury 2 as they also will have the image cut at the left side in 720p / 1080i.

HD SDI is fine, but you are limited 720p/1080i (no 480p) and the color space is 4:2:2, and HDCP can be problematic so a HDfury 3 is a much better choice.

[mimylovesjapan]

Thanks for the advices !
For now, I have the perfect combination with
OSSC + XPC-4 (passthrough mode) + Extron for : Saturn/PSX/PS2/Dreamcast/PCengine
OSSC + XPC-4 (RGB 480x640 mode) + Extron for my PC-98
XPC-4 (passthrough mode) + Extron for HDMI sources 480p to 1080i (PS3, gamecube)
RGB2VGA only for Megadrive/SNES
Everything y perfect !
To connect everything I use some VGA/DVI/SCART switchers !

[kitty666cats]

Don’t listen to the person above about getting a Sync Strike or spending too much $ on a HDFury 3; there’s zero reason to get a Sync Strike if you have that SCART2VGA. A HDFury 3 is potentially worth it, but there’s plenty of HDMI to VGAs that support full range RGB/the image shift with the Extron *should* help with everything. 1080i is just naturally finicky with a lot of devices.

Also I’ve never heard of someone using a XPC-4 on passthrough mode to help get a stable sync signal, but tbh that’s a really clever idea you thought of right there

[Namingway_PL]

Don’t listen to the person above about getting a Sync Strike or spending too much $ on a HDFury 3; there’s zero reason to get a Sync Strike if you have that SCART2VGA. A HDFury 3 is potentially worth it, but there’s plenty of HDMI to VGAs that support full range RGB/the image shift with the Extron *should* help with everything. 1080i is just naturally finicky with a lot of devices.

Why not listen to my suggestins? What's wrong with the Sync Strike? It's a great and simple device for the DT-V and easy to use. I didn't say its mandatory or anything like that. The HDfury is a bit hard to find these days and a bit expensive but still it's pretty much the best DAC that You can get for the DT-V. But if You know about some alternatives please share. I would get one for myself incase my HDfury 3 dies someday.

As for the image cut on the left side, the Extron won't help with that, as its not a matter of shifting the screen. If Your DAC does that there is nothing You can do about it. Your only option would be get a better DAC.

Also what's that about 1080i being finicky? Inever had any issues with 1080i on the DT-V ever. Could You explain what do You mean by that?

[mimylovesjapan]

Yes, it may depends on what you have at home. Using HDfury or Syncstrike may have good results, but as I already have a XPC-4, OSSC and SCART2VGA, and the combination I published before was doing great job, it should not be necessary to use HDfury or Syncstrike. I think that's what kitty666 wanted to say !

[charlizardon]

The HDfury is a bit hard to find these days and a bit expensive but still it's pretty much the best DAC that You can get for the DT-V.

As for the image cut on the left side, the Extron won't help with that, as its not a matter of shifting the screen. If Your DAC does that there is nothing You can do about it. Your only option would be get a better DAC.

I highly appreciate your input. I'm partial to grabbing one second-hand if it ever pops up for a good deal.

I'll stick with the OSSC Pro for now since the advanced timings allow for the needed adjustments. Once those are saved within a profile, any 720p and 1080i signal in need of those adjustments can be recalled on a whim. It also allows for lag free line dropping of 1080p. That way there's no real need to send a 1080i signal directly (unless that would be preferable for any unthinkable reason).

It's true what you say about the cutoff. There's no point in shifting since the horizontal blanking eats into the overscan. From my own testing this is only a problem with 720p and 1080i sources. SD resolutions are unaffected which makes the problem fairly unnoticeable.

[Buffi]

Stupid question time: Will DT-V monitors display a 24khz signal?

I didn't see anyone conclusively answer this, so I guess I'll do it.
Yes it will display a 24khz signal.

I connected a Epson 386VR pc9801 clone to it through a Extron 203rxi, and the 24khz signal will sync and display.
Geometry needs to be adjusted with the service menu, but then it works great.

[fernan1234]

It had been noted earlier. I've used mine with 24khz from PC-88, PC-98, F77AV40, etc.

The monitor uses the geometry settings for 1080i, so you'll need to trade those off or adjust back and forth (I never use mine for HD stuff so it's not an issue for me).

[shardsy]

Alright DT-V Experts...

Is anyone familiar with the menu control circuitry? I am having an issue on one of my DT-V1710CG's where I am unable to open the menu or change the volume.

When I select the menu button it will flash the menu for about half a second but it will never stay open. The buttons respond to commands (i.e. I get a display response for volume up/down, menu open, service menu open, reset, etc.) but nothing ever remains open or changes a value. I swapped the front control pwb out with one from another monitor and it exhibits the same behavior so I am assuming it is likely an issue with a component on the signal pwb.

I believe to have ruled out a corrupt memory IC, I swapped the memory IC into my other 1710 and I was able to access the configuration and make changes, when I put the memory IC back into the original monitor those changes are reflected as they should be.

I thought I would see if anyone has run into this or a similar issue before I continue troubleshooting the signal pwb.

Thanks in advance!

[serbusfish]

Can anyone tell me if the '00' versions of the DT-V such as 1700 and 1900 models have problems with syncing to certain devices? I've heard that you cannot manually select the sync with these versions of the monitors and the monitor itself decides what sync to use? I really want to pick up a 19" DT-V which seem super rare compared to the 17" models, i'm wondering if a 1900 model pops up it will be worth going for?

[Namingway_PL]

I really want to pick up a 19" DT-V which seem super rare compared to the 17" models, i'm wondering if a 1900 model pops up it will be worth going for?

Ofcourse it would be worth it. As 17" DT-Vs are quite common, the 19'' units are somewhat rare. I have both the DT-V1910CG as well as the 1710CG and last Year I also had a DT-V1900CG too. In terms of performance There's not much of a difference between the two. Also both the 00 and 10 can exhibit some sync issues with certain systems so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

[shano]

I have a parts DT-V1710CG with the signal pwb. It arrived with tube damage so i'm parting it out. Let me know if you're interested

Hey mate wondering if you still have this spare signal board? Would love to buy it.

[amontre]

Is there any instructions on how to remove the front bezel for TM-150cg ? I found a donor/non functional set and want to take out its bezel to replace my broken set.