TV RGB mod thread

The place for all discussion on gaming hardware
patricksouza472
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2021 3:55 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by patricksouza472 »

Anonygoose wrote: Tue Jun 11, 2024 9:35 pm
patricksouza472 wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2024 11:33 pm It's hard to tell just by that little piece of schematics. Most likely the digital RGB input takes care of the OSD so it should still work
Edit:

Issue is I forgot to remove the 0ohm resistor tying the blanking pin to ground. Now I got proper RGB output.

2 new issues introduced however.

First, I can't adjust contrast in RGB. Changing it does not have any affect on the screen. Second, the image is way off center, while it's fine on component and other signals.

Hey

So I managed to wire everything up but I'm confused.

The display looks composite. I'm seeing composite rainbowing.

Here's what I did exactly.

Removed .01uf caps attached to the Analog RGB input pins
Connected RGB cables directly from there to a scart breakout board with 75ohm resistors and .1uf caps.
Blanking from YS was fed 3.6v from a nearby source.
Sync was taken from Video A composite pin

Tried taking sync from component Y, ended up with a black and white display.

Any idea what's going on here?
Some ICs work with TTL blanking on 3.3v and RGB blanking on 5v. There's actually some that require 9v to enter RGB mode. Maybe teste that. The fact that you managed to get a picture proves it can be modded, but it needs tweaking

EDIT: Make sure you actually wired SYNC and not composite to the AV composite sync. SCART carries both
drojman
Posts: 38
Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 5:05 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by drojman »

Huge thanks to Skum, his help and guides got me to this point.

Image

Image

Image



RGB modded JVC TM-1700PN. Only 490 hours :-)

Thrilled with the end result, 500-600TVL is my personal sweet spot.
Anonygoose
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 7:55 pm
Location: UAE

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Anonygoose »

patricksouza472 wrote: Wed Jun 12, 2024 2:06 pm
Anonygoose wrote: Tue Jun 11, 2024 9:35 pm
patricksouza472 wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2024 11:33 pm It's hard to tell just by that little piece of schematics. Most likely the digital RGB input takes care of the OSD so it should still work
Edit:

Issue is I forgot to remove the 0ohm resistor tying the blanking pin to ground. Now I got proper RGB output.

2 new issues introduced however.

First, I can't adjust contrast in RGB. Changing it does not have any affect on the screen. Second, the image is way off center, while it's fine on component and other signals.

Hey

So I managed to wire everything up but I'm confused.

The display looks composite. I'm seeing composite rainbowing.

Here's what I did exactly.

Removed .01uf caps attached to the Analog RGB input pins
Connected RGB cables directly from there to a scart breakout board with 75ohm resistors and .1uf caps.
Blanking from YS was fed 3.6v from a nearby source.
Sync was taken from Video A composite pin

Tried taking sync from component Y, ended up with a black and white display.

Any idea what's going on here?
Some ICs work with TTL blanking on 3.3v and RGB blanking on 5v. There's actually some that require 9v to enter RGB mode. Maybe teste that. The fact that you managed to get a picture proves it can be modded, but it needs tweaking

EDIT: Make sure you actually wired SYNC and not composite to the AV composite sync. SCART carries both
Thanks. It's all sorted after isolating the blanking pin. I got RGB output.

For the contrast issue, I just ended up dropping to 50ohm resistors, and it actually ended looking and calibrated very nice.

Thanks for the help guys 🙏🏼
habbener
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2024 12:29 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by habbener »

Hi All, newbie here! 😊

I've got a Kirara Basso KV-S29MH1 (with CXA1464AS jungle chip) ... and I am hoping to RGB mod it (plenty of Composite and S-Video inputs, but that's it)
Being a PVM tube, it would be "criminal" not to attempt an RGB mod 😉

However, I am trying to figure out if the RGB input on jungle chip is i2c disabled or not... and I'm not the best at schematics...

I found (I assume) the correct schematics for this model here:
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-s29-34 ... ad.html#dl

Is there any chance you, awesome people, could please have a look at the schematics and let me know if RGB is i2c disabled or not?

Additionally, I've found a thread on Aussie Arcades forum where the original poster (whom I message and got a reply from) stated that he got his KV-S34MH1 RGB successfully modded via Teletext ... unfortunately it was 6 years ago, and he didn't document it, since the TV itself was having "plenty of other issues already"
https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/8723 ... ara-basso/

My plan so far is:

1) Ensure the analogue RGB input is not controlled by i2c and/or can be easily enabled by supplying a 5v to the blanking pin (pin 15, I think)
2) Check if the set has a vacant teletext port and utilise it for the RGB mod (or do direct injections into jungle chip's pins 16, 17, 18)
3) Perform the mod and test

Found a good tutorial for the same jumbo chip as mine RGB mod:
https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony- ... -injection

In any case, thanks heaps in advance for your assistance! 🙏🏻

Mat
foppydrive
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2024 6:23 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by foppydrive »

I'm hoping someone might be able to offer some guidance and tell me if this is able to be modded.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69958 ... =35#manual
Anonygoose
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 7:55 pm
Location: UAE

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Anonygoose »

Got another one for you guys.

This is an Asian Sony Wega. Can't find any examples of it being RGB modded.

IC C001 TDA12067H1/N1E0B (Sony Wega KV-SW29M80)

It has a pin for Scart Fast Blanking which is giving me hope, but no pins for RGB inputs.

I see pins for R-Y/RIN, Y/GIN, and B-Y/BIN.

Is this chip combining YPbPr and RGB in the same pins?

Can I inject RGB at those pins (49, 50, 51) and use the SCARTFBL for blanking? I'll also bridge the pads at R993 to get 5v.

I can also see an RGB amplifier chip on the neckboard that has RGB inputs, but I'm hearing neckboard mods are quite complicated. However in this case, all the inputs on this chip lead to unpopulated resistors 🤔

https://imgur.com/a/fPfoBSO
spikespiegel
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2021 12:52 am
Location: Mars

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by spikespiegel »

I've rgb moded a Panasonic CRT TV, model TC-14A12, but I don't seem to be able to activate the blanking line.


This is the TV IC's datasheet:


https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... PS/N2.html


And this is the Tv service manual:


https://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc14 ... nload.html


Image


Pins 46, 47 and 48 are for the RGB, I've isolated them from the board. Pin 45 is F Blank (INSSW2), where I believe is the fast blanking line. I'm prettt sure I've soldered everything correctly. What am I doing wrong? I presume it's that I should also activate the rgb from the memory options.


By checking the IC's datasheet, I've come across with this:

Image


This looks like data from the microcontroller, but I don't how to edit this.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

spikespiegel wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2024 1:57 am This looks like data from the microcontroller, but I don't how to edit this.
If the thing has an RGB input, it either autodetects the input, or it has mode switch function that's activated either by altering the voltage to a pin, or by setting it in the memory. This can be in a user menu, a service menu, or sometimes it's just flashed and you can't fuck with it unless you can figure out how to reflash the memory (if it's reprogrammable) or swap it out with a new chip programmed the way you want it (if it's not).

It looks like that chip has a bit set on the YUV line to toggle between RGB input and S-Video input. You would need to figure out if there's some way to do that in a service menu, and that should be in the service manual. I don't speak Spanish, so I can't read your manual.

If it involves reprogramming the system memory, I think the general consensus is to leave it alone, but I've never run into a set like that before.

Also, AFA the blanking goes, my experience with setting the blanking pin is for when you want to hack the on screen display (OSD) RGB lines to input RGB that way. That blanks the screen, but it leaves the OSD running, so you get whatever is on the OSD inputs. Though this generally only works with OSDs that are analog inputs, and many are digital RGB, which would require you do some level shifting/DC restoration crap that isn't impossible, but it's hard.

I don't think you want to fuck with the blanking pin if your using the actual RGB input on the chip (and not the OSD), but idk, maybe I'm wrong.
spikespiegel
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2021 12:52 am
Location: Mars

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by spikespiegel »

The service manual is written in Portuguese, there's this one in English which maybe is the same thing:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/655 ... 4a12p.html

Those RGB inputs are analog, and they are unused, I have even isolated them and the fast blanking, and I still can use my ps2 console via composite video, also the osd is working just fine. The main IC datadsheet is in English.

What's the maximum voltage that I could use with the fast blanking?
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

spikespiegel wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2024 3:43 am What's the maximum voltage that I could use with the fast blanking?
Probably 3.3V or 5V. The RGB inputs are expecting normal 0.7V. But I'm not sure you'd want to pull the blanking pin high to get RGB to show up anyway. Someone else here will have to comment on that.

I read the english manual, and it looks like there's no way to change the RGB behavior in the service menu, and it has EEPROMs in it, which leads me to believe that the microcode is only changeable by writing new ROMs and swapping them out. There is also provisions for I^2C control, but that's beyond me with something like this. Ben Heck could probably do it lol.

It looks to me like they are "turned off" in software, and tied to ground, as the schematic has all those pins 45-48, set to zero volts.

"Switching between RGB and the YUV mode can be realised via the YUV bit in subaddress 2BH"

Again, maybe someone else can comment, but it seems like you're doing the right thing and it isn't working.
spikespiegel
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2021 12:52 am
Location: Mars

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by spikespiegel »

Those panasonic sets always requires blanking activation, and I had to activate the rgb through service menu before, the thing is that enabling the rgb is for Micronas chips, I didn't expect this set to have the same behavior, but worse, via eeprom...
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

spikespiegel wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2024 1:02 pm Those panasonic sets always requires blanking activation, and I had to activate the rgb through service menu before, the thing is that enabling the rgb is for Micronas chips, I didn't expect this set to have the same behavior, but worse, via eeprom...
i think the way forward would be to desolder the EEPROM and dump it (you will probably have to get a sodim package to through hole adapter). Then you could inspect the contents and look for the string that sets the RGB/YUV and change it. But it would be a fuck ton of work to go through and it might not work if you have to also change some other registers.
spikespiegel
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2021 12:52 am
Location: Mars

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by spikespiegel »

I decided to connect my ps2 to the tv via composite video (to try to have something to sync) and noticed one thing: when I held the rgb mod blanking wire while my foot was over the ac cable on the ground, the screen faded into black, almost pitch black. It didn't just turn black, it faded, smoothly. Does this mean that the blanking is working? Well, tested with 3.5v, 4.8v and 5v volts, even 6.25 and 7.50 volts, nothing worked, but when there was current coming from my foot, it worked. Perhaps I should try a higher voltage, like 8 volts?
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

spikespiegel wrote: Fri Jul 05, 2024 8:58 pm I decided to connect my ps2 to the tv via composite video (to try to have something to sync) and noticed one thing: when I held the rgb mod blanking wire while my foot was over the ac cable on the ground, the screen faded into black, almost pitch black. It didn't just turn black, it faded, smoothly. Does this mean that the blanking is working? Well, tested with 3.5v, 4.8v and 5v volts, even 6.25 and 7.50 volts, nothing worked, but when there was current coming from my foot, it worked. Perhaps I should try a higher voltage, like 8 volts?
No. I wouldn't try to overvolt the blanking pin. The chances that it's something other than 3.3V or 5V are slim to none. It could also be held to ground for blanking, but it's naturally held to zero volts (which I'm assuming is just chassis), so that would suggest to me that it's normally off.

Most likely it's not working because the EEPROM isn't coded to tell the microcontroller to do something important for that functionality. I'm not going to read that entire datasheet, and even if I did, you'd still be the one who would need to reprogram the thing, so it wouldn't make a difference if I did; it would just reveal exactly why it's not working. Not worth it.

That's about where I would leave it, but someone else here might wanna chime in. AFAIK, this has come up before and the people here aren't reprogramming ROMs.
spikespiegel
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2021 12:52 am
Location: Mars

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by spikespiegel »

Are you sure this cant be solved via service menu? I still havent bought the controller.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

spikespiegel wrote: Sun Jul 07, 2024 1:09 am Are you sure this cant be solved via service menu? I still havent bought the controller.
I suppose it's possible that some combo of the CHK1 options in the service menu could alter the relevant memory registers, but I can't find any explanation in the SM. There could maybe be some additional service info like a bulletin or a guide that explains what all that does for the set or a for a whole range of sets, but I have no idea how to find such a thing. It also might be possible to infer which value might be the right one to change by reading the IC datasheet and understanding the values that are currently set (if 0,0 is YUV, then maybe setting one of those to RGB is the correct solution), but there is also the possibility that more than one register needs changing, and also there is a non zero chance that one of those will blank the menu out and you'll brick the set.

Image
User avatar
Pikkon
Posts: 128
Joined: Tue May 26, 2015 6:25 am
Location: Florida

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

spikespiegel wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2024 1:57 am I've rgb moded a Panasonic CRT TV, model TC-14A12, but I don't seem to be able to activate the blanking line.
That jungle IC look very similar to a Phillips I used to have,the chip is either Component or RGB and can't be changed in the service menu.

I did mod mine for component as that what it was set for but I had to enable it in the service menu.
ilpabl0x
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2024 12:35 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by ilpabl0x »

Hi guys, I'm trying to mod a JVC AV-2196SAH (service manual here: https://manualmachine.com/jvc/av2196sah ... ce-manual/)

So far, I've got it to display the signal, but the image is covered in a swirly noise and 3 foggy bars. The noise appears whenever the external blanking signal is being fed, it doesn't matter if its from the SCART cable or from the chassis itself, tried both ways with the same results. I added a diode in the blanking line coming from the micon chip, and it helped to reduce the noise, before it was much worse, but it's still not there yet.

Here are some pictures of how the noise looks like:
https://imgur.com/a/zVxBVqw

Here's where I injected the different signals:
https://imgur.com/a/4k4bruK

And here's a diagram I made in the style of sunthar's to illustrate what I've got so far:
Image

I'm kinda losing my mind over here so I wanted to ask before trying more stuff, any help would be appreciated :( .
User avatar
Pikkon
Posts: 128
Joined: Tue May 26, 2015 6:25 am
Location: Florida

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

Are any of your wires close to the flyback,can definitely cause interference.
ilpabl0x
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2024 12:35 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by ilpabl0x »

Pikkon wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2024 4:19 am Are any of your wires close to the flyback,can definitely cause interference.
Hmm not really, and I just noticed that when there is no external blanking signal, i.e "normal" mode, the swirl is still there, just baaaaarely visible, so I'm starting to think the problem is within the TV itself.
KitsuneNoTikune
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2024 12:21 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KitsuneNoTikune »

Is it possible to rgb mod a Sony trinitron kv 1223rs from 1982?
TKez
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2024 2:28 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by TKez »

Hey peoples!
I'm almost done modding an LG Flatron which I posted recently about here viewtopic.php?t=60010
Pretty old and specific thread though so I'll switch to here.
With much tinkering and head scratching, I've finally got RGB working on this board.
There were a bunch of jumpers that needed to be fitted, and the thing that really stumped me, a bunch of jumpers that needed to be removed (marked as resistors with specific values on the schemtatic). LG must have really wanted switching this to Scart to be difficult!

Seems to be working ok now, except the gamma response doesn't seem right. After about %50, things curve off to black too quickly.
No amount of FBT tweaking or service menu adjustments seems to alleviate the issue which brings me to the topic of load / impedance / terminating resistors. I must admit, I've never really got my head around impedance properly.

Firstly, could mis-matched impedance cause the gamma response to be off?

Diagnostics:
With the 75ohm resistors in place at the Scart connector position on the PCB, I wasn't getting anywhere close to 0.7Vpp at the jungle chip on the RGB lines. More like 0.2Vpp and with a bit of a spike on the edges of the square waves.
(Checking the data sheet for the VCT49xy, it is indeed looking for 0.7V at the RGB inputs)
So I removed the terminating resistors completely. Now I get full 0.7Vpp clean waveforms at the jungle chip and im not seeing noise or ghosting.
Measuring between one of those lines and ground I get ~0ohms so no sneaky load resistors elsewhere.

So should I maybe try add some higher value resistors there instead of 75ohm so there is at least some load?
Or should I just be thankful it all works as it is and try deal with perfecting the gamma in software?

I ended up just putting wire jumpers at L201, L204, L206, L206, R217, R218, R219.
I tried 75ohm resistors at R203, R204, R205, R213 which grounded most of the signal so removed them completey.

Image

My source is MisterFPGA board VGA port which I assume should be standard 75ohm, but I have no idea how to test it.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

KitsuneNoTikune wrote: Sun Jul 14, 2024 12:24 am Is it possible to rgb mod a Sony trinitron kv 1223rs from 1982?
Probably outside of the scope of this thread. I don't easily see the schematics for it online, but it's before there were on-screen displays and jungle ICs that are commonly used to do the RBG mods here.

Additionally, it's an RF only set without a DC power hookup, so that means it most likely a hot chassis and would require a power transformer to be fit inside to isolate it from the grid first. That in itself is anothr $50, if you can even find a spot inside to put the thing (those smaller sony's were packed tight)
ArmorKnightPlus
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2024 9:11 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by ArmorKnightPlus »

Hey all, new to the forums and have an odd question. Hopefully this falls within the scope of this thread.

I recently acquired a number of Dotronix DSV27 TVs. These models only take a single video input: a custom DB9 connector with RGBS input. They don't do composite, SVideo, component, RGB over SCART... only this custom DB9 connection (page 9). No audio input/speakers.

I'd like to hook up my older game consoles (Gamecube, N64, PS2, SNES). Obviously these don't output RGBS (with the exception of the SNES). My issue is that because I have multiples of this TV and because I don't want to RGB mod plus build custom cables for EVERY console I ever hook up to these TVs, I'd like to instead mod the TVs to take SVideo, if possible. I know this thread is for RGB mods, not SVideo, but I figured it'd be best to ask in a thread full of people already looking at similar mods, and this kinda involves RGB.

The chip on the TV board is a Panasonic AN5601K. It lists a chroma input for pin 5, and I see some R-Y and B-Y inputs... but I'm otherwise lost. Does anyone here have enough knowledge to tell if an SVideo mod might be possible here? Thank you for any and all advice/help!
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

ArmorKnightPlus wrote: Fri Jul 26, 2024 10:06 am Hey all, new to the forums and have an odd question. Hopefully this falls within the scope of this thread.
I think we want to keep this thread clean for RGB mod stuff. Others besides me are more the mod here, but there's no reason you shouldn't just start a new thread of your own.

You can just copy and paste the relevant parts of you post.

FWIW, your approach is most likely going to be finding another set that uses the same jungle IC and copying the s-video input circuit. Another approach that will require less work is getting something which will convert the s-video into RGBS.
TKez
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2024 2:28 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by TKez »

TKez wrote: Tue Jul 23, 2024 12:50 am Hey peoples!
I'm almost done modding an LG Flatron which I posted recently about here viewtopic.php?t=60010
Pretty old and specific thread though so I'll switch to here.
With much tinkering and head scratching, I've finally got RGB working on this board.
There were a bunch of jumpers that needed to be fitted, and the thing that really stumped me, a bunch of jumpers that needed to be removed (marked as resistors with specific values on the schemtatic). LG must have really wanted switching this to Scart to be difficult!

Seems to be working ok now, except the gamma response doesn't seem right. After about %50, things curve off to black too quickly.
No amount of FBT tweaking or service menu adjustments seems to alleviate the issue which brings me to the topic of load / impedance / terminating resistors. I must admit, I've never really got my head around impedance properly.

Firstly, could mis-matched impedance cause the gamma response to be off?

Diagnostics:
With the 75ohm resistors in place at the Scart connector position on the PCB, I wasn't getting anywhere close to 0.7Vpp at the jungle chip on the RGB lines. More like 0.2Vpp and with a bit of a spike on the edges of the square waves.
(Checking the data sheet for the VCT49xy, it is indeed looking for 0.7V at the RGB inputs)
So I removed the terminating resistors completely. Now I get full 0.7Vpp clean waveforms at the jungle chip and im not seeing noise or ghosting.
Measuring between one of those lines and ground I get ~0ohms so no sneaky load resistors elsewhere.

So should I maybe try add some higher value resistors there instead of 75ohm so there is at least some load?
Or should I just be thankful it all works as it is and try deal with perfecting the gamma in software?

I ended up just putting wire jumpers at L201, L204, L206, L206, R217, R218, R219.
I tried 75ohm resistors at R203, R204, R205, R213 which grounded most of the signal so removed them completey.

Image

My source is MisterFPGA board VGA port which I assume should be standard 75ohm, but I have no idea how to test it.
Ok this guy is in full working order. TL;DR I tweaked the terminating resistors and added missing caps at the jungle and it was happy days.

For anyone winding up here on a journey with an LG, I figure I'll make note of what had to be done, and what I learned along the way.

Firstly, the terminating resistors were pulling down the voltage too much. I also couldn't quite understand their function and why it the image looked better without them.

As I understand it now (after a long chat with ChatGPT), if the signals only have one path to follow to ground through the IC, some of the signal can reflect back on the lines and create ghosting and interence. Something like a channel of water hitting a big turbine that can't instantly start to turn. Some of the water bounces off the blades backwards and created turbulence.
By splitting the signal and creating a second path to ground, this can relieve some pressure and smooth out the flow. In the case of 75ohm resistors, it's roughly splitting the signal In half.
But now we have half signal doing work, and half going directly ground. That means to get 0.7Vpp at the chip, we now need twice as much at the source, or about 1.4V with cable disconnected.

In my case, I was only measuring ~0.84Vpp with the cable disconnected. Not enough for 75ohms. So the easiest fix in my head was change the resistors. Indeed, placing 390ohm resistors at the Scart position instead of 75ohm gave me 0.7pp at the chip.

Later I realised what the resistors marked with a star were on the schematic! They create a voltage divider with the terminating resistors and their value would be calculated to get the voltage to 0.7Vpp. In my case I should have kept the 75ohm resistors at R203, R204, R205, R213, and put 3k9 resistors in mystery positions R19,R218,R217 where I put jumpers.

A bunch of other jumpers (marked on schematic) had to be put in place to get the RGB & FB lines before I was getting the proper 0.7Vpp waveforms at the jungle, but even with them in place I still wasn't getting a picture, no matter what voltage was applied to the FBIN(78) pin. Then I saw the problem! LG had a jumper to ground at the R525 position which should be 1.2K. I removed that jumper and bam! Picture.

Now it was all working great, but there was something up with the luminance values. There was no dark greys, things seemed to clip off to black at about %33. No amount of service menu tweaking could correct it. Then I noticed the last issue. LG had also put jumpers at the cap positions at the jungle (C515, C516, C518). Once I put the correct 0.1uf caps there it was golden.

If someone could help complete my understanding here it would be great. I would have thought those caps decoupling caps, removing the DC component from the signal. But the chip expects 0.0 - 0.7V which is the same DC range as the VGA cable no?
DLK
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2024 12:36 am

Re: Sharp 14VT10X1

Post by DLK »

Trying to determine whether or not this set is RGB modable and how to go about it. I found the RGB lines on page 107 of the service manual on IC801, but can’t seem to find an OSD chip. Here is a link to the manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/24903 ... t10x1.html

Any help would be appreciated
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2992
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Sharp 14VT10X1

Post by vol.2 »

DLK wrote: Wed Jul 31, 2024 12:41 am Trying to determine whether or not this set is RGB modable and how to go about it. I found the RGB lines on page 107 of the service manual on IC801, but can’t seem to find an OSD chip. Here is a link to the manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/24903 ... t10x1.html

Any help would be appreciated
If I'm reading it correctly, the RGB is coming out of the "timer IC." Perhaps it serves multiple purposes. RH-iX0609GEZZ and RH-iX0608GEZZ

Looks like they are special Sharp roll-your-own deals and there ain't no datasheets out there. They clearly didn't sell these 3rd party.

https://www.ued.net/catalog/cat_item_idx_5872.html

You might be able to just put RBG into the main video IC and feed the sync into the composite jack, but voltage values on the inputs seem to indicate that it's probably higher than normal video levels (possible a digital input). I don't think you'll ever find a datasheet for that IC either.

My thoughts would be no, probably not.
RGBhobbyBrazil
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2024 2:10 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by RGBhobbyBrazil »

matt wrote: Mon Jan 25, 2021 8:58 am
stonesipping wrote:Followup on adding Component video to Magnavox tv 14MS2331/17. (According to the user manual 20MS2331/17 and 20MS2331/37R are similar.)
Enter the service menu, and goto Options, OP #5. The CVI input select option has a bit value of 8. This value is off meaning 0 value, when my original value is 192. Using the number keys on the remote enter 200. Exit the service menu. According to the instructions the tv should be powered off and unplugged from the wall for at least 10 seconds to assure writing of the data.

If you haven't already its probably time to identify the chip in your TV where the signal will be connected. My chip is labeled TDA9377PS/N3/A/1815, and the methods used should work for TDA9377 and TDA9370 chips, but I make no promises. The incoming Component signal first needs to be sent to grounding 75ohm resistor and through 10uf /16V coupling capacitor with + leg facing the chip, according to a China TDA9730 TV schematic. Connect signals to pins 46-(V / Pr / Red), 47-(Y / Green), and 48-(U / Pb / Blue). I chose to connect to top side of the jungle chip.

Finally blanking travels through a 1k0 surface mount resistor from 8v line to pin 45. This component had to be populated on the circuit board to be able to switch on Component transcoding. The tv could only display Composite without this.

Connect your audio lines to front stereo jacks, and don't forget to ground the video lines. The CVI is selected with the channel up/down button on screen, so there's no need to add toggle switches.
Thanks for posting this! I happen to have one of these TVs that I picked up from the curb a few months ago, and tried playing around with this mod a couple of days ago. It works beautifully - with component enabled I'd have to say it's one of the best looking 14" TVs I've seen. I imagine this would work on most Philips TVs from that era.

Some things I noticed:

- The schematics I found using the TDA937x chip all use 22nF coupling capacitors on the YUV lines. I used .1uF because I had some handy, and it worked fine.

- You can enable S-Video by changing option 5 to 204 (or whatever your initial setting was plus 4). Chroma input is on pin 43 and Luma goes through the front composite jack. As usual, the Chroma input needs a 75 ohm terminating resistor and a coupling capacitor (again, 0.1uf worked for me).

Service manual for the LO3.2U chassis:
https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... nload.html

Info on the TDA937x chip:
https://diagramasde.com/blog/71983/AN-T ... -V1-0.html
Hail Masters!

I'm trying to make this mod but I wasn't successful on the TDA9370PS/N3/A/1929... I was able to send the AV signal via Scart with my Mega Drive 2... but with the Super Nintendo I didn't get an image because it was Sync on Luma... Any suggestions on how I could go about getting the image?
titan91
Posts: 96
Joined: Sun May 14, 2023 1:44 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by titan91 »

Repost.
Last edited by titan91 on Fri Aug 02, 2024 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Post Reply