

Matt
what are the part numbers on the chips themselves? I've noticed on USA Sharp TVs, a lot of times they rebrand other chips with their own part numbers starting with "IX." often times it turns out to simply be a rebranded Toshiba or Sanyo jungle IC.Mrmatt3465 wrote:So about thatI haven’t been able to find a schematic of a repair manual for this thing either. In order to troubleshoot it and do any repairs, I’ve been tediously looking at traces and following point to point where things lead. It’s very much in the dark but I’ve managed to repair some basic things like no power to the 27v bus or 25v bus by replacing blown diodes and current limiting resistors off the fly back. It’s probably a miracle i fixed anything at all considering most of the time I’m watching videos from guys in India fixing busted up CRT TVs
I will however see if there are similar chips available that I can potentially get a data sheet for and then I’ll try and validate it on the board itself. I don’t own an oscilloscope, only a cheap DMM but it’s gotten me this far.
Matt
IX1736CE and X1078CE. That would make sense. The vertical IC I ordered, I found a website that said the compatible IC was an LA7830 [Sanyo?] yet the Sharp number was like X0640CE. Let me see if I can find anything now after omitting the X or IX.cyborc wrote: what are the part numbers on the chips themselves? I've noticed on USA Sharp TVs, a lot of times they rebrand other chips with their own part numbers starting with "IX." often times it turns out to simply be a rebranded Toshiba or Sanyo jungle IC.
IX1078CE is a TA8601BN equivalent.Mrmatt3465 wrote:IX1736CE and X1078CE. That would make sense. The vertical IC I ordered, I found a website that said the compatible IC was an LA7830 [Sanyo?] yet the Sharp number was like X0640CE. Let me see if I can find anything now after omitting the X or IX.cyborc wrote: what are the part numbers on the chips themselves? I've noticed on USA Sharp TVs, a lot of times they rebrand other chips with their own part numbers starting with "IX." often times it turns out to simply be a rebranded Toshiba or Sanyo jungle IC.
Matt
If you see your injected RGB through the OSD text it sounds like your have your blanking voltage level wrong.tacoguy64 wrote:Still working on a JVC AV32D302, was given two weeks to try and work on it before throwing it away.
Last left off I was following the mod from Maxtherabbit on page 102 since it was the same mod. Just copy and paste with the only difference being the scart connector and use the mux method from MarkOzlad. I get a black screen when powering the system, but can see part of the game when i hit the menu button. It's been a while since I last worked on it but my question where how to wire the scart connector exactly, using Max's procedure and Mark's diagram.
Thank you for this info! Using this, tonight I traced the circuit from the X1078CE to the Jungle IC IX1736CE and here is what I came up with:MarkOZLAD wrote:IX1078CE is a TA8601BN equivalent.
i have this exact same trinitron, I will try to attach the jungle chip. I am not an electrical novice (i can read a schematic but the television terminology is new to me) and i have modded several of my consoles myself. i wanted to RGB mod this television which was manufactured in the US in 1996. if a component (ypbpr) mod is possible i would prefer that as i have already purchased HDretrovision cables for all my consoles (which is not a big deal to replace them with scart, but if the component mod is possible it is preferred).maxtherabbit wrote:has anyone ever tried YPbPr modding a 90s curved trinitron?
I was looking at one service manual for the kv-32s22, which uses the CXA2025AS Y/C/J, and it appears to take YUV at the correct levels from the PiP board... seems like a component mod for that jungle chip would be a breeze
I think that IC only accepts composite. If I had to guess, composite input is pin 14 on IC7901. It shows some kind of a composite input in the schematic where it shows VIDEO IN VIDEO out. If your set doesn't have that (it would probably be a small headphone type plug hole on that kind of portable set) then you could definitely add it somehow. Problem is the schematic is not very helpful and the datasheet is unavailable. If it was me, I would give up on that set and try a different one.retromaniak wrote:optionally, instead of RGB mod, I also thought about installing component (if it would be easier to implement)
It's true, but I heard that you can still make a mod ...vol.2 wrote:I think that IC only accepts composite.
You would have to work out how to build a new output stage. You couldn't use the IC that's in there. It would be a monumental task. IMHO, that set isn't worth the trouble. On top of that, the schematic sucks and there aren't any datasheets for the ICs available. I would recommend finding a new one.retromaniak wrote:It's true, but I heard that you can still make a mod ...vol.2 wrote:I think that IC only accepts composite.
I have this same TV, and I was very curious about your post. I am new to RGB TV modding, so i don't understand all the terms YET, but i am learning. I spent a lot of time pouring over the wiring diagrams and found it does have a signal that converts video from the video switcher to ypbpr video (through a series of transistors and resistors right out of the PIP chip, and there is a signal wire (pip blanking wire) there for PIP, but I am ASSUMING that the "pip" in the chips name stands for Picture in picture, and if that is the case then according to the owners manual that signal would only be displayed in a 1/9th or 1/16th portion of the screen.maxtherabbit wrote:has anyone ever tried YPbPr modding a 90s curved trinitron?
I was looking at one service manual for the kv-32s22, which uses the CXA2025AS Y/C/J, and it appears to take YUV at the correct levels from the PiP board... seems like a component mod for that jungle chip would be a breeze
ended up being the slightly older version of the chassis that uses the CXA2025S - it does have PiP and still takes analog YUV on the same pins, but it doesn't have the EY-SW register to worry about
it also has an analog RGB OSD, so I guess I can bang out both inputs![]()
I'll post back whenever I get around to it, probably be a while
That jungle ic does take an rgb input, so it should be suitable for an rgb mod as long as it uses analog rgb (some use digital rgb signals that only support a few shades) the blanking pin is pin 17, labeled YS, which seems to be a common descriptor for blanking. The RGB inputs that you should be sending your signals from the scart connection to are pins 18, 19, and 20 (rin is r input etc.) how exactly you wire it up will depend on whether you use the mux method or the older lifted pins method that isn't reccomend.hotdogs_stuff wrote:i have this exact same trinitron, I will try to attach the jungle chip. I am not an electrical novice (i can read a schematic but the television terminology is new to me) and i have modded several of my consoles myself. i wanted to RGB mod this television which was manufactured in the US in 1996. if a component (ypbpr) mod is possible i would prefer that as i have already purchased HDretrovision cables for all my consoles (which is not a big deal to replace them with scart, but if the component mod is possible it is preferred).maxtherabbit wrote:has anyone ever tried YPbPr modding a 90s curved trinitron?
I was looking at one service manual for the kv-32s22, which uses the CXA2025AS Y/C/J, and it appears to take YUV at the correct levels from the PiP board... seems like a component mod for that jungle chip would be a breeze
my questions are:
1- if the mod is possible for this TV, which inputs on the jungle chip would i use. being new to the terminology I can't make sense of the pins and my schematic for my Sony Wega (which does have component inputs) uses completely different terminology for the pins.
2- if the component mod is not possible can someone please point me to some reference resources for the RGB mod? I am not sure if the scart input needs to run to the jungle chip's inputs or outputs, and exactly how to set up the capacitors and resistors. the TV is still useful to me because it has s-video so i'd hate to blow it up because i didn't fully comprehend what i was trying to do.
thanks in advance.
IMG_8026 by hotdog stuff, on Flickr
No, you cannot use digital RGB inputs for a mod. The quickest way to check if your analog inputs are disabled is to put the TV on the TV input (static) and apply voltage to Ys 15. If the screen goes solid black when you do then the mod will probably work.ektroy wrote:So after waiting for my post to approve I did some more research, on the CXA1465AS there are:
Ys 15
A R IN 16
A G IN 17
A B IN 18
Based off of another post I seen I could pull 16 17 18 Inject there and run 4.5V to Ys via 1k/1k voltage divider from Vcc 2 in which case that input could be blocked by the i2c. How can i tell if its blocked? Pull 16-18 and apply 4.5V to Ys and see If I get an input?
Also I found these pins but they appear to be digital? Can I use a digtal input if the analog is blocked?
OSD BLK 9
D B IN 10
D B IN 11
D B IN 12
AA-2D chassis. Very common and done numerous times in this thread. I did it a couple of months ago here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1429634&hil ... 6#p1429634Cooperd9 wrote:I'm planning out an rgb mod for a KV32S65 trinitron I picked out today, I'm planning on trying out the OSD mux method on this but I'm having a bit of trouble. Does anyone know how to calculate the values for the resistors on the SCART RGB signals? My tv uses 0.7Vp2p rgb signals but has smaller OSD in-line resistor values that aren't included in the table. Specifically, the resistors on the RGB lines are 100 Ohms according the service manual, which I sanity checked with my multimeter after seeing that the smallest resistor listed in the tables is 620ohms, but still got 100 ohms for the resistors. (also, the in-line resistors and capacitors are all SMDs, so getting all of this to fit will be tricky but I should be able to manage, although I might have to use some axial resistors of the same value)
When injecting into an existing OSD circuit I've always just kept whatever existing caps there are in place. I use 100nF if adding my own (such as injecting into unused RGB inputs on the jungle, etc.).tongshadow wrote:I'm aware this is a very generic question regarding the mod, but let's say if the schematic shows 22nF capacitors in series should be used for the RGB lines, would it still better to use 100nF capacitors instead? Every tutorial/schematic I see uses 100nF capacitors.
Have any of you used such values instead of what the original schematic asks?