FinalBaton wrote:
looking good Dochartaigh! I might do a BNC version of the cable too, that's a great idea. I made a SCART one but a BNC one would allow me to use Extron matrixes(and is way easier to solder than DE-15, which I personally can't work on)
This set has adjustable colour temperature(32k, 65k and 92k. needless to say that 32k is wayyyyy to fucking reddish) so you could try switching that to tame reds.
Mine has very deep reds too but it's not bleeding nor clipping. They're very rich but controlled. They look different from a mid-grade PVM's reds, but they still look awesome. I think it might be down to the phosphors used
Personally I'm not a fan of adjusting factory colour channel gains and cutoff on a RGB set, unless it's very obvious that they're off/drifted off-spec.
From your pic, the brightness seems too high(which really does a number on reds in particular, makes them look pink-ish), so either turn it down on the set, or if it's a 1-Chip Snes/Sufami you're using : put resistors on the RGB lines of the console or it's cable (if you don't wanna do that mod then you'll have to turn brightness way down(to something like 10 clicks up from minimum or so) when you go from your other consoles to the Sufami).
Oh forgot to say : the horizontal picture centering knob at the back works for analog RGB on this set (whereas on a PVM-2530 it will only work for digital RGB). Can be handy when switching console and you need to move the picture an inch or so to the left or right.
I'll mess around with the controls again but I don't have the RM-727 remote (only one is on eBay for ~$200+ which is about 5x more than I'll pay

so I don't know if I can adjust the color temp via the physical buttons. I don't have the Operating Manual, only the Service Manual, but there's also zero mention of color temperature anywhere so I don't know if this DXR version has that (like I'm assuming the XBR has). They do mention something called Trini
tone (which on others specifically mentions bringing red up or down), but per the manual I think it's just adjusting Hue (which I haven't touched yet). It's actually not far off from where it should be (via the naked eye, in-person at least).
For brightness, the set is actually a little too dim - that's just my camera I think. These pics were from a 1CHIP-03 (CSYNC restored) with 3x resistors for brightness, running over 75' of BNC cable from my game room where the Crosspoint is (this set is in my living room now). When I hook it up directly to a RP3 with RGBS hat (which previously has correct brightness levels) it's also just a smidge dim too so it wasn't just the long cable run. Turning brightness up made blacks washed out so I'll have to figure out a good balance there (open to suggestions on what to tune).
For centering, I'm pretty sure the "Digital" in this model's name is because of the digital deflection (might even be the first model with this), and there's actually two buttons for H Center on the back, not a dial - but it works on analog RGBS signals so that's great.
On the digital deflection front, this actually has an on-screen service menu! You have to trigger it via a switch inside the case (which I plan on routing to the back so I can hit it whenever), but you can adjust everything from width, height, centering, R/G/B drive, Pin, linearity, etc. etc.

This is both a blessing and a curse now though....I can't make the service menu work without the original remote I don't think. I had a buddy pull up this TV's profile on his Logitech Harmony universal remote and there doesn't seem to be buttons for Sleep which is needed to write the value to memory. Don't know if it has the + and - buttons either (which are separate buttons from channel or volume +/-), or left and right as well...so I'm kinda at a loss here right now. Normally I can adjust that via pots in a TV of this age...but the Service Manual didn't mention anything on those so I'm pretty positive it's all done digitally with that remote...