TV RGB mod thread

[Apache Thunder]

Oh yeah I went up and re-read that part about 1-3v to blanking. Must have missed that part. Where in the schematic where I find that? This one's manual is a bit confusing. It has the various areas of the PCB parted out to several pages and isn't quite as easy to look at as the Sanyo manual.

And by 1-3v I guess either find a 1/3v positive rail somewhere and feed it to that or from external source? Still a bit new to this. Just got done with adding composite on B&W tvs so already there's a ton of new stuff I'll need to research on this.

I don't have a proper cable for the Genesis 2 though. Won't pull this TV apart again until I have at least that. My quick test before was simply jamming wires into the Genesis's RGB port as a temperary connection to probe how the TV would react to it. So yeah that clearly wasn't enough. I'd have to go in and do what you suggested involving the blanking thing. Might try that once I'm done thinking over what to do with the Sony tv.

[MarkOZLAD]

Oh yeah I went up and re-read that part about 1-3v to blanking. Must have missed that part. Where in the schematic where I find that? This one's manual is a bit confusing. It has the various areas of the PCB parted out to several pages and isn't quite as easy to look at as the Sanyo manual.

And by 1-3v I guess either find a 1/3v positive rail somewhere and feed it to that or from external source? Still a bit new to this. Just got done with adding composite on B&W tvs so already there's a ton of new stuff I'll need to research on this.

For the 1-3V use the 5V rail and a potentiometer wired for voltage division.

I can't even remember which TV or jungle yours is, I help so many people. Please remind me?

[Apache Thunder]

The service manual for the Philips TV is here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69913 ... e=1#manual

I think the Jungle IC is on page 110 (labeled as A5 section of the schematic). God I hate this schematic layout. It's one of those I'd have to print out because it's got almost everything on separate pages. lol

EDIT: A TDA95XX I think? It looks to be the right IC as it has connectings going off to the CRT panel and the jungle IC is usually the last thing in the circuit before you get to the neckboard.

[MarkOZLAD]

The service manual for the Philips TV is here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69913 ... e=1#manual

I think the Jungle IC is on page 110 (labeled as A5 section of the schematic). God I hate this schematic layout. It's one of those I'd have to print out because it's got almost everything on separate pages. lol

EDIT: A TDA95XX I think? It looks to be the right IC as it has connectings going off to the CRT panel and the jungle IC is usually the last thing in the circuit before you get to the neckboard.

Yes the multi page layout of the schematic sucks. Such a time waster.

FBL-1 on page 110 is the blanking line. Might be able to insert a voltage on connector 0242 pin 5 seen on page 118. Is that header empty? Check connectivity.

[Apache Thunder]

242? I believe that's the connector used by the PIP module. Yeah 99.9% sure it's unpopulated at the moment. This model TV does not have the PIP module installed.

EDIT: Actually this may be for ITV? Pretty sure that's not used on this model either so should be unpopulated and should be easy to tap into. I'll look for that next time I open the TV and once I have the proper cables.

Not sure if there's a physical jack actually soldered in for either of those connectors. Didn't specifically look for them last time I had the TV open.

After taking a closer look at page 110, there appears to be a resistor it goes through before going to the chip? That part is labeled "Set with PIP". Since this set doesn't have the PIP modele (I did see where it could be mounted so this chassis does have the physical mounts for it), they probably left that unpopulated. Would either need to add that resistor or bridge it and do what you suggested. Though that resistor could be the correct value for pulling 5v down to the 1-3v range I need?

I might as well solder the connection there instead of the 242 location if the 242 location doesn't have a jack installed and there isn't a resistor installed due to no PIP on this model.

EDIT2: Ok found the value for that resistor in the part list:

3223 Res, 100 ohm, 5%, 1/10W, Metallized Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3198 021 51010

And I see there's seperate part list for each model. My model (27PS50) does not have this resistor listed so...yeah probably not installed on this board.

[DrZhark]

first of all thanks for all the pioneers for your great help.

I've just tried modding my Sony KV-27FS100, and it worked but there is an issue that's driving me nuts, I'm hoping someone can help me figure it out.

The sony KV-27FS100 has the well known Jungle IC CXA2154/5AS

https://i.imgur.com/N2dxf78.png

So I added SCART connector with 75 Ohm to ground and 0.1uf (104) capacitors then ran the RGB cables to a 4PDT switch,
on the TV, I lifted pins 40 (YS2/YM), 41 (B-IN), 42(G-IN) and 43 (R-IN) and connected them to the middle of the 4PDT switch, and ran four cables to where those IC pins were connected on the board and plugged them to the other side of the 4PDT switch.

for blanking, I connected a 5Volt from the main TV board to the remaining pin of the 4PDT switch (that connects to pin 40 of the IC switch).

I also connected the ground from the SCART to a ground PIN on the TV mainboard.

finally, connected CSYNC to luma and Audio L and Audio R to the SVIDEO (Video1) input on the TV

and it works, I can use the switch to active the OSD or the RGB in, there is a very good quality video on Video1.





However, the right third of the screen is lighter than the rest. This only happens when I use the RGB in, it is completely normal if I use S-VIDEO, composite video or Component video.


I tried disconnecting the Audio lines (no difference), disconnecting ground from the SCART (no image)...

I'm wondering if the issue is due to the blanking? I'm connecting 5v directly (no resistors). any ideas? Thanks in advance!

[MarkOZLAD]

I think you will need to find a way to get the YUV0/YUV1 switch in the TDA95xx chip to change. Thinking it might be possible to change the option settings in the service menu. Which bit to change I have no idea. Maybe if you can work out which models had Scart and learn from their option settings.

[DrZhark]

I think you will need to find a way to get the YUV0/YUV1 switch in the TDA95xx chip to change. Thinking it might be possible to change the option settings in the service menu. Which bit to change I have no idea. Maybe if you can work out which models had Scart and learn from their option settings.

edita: I just realized MarkOZLAD was answering another post....

hopefully someone can shed some light into my issue

[Apache Thunder]

Unfortunately the Sony TV arrived damaged. The CRT did not survive. Neckboard broke off taking the neck with it. Tube came off the frame it looks like.

I guess I won't be modding this one.

Will return this and try again with another.

EDIT: The good news is, the seller was nice and didn't ask for me to ship it back. So I didn't lose anything with this one.

I would bet had the seller used the Parcel Select option (which is a ground only shipping method) it might have survived. Priority Mail always uses aircraft to transport them I believe (unless the destination is like super close to the shipper) and they can encounter some nasty turblance sometimes. I bet that's what killed this one. Though doesn't excuse the seller for using poor choice of packing materials. He only used a few layers of bubble wrap, a bunch of newspaper and packing peanuts. Needless to say that is not adequate to ship something like this. My 12 inch B&W TV survived mainly because it was shipped with it's original box and styraphone inserts (and it's box was also shipped with additional packing materials inside a larger box) And even that TV didn't come home unscathed. Had a plastic cover to a large inductor pop off. Didn't seem to impact the TV though. Seems to operate like it was designed.

I'd seek out TVs in their original box but something tells me that will be an expensive way of getting one. God I hate this town. Ain't nothing here. Pretty much have to get this stuff of eBay and it sucks.

As for my Philips TV....Hmm yes option byte code change could trigger RGB with this one. I recall accidentally reseting option bytes to the incorrect one and lost CVI input entirly. (It would no longer switch to it). Set the correct option bytes back and input became available again. List of models this manual was applicable for:

T8 Option Byte Codes
MODEL OPTION BYTES
OP1 OP2 OP3 OP4 OP5 OP6 OP7
20RF40 S321 * NOT AVAILABLE
20RF40 S325 * NOT AVAILABLE
20RF50 S321 0 23 129 162 252 152 0
20RF50 S325 0 23 129 162 252 152 0
21PT63 9A85 * NOT AVAILABLE
21PT83 9B85 * NOT AVAILABLE
25PS40 S321 0 23 1 1 144 153 0
25PS40 S325 0 23 1 1 144 153 0
25PS50 S321 0 23 1 162 252 152 0
26LL50 0131 16 23 1 1 144 153 0
26LW50 2231 16 23 1 162 252 152 0
27PS50 B321 0 23 1 162 252 152 0
27PS55 S321 0 23 1 162 252 152 0
27PS60 S321 0 23 1 162 253 152 0
27RF50 S325 0 23 129 162 252 152 0
27RF72 S325 * NOT AVAILABLE
29LL60 0131 16 23 1 162 252 152 0
29LW60 2231 16 23 1 162 252 152 0
29PV70 2235 16 23 129 162 252 152 0
32PS55 S321 0 23 129 162 252 152 0
32PS60 B321 0 23 129 162 253 152 0
32PS61 S321 0 23 129 162 253 152 0
33LL80 1131 0 23 129 162 253 152 0
CH0119 C322 133 16 2 132 0 - -
CH0127 C321 213 18 2 64 0 - -
MS2530 C321 0 5 0 10 192 9 0
HC0113 C321 1 16 148 148 0 - -
HC0119 C322 1 16 148 148 0 - -
MS2530 C325 0 5 0 10 192 9 0
MS2730 C321 0 5 0 1 192 9 0


Though these might all be North America models. I could look on the internet for the IC this TV uses instead and see if I can find similar service manuals for TVs that use this chip. They may also list option bytes for those TVs that may have the effect I want on this TV.

EDIT: Good news I found a model that uses this chip that had SCART (and RGB hookups? It's also labeled YUV on the schematic but I bet it's in RGB mode on the chip).

EDIT2: Seems like it no longer switches to CVI mode now. Maybe it's expecting RGB but it would seem like it should attempt to display something. I do hear audio from the Wii when I select AV1. I suppose I can try wiring the Genesis's RGB lines back to the TV.

EDIT3: Currently given up on plans for doing a RGB mod for the Phillips TV. Gonna mod my KV13TR24 instead. (managed to get a working one now. Long story, made a thread about it. )

[lukilla]

...

It seems you should use 0.1 uf for the red and .01 uf caps for the green and blue.

[DrZhark]

...

It seems you should use 0.1 uf for the red and .01 uf caps for the green and blue.

that was it!!! Replaced green and blue with 0.01 uf (103) capacitors, left the red with 0.1 uf (104) and it works perfect. Now I have a gorgeous consumer CRT with RGB in, that looks better than my PVM 2530

Thanks a lot.

[Apache Thunder]

[DELETED] Decided to post a thread dedicated to this. (neckboard RGB mod. The little talked about last resort method. )

[xodaraP]

Hi guys,
I like a few other people have a Panasonic TV that doesn't seem to want to go into RGB mode using the fast blanking pin on the jungle IC. I can get it to flicker if I adjust the pot in component mode but nothing comes through so I suspect it reverts to composite.

Model number is TX-29FJ50A - Australian model

Has anyone worked out a solution for these yet? I would love to have RGB on it as the YUV is already a spectacular image, RGB would be even nicer. I know @evilsim has a 21" version of these he was working on but I don't know if he ever figured it out

I've got a scart socket coming so I'm happy to install that and wire it in assuming it can be done, alternatively if it can't I'll just get a RGB YUV converter and live with it, I've got a Sanyo here with only a composite input that will hopefully be an easier mod and it's begging for RGB

Thanks in advance

[xodaraP]

Edit: Double post

[xodaraP]

I have a Sanyo TV CP21CE1 running a LA76931AD Jungle IC - I've spoken to MarkOZLad and he has said this Jungle IC is component only (component is not connected and there are no sockets on my TV, nor S-Video which the Jungle also seems to support) so an option is there to install component if RGB can't be achieved.

I haven't been able to find a decent datasheet for the Jungle IC, however all the details needed are in the service manual for the TV. The OSD seems to be generated by the Jungle itself and is output via RGB through pins 12, 13 and 14. Pin 11 is the blanking pin and is activated by a 9V signal (active high)

Would it be possible to pull or cut the RGB output pins at 12, 13 and 14 and inject my signal to these, and hook up a switch to send a 9V signal from somewhere to pin 11 to activate the blanking signal? Pin 19 seems like it might be a good candidate for that.

The main issue I have is that I think these pins go directly to the neckboard, so I am going to have to make a circuit to give me the correct voltages on these pins (which I have now found out is 3v)

i have also found out that the blanking voltage on pin 11 is 8v - and the helpful manual here: http://www.ndatasheet.com/datasheet-fra ... id=1032337

Tells me that to achieve this, I need to connect an 8.2 ohm resistor to the line along with the 9V signal.

Has anyone modded a TV with one of these Jungle ICs or similar?

If it's in no way possible to mod this set (which would leave me 0/2 on CRTs I own haha) then I will install a set of component inputs instead and see what the image is like through a RGB/YUV converter. The composite image isn't terrible so I'd imagine component (or even S-Video) might be a good option. But RGB is definitely the ideal solution.

I'm thinking (and if someone can tell me if I'm wrong) that I should be able to set up a switch with 4 wires coming off of it for RGB/Vcc for the blanking pin and I can inject sync onto the unused component sync pin

Could I use the same/another 9v signal split into 3 to achieve the 3v signals necessary for my RGB output signals?

[fandangos]

first of all thanks for all the pioneers for your great help.

I've just tried modding my Sony KV-27FS100, and it worked but there is an issue that's driving me nuts, I'm hoping someone can help me figure it out.

The sony KV-27FS100 has the well known Jungle IC CXA2154/5AS

https://i.imgur.com/N2dxf78.png

So I added SCART connector with 75 Ohm to ground and 0.1uf (104) capacitors then ran the RGB cables to a 4PDT switch,
on the TV, I lifted pins 40 (YS2/YM), 41 (B-IN), 42(G-IN) and 43 (R-IN) and connected them to the middle of the 4PDT switch, and ran four cables to where those IC pins were connected on the board and plugged them to the other side of the 4PDT switch.

for blanking, I connected a 5Volt from the main TV board to the remaining pin of the 4PDT switch (that connects to pin 40 of the IC switch).

I also connected the ground from the SCART to a ground PIN on the TV mainboard.

finally, connected CSYNC to luma and Audio L and Audio R to the SVIDEO (Video1) input on the TV

and it works, I can use the switch to active the OSD or the RGB in, there is a very good quality video on Video1.





However, the right third of the screen is lighter than the rest. This only happens when I use the RGB in, it is completely normal if I use S-VIDEO, composite video or Component video.


I tried disconnecting the Audio lines (no difference), disconnecting ground from the SCART (no image)...

I'm wondering if the issue is due to the blanking? I'm connecting 5v directly (no resistors). any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Had this EXACT same problem. Move your cables away from the flyback.

EDIT: just noticed you solved your problem. Well, i'll leave my answer here because it was what fixed it for me.

[DrZhark]

I'm at it again with another tv set... this seems addictive am I right?

so I'm getting my hands on a HDTV CRT, the Sony KV-30XBR910. This set has component, composite, S-Video and DVI In


The KV-30XBR910 the service manual can be found here:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/849 ... br910.html

I was browsing it, and I found a juggler IC CXA2170Q that apparently feeds the neck, and has component in and OSD in, and outputs RGB, so it seems like the good candidate to try and inject RGB




there is even a nearby connector that has the OSD RGB in lines:



Before I attempt to mod this TV, I was wondering if it would be easier to use an RGB to DVI converter? like an Extron... However I have no experience with them. any thoughts about it?

Now for modding the tv, it seems there are OSD H sync and V sync lines in.... would I have to split c-sync into H and V sync for this? Or could I use the usual method (just plugging sync to a luma input?)

the final question is that I"m not really sure which one would be the OSD blanking pin of that IC

I appreciate your help!

[Syntax]

Its right there, OSD YSYM.
Modding 100hz tvs is usually a pain, look forward to your results.

[BobWoggle]

hey guys, quick question about tim's vga2arc board (the basic dc coupled one) for neck mods: do I need 12v? can I modify the circuit to run on 9 or even 5? if so, how would I do this? The sets I'm working on at the moment don't seem to have 12v just lying around and I'd rather not use an external power supply.

Thanks in advance.

[devicemodder]

How would I go about adding RGB to a TV without an OSD?

I would like to possibly RGB mod my JVC TM-9U (CV). I know about the method involving the jungle IC and an OSD on most sets, but mine has all analog controls and no OSD along with one composite video port.

So, would it be possible to RGB mod my set?

thanks in advance.

[DrZhark]

Its right there, OSD YSYM.
Modding 100hz tvs is usually a pain, look forward to your results.

on second thought, I'm going to leave the tv as is and use an OSSC to feed HDMI in.

[Syntax]

How are you going to feed HDMI into analogue 31k RGBHV?

Your probably better of trying to put your systems through a GBS.

[DrZhark]

How are you going to feed HDMI into analogue 31k RGBHV?

Your probably better of trying to put your systems through a GBS.

I may be mistaken. The KVS 30XBR910 has a DVI-D input. The OSSC has a DVI-D output (on version 1.5) and HDMI output on version 1.6

I still don't have an OSSC, but my plan is to use the OSSC HDMI output, and plug it into the DVI-D input of the XBR with the help of a HDMI to DVI-D adaptor.

[Syntax]

My understanding is it's just vga via rca.

I know a GBS will work for it.

EDIT ** Was looking at the wrong set, you are correct.

[lukilla]

hey guys, quick question about tim's vga2arc board (the basic dc coupled one) for neck mods: do I need 12v? can I modify the circuit to run on 9 or even 5? if so, how would I do this? The sets I'm working on at the moment don't seem to have 12v just lying around and I'd rather not use an external power supply.

Thanks in advance.

I´d say so, put 1k pots instead of the r2, r6, r10 and r14 adjusted to the original values and tweak until you get a good picture, once done and if it works replace at least the r14 with matching typical resistors because the pot probably wont be able to disipate the voltage and fail or vary once it gets hot. Also put at least 150 ohm resistors on rgb output, if the picture is too bright or collapses put something like 1 kohm.

[Bratwurst]

I had the most backward jungle IC yesterday, ended up throwing the set out.
CENTREX
Jungle SANYO LA76810A

R - 14
G - 15
B - 16
Blanking - 17 (3v)

PDF schematic has an odd setup for RGB input, wants the signal clamped THEN terminated with a 1k resistor.
The jungle will not accept any clamped signal though, 3 different values and 3 different types of caps used, none will get signal through.
Looks at OSD and its just going through a 4.7k resistor on each color line, no terminations or caps...
Terminated with 75ohm resistors the picture is too dark..
So I put a 1k pot on the tail end of my 75ohm resistors which should of in theory made the picture darker as I increase the termination resistance.
As I increase the resistance it gets BRIGHTER!

I removed the termination resistors and put a triple gang 1k pot in its place. Its effectively a brightness knob now.
Connecting it directly to the jungle results in a black screen that you can turn up to white.
Since when do direct terminations with no signal feed make a white screen??
The Jungles internal channels were blue pink and yellow when you terminate 2 so you can see 1.
Internal color channels... WTF
Its like the whole Peak to Peak reading of the color channels is inverted logic or something.

I threw the set away though because I couldn't get definition in the RGB picture, The black levels were all whack I think.
That and the 4pdt and scart connectors worth more.
Literally the most backwards Jungle ive ever worked on, Centrex must of wired so wrong but I didn't have the time to check it further.
I did get RGB out of it so ill call it a draw.

I've got a Sanyo that does something similar - when fed sync, blanking and red only, no G or B, the screen comes up as a pale aqua colour, very washed out. Adding G and B in as well makes a normal, clear, colour-correct picture. Without caps and terminations you pretty much get nothing. No idea what's happening there, but i don't think i've crossed any wires.

I have a Sharp 25C340 giving me trouble, jungle is IX3354CE which is basically a Sanyo LA76843N and it's behaving almost exactly like the above quoted!

I have a 20k pot wired into blanking (5 volt and ground on either end, blanking out from wiper) and I can trigger the screen to go from a monochrome luma image to pure white, not a single bit of color from the RGB lines. Each line is going through a 104 cap and 75-ohm terminated, but the original configuration of the chassis just has 6.8k resistors between the ODS chip and jungle for RGB and blanking! No caps at all. The datasheet is not very helpful as it shows caps, but no value, and they are definitely not in the schematics for this Sharp: 25C340, pages 14 & 15.

When I clip around the red supply 104 cap the blanked screen shifts from white to pale aqua.

I just took the chassis out to check my wiring (and this is after I had double checked everything in the first place) and it technically all looks good.

EDIT: I think I've figured it out, the jungle is probably expecting YCbCr for OSD which is digital. There's still no decent datasheet that I can find BUT I found this trade catalog that says as much.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/14872 ... =13#manual

[Self_Control_Me]

content://media/external/file/11423

hello all, can anyone see the above jungle ic pic? This is the chip in a KV-36FS210 and would like to rgb mod it, can someone tell me where to start?

i have a bunch of rgb modded consoles plugged into a hydra 8 port and the output scart cable has an lm1881 sync stripper in it. some consoles output sync over composite and some over luma. will that matter?

[MarkOZLAD]

From my experience the LA76810A is generally locked via internal registers to expect 1.0Vp-p RGB via it's OSD pins. (It calls this Digital OSD mode)

I am working on using Tim's TV Bus Manipulator to unlock the registers via OSD (to allow 0.7Vp-p RGB) but I have been sidetracked on other projects.

There are plenty of LA76810A and LA76818 datasheets on the net. Check out the LA76818 application note pdf for more details.

[Bratwurst]

I suspect there's something about Sharp and Sanyo sets in general expecting inverted signals, the arcade monitors for the Nintendo games like Donkey Kong for example, are Sanyo. You try to run any other game and you get this:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showth ... p?t=254523

[noobola]

New user, been lurking this thread for a few days. I have a 25 inch Sanyo that has been barely used that I would like to add RGB to, it only has RF at this point. I have found the following documentation for it, or something very close to it:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/17353/

and here is a picture of the label on the back:



Does anyone have any idea how big of a pain it would be to add rgb to this tv based on the pdf and the label? What should I be looking for in the service manuel specifically?