Questions that do not deserve a thread

[chuckster]

You guys were right though, it was the PS2 set to RGB, setting it back to YPbPr eliminated the need for Ext. Sync and RGB. But I guess what I'm saying is if you have a PVM and a component cable including a separate composite cable, it will work with RGB with the composite on the Ext. Sync input. Or at least this one did in this case.

This is fascinating to me. This would imply that you can get RGB out of a PS2 with any of these third-party Component+Composite cables by using the composite video for external sync; didn't think of this before.

Just interesting since it seems known that PS2 component is slightly noisy compared to RGB. I don't have an extra pair of PS2 RGB cables, but I do have one of these third parties.

Yeah, it just puzzled me when throwing that cable onto sync and switching over to RGB worked. FWIW though, I noticed no difference switching between component and RGB on my PVM, in IQ or brightness. Of course, it is a pretty cheap cable.

What really interests me is how easy it was to make the switch. Is this possible with any other system, converting RGB to component with no external conversion?

[Einzelherz]

You guys were right though, it was the PS2 set to RGB, setting it back to YPbPr eliminated the need for Ext. Sync and RGB. But I guess what I'm saying is if you have a PVM and a component cable including a separate composite cable, it will work with RGB with the composite on the Ext. Sync input. Or at least this one did in this case.

This is fascinating to me. This would imply that you can get RGB out of a PS2 with any of these third-party Component+Composite cables by using the composite video for external sync; didn't think of this before.

Just interesting since it seems known that PS2 component is slightly noisy compared to RGB. I don't have an extra pair of PS2 RGB cables, but I do have one of these third parties.

I do this, albeit with a guncon breakout adapter for the composite sync channel. Works great but on a CRT you're less likely to notice any difference between component and RGB, anyway. I mostly use the setup for my PS1.

[korpse413]

Anyone here replace the IDE drives of their Phat PS2 / OG Xboxes with an SD card solution? I figure one would use one of these? I'd imagine since its getting power over the IDE line that it might pose problems?

Just curious if anyone has done this for their system. My next system to move to is the OG Xbox and I figure when I check out the innards for possible battery leakage I might as well get rid of moving parts with a solid state solution..

[bobrocks95]

Hmm, what battery is in the Xbox to leak? I believe it uses a supercapacitor for clock and system settings instead of a battery.

[Guspaz]

Through-hole supercapacitors are virtually identical to electrolytic capacitors from a physical standpoint: they can leak all the same.

[vol.2]

You guys were right though, it was the PS2 set to RGB, setting it back to YPbPr eliminated the need for Ext. Sync and RGB. But I guess what I'm saying is if you have a PVM and a component cable including a separate composite cable, it will work with RGB with the composite on the Ext. Sync input. Or at least this one did in this case.

This is fascinating to me. This would imply that you can get RGB out of a PS2 with any of these third-party Component+Composite cables by using the composite video for external sync; didn't think of this before.

Just interesting since it seems known that PS2 component is slightly noisy compared to RGB. I don't have an extra pair of PS2 RGB cables, but I do have one of these third parties.

Yeah, it just puzzled me when throwing that cable onto sync and switching over to RGB worked. FWIW though, I noticed no difference switching between component and RGB on my PVM, in IQ or brightness. Of course, it is a pretty cheap cable.

What really interests me is how easy it was to make the switch. Is this possible with any other system, converting RGB to component with no external conversion?

So, you can google the pinouts of the other systems represented by your multi cable and figure it out. You just need to count the pin numbers to see which signal is carried on each pin.

In the case of PlayStation, blue is the same pin as Pb and red is the same as Pr, and green is the same as luma. That, and composite already has sync in it. So, voila.

[vol.2]

Anyone here replace the IDE drives of their Phat PS2 / OG Xboxes with an SD card solution? I figure one would use one of these? I'd imagine since its getting power over the IDE line that it might pose problems?

Just curious if anyone has done this for their system. My next system to move to is the OG Xbox and I figure when I check out the innards for possible battery leakage I might as well get rid of moving parts with a solid state solution..

So, I thought about this a few months ago and discovered that there really isn't any benefit to SSD in og Xbox. I believe that there were some reasons to not do it, like the lack of garbage collection. You'd have to get an older one with garbage collection on the controller. If you read the articles on anandtech.com about the birth of SSD, specifically the controllers, they explain. As time has gone by and operating systems have become SSD aware, they are able to treat them correctly.
Also, mechanical HDD is fast enough for the xbox, you most likely won't see a diff.

[Guspaz]

You can still buy new IDE hard drives today, with NewEgg selling up to 750GB models. 500GB goes for $70 USD, 750GB goes for $117.

An IDE-to-SATA adapter can also be used, allowing up to a 2TB drive, although not every adapter works.

The only reason I could see to using an SD card is to cut down on noise, because even if you could get the SD card adapter working, it's going to give you a tiny amount of storage space compared to an HDD.

[Ikaruga11]

Can you calibrate handhelds?

[awe444]

Anyone here replace the IDE drives of their Phat PS2 / OG Xboxes with an SD card solution? I figure one would use one of these? I'd imagine since its getting power over the IDE line that it might pose problems?

I bought the exact same SD to IDE adapter you linked and I can confirm that it works great with my PS2 (using with a 128gb SanDisk SD card). You'll also want to get the following to install it fully:

2.5-inch-to-3.5-inch adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E ... UTF8&psc=1

extension cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZ ... UTF8&psc=1

Without the extension cable, you'll find there isn't room for the black & red power lines (actually, the black plastic connector at the end of them) to connect to the 2.5-to-3.5 adapter given the shape of the PS2 HDD unit. You can avoid using the extension cable by e.g. soldering the lines directly or physically modifying the black connector's shape/size.

[korpse413]

Anyone here replace the IDE drives of their Phat PS2 / OG Xboxes with an SD card solution? I figure one would use one of these? I'd imagine since its getting power over the IDE line that it might pose problems?

I bought the exact same SD to IDE adapter you linked and I can confirm that it works great with my PS2 (using with a 128gb SanDisk SD card). You'll also want to get the following to install it fully:

2.5-inch-to-3.5-inch adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E ... UTF8&psc=1

extension cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZ ... UTF8&psc=1

Without the extension cable, you'll find there isn't room for the black & red power lines (actually, the black plastic connector at the end of them) to connect to the 2.5-to-3.5 adapter given the shape of the PS2 HDD unit. You can avoid using the extension cable by e.g. soldering the lines directly or physically modifying the black connector's shape/size.

Fantastic, this is what I was hoping to hear! Thank you for the confirmation

I will report back with any success with these materials on my Xbox, but I imagine there will be.

[Einzelherz]

Does anyone know of any multi AV receiver/switch that has component that came in black instead of silver? I know of the Sony ones in silver but I hoped there might be some from before that fad.

[vol.2]

Does anyone know of any multi AV receiver/switch that has component that came in black instead of silver? I know of the Sony ones in silver but I hoped there might be some from before that fad.

Onkyo. You are looking for AV recievers I take it? Many did.
Pioneer did as well. I also have a few Sony receivers from the 90's in black. The ES ones being the nicest. Also Denon, they came in black.

Newer ones I think Onkyo is a good option. They went to black after the silver ones. My dad picked up a black Onkyo like a year or two ago, sounds and looks great. It even has digital passthrough on the zone 2 speakers, something earlier models did not have.

[chuckster]

Ok, three questions:

1. What is the best way to convert component to S-video? I am finding no converters on my initial searches, and a device like this would make my testing setup I have planned much easier.

2. Is there any device that accepts a component input and can output the same signal in S-vid and component simultaneously? I have some S-vid only monitors I really like and would like a way to compare and test in real time. I suppose the cost of an extra Wii and cables is low enough to cover this part, but it would be much cleaner to have a switch that could output both S-vid and component from the same component source.

I am trying to keep everything component in my setup if possible, due to convenience. Part of that plan was the HD Retrovision cables for SNES and Genesis. They seem to be out of stock until spring and have said that prices will be higher on the next batch. This would likely make each set of cables $60-70 at least. That is much higher (for both) than SCART cables for both systems and a BNC breakout. The only issue with the latter is switching. So...

3. Can you recommend a switch that can handle component, s-video, and RGB? I'm looking into Extron Crosspoints and they seem to fit the bill, but there are so many models it is confusing. Some models state they support everything from composite to HDMI but I only see RGBHV connections. Also, are those smaller connectors on the bottom of some models for speakers?

TL;DR

Are there any Component>S-video converters out there you recommend?

Can any device take in Component and output the same signal in S-vid and Component at the same time?

Are there any recommended Crosspoint models for 8 or so inputs with support for S-video, component and RGB?

[MetalMilitia]

Not sure about your first 2 questions, but most Crosspoint 300 series will accept RGB, S-Video, and YPbPr. Just be aware that you will need to output the same signal that you input. The Crosspoint does not transcode the signal.

Also, why are you trying to change to S-Video? You should be able to find tons of free CRTs that accept component video.

[chuckster]

Thanks for the Crosspoint info. I did find some (expensive) options to convert the signal, I suppose it would be the easiest to just place that in the chain after the Crosspoint. So just to be clear, the Crosspoint just acts as a huge switch, right? I can take RGB in from a Genesis, S-video from a 64, and component from a PS2 and route all that to one screen (given the adequate inputs), as well as split those to multiple screens?

EDIT: Also, how does the audio hook up to these Crosspoint units? Or should I get a separate Audio solution?

That's definitely a good point on the S-video question. My reasoning is that I have several screens that only take up to S-video, and I like the unique look some of them have compared to my RGB and component sets. The goal is to have these S-video sets hooked up with the RGB/Component PVMs and CRTs I have for easy comparison and for when I just feel like playing on those particular sets, without having to get in behind the setup and change out cables.

[lechu]

I have an Extron Crosspoint 300 42 HVA switcher. It has absolutely no power when plugged in. All the caps look fine. When I plug it in, I hear a bit of humming (I think it's from the internal power). When I took off the case and plugged it in, I was afraid it was going to blow up with the noise. No clue where to go with it.

[Einzelherz]

Does anyone know of any multi AV receiver/switch that has component that came in black instead of silver? I know of the Sony ones in silver but I hoped there might be some from before that fad.

Onkyo. You are looking for AV recievers I take it? Many did.
Pioneer did as well. I also have a few Sony receivers from the 90's in black. The ES ones being the nicest. Also Denon, they came in black.

Newer ones I think Onkyo is a good option. They went to black after the silver ones. My dad picked up a black Onkyo like a year or two ago, sounds and looks great. It even has digital passthrough on the zone 2 speakers, something earlier models did not have.

Ty for the info. I have a related question that maybe you or someone else could answer: should the composite in and component in, if they're on the same input, transmit together? I.e. could you use all six channels at once?

[Chomolonzo]

Thanks for the Crosspoint info. I did find some (expensive) options to convert the signal, I suppose it would be the easiest to just place that in the chain after the Crosspoint. So just to be clear, the Crosspoint just acts as a huge switch, right? I can take RGB in from a Genesis, S-video from a 64, and component from a PS2 and route all that to one screen (given the adequate inputs), as well as split those to multiple screens?

EDIT: Also, how does the audio hook up to these Crosspoint units? Or should I get a separate Audio solution?

That's definitely a good point on the S-video question. My reasoning is that I have several screens that only take up to S-video, and I like the unique look some of them have compared to my RGB and component sets. The goal is to have these S-video sets hooked up with the RGB/Component PVMs and CRTs I have for easy comparison and for when I just feel like playing on those particular sets, without having to get in behind the setup and change out cables.

The Crosspoints, in most cases, use Phoenix/Euroblock connectors in a long strip underneath the video inputs. I've only really seen them on the Crosspoint units. I contemplated getting some other kind of audio solution for my consoles, but in the end I just bought a bunch of female RCA cables for like a dollar each, cut one end off, and just wired the loose wires into some Phoenix/Euroblock heads. Took an hour or two to wire up ten or so, but it cost me literally ten dollars. Also, you don't need to solder anything. Pretty much all Phoenix/Euroblock heads use little screw clamps. Stick the wire in, twist the screw, and it pinches shut on the wire and holds it in place.

The Crosspoint is also a huge switch, yes. Plug whatever in there (usually as long as you can cap whatever you're plugging into it with a BNC plug). It'll take all manner of RGB and component etc., BUT your RGB must have CSYNC going INTO the Crosspoint. What that means is you'll have to have whatever cables you're using outputting CSYNC, whether it comes straight from the console, or if the cable has a built-in sync stripper. My PAL SNES, for example, outputs RGB with sync-on-luma, I believe. The RGB SCART cable comes out of the SNES, plugs into a SCART to BNC cable (with included audio breakouts) which has an inbuilt sync stripper to provide CSYNC to the Crosspoint. Component is fine because it uses sync on green or whatever, and the Crosspoint can handle that. Just plug those straight in using those little RCA-BNC caps.

[Chomolonzo]

Okay, I'm about to get my PAL N64 back after being modded with Tim Worthington's N64RGB mod. Hopefully it works after my buddy had a crack at it (against my better judgement) and failed to get it working. Now, it'll be outputting raw sync, I believe (connected to the CS# TTL pin) straight from the mod board, so I just want to make sure exactly which cable I should get. The J1, J2, J3 jumpers are all currently open as well.

Just to be clear, it'll be a PAL N64 outputting raw (again, I think) sync. Also, I'll need a BNC converter cable. Should I get one with a sync stripper, or one without?

This one: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... SYNC-CSYNC

this: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... le-dol-013

or this one: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... d-for-sale

or even the NTSC SNES one: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... -wire-cord

[chuckster]

The Crosspoints, in most cases, use Phoenix/Euroblock connectors in a long strip underneath the video inputs. I've only really seen them on the Crosspoint units. I contemplated getting some other kind of audio solution for my consoles, but in the end I just bought a bunch of female RCA cables for like a dollar each, cut one end off, and just wired the loose wires into some Phoenix/Euroblock heads. Took an hour or two to wire up ten or so, but it cost me literally ten dollars. Also, you don't need to solder anything. Pretty much all Phoenix/Euroblock heads use little screw clamps. Stick the wire in, twist the screw, and it pinches shut on the wire and holds it in place.

The Crosspoint is also a huge switch, yes. Plug whatever in there (usually as long as you can cap whatever you're plugging into it with a BNC plug). It'll take all manner of RGB and component etc., BUT your RGB must have CSYNC going INTO the Crosspoint. What that means is you'll have to have whatever cables you're using outputting CSYNC, whether it comes straight from the console, or if the cable has a built-in sync stripper. My PAL SNES, for example, outputs RGB with sync-on-luma, I believe. The RGB SCART cable comes out of the SNES, plugs into a SCART to BNC cable (with included audio breakouts) which has an inbuilt sync stripper to provide CSYNC to the Crosspoint. Component is fine because it uses sync on green or whatever, and the Crosspoint can handle that. Just plug those straight in using those little RCA-BNC caps.

Wow, thanks for that, I had no clue about C-Sync and I will have to keep that in mind, now that I am looking at RGB over component on the SNES and Genesis. I will probably just get an audio switch separately though, the wiring up those Euroblocks seems like a job I would start and never finish.

Along these lines, is there a good way to get Component and RGB into a PVM (without the extra inputs on medical models)? I'd hate to have to switch the cables around behind the set each time I wanted to go from 16 bit to 32+, since my Wii and PS2 (which is also my PS1) are component.

[Chomolonzo]

Wow, thanks for that, I had no clue about C-Sync and I will have to keep that in mind, now that I am looking at RGB over component on the SNES and Genesis. I will probably just get an audio switch separately though, the wiring up those Euroblocks seems like a job I would start and never finish.

Along these lines, is there a good way to get Component and RGB into a PVM (without the extra inputs on medical models)? I'd hate to have to switch the cables around behind the set each time I wanted to go from 16 bit to 32+, since my Wii and PS2 (which is also my PS1) are component.

You should be fine plugging all your gear into a crosspoint and then having something like this: http://www.123inkcartridges.ca/p-313752 ... -monoprice

Coming out of the crosspoint's output and into the back of the PVM. That'll give you the four lines you need for RGB and Sync. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but component will be fine because it'll just disregard the sync line and use the three lines it needs.

I'm not sure how your PVM handles things, but my A series BVM needs you to set which signal you're using - RGB or Component - otherwise the colours are all messed up. I can save settings to different "channels" though, so I just turn my console on, select the right input/output on the crosspoint, and switch the BVM to the right channel with RGB or Comppnent saved as the input signal. In theory, anyway. I don't have the cable to connect my BVM and crosspoint yet because the only place in Australia that sells those 4-head BNC cables for less than a hojillion dollars takes WEEKS AND WEEKS to get them back in stock.

[vol.2]

Does anyone know of any multi AV receiver/switch that has component that came in black instead of silver? I know of the Sony ones in silver but I hoped there might be some from before that fad.

Onkyo. You are looking for AV recievers I take it? Many did.
Pioneer did as well. I also have a few Sony receivers from the 90's in black. The ES ones being the nicest. Also Denon, they came in black.

Newer ones I think Onkyo is a good option. They went to black after the silver ones. My dad picked up a black Onkyo like a year or two ago, sounds and looks great. It even has digital passthrough on the zone 2 speakers, something earlier models did not have.

Ty for the info. I have a related question that maybe you or someone else could answer: should the composite in and component in, if they're on the same input, transmit together? I.e. could you use all six channels at once?

I've never actually tried it out, but I would be really shocked if that worked. Looking at both the denon and the sony i have in the basement and also an image of a newer denon with a component input, none of them seem to even have both options on the same channel. The older units only have component as an option on those channels, and the newer Denon seems to have floating component inputs that must be assigned to a specific input # via an on-screen menu. Doing a quick search, I didn't find anything that has both on a specific input, but if you did manage to find one, I seriously doubt you can double-up on channel resources. Not really sure why you'd want to? If you need to run channels concurrently, There are some Sony's, and probably others, that have zone 2 out with a composite video. You could double-team the zone 2 output with a component source on zone 1. That's top of the line $$ to get that function though. It may take a little time to locate such a machine at a reasonable price, and needing black will make it harder.

[Ikaruga11]

Does the memory size of an SD Card affect load times? I want the fastest possible load times on my New 3DS.

I currently use a 32GB Class 10 SDHC micro SD card. If I were to switch to a 2GB Class 10 micro SD card of the same brand and transfer speed, would games load faster since there's less memory to access?

I heard formatting an SD card with 64K of allocation units is the fastest option for the New 3DS?

[Einzelherz]

Ty for the info. I have a related question that maybe you or someone else could answer: should the composite in and component in, if they're on the same input, transmit together? I.e. could you use all six channels at once?

I've never actually tried it out, but I would be really shocked if that worked. Looking at both the denon and the sony i have in the basement and also an image of a newer denon with a component input, none of them seem to even have both options on the same channel. The older units only have component as an option on those channels, and the newer Denon seems to have floating component inputs that must be assigned to a specific input # via an on-screen menu. Doing a quick search, I didn't find anything that has both on a specific input, but if you did manage to find one, I seriously doubt you can double-up on channel resources. Not really sure why you'd want to? If you need to run channels concurrently, There are some Sony's, and probably others, that have zone 2 out with a composite video. You could double-team the zone 2 output with a component source on zone 1. That's top of the line $$ to get that function though. It may take a little time to locate such a machine at a reasonable price, and needing black will make it harder.

Well the reason is that RGB requires six channels including audio. There are some passive switches that let you get away with this - running the sync line through composite - and I thought it'd be nice to have an all in one AV receiver that could accomplish it. I figure it shouldn't be too hard to test with a voltmeter if I find one in a thrift store.

[bobrocks95]

Does the memory size of an SD Card affect load times? I want the fastest possible load times on my New 3DS.

I currently use a 32GB Class 10 SDHC micro SD card. If I were to switch to a 2GB Class 10 micro SD card of the same brand and transfer speed, would games load faster since there's less memory to access?

I heard formatting an SD card with 64K of allocation units is the fastest option for the New 3DS?

The class 10 is the speed rating, size isn't important. There are faster cards too btw, though the New 3DS can't utilize their speed, I'm guessing due to a bandwidth limitation.

I think I used 64K, 32K should be fine too. It's not as important as some people make it sound.

[chuckster]

Is the only place to source console to BNC cables the Retro Console Accessories store on Ebay?

[Einzelherz]

Scart to bnc was never a standard thing so eBay is the best place to get them. I thought it was a different vendor though.

[vol.2]

It's wookieewin.

Retro cables is the UK webstore.

He might be asking about console to BNC direct though.

Chuck, people don't sell those because scart cables were made officially by console manufacturers. It's usually console to scart and then scart to BNC if that's what you need. I use DB25 instead for example.

[chuckster]

I figured as much, it's just rough paying for a good SCART switch or SCART>BNC cables for each console. It far outweighs the cost of the hardware in most cases.