XRGB-mini Framemeister

[aov]

Hi!
I have trouble with my xrgb mini.

I played ps3 connected via xrgb mini to my dvi monitor a month ago. At the one moment the screen went black. After that I can't get work xrgb mini with my dvi monitor.

I connect xrgb to my tv. Before this moment all hdmi modes works fine on my tv. Now 480_60p works sometimes good sometimes with artifacts. Other modes don't work or works with artifacts.
I got this result:
480_60p sometimes works correct
720_60p not working
1080_60i not working
1080_60p works with a lot of artifacts
576_50p works with artifacts
720_50p works with artifacts
1080_50i not working
1080_50p works with a lot of artifacts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkU1c12r ... e=youtu.be
If you don't want view all video go to 4:00

I bought this unit in jan 2014 from solarisjapan.com. I wrote to them month ago but they said that they are trying to contact with micomosoft. Today I haven't any new news from them

Do you know how can I fix this?

Thank you for your help!

PS: Yes, I have tried update firmware

[Shining]

Any word on what Micomsoft are focusing on or might include in the next firmware update?

[blizzz]

aov, that looks similar to the problem I had with my first Framemeister (video). The unit had to be replaced.

What PSU are you using? The original or an aftermarket one? Also, do you connect it to a 100V socket, a US 110-120V socket or a step-down converter from 220-240V -> 110-120V? Maybe there was a voltage spike which damaged the device.

You could also try a different HDMI cable.

[aov]

I use all time original AC with step-down cconverter. It has 5.1V on out (I measured with miltimeter). Also I have 220V chinese adapter http://www.ebay.com/itm/221237677349 it has 5.3V on out. I will try chinese adapter today. But I don't think that will help me...

I try a lot of HDMI cables result is the same.

The unit had to be replaced.

Have you contacted with micomosoft or with the seller?

[blizzz]

I contacted Solaris. Mine was DOA though.

[hosser]

Would an XRGB Mini work OK with a 5.1v, 3A, centre-positive PSU? I know the factory PSU is 5.0v - would it tolerate the slightly higher voltage?

I have hundreds of these 5.1v PSUs because BT (a UK ISP) uses them for their routers.

[BuckoA51]

It should be, do you have a multi-meter? I've found that there's usually a little difference between what the PSU says it outputs and what it actually does. Test one and see exactly how much more juice is coming out compared to the minis own psu.

I have a question about the 240p to 480i transitions. I’ve read that if you use 720p output that the black screen lasts only a few seconds compared to 1080p. Is that true and is that for all the games that have this problems? Games like symphony of the night on PS1 or Majora's Mask are my main concerns.

No truth to that whatsoever, it's the same (8 to 10 seconds I believe) regardless of output resolution.

[wildchild22]

If you use the new edge that doesnt recognize 240p correctly. Will this cause the image not to blank? As it is should see the 480i and 240p as the same resolution and not blank.

If not are there any solutions?

It should be, do you have a multi-meter? I've found that there's usually a little difference between what the PSU says it outputs and what it actually does. Test one and see exactly how much more juice is coming out compared to the minis own psu.

I have a question about the 240p to 480i transitions. I’ve read that if you use 720p output that the black screen lasts only a few seconds compared to 1080p. Is that true and is that for all the games that have this problems? Games like symphony of the night on PS1 or Majora's Mask are my main concerns.

No truth to that whatsoever, it's the same (8 to 10 seconds I believe) regardless of output resolution.

[BuckoA51]

It still blanks I'm afraid, that's if you can get a picture at all. but the Edge is pretty quick taking only a second or two to come back.

If not are there any solutions?

Use a CRT.

[aov]

I tried chinese PSU yesterday and mini worked correct on my TV in all HDMI and DVI modes!
But it still not works with my DVI-monitor (it works correct before).

Next i decided to check original PSU again and it works too! I don't understand it... I tested with original PSU about 20 times it didn't work but now it works...

[BuckoA51]

Sounds like an intermittent fault, often that's down to bad cables.

[austin532]

Does the Mini have secret menus? I sometimes come across a small menu that says:

D
RGB
HDMI1
HDMI2
FULL

This happens when the mini glitches or when a certain combination of buttons is pressed. I believe there is another one as well but can't remember what it says.

[BuckoA51]

Got around to trying my Dreamcast on the Mini today and I was surprised to see it seems to squash the image horizontally the same way the Edge does, anyone else noticed this? It's detected as 720x480 by the mini but still squashed according to the 240p test suite.

[Fudoh]

You mean aspect ratio-wise ?

That's to be expected and the DC's fault. The DC does output a 720x480p signal, but only uses the inner 640x480p area. That's why the DC's output is generally and always displayed in an AR slightly too narrow.

[BuckoA51]

Right, I should update the Wiki with that. I was paying attention the last few times you explained that to me (I promise) but I thought the Mini's firmware was designed to cope with it, I guess thinking about it there's no easy way it could tell that the signal was doing that.

[Edward_Tz]

No truth to that whatsoever, it's the same (8 to 10 seconds I believe) regardless of output resolution.

Thanks for clearing that up. That's a bit of a bummer. So I guess I'll just have to deal with that if I'm not really looking to spend more money than what a Framemeister costs?

[MartijnK]

Hey,
Im sorry for reposting this question:
Does anybody have experience with a using pal snes, (or MD/saturn/N64 for that matter) wich is modded with a ntsc-60hz switch, in combination with the xrgb mini?
I have a pal snes and rather just mod it for 30-40 euros instead of buying a new ntsc (including the step down conv.)

Great forum btw!

Thanks,
Martijn

[BuckoA51]

At 60hz they work on some peoples TVs, other TVs have stutter, depends how tolerant your telly is.

You don't need a step down converter for a NTSC SNES, a Megadrive PSU will do the trick (don't use a UK SNES PSU on it though).

[blizzz]

60Hz modded PAL consoles usually run at a slightly different speed than original NTSC consoles. There are some more sophisticated mods that add another crystal oscillator for 60Hz to get the speed right. For example there's a mod for 1CHIP PAL SNES consoles that's quite good.

But for 30-40€ you can also import a real NTSC SNES console incl shipping from Japan.

[marqs]

Right, I should update the Wiki with that. I was paying attention the last few times you explained that to me (I promise) but I thought the Mini's firmware was designed to cope with it, I guess thinking about it there's no easy way it could tell that the signal was doing that.

Yeah, there's no way Mini could recognize it automatically because horizontal sync length is most likely the same as for standard 720x480 signal. However, it'd nice if there was a couple different sampling rate presets to select manually from.

[Fudoh]

How does the DC (running on the Mini) react to the two "common" AR normal2 and standard ? Does it make a difference ?

[MartijnK]

At 60hz they work on some peoples TVs, other TVs have stutter, depends how tolerant your telly is.

You don't need a step down converter for a NTSC SNES, a Megadrive PSU will do the trick (don't use a UK SNES PSU on it though).

I have a panasonic viera, perhaps you know if these models have stutter.
Good to know about that MD psu!

[MartijnK]

60Hz modded PAL consoles usually run at a slightly different speed than original NTSC consoles. There are some more sophisticated mods that add another crystal oscillator for 60Hz to get the speed right. For example there's a mod for 1CHIP PAL SNES consoles that's quite good.

But for 30-40€ you can also import a real NTSC SNES console incl shipping from Japan.

Ok thanks.
By import from japan, you mean the super famicom?

[Smashbro29]

Having a very unique issue.

I got a Genesis model 1 as recommended here: http://www.retrorgb.com/genesisversions.html Using the cable recommended to tie my 32X into it and save myself buying a new RGB SCART cable.

Spoiler

That works great when used with the 32X. See tests here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlz_9YD ... 4&index=23 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vu8TkT ... 4&index=24

Recently I tried to hook in my Genesis 1 straight through that adapter for the hell of it. No picture, only sound. The cable had previously worked straight when used with my Genesis 2 so I thought it had to be the new cable I pictured.

I emailed Robert at RetroRGB.

Here are the emails, I'm showing it all because I don't want to mess something up because it went over my head:

Spoiler

Me: I have an issue with the cable I bought from you: http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/stor ... _lead.html

While it works flawlessly when used Console-32X-Upscaler when I use it to go from the system to the upscaler directly I get sound but no picture.

Bear in mind the same cable is being used for both things so the only thing I have to blame is your cable.

One theory I have is that the connection isn't being made. For some odd reason there's some exposed metal when I use the 32x but it worked well so I didn't say anything. It was only today when I tried to bypass the 32x did I notice that doing so leaves a lot more of the metal exposed. And they won't go into each other more than they do, I've tried.

Robert: Hi
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
Can you send me a picture of this exposed metal you have discribed to me.

Me: http://imgur.com/a/h1SaZ

The first image is from the 32x. It I'd identifiable by all the cables being black. This works.
The second image is straight Genesis. This is identifiable by the Genesis 2 RGB cable being gray. This doesn't work.

Robert: thank you for the pictures. Please advise on what your whole setup is. i.e. what type of up scaler are you using and are you using a sync stripper.
The reason I ask is because the 32X cable does not transmit any switching voltage. It just supplies audio and video. Therefore if you are using for example an xrgb mini up scaler with a sync stripper built into your euroscart to mini adapter this will not work, as the voltage needed to power the sync stripper is taken from the scart cable, and as the scart cable is plugged into the 32x output it will not receive any voltage. Obviously this will only apply to you if you have an xrgb mini up scaler with sync stripper adapter.

Me: Genesis(or 32x) – euroscart adapter for mini - mini

Now here’s my problem: I’m really not sure if the adapter has a sync stripper in it.

That being said I used this very same Genesis 2 cable with a genesis 2 directly (as well as with a 32X) and that also worked flawlessly.

Robert: okay, thank you. If open up the female scart adapter to mini you will be able to tell whether it has a sync stripper inside. It will be a small circuit

Me: I’m not prepared to do that. I have no idea how to close it back up. Again though, this all works on a Genesis 2 without the adapter. The Genesis 1 is clearly getting audio/video out otherwise it wouldn’t work combined with a 32X so that’s not the issue, the cables all work with the Genesis 2 setup so that’s the not the issue. Do you see how I reached this conclusion?

Robert:Kingdom

I do understand. But here is the situation if you your euroscart to mini adapter does have a sync stripper built in.
Scenario 1.
Direction connection of your genesis 2 to your xrgb up-scaler via an RGB SCART cable and the euroscart adapter. This will work as the scart cable supplies the required 5 volts directly from the Genesis 2 console via the SCART cable, which is needed to power the sync stripper (LM1881) built inside of the euroscart to mini adapter.

Scenario 2.

Direction connection of your 32X to your xrgb up-scaler via an RGB SCART cable and the euroscart adapter. This will work as the scart cable supplies the required 5 volts directly from the 32X add-on via the SCART cable, which is needed to power the sync stripper (LM1881) built inside of the euroscart to mini adapter.

Scenario 3.

Connection of your Genesis 2 to your xrgb up-scaler via the 32X to female 9 pin mini din cable, RGB SCART cable and the euroscart adapter. This will not work as the 5 volts pin is not connected inside of the 32X patch cable and for good reasons, because you dont want that 5 volts to go into your 32X when connected to the 32X.

Therefore as the 32X patch cable doesn't supply 5 volts to the SCART cable, then obviously the SCART cable cannot supply 5 volts to power the sync stripper (LM1881) built inside of the euroscart to mini adapter. So you will only get sound and no video.
If you dont want to open up the scart plug then please ask Rachel at retro accessories whether it has a built in sync stripper.

After that it became "where in the world is retro_console_accessories?" We still don't know.

Any advice?

[ApolloBoy]

You don't need a step down converter for a NTSC SNES, a Megadrive PSU will do the trick (don't use a UK SNES PSU on it though).

A model 1 Genesis/Mega Drive PSU will not fit in an American SNES unless you build some kind of plug adapter cable or mod the SNES with the proper jack.

[Glossectomy]

I received my Taito F3 today and I'm unable to get a stable picture with it. The only info I can find is some older posts with the same issue. I'm on an older firmware and was just curious if this issue has been fixed in a newer firmware.

Thanks!

[BuckoA51]

A model 1 Genesis/Mega Drive PSU will not fit in an American SNES unless you build some kind of plug adapter cable or mod the SNES with the proper jack.

Crap you're right, forgot about that.

I’m not prepared to do that. I have no idea how to close it back up.

You're kidding right? You close it up the same way you open it, it just snaps back together. He's saying if your SCART to Mini adapter has a sync stripper in it, then that configuration isn't going to work as the sync stripper won't be getting any voltage.

Just buy the correct cable would be my advice.

After that it became "where in the world is retro_console_accessories?" We still don't know.

She's not anywhere last time I checked, she's still selling cables.

[Smashbro29]

I’m not prepared to do that. I have no idea how to close it back up.

You're kidding right? You close it up the same way you open it, it just snaps back together. He's saying if your SCART to Mini adapter has a sync stripper in it, then that configuration isn't going to work as the sync stripper won't be getting any voltage.

Just buy the correct cable would be my advice.

After that it became "where in the world is retro_console_accessories?" We still don't know.

She's not anywhere last time I checked, she's still selling cables.

Lay off man, I don't know how all of it works that's why I ask questions when I can't find the answer. I also don't know how to open the thing.

She's really hard to get in contact with, she used to have a website and respond via email and ebay. She doesn't reply anymore and her shop was down for the last few days.

[BuckoA51]

Lay off man, I don't know how all of it works that's why I ask questions when I can't find the answer. I also don't know how to open the thing.

Sometimes in this hobby you just need to use a bit of initiative, especially if someone is trying to help you it's not very helpful to say in return "No I refuse to do that". Especially if its something trivial.

Anyway to open a SCART cable typically you just unscrew the round bit that sits between the cable and the SCART connector then gently pull it apart. To seal it up again, reverse the process.

She's really hard to get in contact with, she used to have a website and respond via email and ebay. She doesn't reply anymore and her shop was down for the last few days.

She has said publicly she gets bogged down with questions especially at busier times of year, you just have to cut these small companies some slack sometimes is all.

[MartijnK]

I have a new question. Atm Im playing around with my pal wii with the component lead (waiting for snes scart lead to arrive).
If I use an emulator, it seems to output great scanlines, but when i play the real VC console games, I dont really see the scanlines that good. Do the pal VC console games need a special setting?