XRGB-mini Framemeister

[austin532]

That's why I asked. Adjusting the positions shouldn't conflict with anything but I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some stupid reason not to.

Does anyone have a list of recommended position settings for various systems?

[Shuco13]

Is there no Component-to-SCART?

now you're mixing things up. When you say "component" and you only mean a component cable (but a RGsB signal), then sure, this works as well (but gives you trouble with the sync line on 15khz RGBs signals), but when you mean component signal (as in YPbPr) then you would need an active transcoder as well to convert from YUV to RGB in the first place.

Ok I see, so when you said: "The framemeister handles component not as good as other sources", did you refer to component signal (as in YPbPr) or component cable?

[Xranger60]

So I've played a bit of Resident Evil 0 on Wii using the Component to D-terminal adapter. I have to say, I'm pretty happy with the results. But is it worth it to use a different kind of set up for greater quality? I've heard that using equipment to convert from YPbPr to VGA, and then to RGBS can improve the quality. But I'm unclear 1) on the equipment I would need, and 2) whether it is worth the difference in quality between component cables -> D-terminal vs. the alternate setup?

Thanks guys

[Floob]

That's why I asked. Adjusting the positions shouldn't conflict with anything but I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some stupid reason not to.

Does anyone have a list of recommended position settings for various systems?

I've set these on mine
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/XRGB ... 0p_sources

I'll try it when I can get the right cable to hook up my MD to it!

[JoinTheBlowforce]

So I just got my Framemeister in today, and I was wondering if anyone here could help with an issue.

First off, I'm guessing this setup is totally non-standard but I don't have another way of hooking stuff up right now as my RetroGamingCables order is a few days late. I'm running a PAL Wii (using it to play Sunshine @ 480i, PAL60) into an external capture card via component (Elgato Game Capture HD), which runs into the XRGB Mini via HDMI.

I'm getting really sporadic signal dropouts, maybe one every half hour or so - not that frequent, but I'm trying to speedrun the game so it's still way too often. Screen blacks out for a few seconds then comes back. Seems to be at random - one occurred on a loading screen but one was in the middle of gameplay. I've played with some of the settings but none seem to make a difference to the problem - different output resolutions, sync modes etc. The feed from the capture device doesn't go down, so it doesn't look like there's a problem between it and the Wii.

Firmware is updated.

Any ideas?

[Floob]

Is this right?
"It very easy to figure out which cable you need. If you have an imported upscaler box from Japan, you need JP-21."
http://www.ebay.de/gds/JP-21-pin-Japane ... 144/g.html

I thought the XRGB Mini was happy enough with a Euro Scart input like this?
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/euro ... -sale.html

[eightbitminiboss]

Is this right?
"It very easy to figure out which cable you need. If you have an imported upscaler box from Japan, you need JP-21."
http://www.ebay.de/gds/JP-21-pin-Japane ... 144/g.html

I thought the XRGB Mini was happy enough with a Euro Scart input like this?
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/euro ... -sale.html

Because that's not the only XRGB device used by people. The older XRGB devices don't have the mini-din connector like the Mini does. You're fine with using the adapter.

[BuckoA51]

So I've played a bit of Resident Evil 0 on Wii using the Component to D-terminal adapter. I have to say, I'm pretty happy with the results. But is it worth it to use a different kind of set up for greater quality? I've heard that using equipment to convert from YPbPr to VGA, and then to RGBS can improve the quality. But I'm unclear 1) on the equipment I would need, and 2) whether it is worth the difference in quality between component cables -> D-terminal vs. the alternate setup?

Thanks guys

I tried it and took lots of screen captures. Have a look here - http://www.videogameperfection.com/2014 ... r-gallery/ you can decide for yourself if it is worth it.

[austin532]

That's why I asked. Adjusting the positions shouldn't conflict with anything but I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some stupid reason not to.

Does anyone have a list of recommended position settings for various systems?

I've set these on mine
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/XRGB ... 0p_sources

I'll try it when I can get the right cable to hook up my MD to it!

I meant position settings as in where you can actually move the screen Horizontally or Vertically. I'm trying to get a perfect center image for various systems. I've just been eyeballing it so far so that's why I asked if anyone has a list to go by as a reference.

[Shuco13]

So I've played a bit of Resident Evil 0 on Wii using the Component to D-terminal adapter. I have to say, I'm pretty happy with the results. But is it worth it to use a different kind of set up for greater quality? I've heard that using equipment to convert from YPbPr to VGA, and then to RGBS can improve the quality. But I'm unclear 1) on the equipment I would need, and 2) whether it is worth the difference in quality between component cables -> D-terminal vs. the alternate setup?

Thanks guys

I tried it and took lots of screen captures. Have a look here - http://www.videogameperfection.com/2014 ... r-gallery/ you can decide for yourself if it is worth it.

Is there actually any benefit of using the transcoder? I only see it messing with the greyscale...

[BuckoA51]

There didn't seem to be as big a difference as I'd expected though it is certainly less fiddly to get the colours right using the RGB in on the Mini. For me it reduces cable clutter so I will be keeping it.

[Shuco13]

There didn't seem to be as big a difference as I'd expected though it is certainly less fiddly to get the colours right using the RGB in on the Mini. For me it reduces cable clutter so I will be keeping it.

Had you made any adjustments in colour or greyscale before you captured the different outputs? Ah and by the way, thanks a lot for the detailed comparison shots.

[BuckoA51]

No I didn't make any adjustments. I reset my Mini recently so the values should be close to the default.

[BuckoA51]

So I um, may have broken the Wiki, again.. sorry about that



That's what I get when I try and edit the page, it just suddenly happened as I was editing away.

[Artemio]

So I um, may have broken the Wiki, again.. sorry about that

That's what I get when I try and edit the page, it just suddenly happened as I was editing away.

Fixed it, it seems there was some database corruption when you edited, I restored form last night backup and replaced the amazon link with what you had. Please let me know if it is as expected.

[Floob]

ARGH! This is annoying.
I cant get the mini to output to my LCD.

The OSD from the Mini is fine and I can set this without issue, but I cant get the signal from the MegaDrive.
The front of the mini has lights on the 'Power' and 'Output Link' sections. Should the 'input' light go on when it sees the signal from the MD?

The MD works fine with the RGB cable straight into the TV Scart connection.

I'm using this out of the MD (60Hz JPN)
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega ... -lead.html
then into this (which then goes into the mini):
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/euro ... -sale.html

Is there something obvious I'm forgetting?
What should I double check? Thanks for any pointers.

[BuckoA51]

Yes the input light should go on.

Are you running it through any kind of SCART switch?

[CkRtech]

Is there something obvious I'm forgetting?

You have the RGB input selected on the mini, right?

[Floob]

Yes the input light should go on.

Are you running it through any kind of SCART switch?

Nope, no switch. Just straight to the converter.
Here are pics showing whats going on. It was same using sync stripper as well.

[Fudoh]

And you adjusted the RGB sync level in the Mini's menu ?

[Floob]

Is there something obvious I'm forgetting?

You have the RGB input selected on the mini, right?

Ah!! That was it! God I'm stupid.
Ok - so now it doesnt say No Input, but the screen appears for a moment, has a weird stretched effect for a second then goes black, then weird stretched then black again.
I'm going to try the sync stripper again now in case thats it.

[Fudoh]

The combination of stripper + sync level should fix it 100%. It it doesn't, you got a problem with the stripper's power supply. It's usually better to power it externally or from the Mini's PSU and NOT from the 5V line provided by the source system.

[Floob]

And you adjusted the RGB sync level in the Mini's menu ?

Sync_Level says '9', should I try tweaking that until it has a stable image?

[Fudoh]

yes, definitely. That's what the option is there for

[Floob]

The combination of stripper + sync level should fix it 100%. It it doesn't, you got a problem with the stripper's power supply. It's usually better to power it externally or from the Mini's PSU and NOT from the 5V line provided by the source system.

Ah! Used Sync stripper - I now have a stable screen!

[Floob]

Ok, so trying the mini out for the first time.

Here are some pics of the games straight from RGB Scart into the TV.



And here are some using the XRGB Mini


Feel free to shout if I should be changing any of my settings. Currently set to 480p out (on a 720p LCD), and these settings
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/XRGB ... 0p_sources
Maybe I should see what its like on 720p out from the mini.

[RGB32E]

On consoles with a Sony CXA-1145 (Neo Geo AES, Genesis 1, SMS, etc) it has been my experience that doing a pin 11 CSYNC mod works perfectly with the mini and gives the best picture. Just replace the signal going to the sync pin with the signal from CXA1145 pin 11 (CSYNC out) through a 220uF - 470uF cap and a 75 ohm resistor. No need to change the default sync level on the XRGB-mini!

pin 11 ----|(----^^^^----- CSYNC pin on 8MDIN

[austin532]

Just as I thought. Adjusting the Horizontal position has a negative effect on PS2 games that support 480p. I get the white vertical bar to the left of the screen when the H_Pos is set to anything but 64. I've tried other games that natively support 480p and get the same result. This doesn't happen for 480i games though.

[Ace9921]

Got an arcade PCB compatibility question for you guys. I'm planning on getting an XRGB-Mini, but a potential problem is some of my arcade PCBs. While the Neo Geo MVS has been documented (I have an MV-1T), there are some other boards that I'm not sure if the XRGB-Mini will accept their RGB input. Some of these have VSync frequencies above NTSC's 59.94Hz VSync. Here are the boards in question:

-Thunder Force AC (Sega System C-2 hardware - this is derived from MegaDrive hardware, so it *MIGHT* not have an issue, but I just want to make sure)
-Salamander/Life Force (Konami Nemesis hardware - this game naturally has an off-center picture with a pretty big horizontal shift to the right and vertical shift upwards to the point of having part of the score display going into overscan on CRT TVs. On top of it, this game seems to use a 60.61Hz VSync, and on my current converters, the LKV362A and GBS-8220, the former is missing an entire row of pixels on the top of the screen but has no problems when the screen scrolls and the latter has the full picture, but screen tearing when things scroll. I don't want to have to deal with this on the XRGB-Mini)
-Nemesis (Konami Nemesis hardware - same deal as Salamander)

[BuckoA51]

At 60.61Hz I don't see how any upscaler could be expected to handle that without stutter.