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 Post subject: help with hrap mod.
PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:44 am 


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I recently purchased a hori real arcade pro and after using it a few weeks decided to get a new stick (LS-32-02). Unfortunately I was unaware that I had the 'new' version HRAP and because the mounting plate inside the HRAP is different I don't have a clue how to install my new stick.

Image

As I understand it the old HRAP's had both vertical and horizontal mounting plates and this only has vertical. I've though about drilling 2 extra holes in the plate but even if I do the stick itself would rest about half an inch above the actual 'face' plate (possibly making it too short to use).

does anyone have any advice as to how i'd go about putting my new stick in?

any help is greatly appreciated


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:50 pm 


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What's the measurement in millimeters for the centered screw holes there?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 1:54 am 


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If you mean those 2 at the top and bottom (1 at the top, 1 at the bottom) they're 4mm. The four things in the centre are solder marks, they look like holes because it's a crap pic :) also the four around the out side (2 at the top, 2 at the bottom) aren't actually screw holes and they're slight larger than 3mm.

I didn't mention before but I can't screw the stick in because the holes are too far apart. I really, really need to get this stick in soon as I need to practice up for a comp. I could take matters into my own hands but I thought I'd ask people who probably know more than me because I might totally ruin my new stick, lol.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:22 am 


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I meant the distance between those two centered screw holes (something around 70mm?). If you could measure the horizontal and vertical distances on the outer mounts that would help too. I ask because the spacing looks very similar to the updated mounting plate on LS-56-01. I don't think you'll be able to fit the LS-32 in that updated RAP unless you use a flat plate, but it's just guessing at this point.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:22 am 


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oops, sorry about that. Yeah they're about 68mm apart. does that help?
here are some other dimentions (i'll update the pic when I have more time)

the centre section (with the solder marks) is about 4cm from top to bottom

the slightly raised bits (with the screw holes in) are about 23mm from top to bottom and 53mm from left to right.

the hole thing is around 96mm from top to bottom.

also the raised section are about 6mm high. I don't know if losing that height would make the stick hard to use or not.

One final thing, if there's no way I can put it in, do you know of a stick with a similar feel that would fit? I'm wanting a stick with very little give and , although I don't want an octagnal gate I don't want it to feel 'too' square. The problem I had with the origional hrap stick was that even after I heard the stick 'click' there was still a little bit of give and I didn't like it.

EDIT: could you fill me in on getting a 'flat plate'? would that mean removing the one that's there already? thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:15 pm 


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From your measurements, the LS-55-01 or LS-56-01 are the perfect fit while retaining 'normal' stick height. Now, if the outer screw mounts are 90x45 as they should be (you gave the overall area as 96x53mm, so not sure), then you can use your LS-32-01 as well, but only with a flat plate. I have an extra that I could sell you if needed. The stick height should be about 3-5mm lower than normal, which is fine IMHO, and no change in feeling or performance.

About your reasoning for switching sticks...the 'dead' area from microswitch engage to hitting the guide/gate: this is prevalent on any modern day Sanwa/Seimitsu. However, you should notice a harder feeling,etc., in most Seimitsu sticks compared to Sanwa. I've actually been thinking of custom fabricating a solid metal guide which will shorten the throw to only allow micro engagement (like old Seimitsu on NeoGeo AES sticks), but it might be awhile before that materializes. The other way is straight old school discipline in technique; move only enough to engage the micro - 'dead' area is for the weak. ;)

When I say 'flat' or 'step' plate, this refers to the plate style which attaches to the stick itself (somewhat generically). They are also referred to as 'T' and 'S'.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:10 pm 


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thanks so much for the info. My stick looks like this

Image

the plate is the big gray bit, right? I've taken this off a few times just to see how it fits and also I understand that on the hrap 2 you actually had to turn it 90degrees so that the directions are in the right place.

what kind of plate do I have? I think i've seen the flat plate on a regular LS-32 but it didn't have the 5 pin thing on it so I didn't bother.

So what do you think I should do? get my self a flat plate?

finally, do those 2 sticks you mention feels similar to the ls 32 01? and also are you saying it doesn't matter that the stick doesn't rest on the actual underside of the face? just because when I've put the stick in and held it in place it seems very short.

thanks agian :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:52 pm 


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No problem. Yes, that's the stick mounting plate. It's the default step plate on LS-32-01 (a mild step, compared to others). You can get a flat plate from Seimitsu by request. The flat plate would be the easiest and least expensive method so you might want to try it first before buying the LS-55/56. But like said before, the stick height will be 3-5mm lower this way. There will be enough room for any style of handling, but it comes down to personal preference.

The LS-55/56 feel identical to LS-32, yes. The difference is not in feeling.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:23 pm 


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Agian thanks for the info. If I can't fit it I have a friend who'll take the LS 32 off my hands and i'm also thinking of putting it in my dc stick but I know that would be a lot of work. I ideally of course I want it in my hrap.

did you say you had a flat plate you could sell me? :) I didn't get the stick directly from seimitsu and i'm not sure how i'd get that plate from them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 2:44 am 


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Yeah, I have some extra flat plates that I'll likely never use. Send me a PM with your location and we'll get it sorted.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:24 pm 


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For future reference and in summary: This type of baseplate is only present on recent production Hori RAP-1s (not sure the timeframe) and Special Addition (Sanwa special) ONLY. So if you have either of these, be sure to get the LS-56-01 or LS-55-01 if you want normal stick height and no fuss.

Cheers. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:23 am 


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it's mentioned in the thread that everything should function the same with a higher stick vs an LS32? To me, I would think that it's the same concept behind the short shifter on a car- decreasing the throw? Maybe I'm totally off, tho?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:55 am 



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
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Location: Virginia, USA
There are ways to mod the HRAP style sticks without the Seimitsu mounting area. It requires some metal work, but nothing more than drilling.

For the most straight forward way, you will, at the very least, need to make holes in the top panel to mount the joystick.

First you need to remove the mounting area that is there. You can see that there are welded points. You need to drill through those (you could use a dremel tool if you'd like so that you wouldn't drill completely through the top panel). This shouldn't take very long. Just remember that you need to remove the entire welded area.

Second, with the mounting area removed, just make holes to mount the LS-32-01. 4 quick holes. You will want to countersink the holes so that the screws will sit flush with the surface. Then you're done.

Of course, there are other ways to do a mod job, but I think this is the quickest and easiest.

~Paik


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:05 am 


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Paik4Life wrote:
For the most straight forward way, you will, at the very least, need to make holes in the top panel to mount the joystick.

First you need to remove the mounting area that is there. You can see that there are welded points. You need to drill through those (you could use a dremel tool if you'd like so that you wouldn't drill completely through the top panel). This shouldn't take very long. Just remember that you need to remove the entire welded area.

Second, with the mounting area removed, just make holes to mount the LS-32-01. 4 quick holes. You will want to countersink the holes so that the screws will sit flush with the surface. Then you're done.


I haven't tried, but shouldn't it be possible to peel off the top plastic sheet, do the work on the steel, then stick the plastic back?
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 1:38 pm 



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
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Location: Virginia, USA
It's a sticker layer. It doesn't come off cleanly. But you can definitely attempt it.

~Paik


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:04 pm 


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I repeat, LS-55-01 or LS-56-01. Let's be reasonable.

D wrote:
it's mentioned in the thread that everything should function the same with a higher stick vs an LS32? To me, I would think that it's the same concept behind the short shifter on a car- decreasing the throw? Maybe I'm totally off, tho?


It's not like a short shifter on a car (one that actually does what it's supposed to, that is). With a joystick the height above panel can be anything, it doesn't change the actual throw, however it can change the perception of it. Personally I like the normal height or lower. With LS55/56-01 in this version of RAP, it won't sit higher than factory btw.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:04 am 



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 8
I dont suppose you guys could give me the measurements of the arcade stick's casing (not the box it came from) I want to build my own arcade stick but I want it to have a similarly sized box as these


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