OGXbox digital teased by Dan aka citurs3000psi

[RetroBVM]

If you missed it, yesterday Dan aka citrus3000psi teased a pic of the upcoming OGXbox digital mod in his Twitter post https://twitter.com/citrus3000psi/statu ... 2604383234.

In the post there was a picture where the Ethernet port was replaced with the HDMI port, some people in the comments preferred to keep the Ethernet port.
So Dan updated his tease with two possible install options (one no cut with port replacement and one cut option with adding another hole for the Ethernet port).
My question is could the HDMI port on his products be routed through the went holes of the consoles (Gamecube,Wii, Dreamcast and OG Xbox) - the PS1 probably needs a riser to make it a no cut mod?

[nmalinoski]

So Dan updated his tease with two possible install options (one no cut with port replacement and one cut option with adding another hole for the Ethernet port).

The way it read to me was that you can either put the HDMI socket where the Ethernet jack is and have it bridged to the mod's wireless functionality (which is, honestly, a great idea. Can we get that for DC Digital?); or, if I read it correctly, the same thing but widen the cutout for the Ethernet jack so a new one can be placed next to it--makes more sense to build the same board for both scenarios and just leave the Ethernet jack off if you're going WiFi-only.

Also makes a lot of sense for the mod to have it's own Ethernet jack if it's bridging itself to the Ethernet as well.

Dan also mentioned a jumper to select between WiFi and Ethernet. Honestly, I'd prefer to see that be automatic; have it detect when a cable is connected to the Ethernet jack, and then automatically cut off WiFi and go wired when it's connected. If the physical jack isn't installed, like in the first proposed scenario, then it'll never be triggered and be WiFi only.

My question is could the HDMI port on his products be routed through the went holes of the consoles (Gamecube,Wii, Dreamcast and OG Xbox) - the PS1 probably needs a riser to make it a no cut mod?

That really depends on the console. I'm not familiar with the GameCube, but I believe its intake vent holes (on the non-fan side) are too small/squared to accommodate a Mini HDMI socket; might be able to fit miniDP or Micro HDMI, but I'm not certain it could be properly secured, and it would be very awkward with the video cable coming out the side (as anyone with a Genesis CDX and a non-right-angle AV cable could attest).

I don't think the Wii has any vents that are large or exposed enough for an HDMI port of any size--in its vertical orientation, the intake is underneath the console and entirely inaccessible for a video cable (and effectively preventing a valid orientation would be stupid); and the only vents on the back are blocked by the exhaust fan. Personally, I think it would be more worthwhile to investigate replacing the 2x USB stack at the back with a 1x USB and fitting a Mini HDMI port in the vacant space; that would keep at least one full-size USB port (which can be expanded with a hub) while avoiding having to cut the case.

The rear vents on the Dreamcast are absolutely out, because the upper EM shield obscures all of them. There really isn't a good alternative to cutting unless you get an aftermarket/repro shell; or, assuming it's even remotely possible, getting video output from the expansion socket, which would have its own problems, like needing to cannibalize modems for the connector.

As for the Xbox, it's been a while since I've had mine open, but I don't think there are any holes at the back large enough for even a MicroHDMI socket--possibly the holes in the metal at the fan exhaust, but not the plastic, and that would involve modifying the fan or cutting the plastic, both of which would be no bueno. I think it's possible to get a wire out the front intakes, but running the AV signal out the front would be stupid.

That basically leaves replacing either the AV socket, which Dan stated he wants to avoid doing from the start, or the only other opening at the back, which would be the Ethernet jack; and placing both the HDMI socket and Ethernet jack directly next to each other is probably because it'll be easier to widen that existing hole than open up a new, standalone one.

On the other hand, the frontloader NES, as I learned today from Greg Collins, apparently has openings wide enough for an HDMI flex cable, and Greg has designs for an external HDMI socket that clips in in place of the expansion port cover and routes the cable out one of the channels along the bottom.

[RetroBVM]

Would riser no cut mods be a solution?

[nmalinoski]

Would riser no cut mods be a solution?

Maybe? One of the biggest issues is that the inside of pretty much the entire shell is lined with a metal EM shield, which I think is what makes it difficult to pop new holes in the case.

On the bright side, unlike a bunch of other consoles, where raising the position of the top shell will interfere with vertical placement of things like the cartridge slot (NES) or the disc drive/power button (Dreamcast, PS1, probably Saturn), there's nothing that depends on the position of the top shell on the Xbox. Might be a little awkward with an HDMI port just under the top edge of the shell, and it would probably defeat the EM shielding to a degree, but, functionally, I think a riser mod could work.

[citrus3000psi]

Dan also mentioned a jumper to select between WiFi and Ethernet. Honestly, I'd prefer to see that be automatic; have it detect when a cable is connected to the Ethernet jack, and then automatically cut off WiFi and go wired when it's connected. If the physical jack isn't installed, like in the first proposed scenario, then it'll never be triggered and be WiFi only.

This will be controlled with the FPGA, so you will be able to select which one from the OSD.

[RetroBVM]

On the bright side, unlike a bunch of other consoles, where raising the position of the top shell will interfere with vertical placement of things like the cartridge slot (NES) or the disc drive/power button (Dreamcast, PS1, probably Saturn), there's nothing that depends on the position of the top shell on the Xbox. Might be a little awkward with an HDMI port just under the top edge of the shell, and it would probably defeat the EM shielding to a degree, but, functionally, I think a riser mod could work.

Haven't tough about the vertical interference at all. Maybe we could rise the whole underside of the board to with spacers, if that is even possible? I guess Collingall to the rescue

[nmalinoski]

On the bright side, unlike a bunch of other consoles, where raising the position of the top shell will interfere with vertical placement of things like the cartridge slot (NES) or the disc drive/power button (Dreamcast, PS1, probably Saturn), there's nothing that depends on the position of the top shell on the Xbox. Might be a little awkward with an HDMI port just under the top edge of the shell, and it would probably defeat the EM shielding to a degree, but, functionally, I think a riser mod could work.

Haven't tough about the vertical interference at all. Maybe we could rise the whole underside of the board to with spacers, if that is even possible? I guess Collingall to the rescue

Functionally, it should be possible, but I'm not sure I would really want to significantly alter any of these consoles' visual profiles.

For the front-loader NES, I think there are two approaches. First, you should be able to leave the board where it is, so power and stock AV outputs don't need to be relocated, and you could mount a Blinking Light Win on spacers and pair it with a taller connecting PCB--this could be installed with nothing more than a screwdriver.

The other approach for the NES would require desoldering the power/AV block (which is doable but not that easy without either a desoldering gun or a good amount of desoldering wick), relocating it lower with maybe a fat header and some grounding lines, and then putting the main board on spacers (could also just be part of the 3D-printed scaffolding holding the multi-out/Hi-Def NES board). In both cases, you'd need significantly longer screws.

The Dreamcast might also be feasible for GDEMU/USB-GDROM users (Just need a taller 3D-printed SD card relocator), but GD-ROM users would need to put the drive on stilts, and an extender for the drive's modular connector would need to be manufactured. Would also need to do something about the cooling airflow due to the increased amount of internal space. The sticking point would be the DC Digital--I don't think there's enough space in the upper areas to accommodate the board as designed. Might be able to place it over the modem, which would require a flex cable extension, and it would still require modification of the EM shield.

PS1 would require 3D-printed extensions for the CD-ROM drive and the power and reset buttons (might also need a drive connector extension, which isn't really a problem).