Need info about the official Playstation 1 SCART cable

[reldvs1]

So I'm trying to find out if the wire is shielded and how much shielded?

Do they come wired for RGB with synch on green?

Do the official cables have two ferrite barrel things on them? Gray in color on both ends with gray wire?

Can it be used on PS2 for RGsB?.....I want to go from ps2 to my cheap scart RGB upscaler

Are these worth having?......can it be rewired for better results?

Sorry for the many questions. If you can even punt me to a link where I can find these answers on my own, I don't mind reading

I found at garage sale. Any help on this would be very helpful.

[nmalinoski]

Do they come wired for RGB with synch on green?

Can it be used on PS2 for RGsB?.....I want to go from ps2 to my cheap scart RGB upscaler

Sync-on-green (RGsB) is only relevant for PS2. Technically, yes, they are "wired" for sync-on-green, but all that means is that it has wires for R, G, and B. You may run into a problem with your cheap scaler if it doesn't specifically support RGsB; if it's like most SCART equipment, it requires a separate sync signal, and the PS2 will not output to composite video or luma (the typical sources of separate sync on the PS2) when in RGsB mode for 480p+.

Cables made for the original PlayStation have additional components in them. If we're talking NTSC, they have capacitors; and, if we're talking PAL, they have resistors. Either way, they may work okay on PS2s and PS3s, but those components were integrated into the PS2 and PS3, so those two consoles use straight cables, which means your PS1 SCART cable is somewhat unsuitable for use on the PS2.

[reldvs1]

Thanks very much for all your help.

So what's my best option for ps2 ntsc console. I thought rgb would be but it seems there's more and more problems.

I can't afford more than a cheapo vcando rgb and composite scart to hdmi...for now...should I abandon this rgb scart idea? If YES what is the best way to go on a budget?
I've got the hdbox pro is this as good as I can hope?

I'm planning on attempting an RGB mod on crt tv eventually but until then I'd like to be able to run one ps2 on vga monitor or lcd TV with vga inputs
Another ps2 on a 4k LG
I have one slim and 3 fat ps2
All soft mod but one which has mod chip

Looking for best solutions
Thanks again for the ps1 scart info
If I scraped the pcb inside scart socket would the cable shielding make it worth rewiring cable so it would omit pcb? In other words, is the wire inside the cable shielded well enough to warrant reusing it?

[reldvs1]

I found a thread where RAMA speaks about doing this.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=61174

So what do you think of taking the cable rewiring it without pcb. Then go RGsB from ps2 through scart .......then into lm1881 to strip synch
Would this make any difference?
I'm also considering gbs8200 but I'm honestly getting in over my head and need someone to help cut through the junk and help me determine what's best for my needs and my limited budget

Thanks for any help you can provide

[kel]

The official cables are fine as they are. They are not shielded but I've never noticed any interference personally with them. I think some people have had issues with chequerboard patterns on various PS1/PS2 scart cables but the fix for that would be to use Luma for sync or maybe a sync stripper would help. The only other problem is that for some reason the 5v connection can cause sync drop outs.

I wouldn't advise modifying the official cable as they will probably be worth quite a bit to collectors as time goes on and you may regret it in years to come. At most you should disconnect the 5v connection in the scart head to avoid sync drop outs and cover the conductor end with some insulating tape. If you come across the chequerboard issue then either mod your console to output Luma over the composite sync pin (should be quite an easy mod) or try to fit a sync stripper in the Scart head without ripping any official parts out. Plus you will have a spare 5v wire hanging around anyway which can be used for the sync stripper.

[theclaw]

A component cable is more user friendly than RGB. It avoids the issues with sync-on-green (or green movie playback).
But RGB can have a bit cleaner picture.

Fortunately* most games are unaffected. To clarify, PS2 automatically switches its RGB output from RGBs to RGsB, while running 480p+ content.

*On the other hand it's a sign how spotty 480p support was.

[nmalinoski]

But RGB can have a bit cleaner picture.

Do you have a source for this? My understanding is that YPbPr and RGB are indistinguishable if you use a non-garbage component cable (official, HD Retrovision).

[Lawfer]

But RGB can have a bit cleaner picture.

Do you have a source for this? My understanding is that YPbPr and RGB are indistinguishable if you use a non-garbage component cable (official, HD Retrovision).

It might look a bit different depending on the console and display you are using, also with RGB you can get pure sync (1 wire just for the sync), while with YPbPr only 3 wires and therefore the sync is not pure/clean.

[Kez]

But RGB can have a bit cleaner picture.

I think this is misinformation due to the prevalence of cheap PS2 component cables and issues with component processing on some devices.

It is my understanding that the RGsB and YUV signals are very similar electronically and I can't imagine the chain to the output port on the PS2 varies much, given that you can change between the two modes instantly just by changing a setting.

Sure, a modded PS2 can output clean csync with RGB but I think we all know that good quality component is capable of extremely clean and crisp image quality even at HD resolutions.

[nmalinoski]

But RGB can have a bit cleaner picture.

Do you have a source for this? My understanding is that YPbPr and RGB are indistinguishable if you use a non-garbage component cable (official, HD Retrovision).

It might look a bit different depending on the console and display you are using, also with RGB you can get pure sync (1 wire just for the sync), while with YPbPr only 3 wires and therefore the sync is not pure/clean.

This sounds wrong. With RGBS output from the PS2, sync normally comes from composite video, which is known to cause interference when unshielded, and is, by your definition, unclean sync; same with luma, as well as RGsB for 480p+.

Frankly, it doesn't matter, because the sync signals occur separately from video data and are clearly demarked with the front and back porches.

As for differences in appearance on different displays, would that not simply be differences in technology and/or calibration?

[Lawfer]

This sounds wrong. With RGBS output from the PS2, sync normally comes from composite video, which is known to cause interference when unshielded, and is, by your definition, unclean sync; same with luma, as well as RGsB for 480p+.

I am not talking about composite video as sync, but CSYNC. There's composite video as sync, sync on luma and CSYNC, sync on luma and CSYNC provideo the best quality. Composite video as sync is not pure/clean sync.

Get a sync on luma cable from Reto-Access, official RGB cables will only give you composite video as sync. PS2 and PS1 will not output CSYNC without a mod.

As for differences in appearance on different displays, would that not simply be differences in technology and/or calibration?

The issue is that the resulting picture can be different depending on the console and/or display, you could probably change the settings on your display to achieve a picture closer to RGB, but that's it. Some consoles might have an YPbPr output that is darker than their RGB output, some consoles might have an YPbPr output that is more noisy than their RGB output etc

[Syntax]

Lets set a couple things straight.

Composite video for sync IS THE STANDARD. It only causes cross hatching and interference when you have crappy cables.
The same crappy cables will hum on white screens from the RGB lines coupling into the audio.
Separate shielded wires will stop this.

Most of everything consumer is expecting composite video for sync.
All consumer TV sets have a sync stripper circuit in them. Infact some are expecting to see if an NTSC or PAL signal is being sent and change some options accordingly.
Using csync stops these things from working. It can cause image wobble, wrong colors ect.
Using a sync stripper can cause image issues or interference depending on design, power ect. The LM1881n commonly used has a delay that can shift image.
Most of these are powered by the power on console AV out which is another bad variable.

Personally I used shielded cables and composite video for sync till I started using an Extron, then I modded each system to output native csync and rebuilt composite video for the Tvs that needed it.

[Lawfer]

Most of everything consumer is expecting composite video for sync.

I have yet to see a display that accepts composite video as sync but won't accept sync on luma nor CSYNC, I am sure there might be some displays out there who behave this way but it's hardly the rule, as a rule if your display can do composite video as sync then it should accept CSYNC as well.

Using a sync stripper can cause image issues or interference depending on design, power ect. The LM1881n commonly used has a delay that can shift image.

You can get a nice sync on luma RGB cable from Retro-Access that will give you the same quality as CSYNC which is one of the best picture possible or if you REALLY need CSYNC get your console modded, no sync stripper needed.

[Syntax]

I can show you atleast 3 sets or more that have an issue with csync.
There's even threads here about the Sony color issue.

But I cannot show you a single consumer set that has an issue with composite video for sync.

Funny that.

[Lawfer]

As I said:

I am sure there might be some displays out there who behave this way but it's hardly the rule, as a rule if your display can do composite video as sync then it should accept CSYNC as well.

What you are pointing out are the exception, not the rule.

[Syntax]

Your chasing your tail now.

[theclaw]

As I said:

I am sure there might be some displays out there who behave this way but it's hardly the rule, as a rule if your display can do composite video as sync then it should accept CSYNC as well.

What you are pointing out are the exception, not the rule.

The point is that using CSYNC is the exception.