PCE Duo Power Adapter Help

[robotvendingmachine]

I just got a PCE Duo in the mail and need a power adapter for it. On the back of the unit it calls for 10V adapter, but looking at the input it does not look like any other adapter I have. Anyone know which one would work with it? This is a "Duo" model not a "Duo-R".

[Johnpv]

Console5.com sells a plug adapter that lets you use a genesis model 1 AC adapter with the Duo.

https://console5.com/store/turbo-duo-po ... cable.html

[Gunstar]

Barrel tip and polarity type:

PC Engine Duo 10V 1A Center pin: Positive / Barrel: 6.3mm x 3.0mm

That adapter Johnpv posted looks perfect. If you get that adapter but don't have a Genesis/MD1 PSU make sure to get one with a negative center since the adapter changes it to positive.

[mickcris]

you could also get something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-2A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1490633905
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-1A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1806491813

[DirkSwizzler]

you could also get something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-2A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1490633905
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-1A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1806491813

I would be REALLY picky about which power adapters you use. The ability for your adapter to add noise to your video signal is quite high. And I assume that if the effect can propagate all the way to the video signal. Then it probably shortens console life as well.

HD Retrovision inspected a few power supplies and recommends these as a good starting point. It's center positive so be aware of which consoles need center negative and adapt.

I use 2 of those in my setup for consoles. I recently had trouble getting a YPbPr -> RGBS transcoder to work with replacement supply other than the highest quality 12v I could find on DigiKey. I'm not an expert but I was so pleased that it solved my device's need for clean power that I've been using CUI power bricks with barrel splitters for most of my retro accessory needs.

12v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/2920441
9v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/5297467
5v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/2920432

[Syntax]

you could also get something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-2A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1490633905
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9V-1A-AC-DC-Pow ... 1806491813

I would be REALLY picky about which power adapters you use. The ability for your adapter to add noise to your video signal is quite high. And I assume that if the effect can propagate all the way to the video signal. Then it probably shortens console life as well.

HD Retrovision inspected a few power supplies and recommends these as a good starting point. It's center positive so be aware of which consoles need center negative and adapt.

I use 2 of those in my setup for consoles. I recently had trouble getting a YPbPr -> RGBS transcoder to work with replacement supply other than the highest quality 12v I could find on DigiKey. I'm not an expert but I was so pleased that it solved my device's need for clean power that I've been using CUI power bricks with barrel splitters for most of my retro accessory needs.

12v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/2920441
9v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/5297467
5v: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/2920432

Fair bit of misinformation there.
Most consoles have plenty of filtration as they all ran off big noisey linear power supplies.
The big heavy wire wound power brick you get with a model 1 Sega Gen/Mega is one.
That 10v psu will output 14 -15v if you have good voltage to your house.
Today's power supplies are switching and are even cleaner and more efficient.

It's far more benifeit upgrading the internal 5v regulators in retro consoles than it is worrying about a "clean" power supply.

My 2 cents.

[DirkSwizzler]

Today's power supplies are switching and are even cleaner and more efficient.

I'm not an expert. And I admit that I tend toward the paranoid side when I don't fully research a topic. But it's my understanding that the switching regulators in modern power supplies are what create the noisy power if not properly accounted for.

Absolutely more efficient. And the original power bricks are far less noisy power-wise. But if you are replacing an aging power supply (or, in my case, japanese ones), it's best not to cheap out.

Once again, I tend to be more paranoid. But I've seen noisy results from occassionally using cheapo power adapters in my setup.

I think RetroRGB has even said a few times that it's super easy to make a power supply that seems correct but doing bad things.

[Syntax]

Im no expert either.
Sorry you are correct, linear psu is less noisey but output voltage can fluctuate greatly.
Cheap switching psu are bad for current draw (amps)but as long as they don't output a.c. on a dc line they should be fine and the console should be able to handle cleaning it up.
It's when eBay sellers label something as 1amp but it's really 250mah you run into trouble.

I just purchased some 2 amp ones that are as light as a feather, and only rated to 1 amp MAX. Lol. Still fine on my NESRGB and Snes. Both upgraded 5v regs.

Having said that one sure there is some really dodgy crap out there.

[mickcris]

There are some bad cheap power supplies out there, but most cheap ones ive tried have worked fine. just make sure to get one from somewhere where you can return it (like the links i had above). The main ones I've had problems with video interference have been ones that have an adjustable output voltage.

If you wanted to get the one that linked by DirkSwizzer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BRKFII?pldnSite=1
then just add one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-6-3x3-0 ... 2041862568

I would not be afraid to order the ebay one that I linked to though. Its probably fine and it can be returned if its junk. I would pay the extra quarter for the 2A one though.

[Steamflogger Boss]

I'll back up that definitely crap power supplies can cause noise. The one that I got with my Duo R was truly awful and created a very visible and obnoxious rolling scroll noise. I replaced it with one from GameDoctorHK (eBay seller) and now have zero issues.

I will also second the advice of just buying from somewhere with an easy return policy. That way if it's crap you just return it and try again.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

The 3rd-party switching Duo RX AC adapter that GameDoctorHK (eBay seller) sells -- I bought one for my PC Engine Duo RX console and it works like a charm "with no hot or warm to the touch" issues to contend with whatsoever (whereas if I use the OEM 1st-party JPN 100v AC adapter that came bundled with the PCE Duo RX & plugged in to an U.S. 120v AC outlet, it tends to get quite warm to the touch even if powered up for just for 30 minutes to an hour or so -- cause for a bit of concern there).

On my TTI Turbo Duo console, I use the OEM supplied Duo AC adapter that's rated for 120v AC and it's fine (it does tend to get "warm to the touch" if used on a marathon PCE/TG-16 gaming session of a few hours -- but that's to be expected anyways).

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[jamisonia]

The 3rd-party switching Duo RX AC adapter that GameDoctorHK (eBay seller) sells -- I bought one for my PC Engine Duo RX console and it works like a charm "with no hot or warm to the touch" issues to contend with whatsoever (whereas if I use the OEM 1st-party JPN 100v AC adapter that came bundled with the PCE Duo RX & plugged in to an U.S. 120v AC outlet, it tends to get quite warm to the touch even if powered up for just for 30 minutes to an hour or so -- cause for a bit of concern there).

On my TTI Turbo Duo console, I use the OEM supplied Duo AC adapter that's rated for 120v AC and it's fine (it does tend to get "warm to the touch" if used on a marathon PCE/TG-16 gaming session of a few hours -- but that's to be expected anyways).

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

Plugging in Japanese power supplies into American power is going to do this regardless of the quality. The adapter is designed with 100 V in mind. Giving it 120 V is going to shave off those extra 20 V in the form of heat. If you plug it into a a 120 V to 100 V step down converter you won't have this issue.

On the switching vs linear argument, I've noticed that older bricks seems to reduce video noise considerably vs the newer switching power supplies.

[DirkSwizzler]

On the switching vs linear argument, I've noticed that older bricks seems to reduce video noise considerably vs the newer switching power supplies.

My understanding of linear vs switching WRT noise. Linear is hard to get wrong, switching is hard to get right. But, if you find a well built switching supply, you get greater efficiency and no leeching when the console is off. As well as the peace of mind of having fresh components for longer lifetime.

[jamisonia]

My understanding of linear vs switching WRT noise. Linear is hard to get wrong, switching is hard to get right. But, if you find a well built switching supply, you get greater efficiency and no leeching when the console is off. As well as the peace of mind of having fresh components for longer lifetime.

I may look into your solution for my PC Engine Duo-R. I currently use a 3rd party switching supply but the cord is hella short, and I'm not sure the quality is anything to write home about. That one you linked from Amazon, is it center positive already?

[DirkSwizzler]

My understanding of linear vs switching WRT noise. Linear is hard to get wrong, switching is hard to get right. But, if you find a well built switching supply, you get greater efficiency and no leeching when the console is off. As well as the peace of mind of having fresh components for longer lifetime.

I may look into your solution for my PC Engine Duo-R. I currently use a 3rd party switching supply but the cord is hella short, and I'm not sure the quality is anything to write home about. That one you linked from Amazon, is it center positive already?

Mine is, it frustratingly has no official markings. But when in doubt, test it out (with a multimeter).

[mickcris]

My understanding of linear vs switching WRT noise. Linear is hard to get wrong, switching is hard to get right. But, if you find a well built switching supply, you get greater efficiency and no leeching when the console is off. As well as the peace of mind of having fresh components for longer lifetime.

I may look into your solution for my PC Engine Duo-R. I currently use a 3rd party switching supply but the cord is hella short, and I'm not sure the quality is anything to write home about. That one you linked from Amazon, is it center positive already?

Its probably easier to get a PS2 slim power supply for the duo-r. dont have to worry about getting an adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-OEM-S ... 2932686557

[evil_ash_xero]

Are the ones made by Retrogamecave worthwhile?

Also, is the PS2 Slim one safe to use? I could use that in the meantime. I'd like to get something "just for it", though.

I'm using a Duo R, so keep that in mind.

[Lawfer]

Are the ones made by Retrogamecave worthwhile?

Also, is the PS2 Slim one safe to use? I could use that in the meantime. I'd like to get something "just for it", though.

I'm using a Duo R, so keep that in mind.

I replaced all my old AC Adapters with Retrogamecave ones for those that I could (they are not selling AC Adapters for the PSOne for example, so couldn't replace that one), they are smaller, lighter and more pratical than the originals (they are multivoltage), all I can say is that they work well, beyond that I am not an expert.

[evil_ash_xero]

Are the ones made by Retrogamecave worthwhile?

Also, is the PS2 Slim one safe to use? I could use that in the meantime. I'd like to get something "just for it", though.

I'm using a Duo R, so keep that in mind.

I replaced all my old AC Adapters with Retrogamecave ones for those that I could (they are not selling AC Adapters for the PSOne for example, so couldn't replace that one), they are smaller, lighter and more pratical than the originals (they are multivoltage), all I can say is that they work well, beyond that I am not an expert.

Thanks for the response. I have one ordered.

I wouldn't mind if someone could chime in about the PS2 thing. I would like to use it, safely, in the meantime. Been playing some Winds of Thunder and Jackie Chan.

[Lawfer]

I wouldn't mind if someone could chime in about the PS2 thing. I would like to use it, safely, in the meantime. Been playing some Winds of Thunder and Jackie Chan.

Just checked, it's not the same voltage:

PS2 AC Adapter: 8.5V/5.65A

PC Engine Duo-R AC Adapter: 9V/1A

[evil_ash_xero]

I wouldn't mind if someone could chime in about the PS2 thing. I would like to use it, safely, in the meantime. Been playing some Winds of Thunder and Jackie Chan.

Just checked, it's not the same voltage:

PS2 AC Adapter: 8.5V/5.65A

PC Engine Duo-R AC Adapter: 9V/1A

Well, darn. Thanks for letting me know. The gigantic adapter that it came with works, but I know it's not safe for the system.

[Fudoh]

you can safely try the PS2 brick, you only need to pay attention to the polarity (center positive is the standard since many years now), but quite a few consoles from the early 90s use center negative instead.

The increased amperage of the PSU is good thing (won't run hot this way) and the 0.5V drop in voltage shouldn't matter since the power is running throug a voltage converter first thing inside the system anyway.

[evil_ash_xero]

you can safely try the PS2 brick, you only need to pay attention to the polarity (center positive is the standard since many years now), but quite a few consoles from the early 90s use center negative instead.

The increased amperage of the PSU is good thing (won't run hot this way) and the 0.5V drop in voltage shouldn't matter since the power is running throug a voltage converter first thing inside the system anyway.

How can I check what the polarity is?

[SamIAm]

Internally, the Duo runs on 5V, and this is provided by a 7805 regulator that sits between the external power supply and virtually everything else in the system. (Actually, the Duo in particular has two of these that power different sections of the system.)

7805s have a minimum voltage you need to provide at their inputs so that they can maintain 5V at their outputs. What that is depends somewhat on how much current your system needs, but a safe number for just about anything is 7V. Higher voltages than that actually give you no advantage, and only waste energy; the 7805 literally turns the excess into heat. In fact, the maximum voltage that you can put into your system is actually determined by how hot the 7805 can get before it stops working.

Between the power supply and the 7805 is a diode that's there to keep you from frying your system by connecting a power supply with the polarity reversed. This diode will cause a small drop in voltage, which will probably be on the order of 0.7V. 7.5V power supplies are common, but because of the voltage drop at the diode, there is a tiny risk that they won't provide your system with enough power at peak draws. That's why if you can source a good supply that's just a little higher than 7.5V, you'll be in good shape. The 8.5V PS2 adapter is great, but if you look around, there are 8V and 7.8V regulated power supplies that were built for other devices you can use as well. The lower your voltage, the cooler your system will run.

Of course, there is also noise. 7805s reject noise very well at low frequencies, but high frequency noise can sail right through them. Regulated power supplies make lots of high frequency noise, but well-made ones will filter it out. One nice thing about PCE systems is that NEC put 100nf decoupling capacitors at the base of the 7805 inputs, which helps the noise situation a little. The SFC doesn't do this, which seems to make it more vulnerable to noise.

But you certainly don't have to match what the original power brick was labelled. As a matter a fact, if you measure the actual voltage levels of any old power brick for any old system, you'll see that numbers can be all over the place. That's the way it goes with unregulated supplies.

How can I check what the polarity is?

It'll be marked on the system itself. It ought to look something like this: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Polarity_symbols

[evil_ash_xero]

VERY helpful. Center positive it is.