BVM recapped. Overvoltage light on

[AndehX]

So I finished recapping my BVM with Nichicon/Rubycon/Panasonic capacitors, and when I power it up, All 3 lights blink. Overvoltage, Standby, Power.

Any ideas which caps could cause this? I did replace a few caps with slightly higher rated ones. like 4700uf replaced with 5600uf and 10v replaced with 25v. Would this matter?

[Syntax]

Did it work before the recap?

[AndehX]

yes.

[Syntax]

Then you have put a cap in backwards id say.

[AndehX]

Then you have put a cap in backwards id say.

ive checked them all. they're all good

[Bratwurst]

Check for solder balls/shorts, look into replacing all capacitors with higher-than-original farad ratings with their proper spec.

[xAzurexEonx]

Might also want to turn down the H.Stat (I believe) pot and brightness pots on the neckboard. Their current settings might now be outputting past the limit causing this.

[AndehX]

thanks for the advice guys, i got to the bottom of it. Can you believe it was a broken trace to one of the small 10uf caps on the power supply board? Yeah go figure. I must have done it when removing the old cap. I bridged it with a capacitor leg and its up and running! i've literally spent the entire day trying to get to the bottom of this. lol.

[xAzurexEonx]

Glad it was something simple.

[Syntax]

Job well done

[philexile]

Just out of curiosity – did you recap every cap on every board?

[AndehX]

Just out of curiosity – did you recap every cap on every board?

No. I have replacements for every electrolytic, except the big 450v one. I've since been told by a couple of people, not to replace with higher uf caps. Higher voltage is fine though. Is this true?

[philexile]

Did your monitor have any issues or were you doing preventative maintenance?

You should discharge the larger caps before touching or removing them. This is especially important on the power board. It would be dangerous not to do so.

There aren't any specific rules for BVM cap replacement, although generally more of the metal surface mounts fail. There are certain caps on the video and deflection board that can cause issues. Image quality is improved when those caps are replaced and the board data is reset. Some of the upgrade cards also have issues, such as the 21D and 24N.

If you want to check every capacitor, use a good ESR meter to try to find suspect caps, then take them out of circuit and check their values with a multimeter. That said: sometime bad caps will read as fine.

I almost did a total cap replacement like this, but a lot of the caps are OK. Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone because you can damage the boards unexpectedly – as you did.

Good luck!

[AndehX]

It has linearity and geometry issues, not major, but enough to irritate me. The recap is done now though. Would you recommend replacing the surface mounts too at some point?

[philexile]

It has linearity and geometry issues, not major, but enough to irritate me. The recap is done now though. Would you recommend replacing the surface mounts too at some point?

Yes, that would make more sense as those are the ones that fail more often then not. I wouldn't go nuts and recap all of them. Some of them are good and you'll be more likely to damage the surface mounts than the thru-hole caps.

Do you have solder tweezers or appropriate tools for working with surface mount components?

[GeekMan1222]

Just out of curiosity – did you recap every cap on every board?

No. I have replacements for every electrolytic, except the big 450v one. I've since been told by a couple of people, not to replace with higher uf caps. Higher voltage is fine though. Is this true?

Yes thats fine. The Voltage Rating iirc is for maximum voltage (until kaboom). The uF is your capacitance rating and you really dont want to be changing those values unless your absolutely certain what its for and the tolerances etc.

[AndehX]

Well the recap is done, and the monitor is back up and running. Honestly... I don't see much difference, lol. I guess the last resort for fixing the linearity is to replace the surface mounts on the RGB input board...

[philexile]

To fix issues with the image you have to recap both the VIDEO and DEFLECTION board. Don't go crazy replacing every cap though. Only certain ones are problematic. The cap kits that SavonPat sells on eBay will give you the list.

Also, you need to "reload" both the boards in the Maintenance menu after the recap is complete and then make your image adjustments from there.

That should fix your issues.

[AndehX]

Also, you need to "reload" both the boards in the Maintenance menu after the recap is complete and then make your image adjustments from there.

That should fix your issues.

I've recapped the deflection and video boards (minus the SMD caps on the video board)
interesting that you mention reloading the boards via the maintenance menu. I'll have to look into that. Do you mean factory reset them?

[philexile]

Hi, a lot of the problematic caps are the SMDs. Those will need to be replaced too. I'd recommend getting the kits. It is easier to damage your board removing/replacing SMD caps than thruhole. It's best to replace only the ones that are failing and not the entire board.

Yes, you have to reload the board data after this is all done. Check the service manual.

Good luck

[AndehX]

There are no kits for my BVM. Only the F1U. I live in the UK too.

[philexile]

What model are you working on?

[leonk]

when you said SMD capacitors, you mean electrolytic SMd caps, right? I can't imagine ceramic ones failing any time soon.

For those interested, ebay seller is is savon-pat

[philexile]

Hey Leon, yes, I was referring to the electrolytic SMDs –

[AndehX]

What model are you working on?

20G1E

[xga]

20G1E

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I would have thought that the 20G1 would use the exact same RGB input and deflection boards as a 20F1. Worth checking with Savon-pat, regardless.

[AndehX]

20G1E

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I would have thought that the 20G1 would use the exact same RGB input and deflection boards as a 20F1. Worth checking with Savon-pat, regardless.

They don't use the exact same board unfortunately, and I messaged Savon a few weeks ago about it and he doesn't have a kit for my monitor

[philexile]

Hello,

I used to think the G monitors were just 800 tv line tubes, but the monitor themselves are designed differently. I think they were marketed by Sony as more of a budget option.

I'd recommend actually calling Pat on the phone to see if he'll recap the boards for you. You will have to ship them overseas but maybe it's worth it to you.

Alternately, you could recap both boards entirely yourself, but you'd run the risk of damaging them.

You could also learn to live with it - or sell it to someone that doesn't mind and pick up another BVM if it continues to annoy you.

Good luck

[AndehX]

Hello,

I used to think the G monitors were just 800 tv line tubes, but the monitor themselves are designed differently. I think they were marketed by Sony as more of a budget option.

I'd recommend actually calling Pat on the phone to see if he'll recap the boards for you. You will have to ship them overseas but maybe it's worth it to you.

Alternately, you could recap both boards entirely yourself, but you'd run the risk of damaging them.

You could also learn to live with it - or sell it to someone that doesn't mind and pick up another BVM if it continues to annoy you.

Good luck

I've already recapped the power supply and deflection board myself. I can do the input board myself too, I just need the caps

[philexile]

So you've replaced all the elctolytic capacitors, including the surface mounts?