Super NES Junior with Voultar's board:

[FBX]

Sorry for posting a self-high-five, but I'm relatively new to modding and soldering on more active hobby level, so I was thrilled with how well Voultar's new RGBSV board installed into my Super NES Junior. This little console now has S-Video, RGB, and digital audio!





My apologies if the electrical tape isn't kosher, but I just needed to use something temporary that wouldn't damage the board. I don't have any hot glue, and I certainly don't want to super glue it. I'm told there is a better glue type to use for securing lines to the board, but still waiting to hear on the details for this.

At any rate, the picture quality is phenomenal! This is literally as good as it gets for the SNES until the new mini comes out and it gets hacked.

-FBX

[Hoagtech]

Sorry for posting a self-high-five, but I'm relatively new to modding and soldering on more active hobby level, so I was thrilled with how well Voultar's new RGBSV board installed into my Super NES Junior. This little console now has S-Video, RGB, and digital audio!





My apologies if the electrical tape isn't kosher, but I just needed to use something temporary that wouldn't damage the board. I don't have any hot glue, and I certainly don't want to super glue it. I'm told there is a better glue type to use for securing lines to the board, but still waiting to hear on the details for this.

At any rate, the picture quality is phenomenal! This is literally as good as it gets for the SNES until the new mini comes out and it gets hacked.

-FBX

It's better because its not emulated like the SNES classic mini. Less input lag

Wheres your CRT FBX? I would love to see what the RGB quality of Voultars board looks like. An LCD pic would be cool too.

Nice work on the soldering. Do you use Flux and a braid? Also do you use a soldering work station or a hot live iron?

[FBX]

Wheres your CRT FBX? I would love to see what the RGB quality of Voultars board looks like. An LCD pic would be cool too.

Nice work on the soldering. Do you use Flux and a braid? Also do you use a soldering work station or a hot live iron?

I've got a PVM, but I need to get a new BNC breakout cable for it. I'll get a snapshot going later tonight after I finish raid in Warcraft.

I use flux, and right now I use a braid and cheap pump for desoldering, but I'm going to be buying a full-on desoldering gun soon. I use a Weller soldering station.

[FBX]

Okay here are a few unfiltered screenshots of 4x Framemeister with the modded junior:

Spoiler

The above is my own menu design for the SD2SNES that I use.

Spoiler

Spoiler

Keep in mind all the noise you see in those images is Framemeister side and not console side. It really looks better live, but this is the best I can do until my OSSC finally arrives in October.

-FBX

[AndehX]

As I said on facebook, very nice work. Nice clean solder work. Probably couldn't have done it better myself

[FBX]

As I said on facebook, very nice work. Nice clean solder work. Probably couldn't have done it better myself

Thanks! It's okay work, but not anywhere near as clean and effortless as Voultar's work. I'm not really happy with the flux pen I use, so I'm thinking of switching to a drop bottle.

[cyborc]

As I said on facebook, very nice work. Nice clean solder work. Probably couldn't have done it better myself

Thanks! It's okay work, but not anywhere near as clean and effortless as Voultar's work. I'm not really happy with the flux pen I use, so I'm thinking of switching to a drop bottle.

Nice work! I have my board but won't be able to install until this weekend. I can definitely recommend switching to a drop bottle. I didn't care for my flux pen either and I'm glad I switched.

[evil_ash_xero]

Hmm...how much better does this look than your average RGB modded mini?
I had mine modded by GameTech, and other than being a bit bright, I can't really imagine it looking much better.

[tjstogy]

I don't see the game series collections

Okay here are a few unfiltered screenshots of 4x Framemeister with the modded junior:

Spoiler

The above is my own menu design for the SD2SNES that I use.

[FBX]

I don't see the game series collections

LOL yeah, I didn't want duplicates of the ROMs just because such-and-such game reviewer likes a certain top 10 and whatnot. I just wanted a no-nonsense ROM list, and thankfully the folder structure Smokemonster uses allowed me to simply delete the game series folders.

I had mine modded by GameTech, and other than being a bit bright, I can't really imagine it looking much better.

It's probably not going to be a huge difference. What Voultar's board does is ensure all lines are properly attenuated to within the accepted standard voltage range. This means no worries about colors getting washed out or having ringing artifacts. He was quite obsessive in measuring everything to make for the perfect RGB output on these boards.

[tjstogy]

You tried it lately? I added a ton of cool stuff. You can delete what you don’t want of course. To each his own.

I don't see the game series collections

LOL yeah, I didn't want duplicates of the ROMs just because such-and-such game reviewer likes a certain top 10 and whatnot. I just wanted a no-nonsense ROM list, and thankfully the folder structure Smokemonster uses allowed me to simply delete the game series folders.
.

[FBX]

I'm currently downloading the latest sets. I'll check them out when they finish.

Cheers!

-FBX

[RGB0b]

Thanks for posting your work. This is exactly the message all the good modders have been trying to spread: You're new at modding, but took your time, asked questions and ended up with an excellent install. It's not easy to do the first few tries, but it's absolutely possible for a non-expert.

[speedlolita]

Hmm...how much better does this look than your average RGB modded mini?
I had mine modded by GameTech, and other than being a bit bright, I can't really imagine it looking much better.

Voultar's boards utilise a THS7374 chip instead of the once popular THS7314. In theory this should lead to a sharper image due to having no low pass filter, or rather, one that can be disabled.

It also features a fourth channel, which can be used for composite sync.

I've got a N64RGB installed in my N64 which uses a THS7374 with the filter turned off and it is the best I've seen the console look. Should really get around to trying that deblur functionality mind...

If you have a THS7314 already though (which I imagine you would) it probably isn't worth the outlay, the difference won't be massive.

[FBX]

Thanks for posting your work. This is exactly the message all the good modders have been trying to spread: You're new at modding, but took your time, asked questions and ended up with an excellent install. It's not easy to do the first few tries, but it's absolutely possible for a non-expert.

Aw shucks, Bob

I was so thrilled with how all my mod work is going that I decided to tackle a job I had been a little scared of confronting: Complete surface mount restoration of the missing csync circuit in my 1CHIP-03 SNES. Other than my OCD being a little annoyed over not getting all the components perfectly horizontal, the job was a success, and csync is functioning flawlessly!



You can see in the upper right I have also added in resistors to the RGB lines to attenuate the brightness. RGB is looking fantastic in both the Framemeister and on my 20-inch PVM monitor. As such, I'm not going to worry about adding in a Voultar board. It's simply not needed here, and zoom-ins to 30x scale on the Framemeister show it is every bit as sharp as my SNES junior.

Also on this 1CHIP-03 console I did my own digital audio mod. Pics of that below:





Ironically the hardest job of any mod I've done thus far was desoldering the RF box from the SNES. This is because I tried to do it with cheap pumps and braids, and the sucker would NOT cooperate. So the next tool I'm getting is a professional desoldering gun. I know a lot of people talk about various techniques of getting the cheap tools to work, but then I look at videos of pros using desoldering guns and removing hardware in SECONDS, and I realize I don't even want to dick with anything less.

[mvsfan]

I have a Hakko Fr-300. its one of the best soldering tools ive bought. It de-solders in seconds.

Much better than the cheap radio shack bulb iron i was using before.

I also recently bought a hakko presto soldering iron. unlike my radioshack iron wich i had to wait about 10 minutes for it to fully heat up when i first turned it on, this thing heats up in about 10 seconds. Frys electronics has them for $30. much less than anywhere else.

[evil_ash_xero]

Thanks for the responses.
I have a hard time seeing much of a difference, as the picture is SO sharp already.
It looks better than almost all of my other systems that are hooked up via RGB.

I'm still waiting for his Mega Video chip. I don't know if he's still working on it though. It's not up on his site anymore.

[FBX]

I have a Hakko Fr-300. its one of the best soldering tools ive bought. It de-solders in seconds.

Much better than the cheap radio shack bulb iron i was using before.

That's the same one I'm going to snag. I've seen demos that made me drool with envy.

[numbski]

Wheres your CRT FBX? I would love to see what the RGB quality of Voultars board looks like. An LCD pic would be cool too.

Nice work on the soldering. Do you use Flux and a braid? Also do you use a soldering work station or a hot live iron?

I've got a PVM, but I need to get a new BNC breakout cable for it. I'll get a snapshot going later tonight after I finish raid in Warcraft.

I use flux, and right now I use a braid and cheap pump for desoldering, but I'm going to be buying a full-on desoldering gun soon. I use a Weller soldering station.

See, this is where you start a gofundme or something. You give the community so much, I think we can swing getting you an 808.


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