Numbski's worklog thread
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numbski
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:51 pm
Numbski's worklog thread
Was trying to decide between adding my projects to the RGB TV Mod or start my own. If the mods disapprove, I will move over there. Considering I have 5 projects going though - this seemed appropriate.
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numbski
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:51 pm
Numbski's worklog thread
MOD COMPLETE!
Philips/Magnavox 27TP83 C101
Chassis: 27V505-00AA
User Manual: http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/5/54 ... b33cc4.pdf
Service Manual: http://s1.manualzz.com/store/data/00091 ... mp;p=86400
Service Menu Code: 0-6-2-5-9-6-Menu.
(per page 39 of service manual)
http://imgur.com/AAQ7yCQ
http://imgur.com/LRjd1hJ
http://imgur.com/3MtUSni
Page 69 (heh) of the service manual appears to tell us where we can input RGB.
http://imgur.com/RGPnBMX
http://imgur.com/oXx9SYE
IC200 on the mainboard - TDA8369 (Jungle IC):
http://imgur.com/8tEsr6d
http://www.datasheet4u.com/datasheet-pd ... ?id=770219
From there, we can see that the video processor IC accepts RGB and blanking on pins 23,24,25, and 26. Blanking goes to pin 11 for logic high.
4PDT - wired with three red, green, and blue lines, and then 2 white for blanking pole, and pin 11 throw on the jungle IC.
The mod here is dead simple. Remove from the board jumpers B64 (Blue), B86 (Green), and B90 (Red). These three jumpers tie the CPU's OSD TXT lines to the jungle IC.
On the right side of the jumper (nearest to the jungle IC), solder your red, green, and blue pole wires. On the left side, your red, green, and blue throw line for your "off state", like this:
Next you need to tie your remaining pole to blanking pin, and your "on state" remaining throw to logic high (pin 11 continuity). I chose to do this by lifting the the positive leg of the capacitor immediately adjacent to pin 11 for logic high, which is C264 - which I then fed a spare component leg into the hole, then tied the cap's leg and my pole wire to it. For blanking, I fed a wire through the board's latch hole for the horizontal yoke to the underside of the board and carefully soldered to the pin's leg, securing it with hot glue. I bent the latch for the horizontal yoke plug back to keep it out of the way. I may choose to route this wore differently before I give this set away.
Now for the "on state" RGB lines. This is slightly more complicated. I took 3 10uF ceramic capacitors (no polarity), and 3 75ohm resistors hooked a pair of each to the end to each of my remaining RGB lines. I took the other end of the resistors, tied those together, and then soldered them to the most easily accessible ground I could find. The remaining ends of the capacitors are then run to your new SCART or in my case, mini din 8 connector. Like this:
We need ground, left and right audio, and composite video/sync on the SCART/mini din connector as well. Ground can be easily had by tying into the ground end of your resistor bundle. Composite video is tied to the yellow RCA jack for line in on the back - same goes for left and right audio.
That should do it! I use mini-din 8 connectors on the TVs - sharing audio and video grounds using the same pinout as the XRGB Mini, and then provide a din8 to SCART female dongle on request. This keeps cost down, since I do this for parts cost only.
Philips/Magnavox 27TP83 C101
Chassis: 27V505-00AA
User Manual: http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/5/54 ... b33cc4.pdf
Service Manual: http://s1.manualzz.com/store/data/00091 ... mp;p=86400
Service Menu Code: 0-6-2-5-9-6-Menu.
(per page 39 of service manual)
http://imgur.com/AAQ7yCQ
http://imgur.com/LRjd1hJ
http://imgur.com/3MtUSni
Page 69 (heh) of the service manual appears to tell us where we can input RGB.
http://imgur.com/RGPnBMX
http://imgur.com/oXx9SYE
IC200 on the mainboard - TDA8369 (Jungle IC):
http://imgur.com/8tEsr6d
http://www.datasheet4u.com/datasheet-pd ... ?id=770219
From there, we can see that the video processor IC accepts RGB and blanking on pins 23,24,25, and 26. Blanking goes to pin 11 for logic high.
4PDT - wired with three red, green, and blue lines, and then 2 white for blanking pole, and pin 11 throw on the jungle IC.
The mod here is dead simple. Remove from the board jumpers B64 (Blue), B86 (Green), and B90 (Red). These three jumpers tie the CPU's OSD TXT lines to the jungle IC.
On the right side of the jumper (nearest to the jungle IC), solder your red, green, and blue pole wires. On the left side, your red, green, and blue throw line for your "off state", like this:
Next you need to tie your remaining pole to blanking pin, and your "on state" remaining throw to logic high (pin 11 continuity). I chose to do this by lifting the the positive leg of the capacitor immediately adjacent to pin 11 for logic high, which is C264 - which I then fed a spare component leg into the hole, then tied the cap's leg and my pole wire to it. For blanking, I fed a wire through the board's latch hole for the horizontal yoke to the underside of the board and carefully soldered to the pin's leg, securing it with hot glue. I bent the latch for the horizontal yoke plug back to keep it out of the way. I may choose to route this wore differently before I give this set away.
Now for the "on state" RGB lines. This is slightly more complicated. I took 3 10uF ceramic capacitors (no polarity), and 3 75ohm resistors hooked a pair of each to the end to each of my remaining RGB lines. I took the other end of the resistors, tied those together, and then soldered them to the most easily accessible ground I could find. The remaining ends of the capacitors are then run to your new SCART or in my case, mini din 8 connector. Like this:
We need ground, left and right audio, and composite video/sync on the SCART/mini din connector as well. Ground can be easily had by tying into the ground end of your resistor bundle. Composite video is tied to the yellow RCA jack for line in on the back - same goes for left and right audio.
That should do it! I use mini-din 8 connectors on the TVs - sharing audio and video grounds using the same pinout as the XRGB Mini, and then provide a din8 to SCART female dongle on request. This keeps cost down, since I do this for parts cost only.
-
numbski
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:51 pm
Re: Numbski's worklog thread
Panasonic CT-2701G
User Manual: https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/31/30 ... ake=binary
Might be the service manual (or a scam, hard to tell on mobile):
http://www.service-manual-downloadsly.c ... 5&pathid=0
http://imgur.com/0KyXBfd
http://imgur.com/vtHZt7f
http://imgur.com/P3qo7p5
This TV only operates in the YUV color space, but rather than drive the guns directly (will do that in a later mod), this one I will be using a Wei-Ya universal arcade chassis, just because I have a machine sitting here with a chip in the tube's glass and will be a good opportunity to document how to do the conversion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User Manual: https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/31/30 ... ake=binary
Might be the service manual (or a scam, hard to tell on mobile):
http://www.service-manual-downloadsly.c ... 5&pathid=0
http://imgur.com/0KyXBfd
http://imgur.com/vtHZt7f
http://imgur.com/P3qo7p5
This TV only operates in the YUV color space, but rather than drive the guns directly (will do that in a later mod), this one I will be using a Wei-Ya universal arcade chassis, just because I have a machine sitting here with a chip in the tube's glass and will be a good opportunity to document how to do the conversion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk