PAL snes motherboard DA11?

[chomel]

I'm looking for the reference of a component on SNSP-CPU02 SNES. I'm not sure if it's DA11 or D1 (most likely DA11). It's the one circled in red.

Does anyone know what it is?

[kel]

I think it is the voltage multiplier diode array on the +12v circuit for the multi out connector, in which case it would be a DAN217 switching diode IIRC but I don't have my SNES disassembled at the moment so I can't be sure. Maybe someone else can confirm?

[chomel]

I'm having a hard finding a new DAN217. I foundswitching diodes on conrad website. Would this one do the job?
http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/1529 ... archDetail

Here is the datasheet for the DAN217
http://rohmfs.rohm.com/en/products/data ... dan217.pdf

[kel]

I'm having a hard finding a new DAN217. I foundswitching diodes on conrad website. Would this one do the job?
http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/1529 ... archDetail

No, unfortunately it's nothing like the DAN217.

Have you tried looking here?

http://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_odkw=dan ... e&_sacat=0

[chomel]

Thanks for the link. I also found another website. Would this one be ok?
http://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/ROHM ... TljI3xc%3d

Or one of these: http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=dan217

I also took a decent picture inside my console.
The part between 1 and 2 which is broken let the current flow in both directions.

[kel]

Although the others on the second link including the one on the first link are generally the same apart from the ratings I'm not really sure what the circuit specs are so to be on the safe side I can only advise to replace like for like:

http://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/ROHM ... gTKPOWY%3d

Also at least that way you know for sure that the package will be the correct size and not end up with something too big or small to fit the footprint of the pads.

Mouser could work out quite expensive for that one part though unless you are ordering a bunch of other stuff with it due to the shipping charge which is only waivered if you spend over 50 Euro if I am not mistaken.

If your not bothered about automatic 4:3 switching on you TV or if your scaler/device doesn't support it anyway then you could just remove the bad diode and leave it at that. In the future you could maybe even use pin 3 on the multi out connector that the diode was connected to for a Csync mod of some sort.

[chomel]

I saw that shipping is far too expensive. But I have several things to order. I hope it will cost 50€ or more. ^^

You say that the console is supposed to work without the diode. Should it be working with the broken one? Because it's not. I hope there's nothing esle defective.

[kel]

Yes the console should work fine without the diode, it's only there for the +12v output on the multi out connector. It's hard to say whether taking the diode out will bring the console back to life or not, maybe if you are lucky. I suppose there is only one way to find out. I can't remember off the top of my head exactly how the circuit is configured but if memory serves then one of the pins on the diode is connected to the AC input before it is rectified so there is a chance that if it shorted then it could have fed AC into the rest of the console and fried something. At the very least the fuse may be dead, have you tested the fuse yet?

[chomel]

Fuse did melt but I changed it. The new one works and did not melt when I tried to turn the console on. I'll try to take out the diode one of these days.

By the way. I haven't thanked you yet for the help.

[kel]

It may also be a good idea to check if the 7805 voltage regulator is not blown at this point, just connect your multimeter on the DC setting between the O and G pins to see if it still has +5v. If the new fuse is not blowing then it sounds like the diode has already done it's damage and is probably an open circuit now so if it's not powering up then it would be worth checking other things until you get around to taking the diode out.

You're welcome, glad I could help.