Component Switch wanted , what quality ones are out there ?

[s8n]

hi members , i got a second hand Sony Trinitron CRT a couple of weeks ago and i want to get a Component Switch as im tired of connecting different cables to it. So yeah im after a Component Switch with 4 inputs and is of quality , i don't want to loose picture quality otherwise i will probably stick with what im doing now.


chat soon

[Koop]

hi members , i got a second hand Sony Trinitron CRT a couple of weeks ago and i want to get a Component Switch as im tired of connecting different cables to it. So yeah im after a Component Switch with 4 inputs and is of quality , i don't want to loose picture quality otherwise i will probably stick with what im doing now.


chat soon

I think you'd want to look for one that is independently powered. I actually have a monoprice one I need to sell since I've switched away from my CRT. Let me know if you're interested.

[Galgomite]

hi members , i got a second hand Sony Trinitron CRT a couple of weeks ago and i want to get a Component Switch as im tired of connecting different cables to it. So yeah im after a Component Switch with 4 inputs and is of quality , i don't want to loose picture quality otherwise i will probably stick with what im doing now.


chat soon

I've had two higher-end consumer pelican selectors (they had ethernet jacks, a power adapter, and I think even optical inputs). I think they're both called System Selector Pro. Of the two, the older, one with light-up buttons (with replacable overlays!) worked perfectly, the later model with an LCD screen and remote had much more interference (though CRTs hide these things better than the HDTV I was using).

[blizzz]

If you're from Europe you could look for a "Hama YUV Selector AV 760". Dirt cheap (1€ on eBay) and I can't detect any change in quality even when comparing lossless recordings.

[bobrocks95]

I've had several over the years and I still haven't found one I like wholeheartedly

-Bought two of the Monoprice switches, thinking the first one was broken, and they both had added a ton of noise and interference (sorry Koop, not trying to lose you a sale. Accordingly, I have two sitting in a closet not being used as well)

-Had the Pelican System Selector Pro, the older switch-based one Galgomite mentioned. It added noise that was visible on my plasma, and may or may not be visible on a CRT. Probably worth a shot if you find a cheap one, though it depends on how much of a stickler you are for quality. No brightness degradation, but a bit of noise.

-Currently have the Audio Authority 1166, a switch that apparently retails for $2,000 which is baffling. I paid about $100 and my display de-syncs on white screens because it boosts the signal to non-standard levels (why), the component to DVI conversion doesn't work properly with my display (may be a YCbCr incompatibility- for $2,000 let me choose what output format I want though!), and the autoswitch functionality didn't work well they told me so they thought it was a good idea to completely remove the feature AND make it so you can't install an older firmware that still has it. From what I've heard the signal boosting may apply to all their switches, while my other two complaints of course don't if you're just looking at their basic component switches. De-syncs probably wouldn't happen on a CRT but still indicate the signal is being modified.

So I can't recommend anything really, but those are some things to keep in mind on a few common switches.

[Gered]

If you're from Europe you could look for a "Hama YUV Selector AV 760". Dirt cheap (1€ on eBay) and I can't detect any change in quality even when comparing lossless recordings.

Huh, interesting. Looks really similar to a GE 73344 which I have. Wonder if GE just rebranded the Hama model? Either way, the GE one I have also works fantastic, can't notice any signal degradation with it whatsoever.

[ZellSF]

I like my Zektor HDS4. No image quality loss that I have noticed(but I'm far from the pickiest person here). No desyncs either since it's a passive design (note that it still has IR switching).

You can find them pretty frequently on US eBay. HDS4.1 is the same model but with push buttons in addition to IR. HDS4.2 adds a buffered amplified second output.

[Koop]

I've had several over the years and I still haven't found one I like wholeheartedly

-Bought two of the Monoprice switches, thinking the first one was broken, and they both had added a ton of noise and interference (sorry Koop, not trying to lose you a sale. Accordingly, I have two sitting in a closet not being used as well)

lol no by all means if it's shit I'd rather toss it in the trash. I honestly never took it out of the box so I dunno how well it works

I just had done research that said a powered switch worked best. Looks like maybe I was foooooled.

[bobrocks95]

lol no by all means if it's shit I'd rather toss it in the trash. I honestly never took it out of the box so I dunno how well it works

I just had done research that said a powered switch worked best. Looks like maybe I was foooooled.

Generally speaking powered is the way to go, but Monoprice clearly did not know what they were doing with that switch. I knew hardly anything about gaming A/V stuff back when I tried mine and immediately thought "Wow, that looks terrible" compared to directly plugged into the TV.

Mechanical switches have common problems with brightness decrease due to increased resistive load, but I don't think it's inherent to them being mechanical, lots are just poorly designed. Clearly powered switches can be poorly designed too.

[Einzelherz]

If you're from Europe you could look for a "Hama YUV Selector AV 760". Dirt cheap (1€ on eBay) and I can't detect any change in quality even when comparing lossless recordings.

Huh, interesting. Looks really similar to a GE 73344 which I have. Wonder if GE just rebranded the Hama model? Either way, the GE one I have also works fantastic, can't notice any signal degradation with it whatsoever.

I have two of these GEs, one for my Plasma and one for my PVM. I love them to death, especially because they're cheap and simple.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-73344-Switch-E ... B003ANXHWM has it in stock.

[22point8]

why not buy a vga switch box and some yuv to db15 cables, and a separe audio switch?

[Kyle]

I have two of these GEs, one for my Plasma and one for my PVM. I love them to death, especially because they're cheap and simple.

+1 I have one of these and have no issues with it. Works reliably with no signal loss.

[bobrocks95]

why not buy a vga switch box and some yuv to db15 cables, and a separe audio switch?

Re-read your sentence, because that's an awful lot of extra things to get lol. That would probably be a last resort solution.

[Smashbro29]

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=1 ... 1&format=2

I've been using this guy for years, nothing seems different using it. It just does what it should.

[mvsfan]

Joytech JS965C. high quality, externally powered component switch. it also has 7 inputs, 1 output.

it also has an lcd on it that tells you what input your switching to.

not only that, but you can re-name the inputs for each one of your consoles.

unfortunately they no longer sell them new but i see them come up on ebay sometimes.

[BONKERS]

Anyone have experience with these?
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-CPNT ... deo+switch
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-SW201-Comp ... deo+switch
http://www.amazon.com/Component-Digital ... deo+switch
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-40697-Compone ... deo+switch