[solved] Mushihimesama pcb color problem ? Or too bright ?

[Xyga]

Yo!

So I've got that Mushihimesame pcb I planned to sell but I remembered vaguely it had a slightly off output last time I used it, too bright and with a green color tint.

Just wired it to my Sigma Raijin today to double-check and indeed the image is way too bright with a green tint.

I thought maybe it's the same issue System11 described here: http://blog.system11.org/?p=355

But I went and wired another cv1000 pcb to compare, Ibara, which happens to have brightness and contrast controls in the test menu.
What I found is that if the contrast is set too high the same thing happens.

I'd like to do the same for my Mushi pcb and lower the contrast output, but I also recalled it doesn't feature contrast/brighness settings (or am I wrong and just missed them ?)

Not really happy with the idea of having to change/solder new parts on the pcb even if it doesn't look too hard to do, but I'm not very good at soldering.

Please advise.

EDIT: pics of my Mushi pcb:


Now Ibara pcb for comparison:

[Strikers1945guy]

Could be the issue System11 fixed with that Futari PCB. Apparently lots of the cave SH3 pcbs end up with some sort of colour issues down the road unfortunately. I've only seen them on Mushi & Mushi Futari boards though strangely enough.

Pics?

[Xyga]

Pics?

I'll bring some tomorrow.

[Xyga]

UP with some pics.

As you can see in the first Mushi pic (the one w/ a grid) there's a darker zone which is not affected by the super high brightness and green tint.

(Again note that if I push Ibara's internal contrast setting in the test menu, Ibara too will look overbright and green)

This stuff could be happening because the Mushi's output is too powerful and there's nothing to tame it.
It wasn't like that in the beginning when I got it, though it was brighter than my other pcb's by default.

[Strikers1945guy]

I'm not a genius with this stuff but what kind of monitor are you using with your supergun? Any idea how to change all that stuff on the monitors end?

Do sigma superguns have a voltage adjustment knob? Pretty sure my AV7000 or whatever did but dunno about a Raijin.

Or my suggestions could be completely useless !

[Xyga]

It's a standard european scart rgb crt tv. I have other ones and it's the same on those.

Dunno for the Raijin, I only made sure it's feeding 5V, never touched anything else as it was always working perfectly.

Wondered a bit some years ago but never found a complete guide or translated manual.

[Strikers1945guy]

Here's an old link to a topic where a few people had this problem and others offering advice. Think he fixed it but his method seemed a little weird to me. All your dip switches in the correct place?

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... ilit=dpful

Hopefully something here helps you. If it's the same problem the Futari board System11 fixed I don't think it can be properly diagnosed without an oscilloscope?

[Xyga]

All dip switches are 'on'.
#4 on S2 make the image turn blue when off, so it's not the culprit.
No idea what #1 #2 and #3 do...

There's a single switch on S1, no idea what it does as well.

Only thing I've just noticed is that near the output I have two red LED's lit, not one, don't remember if it's normal or not.

PS: about the Raijin there really doesn't seem to be anything to control the output signal levels, but again it's fine with other pcb's.
And slighly changing the voltage doens't change a thing. I let it at 4.99V

[Strikers1945guy]

All dip switches are 'on'.
#4 on S2 make the image turn blue when off, so it's not the culprit.
No idea what #1 #2 and #3 do...

There's a single switch on S1, no idea what it does as well.

Only thing I've just noticed is that near the output I have two red LED's lit, not one, don't remember if it's normal or not.

PS: about the Raijin there really doesn't seem to be anything to control the output signal levels, but again it's fine with other pcb's.
And slighly changing the voltage doens't change a thing. I let it at 4.99V

Yeah you can only adjust the 5V, not the signal output, sorry about that.

As for the 2 light thing, I fired up my DeathSmiles PCB this morning as I've got it seu up with my supergun set up and it's got 2 red LED lights going. Not sure about other SH3 PCBs, but I don't think it really matters?

[Xyga]

As for the 2 light thing, I fired up my DeathSmiles PCB this morning as I've got it seu up with my supergun set up and it's got 2 red LED lights going. Not sure about other SH3 PCBs, but I don't think it really matters?

Dunno, my Ibara pcb's only got one lit when running.

[Strikers1945guy]

Also I remember seeing this a little while ago

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53273

Guy had somewhat similar color issues with his Deathsmiles Mega Black Label PCB. Dont think it was the same problem as the Futari board System11 fixed as I believe I read somewhere he looked at this guys PCB as well but couldn't determine the issue. Although his PCB looks to be in way worse shape with the color problem than yours.

[Xyga]

Nope... I'm afraid it's narrowing itself down to changing those little color amps... something I don't think I can do in the end. :/ (it's really too small, don't have the proper tools)

EDIT: also cared to clean up the jamma pins, only difference I've noticed is that voltage went from 4.99V to 5.01V pcb side lol. ^^

[Xyga]

*cough* trying to find ideas to go around the issue.

Can't I use a multimeter to test those little color amps ? Oscilloscope is a no-no.

I wonder if I can get around those with resistors or potentiometers, but I'd need to know the values needed and where to solder of course.

[rtw]

*cough* trying to find ideas to go around the issue.

Can't I use a multimeter to test those little color amps ? Oscilloscope is a no-no.

You can use a multi meter if you can get the CV1000 to display a solid colour...

Go to the "TEST MENU" select "4. COLOR" and snap a picture of the color bars.
Then do the same with IBARA, enter "TEST MODE" and select "SCREEN TEST"

[Xyga]

Ok so mystery probably solved;

By switching crt's I found that simply reducing contrast on the tv, which is too high by default from the pcb anyway, brings back perfectly normal colors.
It simply works like that on a quite generic Clayton crt tv (11ak30 chassis) I have, when it doesn't on the Thomson I was using for taking pictures (ITC008 chassis btw).
Couldn't fix it on that Thomson, apparently neither the normal picture menu brightness/contrast commands, nor the service menu gain and peak controls, will help.

So the pcb has a normal color output, just too powerful for some shitty digital chassis.
I feel tired, or stupid dunno, maybe both.

EDIT: just to confirm: tried the S-video output of the Raijin and it's all perfect.
Also opened the Raijin to have a look at the RGB out, and there are only 75 Ohm resitors on the RGB lines. And not potentiometers to adjust of course.
I need to mod the Raijin one of tthose days, I'm guessing it's the most rational route.

[Strikers1945guy]

Nice ! Glad you got it sorted out man

[Xyga]

Yup, finally.

I was about to sell it to OlDirty so I tried the board to make sure it's okay, then I was like FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUU.

Bloody Thomson TV though, gave me a scare for nothing, it was given to me this summer by a buddy, like new and a perfect 25" fit on my 'gaming desk', but I have yet to learn about some of its quirks.

Anyway I'll kiss my Mushi goodbye tomorrow morning, it's going to its new master.