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 Post subject: Vogatek Supergun Mk.III
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:55 pm 


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I was getting ready to order all the part to build my first supergun, but then I found this on ebay - Supergun MkIII. Bought one today since it was cheap, compact, has MVS support, Mono/Stereo switch, and RGB scart. Basically everything I was planing to build into my own supergun. For the price it just sounds too good to be true. Anyone else have one of these? Any problems?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:27 pm 


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I have an older board revision of this (the one with megadrive controller inputs). It's well put together and works as advertised. Dirt cheap too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:02 am 



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Why is there a separate audio output plug?
Is audio output also part of the scart plug?

When I built my cable, I routed the audio from the jamma plug directly to the scart plug (pins 2 & 6 IIRC).


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:46 am 


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nem wrote:
I have an older board revision of this (the one with megadrive controller inputs). It's well put together and works as advertised. Dirt cheap too.


That's cool. I've spoken with other owners of Vogatek SGs and feedback is mostly positive. It's missing few features like the kick harness and an attenuation circuit but I think it's a perfect starter for newbies. I have no problem building a SG myself but I would've spent more on the parts + shipping than for one Vogatek MK.III, and I'm still under my initial budget. The leftover money I used to order a MVS MV-1C and Metal Slug X to test the SG once it arrives. I'm crossing my fingers that I won't run into problems.

CC_Devil wrote:
Why is there a separate audio output plug?
Is audio output also part of the scart plug?

When I built my cable, I routed the audio from the jamma plug directly to the scart plug (pins 2 & 6 IIRC).


There's a separate audio jack because there's no attenuator to dampen the audio to line level. Otherwise outputting the audio to TV speakers or any other amplifier with blow up. It's a little inconvenient that I have to go buy some 8ohm passive speakers but at least they're cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:00 pm 



Joined: 26 Jan 2005
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A pair of 20w or 30w passive powered speakers rated at 8 ohms will work just fine with such a Vogatek Mark III Supergun setup -- would be comparable "speaker-wise" to what is setup inside a woodie or Japanese candy cabinet setup. ^_~

Such a Taito G-Net mobo setup can handle a pair of 100w passive powered stereo bookshelf speakers directly to the stereo output pinout without breaking a sweat. That is some serious wattage right there, folks. ^_~

A MAK (Multi Arcade Konsole) supergun setup is also another fine alternative to consider for arcade PCB hobbyists just starting out and getting their feet wet -- it is priced reasonably as well.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~


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 Post subject: how do i convert scart rgb to composite/s-video
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:10 pm 


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ok, i know i need a RGB to Composite/S-Video convertor to use the Vogatek MKIII http://cgi.ebay.com/NeoGeo-MVS-and-JAMM ... .m63.l1177 with a ntsc TV (since i live in the states) the question is : where do i solder it to on the motherboard say if i get a JROK video convertor http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
... thanks


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 Post subject: Re: how do i convert scart rgb to composite/s-video
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:04 pm 


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sourdiesel wrote:
ok, i know i need a RGB to Composite/S-Video convertor to use the Vogatek MKIII http://cgi.ebay.com/NeoGeo-MVS-and-JAMM ... .m63.l1177 with a ntsc TV (since i live in the states) the question is : where do i solder it to on the motherboard say if i get a JROK video convertor http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
... thanks


Why didn't you get the Vogatek Mk.II? It has the AD725 ntsc encoder with s-video and composite plugs. Would've saved you money and the trouble.

Anyways, hooking up the jrok encoder should be simple. Just solder the 8 wires: Sync, Red, Blue, Green, 2x GND, and +5V from the supergun to the jrok. On the jrok pcb you see 2 white connecters, one with 5 pins and the other with 2 pins. On the white 5 pin connecter you'll solder the Sync, Red,Blue,Green, and GND wires from the supergun. On the 2 pin connecter solder the +5V and GND wire from the supergun. Very easy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:21 pm 


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i didnt buy anything yet ... forgot about the mk 2 coz he is out of stock ... he will have some early next month i may wait but this seems like an easy solder ... are the wires clearly marked on the mk 3 ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:12 am 


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sourdiesel wrote:
i didnt buy anything yet ... forgot about the mk 2 coz he is out of stock ... he will have some early next month i may wait but this seems like an easy solder ... are the wires clearly marked on the mk 3 ?


Not sure since I don't have it yet. Mine should arrive in the mail this week I think. I'll let you know once I get it and post some pcis of it.

Even if they're not clearly marked you can trace it back to the jamma edge connector using a multimeter.

http://www.gamesx.com/arcade/jamma.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:17 pm 


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Vogatek supergun arrived in the mail two days ago. It was suppose to be here a month ago but somehow the first package got lost in the post. No biggie, I explained to the seller (ebay id: Arcade-Blazer) about it and he was kind enough to ship out second one free of charge. So here it is the Vogatek MK III.

The dimension are 5x3 inches, the size of an index card.
Image

Supergun running Metal Slug X on a MV-1C. Attached is the ATX power supply, scart lead connected to my XRGB-2 (not shown), and DB-15 connecter for the joystick.
Image

I was going to build a simple attenuator so I could use my PC speakers. But changed my mind when I found a pair of 8 ohm passive speakers at Fry's Electronics. Cost only $2.49 + tax, real cheap and the sound coming from them are loud & crystal clear.
Image

Picture is sharp and colors are bright. The same as I remember in the arcade. Looks even better with the scanlines turned on.
Image

Image

I'm very satisfied with the results so far. Picture and audio is awesome so no problems there. If there is one thing I'd change, I would remove the coin button that's the blue one in the center. It's just annoying to leave my seat when I need to add credits, when my joystick already has buttons set aside specifically for that purpose. If the coin button was removed there would be more than enough space to add more terminal strips for player1 & 2 coin, including test and service buttons which are absent.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:03 pm 


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nice job!, picture looks great
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:32 am 



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Congrats Rolins. BTW, what kind of joystick is that (XE-1ST2) ? Does it have rotary support ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:57 am 


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lawnspic wrote:
nice job!, picture looks great


yojo! wrote:
Congrats Rolins.


Thanks guys. I just ordered a Jamma harness extender and a 20pin ATX extension. I realized removing the supergun from a jamma edge takes a bit of effort. Same with the ATX connector, they're very tight. I feel like I'm gonna break something.


yojo! wrote:
BTW, what kind of joystick is that (XE-1ST2) ? Does it have rotary support ?


It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.

It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:54 am 



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rolins wrote:
It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.

It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.


Awesome ! so you could play Ikari Warriors and others SNK with this ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 10:44 am 


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yojo! wrote:
rolins wrote:
It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.

It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.


Awesome ! so you could play Ikari Warriors and others SNK with this ?


Huh?...No it ah not rotary stick like a Seimitsu LS-30 (I wish) so no Ikari Warriors. Only the button plane rotates really.

Essentially it'll work with any game. It's mainly the stick I use for shmups through FinalBurn Alpha, and Saturn and PS2 which I've built joystick adapters for.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:05 am 


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Also, SNK rotary sticks use an extra harness for their games. Not just left/right, but every position it turns has a dedicated pin. So it's 28 pin JAMMA + x pin rotary harness.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 7:33 pm 


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Is there any way to add a kick harness to this and how?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 7:47 pm 


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eastbayarb wrote:
Is there any way to add a kick harness to this and how?


Simple just solder the kick harness directly to your DB-15 connectors.


Also here's more current photo of my Vogatek MkIII setup
Image


And the MkII using the s-video
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 8:09 pm 


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rolins,

so i would connectors on the vogatek MKIII to a DB15 connector, and then the kick harness wires to the DB15 connector but where would the other end of the kick harness wires go to?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 8:16 pm 


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eastbayarb wrote:
rolins,

so i would connectors on the vogatek MKIII to a DB15 connector, and then the kick harness wires to the DB15 connector but where would the other end of the kick harness wires go to?


The other end of the kick harness is plugged onto your game pcb. Know that certain games require a different kick harness (jamma+).

Here's more info this: http://homearcade.org/BBBB/plus.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 8:02 am 


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Very nice. I can see these being very popular.

The arcade PSU keeps it all looking much more "sharp", if I may.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 8:27 am 


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Nice stick. I'm thinking I might get the FC version instead of using the Advantage on the A/V Fami.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 1:01 pm 


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Ed Oscuro wrote:
Nice stick. I'm thinking I might get the FC version instead of using the Advantage on the A/V Fami.


Yeah get one, XE-1PRO FC is a great arcade stick even has adjustable autofire. I use mine with my NES with an FC to Nes joystick adapter I built myself.

Before buying though, the XE-1PRO FC is not compatible with the AV Famicom through it's 15pin expansion port. Even with my famicom to nes joystick adapter will cause the joystick to be unresponsive. Still haven't figured out why.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 1:03 pm 


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rolins wrote:
Before buying though, the XE-1PRO FC is not compatible with the AV Famicom through it's 15pin expansion port.

Wait, isn't it compatible with...some other port? :o


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 3:23 pm 


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Ed Oscuro wrote:
rolins wrote:
Before buying though, the XE-1PRO FC is not compatible with the AV Famicom through it's 15pin expansion port.

Wait, isn't it compatible with...some other port? :o


If you plug the XE-1 through the 7pin Nes controller port with an adaptor, it sort of works. The AV fami will recognize the joystick but tends to go screwy with games - freezing and unresponsive control.

Apparently there are other FC accessories that are incompatible with the AV Famicom when plugged into its 15pin expansion port.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 4:39 pm 


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Basically it sounds like I should stick with the Sharp Twin and get rid of the A/Vs, then. Lol, hoo boy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:01 pm 



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For rolins,

What manufacturer makes that arcade power supply you're using with your Vogatek Mk III supergun setup and how much did it set you back btw? I like the cool red colored LED display...very simple and elegant. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 5:26 am 


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PC Engine Fan X! wrote:
For rolins,

What manufacturer makes that arcade power supply you're using with your Vogatek Mk III supergun setup and how much did it set you back btw? I like the cool red colored LED display...very simple and elegant. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~


It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.com

I highly recommend them over an ordinary PC ATX psu. They're smaller than a MVS cart and looks slick in black. Very silent too because it's fan-less and it doesn't need one either.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 1:31 am 


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rolins said, "It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.com"

how dif you wire up that PSU to your mkIII? Does it have an on/off switch? The PSU I am using is a Sparkle Power Model FSP150-50PL1 just like this:

http://www.wirelesshut.com/317229/10599327.html

It is really quiet, small, and has screw holes in the front and back (I plan on mounting this and the mkIII in some sort of project box). The only problem is, there is no power on/off button, so in order to turn my MVS on/off, i have to unplug the PSU.


By the way, I have this vogatek mkIII hooked up to a 4-slot MVS and control pads (neo geo CD pads). What button should I press to change slots?

Before I forget, hereis the back of my Vogatek MKIII:

Image

The guy I got it from wired up the back so audio can be carried through the SCART cable rather than the 1/8" stereo plug.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 3:55 am 


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eastbayarb wrote:
rolins said, "It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.com"

how dif you wire up that PSU to your mkIII? Does it have an on/off switch? The PSU I am using is a Sparkle Power Model FSP150-50PL1 just like this:

http://www.wirelesshut.com/317229/10599327.html

It is really quiet, small, and has screw holes in the front and back (I plan on mounting this and the mkIII in some sort of project box). The only problem is, there is no power on/off button, so in order to turn my MVS on/off, i have to unplug the PSU.



If you want to use an arcade psu w/ your vogatek, you first need to find a loose 20pin ATX cable preferably from a broken psu. Remove all the wires except for Pin20 (+5v) Pin18 (-5v) Pin10 (+12v) and Pin17 (GND). Crimp a fork terminal to each wire and screw them to their corresponding screw terminal on the Wei-Ya psu. Each screw terminal is properly label. You'll also need an ordinary 3-prong PC power cord and cut the female end of the cable and expose the 3 wires - Green (GND), White (Neutral), and Black (Load/Hot). Crimp a fork terminals to each wire and screw them to corresponding terminals on the psu. When you're done you should have a total of 7 wires coming out of the psu like the way I have it in the pictures I posted.

Nope, the Wei-Ya P032 doesn't have a On/Off switch. Pulling the the plug is the only way to turn it off. I've thought about installing a rocker switch but I'm lazy, and it doesn't bother me that I have to reach for the power outlet that's only 3ft from my chair.


Quote:
By the way, I have this vogatek mkIII hooked up to a 4-slot MVS and control pads (neo geo CD pads). What button should I press to change slots?


There's 3 more terminal blocks near the 2 capacitors. One of them is labeled "Sel" that's the select switch for MVS.

Quote:
Before I forget, hereis the back of my Vogatek MKIII:

Image

The guy I got it from wired up the back so audio can be carried through the SCART cable rather than the 1/8" stereo plug.


If you're using a line level converter with this or a pair of 8ohm passive speakers, then skip the stuff I'm going to say below.

To me that's a dumb idea. From that picture you posted it doesn't even look like an attenuator was installed, meaning your audio is not converted to line level. If you plug that into your TV it will eventually damage your speakers including the amp on your game pcbs.


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