The verdict is in - Mr. Driller daughter board is FUBAR...

[PC Engine Fan X!]

I recently got a Mr. Driller PCB and upon booting it up, all I get is a Black colored screen that flicks on and off. I've tried it both on a Supergun setup and the Egret II cabinet and the same problem still comes up.

What could the problem be?

I cleaned the Jamma interface with a pencil eraser and got it all super shiny and clean with some rubbing alcohol. It seems to be getting power but results in the "dreaded" black screen ailiment.

I checked all the PCB connection points and they seem to be properly seated...hmmm, I'm not sure why it won't load up properly.

This particular Mr. Driller PCB is a Namco System 12 board version with JVS output on the left side of the Jamma interface (if that helps). The Driller PCB looks just like a Namco Tenkomori Variety Shooting PCB... ^_~

I recall having a Taito G-Net mobo some time ago that became FUBAR after an accidental electrostatic discharge rendering it useless...it tries to load up but keeps reapeating the load up screen over and over ad infinitum. It used to work 100% flawlessly before this incident happened. I have since then learned a very expensive lesson, static electricity and expnesive PCBs don't mix, period...

I noticed a button cell battery -- could this be a Real Time Clock battery or a suicide battery? (I recall playing a Mr. Driller arcade cabinet at my local arcade that would save the current high scores even if powered down for the night -- could this be the back-up battery's functionality or what?)

Thank you for your helpful arcade PCB suggestions and solutions...

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Dave_K.]

Are they any dipswitches on the board? Can you boot up into the test menu to make sure all he jamma defaults are set, or at least run the rom/game tests?

[PC Engine Fan X!]

The Mr. Driller PCB does have a two dip switches setting on the SW2 line. Turned them both on and off seperately and still results in a black screen issue.

I tried flexing the PCB a bit when powered up and still nothing.

It won't even boot up to the default Rom Tests or Game test screen either.

Seems to me that could it be a possible case of accidental static discharge woes resulting in a FUBAR situation?

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Dave_K.]

Maybe you can try removing the rom daughterboard from the motherboard and see if you can boot up to some test menus?

Did you say this is the same System 12 as Tenkomori? You could try to romswap to confirm if its the motherboard or the rom thats faulty. If you are too concerned you may fubar your beloved Tenkomori, then maybe just try removing the Tenkomori rom from its mother board to see if that good motherboard can boot up to a test menu, and then compare to the other motherboard without rom.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

For Dave K.,

Thanks for the suggestion of trying out my Tenkomori PCB for diagnostics...I hadn't thought of that. (Slaps my forehead and I forgot to drink my V-8...) ^_~

Will see what's up with the daughterboard and/or Namco System 12 mobo issues from the Mr. Driller PCB set.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[PC Engine Fan X!]

For Dave K.,

Alright, by using a long needle nose pair of pliers, I carefully removed the five plastic snap-in mounts that hold the Mr. Driller daughter board in place and inserted it into the good 100% working Tenkomori mobo, powered it up, got a few color bars to appear on-screen and then it starts to flash on and off again. Yep, it's "dead upon arrivial" today, folks -- ye shall be sorely missed.

Reminds me of my fubar'ed Taito G-Net mobo with the same flashing color bar screen issue upon powering up. It's always a very good idea to have spare PCB mobos lying around. You never know when your prized PCB will "bite the dust" as nothing is forever. Enjoy 'em while they last... ^_~

I'd have to suspect that the Mr. Driller System 12 mobo and the daughter board is beyond repair -- will have to chalk it up as another one of those PCBs that "went up in smoke". Or perhaps, rather an unfortunate victim that has fallen to the horrors of, gasp, static electricity discharge. I've come across a few fubar PCBs in my time and it's not a very happy experience, especially if it's a very expensive and/or rare arcade PCB to begin with. Fubar PCBs is part of the arcade PCB hobbyist scene whether you like it or not.

I took out the Mr. Driller daughter board and replaced it back with the Tenkomori daughter one, booted it up and it works 100% again...

Thanks again for your helpful suggestions...

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Dave_K.]

Don't throw out that Driller ROM just yet PCEFX. Maybe my suggestion wasn't so good after all, in reading this statement on the System16.com website for System 12 boards:

Notes : All roms are surface mounted Intel flash roms, with all the roms on the mainboard apart from the graphics roms which are on a seperate rom board.
The boards are therefore unique to each game and you cannot swap roms from one to another.

So its either fubar, or perhaps the wrong motherboard if they need to be paired? As discussed in another thread recently, System 10 daughter board roms can swapped (I did this with Driller G and Star Trigon), but maybe not on a System 12? Maybe you can compare the mother boards to see if the rom chips on it are unique to each game...I've never seen one so I don't know.

Anyway, given the street price of Driller boards hopefully this didn't break the bank for you.

[undamned]

Teh sux, but you can get a new set for $35 or less of YAJ.
-ud

[bitkid]

It's always a very good idea to have spare PCB mobos lying around.

Good idea, I think I'll purchase 2 copies of DOJ:BL..."just in case".

[PC Engine Fan X!]

It's always a very good idea to have spare PCB mobos lying around.

Good idea, I think I'll purchase 2 copies of DOJ:BL..."just in case".

Only if they were a dime a dozen... ^_~