XRGB-mini Framemeister

[Konsolkongen]

Would converting component cables into RGB SCART for PS2/Gamecube/Xbox/Wii work better with the Framemeister?

I assume it would but I always gotta ask.

While that's doable for the GameCube by using both AV-outputs and the expensive component/D-terminal cable, how would you go about doing that on the Xbox, PS2 and Wii? There's no connection to sync in those cables, and the Wii has to be set to the European region, otherwise it won't output in RGB. But why not just buy real RGB cables?

Also, you would loose the 480p option on the Xbox and Wii if you switch to RGB. PS2 can output 480p over RGsB but it would need some kind of sync seperator to work. Likewise the GameCube can do 480p over RGBHV if you mod the component cable, but that would require a sync combiner to work

[Fudoh]

I understood the question as transcoding the component signals of those systems to RGB first before going into the Mini. The FM has a scaling bug when processing 480p component signals. This causes vertical edges to look slightly blurry. It's far less pronounced on 31khz RGBs signals. To do that you need to transcode component to RGBHV and then do a sync conversion to RGBs.

[Smashbro29]

Would converting component cables into RGB SCART for PS2/Gamecube/Xbox/Wii work better with the Framemeister?

I assume it would but I always gotta ask.

While that's doable for the GameCube by using both AV-outputs and the expensive component/D-terminal cable, how would you go about doing that on the Xbox, PS2 and Wii? There's no connection to sync in those cables, and the Wii has to be set to the European region, otherwise it won't output in RGB. But why not just buy real RGB cables?

Also, you would loose the 480p option on the Xbox and Wii if you switch to RGB. PS2 can output 480p over RGsB but it would need some kind of sync seperator to work. Likewise the GameCube can do 480p over RGBHV if you mod the component cable, but that would require a sync combiner to work

Well think of it like this:

I have all of this stuff coming into a component switch what if there was a cable or a box or something that changed the connector type without losing any of the good things that came with using component cables. It's very mini specific because of its odd handling of component sources.

I understood the question as transcoding the component signals of those systems to RGB first before going into the Mini. The FM has a scaling bug when processing 480p component signals. This causes vertical edges to look slightly blurry. It's far less pronounced on 31khz RGBs signals. To do that you need to transcode component to RGBHV and then do a sync conversion to RGBs.

Ok, how do I do that? Do I lose anything on any of the consoles?

I'm sure I've asked this before but I've been out of the game for a long time.

[Fudoh]

You need a transcoder and a RGB interface. Component into the transcoder, RGBHV from the transcoder the interface, RGBs into the Mini. Instead of the transcoder you can use a Kenzei, an UMSA or a passive sync combiner circuit.

[Smashbro29]

You need a transcoder and a RGB interface. Component into the transcoder, RGBHV from the transcoder the interface, RGBs into the Mini. Instead of the transcoder you can use a Kenzei, an UMSA or a passive sync combiner circuit.

And I guess this would tie in very nicely with the custom VGA cables idea.

[Galgomite]

Would converting component cables into RGB SCART for PS2/Gamecube/Xbox/Wii work better with the Framemeister?

I assume it would but I always gotta ask.

Component is great already. Furthermore I wouldn't see how converting from component would result in a signal better than component.

[Fudoh]

It doesn't result in a better signal per se, but it in results in a signal that the Mini can handle better than component.

[Smashbro29]

Would converting component cables into RGB SCART for PS2/Gamecube/Xbox/Wii work better with the Framemeister?

I assume it would but I always gotta ask.

Component is great already. Furthermore I wouldn't see how converting from component would result in a signal better than component.

Fudoh beat me to it but to put it another way.

Component is a great connector but the way the mini handles it isn't great. So same signal, processed differently by the mini = better picture.

[SabreAZ]

Sorry to bother, but has anyone seen my problem that I posted on the last page? I think my FM is damaged, and I don't know what to do =( I'm pretty sure my warranty is no good too

[CkRtech]

Sorry to bother, but has anyone seen my problem that I posted on the last page? I think my FM is damaged, and I don't know what to do =( I'm pretty sure my warranty is no good too

You could try updating to the latest firmware and reseting all of your settings.

[SabreAZ]

yeah i just recently updated firmware and defaulted. I'm pretty sure its defective at this point. Was curious if anyone else had this issue and if anyone knew someone that can do repairs?

[austin532]

Wish I could help but I'm far from being an expert on these forums. Have you tried the obvious by using a different power supply? You said you are currently moving from place to place. Maybe the outlets give out a lot of interference in the building you are in? Have you tried using a surge protector/suppressor with EMI/RFI filtering to see if that helps?

What doesn't make sense though is that the D-Terminal/Component input works fine when in fact that's usually the most noisiest when it comes to interference.

[SabreAZ]

I can try other stuff. I've used the same power supply, and power strip since I first purchased it. It first happened when i took it to a retro night. Again, using the same power supply, powerstrip, monitor, everything. I actually thought my PC Engine Duo mod went to crap, until we plugged in a Genesis. My RGB NES is component out. Looks great via component through this, and am currently modding an AV famicom. I just find it weird that it's ironically, all the ports in the front of the device that has this weird interference, but not the rear ports.

I appreciate the response. Thank you

[Fudoh]

I would still try another PSU first. It might be emitting some interference that affects a part of the A/D area for the front ports. If it doesn't help, Micomsoft should service out of warranty units as well (for a fee) - worth checking into it. And last but not least, even if not ideal, you could still use a Scart to Component transcoder box on the back input.

[keropi]

Kinda of abandoning the PSU replacement atm, will this stepdown converter work with the original PSU?



I see it outputs 110~120v and the framemeister PSU states on it's label "AC 100v" ... so it's a 10~20% difference?
110v ones are all I can find locally , I assume they are tailored to US standards.

[Fudoh]

Sure, I use standard 2:1 converters all the time. In Europe you get about 115V from those.

[keropi]

allright, thanks for the info fudoh!
finally I hope I get rid of any parasites left due to power noise

[Stephen g]

Hi sorry but I really need help, I just don't know what uk power supply to get ?

Please give some advise guys.. I don't wanna blow my new toy when it comes.. What are you guys from the uk using ? Please

[kel]

Hi sorry but I really need help, I just don't know what uk power supply to get ?

Please give some advise guys.. I don't wanna blow my new toy when it comes.. What are you guys from the uk using ? Please

I've been using a LEI NU20-5050200 power supply without any problems.

It's also accepts 100-240v 50/60hz so can be used anywhere.

[Stephen g]

Hi sorry but I really need help, I just don't know what uk power supply to get ?

Please give some advise guys.. I don't wanna blow my new toy when it comes.. What are you guys from the uk using ? Please

I've been using a LEI NU20-5050200 power supply without any problems.

It's also accepts 100-240v 50/60hz so can be used anywhere.

Thank you..I'll take a look. I was looking at this power adapter from Maplins uk Item code - L45BL but you need to also buy new power tips item N96AP..

But was unsure if it would be ok ?

[Stephen g]

Well my toys come, thanks Kel, power supply works great..

Iv hooked my atari jaguar (I love the machine, very miss understood, I one of the few who actually like the joypad) with my home made RGB scart and 60hz modded, it looks effing stunning... Can't believe it really..

Tempest 2000 while not the most graphically intensive game ever, looks mint..
AVP looks stunning also...
Doom , you gussed it .. Looks stunning.
Trying to find a copy of Rayman to try, tho I ant paying stupid money lol.

Can this Xrgb mini do no wrong lol.

Anyone got scanline settings I could try, tho to be honest game 2 piture settings look great to me @ 720p - sharpness on +1.

[Konsolkongen]

Look in my signature

You really should keep sharpness at 0 for all 240p content. But you can gain extra sharpness by adjusting the H and V_scaler options, which will look much better.

[Thomago]

While you are at it: I'm quite surprised that there are many here who choose a SHARPNESS setting above 0 for their gaming consoles. Okay, that looks nice for movies, but for games (especially 240p/288p ones) I found even SHARPNESS = 1 to be unbearable. Artifacts everywhere

[Stephen g]

Dunno if it's me or not but my picture looks great using game2, sharpness 1 and auto scaler....720p @60 does look pretty fantasic.. For a 20 year old console.. Don't really feel the need to mess to much, tho I don't get scan lines and why everyone loves them so much ?

[Lord of Pirates]

Dunno if it's me or not but my picture looks great using game2, sharpness 1 and auto scaler....720p @60 does look pretty fantasic.. For a 20 year old console.. Don't really feel the need to mess to much, tho I don't get scan lines and why everyone loves them so much ?

Encouraged reading on the subject :
http://scanlines.hazard-city.de/

[Fudoh]

If you don't want to use scanlines, you should generally use 1080p output instead. 1080p with sharpness at zero will get you better results than 720p with sharpness at 1. You should also stay to the bottom line of processing modes. Game1/2/Meister will halve your resolution on 480i titles.

[Stephen g]

Dunno if it's me or not but my picture looks great using game2, sharpness 1 and auto scaler....720p @60 does look pretty fantasic.. For a 20 year old console.. Don't really feel the need to mess to much, tho I don't get scan lines and why everyone loves them so much ?

Encouraged reading on the subject :
http://scanlines.hazard-city.de/

Iv read it and still feel it just makes my picture look like I need to set it correctly, maybe some scanline settings people use so I can try ... Having just got the mini I'm still learning how to use it..

[Stephen g]

If you don't want to use scanlines, you should generally use 1080p output instead. 1080p with sharpness at zero will get you better results than 720p with sharpness at 1. You should also stay to the bottom line of processing modes. Game1/2/Meister will halve your resolution on 480i titles.

I find 1080p softer than 720p also the same effect with sharpness set to 0.. Maybe I just like the look of a over sharp image .

Regarding the jag scart I modded... At first my RGB scart just wouldn't work with the mini.. Got a really messed up image..., no matter what I didn't it wouldnt work...

So I took scart apart and resolded, minus the grounding on pin 18, in fact the only grounding I had was pin 4....after that my RGB scart work and it looks perfect to me...oh I had to use the euro to jap xrgb mini adapter but the one with the sync thing inside... The standard euro adapter without the sync didn't work ?

So if anyone as a jag and is having trouble I can help ...

[austin532]

That's very strange. How is 1080p softer than 720p? 1080p is clearly sharper from what I can tell while using RGB even with Sharpness at 0.

[Thomago]

Hhmmm... overscan and bad scaling on side of the TV/monitor come to mind.