TV RGB mod thread

[charlysan]

Those panasonic sets always requires blanking activation, and I had to activate the rgb through service menu before, the thing is that enabling the rgb is for Micronas chips, I didn't expect this set to have the same behavior, but worse, via eeprom...

i think the way forward would be to desolder the EEPROM and dump it (you will probably have to get a sodim package to through hole adapter). Then you could inspect the contents and look for the string that sets the RGB/YUV and change it. But it would be a fuck ton of work to go through and it might not work if you have to also change some other registers.

Not sure if this applies to your case, but I've done some recent experimentation with a Micronas VCT and I have included a section where I show how the external EEPROM can be accessed via i2c. Here is the thread: viewtopic.php?p=1559871

[titan91]

KV-20fs12 BA-5. YPbPr modded. Blanking directly on jungle pin 36 YUVSW with 5v and two parallel 1k resistors through a spdt switch.

Just picked up one of these Sony KV-20FS12's myself and will do a component mod as well. Question for anyone that has done one, does applying 5V with 2 1k resistors in parallel blank the CVBS input and enable component? Which video input does the TV need to be set to?



There are also Y and C pins, possible to do a simultaneous s-video mod?

[KPackratt2k]

For blanking, I run 5V through a 1K ohm resistor to the YUVSW pin on the jungle chip. There's a jumper that connects this pin to the micon, which should be cut and removed to isolate the YPbPr blanking pin. Ideally you should use the rear video input (Video 1) so you can use its existing audio jacks and not have to run the audio cable through the front or an extra set of jacks.

The BA-5 chassis Sony TVs have a digital comb filter that adds excessive shifting to the image when injecting sync to the Composite video input for RGB/YPbPr mods. I found that the best injection point for sync is through the comb filter Luma input (pin 9) on the jungle chip. There should be a jumper that connects this pin to the comb filter chip placed between the coupling capacitor (C1385) and the inline resistor (R1323). You can cut this jumper and inject Luma or RGB sync through the capacitor, be sure to place a 75 ohm termination resistor onto the input jack.

For S-Video, there are two ways you can do it. The first method is to replicate the S-Video input circuit from a model with an S-Video input (KV-20FV12 for example) and change the ID-1 setting to "19" in the service menu to enable the input. This was done before on a KV-13FM12 with success (source). The biggest hurdle is this method requires a switching IC that is no longer in production, so that part may be difficult to find.

The alternative method is to isolate the comb filter's Y/C output through the jungle chip's input pins and inject your external S-Video signals through the pins (pin 9 for Luma and pin 7 for Chroma).

If you wish to preserve the stock Composite video input while enabling additional inputs, you can wire a switch to toggle between inputs, though this can get complex depending on the number of inputs you wish to add to the set.

[titan91]

Thanks a lot for the detailed info. I also found this thread which evidently is the same process for the BA-4 chassis with jungle IC pin locations:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68134

I was planning on adding a switch, so that's not an issue. So, the comb filter splits off and uses the Y and C input pins on the jungle IC from the factory? If I were to do a component and s-video mod, do either of those only affect video 1 in the back? As in, does video 2 in the front remain usable?

[KPackratt2k]

When you want to use the stock Composite/RF inputs (including the front and rear Composite inputs), the blanking/Y/C switch should be set to the Composite position, as having it on the positions you use for S-Video/YPbPr/RGB will have the selected input replace every input channel during the time it's in the alternate positions since the comb filter is used to process the Composite video input as well as the tuner video.

[titan91]

Awesome, thank you.

[ilpabl0x]

Hi, I'm looking forward to mod a small Sharp 14V-470M.

Checking the service manual, the RGB lines look like this:


That means the signal is digital, right?

Assuming it is, looking at the datasheet for the jungle IC (M61250CF), it also can receive an analog 0.7Vpp signal, so, how do I mux the signals in this case? do I just inject my RGB directly?

Thanks in advance.

[vol.2]

Hi, I'm looking forward to mod a small Sharp 14V-470M.

Checking the service manual, the RGB lines look like this:


That means the signal is digital, right?

Assuming it is, looking at the datasheet for the jungle IC (M61250CF), it also can receive an analog 0.7Vpp signal, so, how do I mux the signals in this case? do I just inject my RGB directly?

Thanks in advance.

If I read the datasheet for M61250 correctly, it is a microcontroller with an I^2C bus and it might need to have the RGB input mode set in an EEPROM. You could try first injecting your signal to see if it automatically switches, but it might not. I haven't ever heard of someone trying to mux in a digital OSD, but you might be able to do it by lowering the voltage of the OSD signal down to regular video level. If that doesn't work, and you are able to get the regular video working, your only option is probably just a switch.

You might be able to lower the OSD voltage with a resistive divider:

Input (3 Vpp) ---[R1 = 767 ohms]---+---[R2 = 233 ohms]---Ground
|
Output (0.7 Vpp)

Or an opamp which would allow you more granular control over the levels and DC offset with a non-inverting input and a potentiometer.

Of course, this is all moot if you can't get an analog signal into the IC

[bshi02]

Hello.
I want to RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 and its partnumber which locate on the surface of main PCB is MC-7CA(MAIN) 6870VM0056C(6) 980424 L.W.G(0).
I found that most of components in LG CN-29H3 is the same to below schematic(lg_chassis_mc-7ca_sch-1.pdf)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/v4r4ctst ... jr6b5&dl=0
and I stumbled on Korean RGB mod tutorial of LG CN-29K1 ,Although some of its components is somewhat different to CN-29H3 but I found that It has the same jungle chip(TB1231CN) like LG CN-29H3.
So I inquired of author about How to RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 based on schematic(lg_chassis_mc-7ca_sch-1.pdf).
He taught me the way How can RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 But It seems that He was unsure of whether it is really works without fail or not.
I drew what I'm told from author[he said that five 1N4148(D1,D2,D3,D4,D5) and two 180 ohm resistor(R-1,R-2) have to be inserted.],and you can download this primitive schematic(CN-29H3 RGB mod) from below link.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/n3aonyof ... p4z75&dl=0

By the way, Is it really possible to successfully mod LG CN-29H3 if I follow above schematic?
Any reply would be appreciated.

[exitnode]

I recently picked up a Panasonic BT-M1950Y that is exhibiting some strange behavior. The image looks great, but when transitioning from dark to light scenes it takes almost a full second for the black levels to stabilize. Could be a malfunction in the black clamping? Video here (https://imgur.com/a/3X0NR3G). I noticed it does this when switching between the RGB screens on 240p test suite, as well as black to white and vice versa.

It does not exhibit this effect on composite or component sources, only RGB.

Page 54 of the service manual (https://archive.org/details/btm1950y) has the schematic for the input board, does anyone have an idea of what I should be looking for, or what part of the circuit is responsible for black level clamping / DC restoration? I have replaced all electrolytic caps that tested high ESR on the input board and neckboard to no effect.

Sorry if this is off topic, if there's a better place to ask I can move this post or make a thread. Thanks!

[MarkOZLAD]

Hello.
I want to RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 and its partnumber which locate on the surface of main PCB is MC-7CA(MAIN) 6870VM0056C(6) 980424 L.W.G(0).
I found that most of components in LG CN-29H3 is the same to below schematic(lg_chassis_mc-7ca_sch-1.pdf)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/v4r4ctst ... jr6b5&dl=0
and I stumbled on Korean RGB mod tutorial of LG CN-29K1 ,Although some of its components is somewhat different to CN-29H3 but I found that It has the same jungle chip(TB1231CN) like LG CN-29H3.
So I inquired of author about How to RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 based on schematic(lg_chassis_mc-7ca_sch-1.pdf).
He taught me the way How can RGB mod with LG CN-29H3 But It seems that He was unsure of whether it is really works without fail or not.
I drew what I'm told from author[he said that five 1N4148(D1,D2,D3,D4,D5) and two 180 ohm resistor(R-1,R-2) have to be inserted.],and you can download this primitive schematic(CN-29H3 RGB mod) from below link.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/n3aonyof ... p4z75&dl=0

By the way, Is it really possible to successfully mod LG CN-29H3 if I follow above schematic?
Any reply would be appreciated.

That diagram looks pretty close to right to me.

I wouldn't install the 180 Ohm "R-2" and I would be using a 820 ohm (or even a 1000 ohm) at position "R-1".

I'm not sure what he's trying to achieve with Diode "D5" in his diagram. If it were me I would omit the "D5" he suggests but I also don't believe it would cause an issue if you did install it.

[bshi02]

That diagram looks pretty close to right to me.

I wouldn't install the 180 Ohm "R-2" and I would be using a 820 ohm (or even a 1000 ohm) at position "R-1".

I'm not sure what he's trying to achieve with Diode "D5" in his diagram. If it were me I would omit the "D5" he suggests but I also don't believe it would cause an issue if you did install it.

Thank you very much for reply!
In fact,author said that Resultant OSD Blanking would be 3.5v and Resultant Scart Blanking be 2.5v If I calculate it by OSD Mux RGB Calculator like below screenshot.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zq4vp0v5 ... 9wa3x&dl=0

So D5(1N4148) need to reduce voltage of Resultant OSD Blanking to 2.8V or similar voltage of Resultant Scart Blanking(2.5V)
and this RGB mod don't use SCART cable, But instead,It use RCA female connector for RGB output. Therefore It need to connect 180ohm(R-1) in series between TUNER 5V and YS pin of jungle chip(TB1231CN) just like There is 180ohm resistor between 8pin and 16 pin in SCART cable.
I doubt it is really okay to remove R-2 180ohm resistor and install 1000 ohm at position of R-1, instead of 180ohm which is supposed to be in SCART cable.

[MarkOZLAD]

I know the spreadsheet because I wrote it…

Your author’s circuit may well work but I know what I’m talking about. Just because there’s a 180 ohm resistor in a scart cable doesn’t mean you need one here.

[bshi02]

I know the spreadsheet because I wrote it…

Your author’s circuit may well work but I know what I’m talking about. Just because there’s a 180 ohm resistor in a scart cable doesn’t mean you need one here.

Thank you very much for reply.
Okay,I'll follow your advice(omitting D5 1N4148 and 180 Ohm R-2 and installing 820 ohm (or even a 1000 ohm) instead of 180ohm at position R-1)
But I noticed that He(author of CN-29H3 RGB mod) connect 1 watt 180 ohm resistor between FB pin of jungle chip(YS pin in the TB1231CN) and TUNER 5V wire like below link.

https://9632024.tistory.com/1540

When I try to RGB mod with CN-29H3, Is It really necessary to install 1 watt 1000 ohm or 820 ohm carbon resistor at position R-1 or Is it just enough to install 1/4 watt carbon resistor at position R-1?

[stefan07]

Has anyone ever modded a BC-2 chassis? I have a Sony kv-14vm1 TV with the BC-2 chassis, based on the CXA1213BS / CXA1213AS jungle, the image signal goes through the CXA1214P region decoder.
It's a nice set and even has stereo speakers. Would be amazing to be able to RGB mod it.

Datasheet TV:
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_ch_bc-2_k ... nload.html

Datasheet Jungle:
https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/489066/Sony/CXA1213AS/1

Datasheet Decoder:
https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/CXA1214P.html

[majorspawn]

Hi All,
I have a Sanyo cp29st3, here is the schematic for the processor and ic201. I suspect this can be RGB modded can someone please check and provide some advice, thanks in advance

[vol.2]

Hi All,
I have a Sanyo cp29st3, here is the schematic for the processor and ic201. I suspect this can be RGB modded can someone please check and provide some advice, thanks in advance

It is necessary to determine whether or not the RGB output from the CPU is TTL or NTSC level. The block diagram is not enough. I glanced at the schematic and it doesn't give voltage levels for the OSD signals between the CPU and the Jungle IC (801 to 201). I also can't find datasheets for either one online (QXXAVB241 and 242).

Unless someone else knows this set of ICs from experience, the only way I can think of is to just scope the signals at pins 27,23,28 and 30 of IC201. That will tell you if it's TTL or analog RGB going into the chip. If it's analog, you can probably do it. Such a higher end late model CRT is probably floating, but I would still use an isolation transformer to do any scoping of signals on any TV just to be safe.

[demonpoodle]

I ran into a bit of a snag trying to mux mod a Panasonic ctp-2780sf, the tv will display the injected RGB video but the sync is rolling. note, i'm currently using the composite input for the csync.

If anyone could point me in the right direction, id appreciate the help. also let me know what other info would be helpful.

here is the schematic and I do have the rest of the service manual if needed.

[jefftherobot]

I ran into a bit of a snag trying to mux mod a Panasonic ctp-2780sf, the tv will display the injected RGB video but the sync is rolling. note, i'm currently using the composite input for the csync.

Might be obvious but you're not running 50hz into a 60hz tv, or vice versa?

[jefftherobot]

I spent a long time on this so I really hope I'm all correct. Pretty confident though. Have cross checked with original MarkOzlad's table, the OSD Mux RGB Calculator spreadsheet, and the formula on sunthar's website.

So this is for a personal project putting a consumer grade TV into an arcade machine.

I'm using the Sharp CX68N5 / 29FX30 / 29FX50 / GB1 Chassis

It has the (IC201) IX3394CE or IX3395CE jungle chip, which can also be known as the TB1254AN Toshiba

The MICOM is the IX3593CE (IC2001). It looks to output 5V

The jungle chip wants 1.82V from the blanking line in, and 0.7Vp-p for the voltage rgb lines

Because this is an arcade machine, I'm using an D-SUB 15 pin cable AKA the VGA cable.

Because I'm using the VGA cable and the arcade machine doesn't give a 5V line, I need to pull 5V from the CRT. So I'm using the Voltage Regulator chip (IC751) STV8164+.No switch because this is a permanent mod for the arcade machine.

I think that's enough explanation. Here's the mux diagram:

[stefan07]

Why does the YS line coming from the SCART port need two resistors (R462 and R451)? The R, G and B lines only have one resistor.

[demonpoodle]

Might be obvious but you're not running 50hz into a 60hz tv, or vice versa?

everything is 60hz. I feel like it just has to be something simple thats being overlooked.

Am I correct in my understanding that, you set the tv to the composite input, plug the sync into the existing RCA jack for said input, then toggle the blanking pin switch to your injected RGB input to display the image? and it still reads the sync from the composite line?

or is there something else that needed to be done on the sync line that I'm missing?

[jefftherobot]

Might be obvious but you're not running 50hz into a 60hz tv, or vice versa?

everything is 60hz. I feel like it just has to be something simple thats being overlooked.

Am I correct in my understanding that, you set the tv to the composite input, plug the sync into the existing RCA jack for said input, then toggle the blanking pin switch to your injected RGB input to display the image? and it still reads the sync from the composite line?

or is there something else that needed to be done on the sync line that I'm missing?

You're correct,

What is your setup? You running a console? Have you tested it on another TV?

[Psychosaurus]

Hey All

I have an Aiwa 14" Combo CRT TV that i want to RGB Mod, which has the same Jungle IC (TB1226CN).
i have watched MarcoRetro's Video which he had a similar Jungle Chip as my CRT but there are things i am not sure how to do them

I understand that i need to use 0.1uF ceramic capacitor and 75ohm resistor but not sure how i should wire them as i am planning on using BNC or RCA conncectors instead of SCART ?
and i am not sure how can i get the 0.5V to the Ys to enable RGB ?

i am including the pictures of the IC and its diagram and datasheet, Help is appreciated
Thanks

[bclark219]

Hi,

I'm trying to RGB mod a RCA F25442 and install a SCART connector on the back. It has a LA7612A Jungle chip. I also see a SONY CXA2074S chip inside. I can't find any service manuals for this TV.
What is the easiest way to RGB mod this TV? Can I solder my RGB wires directly to the Jungle IC? I need to figure out which pins are the RGB in. And for the sync can I solder to the back of the composite in?

[Bluesfire]

Came across this today on Aliexpress, Seems like it could make a lot of TVs more easily RGB moddable! https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqsHkss

Would love to see it in action, I haven't tried it yet myself but it looks promising.

[jefftherobot]

Came across this today on Aliexpress, Seems like it could make a lot of TVs more easily RGB moddable! https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqsHkss

Would love to see it in action, I haven't tried it yet myself but it looks promising.

If I'm looking at it correctly, it looks like it's skips the main board and plugs into the neck board to directly send RGB? Is that how it works?

[spikespiegel]

So I found this datasheet of the TDA9552H and it's identical to the tda9592h/n3/3/1502 pinout.

There's no publicly available datasheet for the tda9592h/n3/3/1502 that my panasonic has.

http://www.datasheetspdf.com/PDF/TDA9552H/870544/8

I'm starting to think that the TV when receiving 5+ volts to Pin 50 INSSW2, changes from YUV to composite because of a EEPROM bit somewhere.
I can enter the Service Menu and direct write values to the EEPROM.

The datasheet claims:
• A linear RGB/YUV/YPBPR input with fast blanking for
external RGB/YUV sources. The synchronisation circuit
can be connected to the incoming Y signal.

And:
RGB output circuit and black-current stabilization
In the RGB control circuit the signal is controlled on
contrast, brightness and saturation. The ICs have a linear
input for external RGB/YUV signals. Switching between
RGB and the YUV/YPRPB mode can be realised via the
YUV0/YUV1 bits in subaddress 2BH.

This means HEX address 02B which in my TV is 0 0.
That makes sense because the Jungle IC outputs RGB (at 2V).

I need to change it on the input side.


The thing is, is there any way to find out what BIT should I change to enable RGB instead of YUV?
There's a table that says:
Table 94 Enable vertical guard (RGB blanking) 0 and 1, inactive and active.

The Panasonic MS_TC-29FJ30L datahseet has all the values of the EEPROM but no indication of what they are for.

Please, any ideas?

I've had a bit of a go at understanding the I2C communication in the TVs.

One thing I discovered that the addresses listed in the datasheets for the configuration bits do not directly relate to the EEPROM maps. Instead I believe you need to put an I2C device onto the TVs I2C bus and send I2C read and write commands to the chips using the addresses supplied (8A for write, 8B for read).

I haven't successfully managed to do this yet though I haven't spent a lot of time on it either. I was able to get a response from the TV but wasn't able to achieve anything constructive.

I'm having the same problem as his. You said to put an I2C device onto the TVs I2C bus and send I2C read and write commands to the chips using the addresses supplied. Can you elaborate, please? Could that I2C device be a ESP32? Where's the TV's I2C bus? Which I2C device and software could I use and how to get started?

[spikespiegel]

I've rgb moded a Panasonic CRT TV, model TC-14A12, but I don't seem to be able to activate the blanking line.

That jungle IC look very similar to a Phillips I used to have,the chip is either Component or RGB and can't be changed in the service menu.

I did mod mine for component as that what it was set for but I had to enable it in the service menu.

Which circuit did you use to mod it to component video?

[spikespiegel]

Are you sure this cant be solved via service menu? I still havent bought the controller.

I suppose it's possible that some combo of the CHK1 options in the service menu could alter the relevant memory registers, but I can't find any explanation in the SM. There could maybe be some additional service info like a bulletin or a guide that explains what all that does for the set or a for a whole range of sets, but I have no idea how to find such a thing. It also might be possible to infer which value might be the right one to change by reading the IC datasheet and understanding the values that are currently set (if 0,0 is YUV, then maybe setting one of those to RGB is the correct solution), but there is also the possibility that more than one register needs changing, and also there is a non zero chance that one of those will blank the menu out and you'll brick the set.

I spent many hours altering the values in the CHK1 options and had no luck at all. On the other hand, I did manage to get in the memory menu, but I have no idea what to change there and I don't dare to do that without any documentation. So, from this information, can you shed me a light? I really wanted to see this TV rgb modded, its image is fantastic.