TV RGB mod thread

[abispac]

Hey guys, back again to try to takle the infamous rgb mod, to use a small 13 inch tv as an arcade monitor. I love this curtis brand tvs, as they are basicaly samsung tvs. The first time i tried this mod, the curtis tv turn out to be the same as the 8bit guy, then i actually got me a samsung tv as the same model as the 8bit guy. Now i got me a 13inch tv, model cmc13003, but i couldnt find a decent service manual based on that model. This particular tv, has a vcr player embeded. Wich i pray for it to be separate, and once i disasembled the tv, i was right, the vcr part only has t2 harness hoock up to the tv chassis, once they where un hoocked, the tv chassis is by its own. And based on the chassis number , v15a. turns out its a copycat of a samsung tv. Againg using similar values as the 8bit guy mod. So im in hope that the mod would be stupid easy againg. Now to be honest, i still dont understand the mux mod. So im following the 8bit guys video again to make mine. Wich is, unsolder resistors 204-206 i believe, as they are numbered like that on my service manual, add the 75rresistor terminated to ground. Add the 5v to blank, and that should do , i hope so. Im leaving the info here as perhaps someone would need it in the future. ill add pictures later on.
Anyway , feel free to correct me or to coment, thanks for your time.
Service manual: https://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros ... +video.pdf

[crtnew]

wow very nice thanks for drawing this up and taking the time to scan

let me see if im understanding how this works. we are blanking the signal with the 5V switch that we send to Jungle Chip IC2200 [25] and PIPA1 [8]. C2222M, C2220M, C21219M, and R2242 are the correct power supply needed to blank and send the RGB signal. im unclear where the signal is tapped in from and what is being blocked. Are we attaching wires RGB wires to the PIPA1 chip and cutting the traces on the jungle chip? or is what what removing 2211, 2212, and 2213 does?

[MarkOZLAD]

You need to go and look at the schematic of your set and compare it to my diagram. There’s only so much I can help you….and only so much I’m willing to help.

For the 5V you’ll likely want to find the output pin of the 5V regulator.

[crtnew]

You need to go and look at the schematic of your set and compare it to my diagram. There’s only so much I can help you….and only so much I’m willing to help.

For the 5V you’ll likely want to find the output pin of the 5V regulator.

re-reading your original post helped me better understand. thanks.

[RetroSpark]

I have a Sony Trinitron KV-T29SZ8 (Australian model, BG1S chassis) that I'd like to RGB mod. I'm fairly sure I know how to add RCAs for R, G & B and a manual blanking switch, by soldering to the R, G, B, BLK & GND lines of the unused teletext connector CN106:

• R, G & B RCAs
  Connect outer contacts to CN106 GND, and inner contacts to CN106 R, G & B with a 150 Ω termination resistor to ground (in parallel with the existing 150 Ω resistors R327, R328 & R329, this provides 75 Ω termination).
• Blanking switch (SPST)
  Connect one terminal to a 5V source (e.g. from 5V supply to microcontroller IC) and the other to CN106 BLK via an inline 1.5 kΩ resistor (this forms a voltage divider with the existing 1 kΩ termination resistor R330, giving 2v at the jungle pin).

With these modifications, a console SCART cable could connect to the TV via a breakout cable that's plugged into the new R, G & B RCAs and the existing CVBS & audio input RCAs.

However, I think it would be neater to add a SCART socket to the TV directly - but I'm not sure how I should connect up some of the SCART pins. These are the ones I've worked out so far:

• 15, 11, 7 (RGB in)
  Connect to CN106 R, G & B with a 150 Ω termination resistor, as above.
• 20, 6, 2 (CVBS & L/R audio in)
  Connect to the inner contacts of the existing input RCAs.
• 13, 9, 5 (RGB grounds)
  Connect to CN106 GND.
• 8, 10, 12 (Switching, control, reserved)
  No connection.

And these are the pins I have questions about:

• 18, 17, 4 (CVBS & audio grounds)
  Is it necessary to connect these to the outer contacts of the existing RCAs, or can I again use CN106 GND?
• 19, 3, 1 (CVBS & L/R audio out)
  Connecting these to the existing output RCAs is a possibility, but is unlikely to be useful. If I don't do that, should I connect them to ground or just leave them unconnected?
• 16 (Blanking)
  Could I avoid the need for a blanking switch by connecting this to CN106 BLK with an 81 Ω termination resistor (in parallel with the existing 1 kΩ R330 to provide 75 Ω termination)?
• 14 (Blanking ground)
  I think this should also connect to CN106 GND, but I've noticed that some cables which join all the grounds together don't connect pin 14. Is there a reason for this?
• 21 (Plug shell)
  Can I connect this to CN106 GND as well? I've read that it should be connected separately to the chassis?

[MarkOZLAD]

All grounds can be connected together and to one point on the chassis.

An automatic switching to RGB could be done using scart pin 16 but you would likely need to make an assumption about how the source device is providing voltage to pin 16. Easier and potentially more reliable to use a switch.

[MarkOZLAD]

i still dont understand the mux mod.

Does this help?

[abispac]

i still dont understand the mux mod.

Does this help?

So i was going to say, dont get mad at Markozlad, to anyone, for not wanting to spoon feed you, as he is almost the only one maintaining this topic alive, and i understand, he gets tired of answering the same bull questions over and over. But theres also people like me, that is hard to understand how this mux thing works. chosing where the osd resitor or the ground resistor are is confusing. Thats where the problem starts for fools like me. Now with this new picture, i think it makes it a bit more clear, theres resitors going to ground and resistors that conect to caps, so i get a better understanding on where to input the rgb signal.
Thanks Markozlad for your patience with dork noobs like me, that i shouldnt be a nooob anymore, but somehow im still am, and please dont give up, you saving tons of tvs going to waste for nothing.

[MarkOZLAD]

abispac…not angry at all, I just thought maybe you missed that new diagram. I think it makes it a bit easier to understand. The other thing that should be understood is the concept of “Voltage Dividers”.

I do sometimes get a bit miffed about having to spoon feed. If people want to mod TVs they need to understand that it takes some work, especially when stuff goes wrong.

[abispac]

abispac…not angry at all, I just thought maybe you missed that new diagram. I think it makes it a bit easier to understand. The other thing that should be understood is the concept of “Voltage Dividers”.

I do sometimes get a bit miffed about having to spoon feed. If people want to mod TVs they need to understand that it takes some work, especially when stuff goes wrong.

Cant agree more, you deserve alot of credits for alot of mods done thanks to the thread. Thanks againg bro. Hope this last mod i dont need to bother you. Im just trynig to figure out if my set has also the closed caption resitor that needs to get bypased. So ill keep searching.

[MarkOZLAD]

Im just trynig to figure out if my set has also the closed caption resitor that needs to get bypased. So ill keep searching.

Nope, there's no closed caption resistor to worry about on your set. Your set is pretty much the simplest example for a OSD Mux. Just do the twist method on resistors R204, 205 and 206 (if they exist, there's a * next to them on the schematic)

[RetroSpark]

All grounds can be connected together and to one point on the chassis.

Thanks Mark, that makes things easier.

If the SCART socket only needs to support input, what should I do with the output pins 19, 3 & 1? Connect them to ground as well, or just leave them unconnected?

An automatic switching to RGB could be done using scart pin 16 but you would likely need to make an assumption about how the source device is providing voltage to pin 16. Easier and potentially more reliable to use a switch.

If I use a manual RGB switch, can I leave SCART pin 16 with no connection? Or do I still need to connect a resistor to provide 75 Ω termination?

[MarkOZLAD]

They can all be left unconnected.

[KPackratt2k]

Would it be possible to RGB mod a Sony KV-1380R? I've been negotiating with someone who can fix the convergence problems with my KV-27V20 and he offered to fix it if I could mod his set. Doing a quick Google search, this appears to be a 1987-1990 model, so I have a feeling that it might be too old to have a full-color OSD or a secondary RGB input, in which case I'll likely have to resort to either neckboard modding, or S-Video modding. If you had to choose between just those two, which would be the best?

[matt]

Would it be possible to RGB mod a Sony KV-1380R? I've been negotiating with someone who can fix the convergence problems with my KV-27V20 and he offered to fix it if I could mod his set. Doing a quick Google search, this appears to be a 1987-1990 model, so I have a feeling that it might be too old to have a full-color OSD or a secondary RGB input, in which case I'll likely have to resort to either neckboard modding, or S-Video modding. If you had to choose between just those two, which would be the best?

Nope, although I believe you can do an S-Video mod.

[KPackratt2k]

Nope, although I believe you can do an S-Video mod.

Thanks, that's exactly what I thought. The same guy also has a Sony KV-20FV10 that can be RGB modded as it has the BA-4C chassis which is pretty much identical to the BA-4D which has been modded multiple times. I told him that the KV-1380R could only be S-Video modded, so maybe I'll do that some other time if he wants.

[DatPhosphorGlow]

Hello gigantic thread and the few that perhaps actually read it (I'm still working through it).

I've recently come across a 20" JVC CRT TV from 1993 that I have absolutely fallen in love with. It has a practically brand new tube and is a perfect time capsule. The picture it produces with a composite signal rivals sets I've tested with S-Video. The sound it produces is better than almost all TVs I've tested by a long shot (and I've tested a lot). Problem is, it only does RF and composite.

The video it produces via composite is absolutely fine for my NES, SNES, and GENS. But when it comes to my PSX I find the composite picture lacks detail the games require. PSX is as modern as I go. Those are basically the only four consoles I use (GENS has an ED X7 so can also do SMS).

It has an OSD and CC, and is just old enough so I'm pretty sure it can be RGB modded, but what do I know. I'm not at all new to hardware hacks and have been soldering since I was 6 or 7. But am not going to pretend I understand diagrams, schematics, or electical engineering at a level the experts in this thread do.

I can pop it open to get some close ups of the chips and PCB(s) if that's helpful, I haven't cleaned the dust out yet anyway. Service manual including diagrams, schematics, and PCB pictures can be downloaded in PDF form here. Let me know if link is dead for some reason. The model I have is an AV-20CM4.

https://dl-manual.com/doc/12814-jvc-av- ... w7702992z5

I have a JVC AV-20D202 (20" D-Series with component input) that's doing the job for now but it's audio is absolutely trash compared to premium vintage JVC sets. You really don't realize how crappy the build quality is on these modern D-Series TVs till you handle a premium set from the late 80s/early 90s.

Here are some very bad pictures from the day I picked it up for your viewing pleasure. Crappy phone camera didn't focus and used a slow shutter speed, tube picture is actually quite sharper in person. Will try to get better shots. Ignore the values on the FF7 screen, those are actually SUB-SUB picture settings for the TV, menu settings (non-service) were turned way down, took me a while to figure that out. Tube is like new.

Any help/advice greatly appreciated, I shouldn't need too much hand holding, I think. Off to try and catch up on this thread now.

TL;DR I've fallen in love with an old 20" JVC TV (AV-20CM4) from 1993 with a practically new tube in it. Not satisfied with composite, want to RGB mod it if possible.

[matt]

That JVC looks beautiful. They started cutting corners in the late '90s, and their 20" models (including the D) aren't nearly as good as the earlier ones.

However, it looks like the OSD is digital on that model and you won't be able to do an RGB mod. Datasheet for the jungle is here:

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 725AN.html

S-Video looks like it might be possible if the TV doesn't already have it.

[DatPhosphorGlow]

Thanks for digging into that for me matt. I was hoping to replace my BVM with it, that's how much I love this thing.

I sure hope you're wrong, but it sounds like you know what you're talking about. So I'm guessing it needed an analog RGB OSD in order for the hack to work?

I was under the impression that the only obstacles were either not having an OSD, not having a full RGB OSD, or having the jungle and other chip integrated into one so you couldn't intercept the OSD RGB signal. Didn't know some of the OSD signals could be digital and therefore incompatible. That sucks.

Second opinion anyone?

I'm pretty sad if that's the case, but will take what I can get because there is no way I'm getting rid of this TV. It actually does not have S-Video, and from my experience S-Video is usually a huge jump in quality over composite. S-Video modding sounds a lot simpler than RGB modding as I'm guessing there's no need to hack the OSD?

Damn, I was really hopeful to get RGB out of this TV.

[jardelito]

Hi there folks,

I have a Sony Trinitron KV-25FV12B (BA-5) and I installed the RGB MOD with OSD Mix.

I changed all the electrolytic capacitors, but I still have a curved (vertical) line on the left side of the screen, which appears in dark images:



I've already reviewed all the modification, cables, wires position, grounding and so far I've had no success.

Does anyone have any idea what might be generating this vertical curved line?

Thanks for any suggestions, as I've been trying for several days.

[Issac Zachary]

Hi there folks,

I have a Sony Trinitron KV-25FV12B (BA-5) and I installed the RGB MOD with OSD Mix.

I changed all the electrolytic capacitors, but I still have a curved (vertical) line on the left side of the screen, which appears in dark images:

I've already reviewed all the modification, cables, wires position, grounding and so far I've had no success.

Does anyone have any idea what might be generating this vertical curved line?

Thanks for any suggestions, as I've been trying for several days.

Have you tried different consoles to rule out the console?

[KPackratt2k]

I have a little PSA to anyone who has RGB modded (or is looking to RGB mod) a Sony AA-2 chassis TV using a SCART connector. These TVs have a circuit that detects the presence of a stereo audio cable in its video input jacks, so if you wire your SCART connector audio directly to the pads of the RCA jacks on the UV board, your audio will be in mono because the connection that combines mono sound into both audio channels isn't broken.

One solution to this would be to connect a stereo RCA audio cable into the audio jacks for the video input line that you're tapping the SCART connector into, so that the connection for mono is broken. Another solution would be to cut the trace that connects the two audio channels together (usually for when there's only one audio cable connected to one of the channels). For the Video 1 input, this is the trace you want to cut:


Once you do either one of these two things, your SCART audio should be in proper stereo rather than in mono. You may have to do a similar thing with other TVs that detect stereo audio the same way as these ones do.

Hopefully this helps anyone who is modding a Sony TV with an AA-2 chassis.

[Issac Zachary]

I have a little PSA to anyone who has RGB modded (or is looking to RGB mod) a Sony AA-2 chassis TV using a SCART connector...
Hopefully this helps anyone who is modding a Sony TV with an AA-2 chassis.

Thanks! I'll have to check this out on mine! I didn't even pay attention to if it's outputing stereo or mono.

[K470r]

Greetings to all.

I have a Sony KV-27SXR10 TV with a P2B chassis. I was observing the service manual and I consider that this television could be connected to the external RGB lines in the RGB inputs of the NM301 NDC-1 chip.



I have done some tests connecting the external RGB lines and the composite sync connected to video input 1 and I find a nice image but with a ghost effect



I also tried using C-Sync and found a very dark image as shown



Also if I disconnect the three external RGB lines and leave only C-Sync connected to the Video 1 connector, I get this:



If anyone has experience with this chassis; I would like you to help me figure out where and how to connect the 3 external RGB lines and where to connect C-Sync.

I will be very grateful for the recommendations

I leave the chassis manual.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ga599e6yi3lf ... s.pdf?dl=0

[flyingflygon]

Otherwise though the rgb mod on the 14" looks great, and I have another set sitting and waiting to mod soon as well.

Does yours have a horizontal shift when using composite as sync,just tried rf as sync and and pretty much fixed it but don't really want to go to the trouble using that setup.

Yeah, composite sync is a good inch shifted to the left I believe.

Quoting this ancient thread but I have a direct question for LuckyDay and Pikkon. I plan to mod this 13M42 and have been considering the sync problem. As expected, the composite sync strategy shifts the image to the left which can't be rectified in the service menu. How did you two end up fixing this problem for your sets? Was there another location you wired sync into directly?

[lopazopy]

Hello. Looking to see if my TV can be RGB modded. It's a 9" RCA Colortrak Spacesaver, model E0903KW, that is RF only. Chassis number TX82NC.

Link to the schematic. TV does not have the Closed Caption Decoder board installed. The connector for the daughter board is unpopulated (see pic below)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fmDBz- ... sp=sharing

The micon is a ST6497B1/K1 and I cannot find the datasheet for it.

The jungle IC is a M52303ASP and its datasheet can be found here:
https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/4403 ... 52303ASP/1

Here is a pic of the underside of the board showing the unpopulated connector for the closed caption decoder. This is between the micon and jungle IC. The BLK, R, G, and B go to a set of jumpers that can be seen on the right. I'm sure I can splice in my signal here, but not sure about what resistors and caps I need. Also, I'd like to add composite. Can I feed that into V/Out pin on the connector? Thanks for any help!

[MarkOZLAD]

First you’ll need to make sure it’s not a live chassis. A dead giveaway for a live chassis is a transformer prior to the RF tuner.

If it has a live chassis you won’t be able to input a signal without an isolation transformer otherwise the TV can short out through the attached console.

[lopazopy]

First you’ll need to make sure it’s not a live chassis. A dead giveaway for a live chassis is a transformer prior to the RF tuner.

If it has a live chassis you won’t be able to input a signal without an isolation transformer otherwise the TV can short out through the attached console.

Not that I can tell.

[MarkOZLAD]

First you’ll need to make sure it’s not a live chassis. A dead giveaway for a live chassis is a transformer prior to the RF tuner.

If it has a live chassis you won’t be able to input a signal without an isolation transformer otherwise the TV can short out through the attached console.

Not that I can tell.

Looks like it's a Digital OSD input anyway.

[lopazopy]

First you’ll need to make sure it’s not a live chassis. A dead giveaway for a live chassis is a transformer prior to the RF tuner.

If it has a live chassis you won’t be able to input a signal without an isolation transformer otherwise the TV can short out through the attached console.

Not that I can tell.

Looks like it's a Digital OSD input anyway.

Bummer. Thanks for looking.