DVDO EDGE - How it performs

[BuckoA51]

The Edge's audio delay DOES change when changing from game to regular.

Yes that's right, sorry I meant why doesn't the audio delay NOT change on the Edge when I turn the game mode off on my HDTV set, if HDMI 1.3 is intelligent enough to tell devices about processing delay further down the chain (which in my case it's not as you just stated)

I see, so the best way to hook up a HDMI amp would be DVDO Edge HDMI AV Out -> AMP -> TV, rather than DVDO Edge HDMI Audio out -> Amp and then DVDO Edge HDMI AV Out -> TV ? Making sure to turn off any video processing on the amp if present, of course.

[Fudoh]

I would not route video through the amp - you never know. If you use the audio HDMI out or just SPDIF is up to your amp's specs. Also if you got a modern AVR I would set the additional audio delay there and not neccessarily on the Edge. To be honest I don't see your problem (aside from auto lip sync not working).

[BuckoA51]

aside from auto lip sync not working

That >is< the problem and the reason I was considering an upgrade. It's extremely annoying to watch a film and have to spend time faffing about going, "oh is it ok now or do you want another 10ms on ?"

[Konsolkongen]

Why don't you just turn off motion-flow? Do you really like that stuff?

[Fudoh]

Not to defend "soap-look" on any kind of film material, but motionflow on my Sony is the greatest invention since flatscreens have been introduced. I watch movies in 48/50fps which is one extra frame per genuine frame. Fantastic as it smoothes out pans without introduding the feared live-tv/soap look. The TV can also do 72/75fps and 96/100fps, but that's too much. On video material (e.g. downloaded live-TV, sports, talk shows, ...) I use motionflow to turn 29.976fps back into 59.94fps. Best thing ever

[BuckoA51]

Disabling Motionflow helps but doesn't completely solve the problem, I suspect there's still has to be some frame interpolation going on there anyway though I'm not 100% sure.

[Fudoh]

What TV do you have ?

[BuckoA51]

KDL-40Z4500. The other theory is it is something the PS3 is doing, perhaps something changed in the firmware that Sony are always tinkering with, as I've only just started having the problem, though I don't watch that many blu-rays. My air conditioning broke down on the weekend (lucky for me it's almost winter) so I think a fancy new amp is out of the question, have to keep plodding on with what I've got.

[palette]

the component cable works and the ps2 settings are also correct. the ps2 does fine via component on my tv set.

If your PS2 works fine on your TV via component and your XBOX360 works fine on you Edge via component then the only difference that I can see is the type of signals. The PS2 mainly outputs 480i/576i depending on wether it is NTSC or PAL and I can only assume that your XBOX 360 is set to output a progressive signal, 480/720/1080p.

I would try another 480i/576i device or a 240p PS1 game via component on the Edge just to eliminate the possibilty that there isn't some weird fault with 480i/576i sources. It's probably a long shot but I always try to eliminate even the strangest of possibilties when I have an unknown fault like yours.

I found a "solution" for my problem. when I plug the stereo connectors of the ps2 component cable in the edge, or when they are not plugged in at all, then I have no picture or just a distorted picture. when I connect them to my pc speakers, then suddenly a normal picture appears. I have no idea why it behaves like that. what could be the problem?

[Fudoh]

a shitty third party component cable which has no seperate audio and video ground wires... replace the cable.

[palette]

a shitty third party component cable which has no seperate audio and video ground wires... replace the cable.

I bought a new one (piranha extreme) but the problem is still there. now it became even worse. I have no picture when I connect it to my pc speakers. that worked for some days, but not anymore. and it doesn't matter which component cable I use. but everything works fine when I connect it directly to my tv set.

do I have to buy a much more expensive component cable, maybe the one from sony?

[BuckoA51]

Sounds more like a fault with the PS2 itself, can you try a friends console and see if the same issue occurs?

[Konsolkongen]

do I have to buy a much more expensive component cable, maybe the one from sony?

What kind of modchip does your PS2 have? If I press Circle and Triangle on boot a menu pops up on mine. If I change the video mode to anything else than normal it does sometimes mess up the picture. You should try entering such a menu and confirm that all the settings are set to default.
Although it does sound strange that the old cable suddenly worked when you connected a pair of PC speakers :/

[palette]

I have two ps2, one of them has a modchip, but it's the same issue with both. and I only see a picture when I connect the component cable in a certain way to my pc speakers (with a 3.5mm to 2xRCA adapter). and that only sometimes works, I think there is a loose contact inside the adapter.

when I use other audio adapters (an RCA coupler and 3.5mm to RCA cable) from the component cable to the speakers I have no picture. when I connect it to my stereo receiver I also have no picture.

I really have no idea what's going on .

[Konsolkongen]

Xbox 360 with component cables was working fine right? Component on the 360 only supports progressive resolutions, right?
Have you tried another console with component cables that can output in interlaced? Like a Xbox, Gamecube or Wii. Perhaps the problem lies with the deinterlacing part of the EDGE?

Sorry, I base this on nothing, but that's what I would try next

EDIT: Whoops, Kel already suggested this earlier

[palette]

I found a solution which is really strange. when I connect ps2 and edge to different power sockets, then (nearly) everything works fine. I have a nice picture and there is no flickering anymore.

and it make a difference which of my ps2 is connected to the edge. my older ps2 (one of the first ps2 slims) only works when another source is connected to the other component input of the edge. but this source must be a real device, it's not working when I just plug a component cable in. my newer ps2 (the latest slim model) works without anything connected to the other component input.

but it is always required that ps2 and edge are on different power sockets. if not then almost nothing goes.

maybe somebody has an explanation for that, or is my edge just making fun of me.

[Fudoh]

You have a serious ground problem in your electric cabling....

[palette]

You have a serious ground problem in your electric cabling....

what do you mean? is there a problem with the eletric installation of my room or with my technical equipment?

[Fudoh]

Either with your installation in case you're using direct wall outlets, or you're using bad power distribution strips.

[Konsolkongen]

I'm just trying my MVS on EDGE again directly with RGBs.

It still doesn't work when taking video directly from the MVS, but if I use my supergun with a build in Extron RGB interface it works... or almost at least.



For some reason it sees the signal as 480i. It doesn't matter if I switch off DDSP on the Extron or not either :/

Disabling Gamemode it looks pretty good although with classic deinterlacing errors like dropshadows and flickering sprites looking all stripey and a whooping 79ms delay With Gamemode the image is flickering like any other 480i sources but at least now the flickering sprites and dropshadows look fine. This is still with a pretty high delay of 25ms mind you.

So, if I go the HDfury > SLG3000 way and use slightly flickering Gamemode will the scanlines cover this and make it look great?

It's strange that I can't get the MVS (4 slot btw) to work by just taking video from the MVS directly. Fudoh has tried this and it worked fine. Someone once suggested that a variable resistor on the sync line might solve this. Any thoughts on that?

[BuckoA51]

MVS/AES's sure seem troublesome! I take it you've tried it into the other RCA inputs (the RGBHV ones) as they can produce different results as discussed a couple pages back.

[Konsolkongen]

R > R
G > G
B > B
Sync > H. sync
?

I haven't tried that yet.

[BuckoA51]

Yeah exactly that, see what happens when you try that, can give a sharper picture sometimes, or might just fail completely (probably the latter!).

[Konsolkongen]

Doing that it does give a picture without the Superguns Extron, but it looses sync :/

There is also other things wrong with it. Colorspace is mistaken for YPbPr (which means a loss of colors like it does with VGA sources, right?), and it thinks it's displaying a strange 239p resolution and as a result there is a strange horizontal line at the bottom of the screen (can't be seen in my picture). Trying the same with Saturn gave the same results, although no loss of sync.



Screw it. I have pretty much made up my mind that my next big purchase will be a SEGA arcade cabinet with a multisync monitor. Preferable a Blast City. If that shit doesn't work the the MVS nothing will

[Artemio]

hahaha The MVS has no issues on arcade monitors, at lest in neither of mine... =P

[Hamburglar]

Has your dsub to RCA got appropriate grounds?

It's not the cable because if you recall I already attempted to use the screw terminals and got the exact same results.

The creator of the breakout board, which is giving me the exact same "too dark" problem as the SyncStrike, said this:

"If the only problem is it's very dark then it could be double terminated. It has an output impedance of 75 ohms and is designed to be terminated at 75 ohms at the receiver. Try hooking it up directly to a PVM and it should show a bright picture."

Can anyone elaborate? I don't own a PVM, and other people here are using their plasmas with a DVDO Edge and SyncStrike just fine, so I'm really at a loss as to what it could be.

Some of the older PAL SNES units with the separate PPU/CPU chips will give a very dark picture when used with a scart cable that has caps in it like the official Gamecube scart cable. I'm not sure if it is the same with the older NTSC SNES units though as I've never owned one. The newer SNES units with the PPUs/CPU combined (1-CHIP) don't seem to have this problem though.

Try using a scart cable with resistors instead of caps in it. The diagram on the site below for the PAL SNES at the top is the type I mean.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... t.htm#snes

I'm using an SNES from the USA, and one of the ones I am trying is the model 2, and they are all incredibly dark.

[Fudoh]

The SNES Model 2 does *not* support RGB unless it's modded. If you try a RGB cable on an unmodded one you only get composite. If you try this cable on a RGB to component converter, it does not work, unless you route the composite signal past the transcoder (that was you, right?). If you use the same cable on a sync strike, the signal gets basically eliminated, so it's no wonder you get a superdark picture (I'm actually surprised that you get one at all).

Here's some info on the neccessary RGB mod: http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:snes2rgb

[Hamburglar]

Thanks, what I meant was it's RGB modded but still giving me the super dark picture, meaning it's not from something in the old style SNES systems as he suggested.

[Fudoh]

hehe, ok, good to hear. Let's hear about your progress once you get the Edge back from Simplay. Did they say anything about how long an exchange/repair will take ?

[Hamburglar]

hehe, ok, good to hear. Let's hear about your progress once you get the Edge back from Simplay. Did they say anything about how long an exchange/repair will take ?

No sir, hopefully not too long. This is my 2nd time sending it back; I wonder if they just swap it with a new/refurb or if they sit there and try to fix my unit.