XRGB-mini Framemeister

[HydrogLox]

I think the hardest part to obtain is the Dreamcast side cable with all the necessary leads - most DC VGA box cables wouldn't have the C Sync lead necessary for RGB (15kHz).

I haven't come across any VGA boxes that have the CSYNC connection wired. However, years ago I found some fully wired Dreamcast leads. I used one for a SCART cable (with CSYNC IIRC), and still have two left...

To the right person those cables are golden. They are probably best used to convert the Dreamcast AV connection to an insanely common DE-15 if you are into your own custom cables - it would also help to prevent wear and tear on the Dreamcast AV contacts (through repeated RGB/VGA cable swapping). You could even build a "DC Super AV Box" that goes beyond standard DC VGA boxes by also offering a RGB SCART connection. You most certainly could build that "DC XRGB-mini Box" based on the wiring of GameSX: Dreamcast 480p/480i SCART Cable so you would only have flip a switch whenever you run into a RGB Dreamcast game that blocks "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" mode.

The thing I'm curious to try is whether or not CSYNC from the DC is active in 31kHz mode.

I would be surprised if it was. Based on GameSX: Dreamcast AV Connector I suspect that C-Sync (10) is only live when ground is on Mode Select 1 (6) XOR Mode Select 2 (7). Applying ground to Mode Select 1 (6) AND Mode Select 2 (7) probably kills C-Sync (10) in favor of live V-Sync (8) and H-Sync (9) signals.

However Dreamcast 15khz/31khz VGA mod does suggests that V-Sync (8) and H-Sync (9) are live with a 15 kHz sync during "15 kHz RGB (SCART)" mode. So I guess it is possible that C-Sync (10) has a 31 kHz sync signal during "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" mode - in that case you would not even need a Sync Combiner provided your cable gives it access to C-Sync (10).

The issue is to be able to route all your retro consoles (including the Sega Dreamcast) through the scaler

See that's what I thought, but I don't understand why you're making it so complicated, unless you're determined to build your own custom cable. You just mod your VGA box to output both 15khz and 31khz, then feed the output of that into either an extron RGB interface or ArcadeForge's UMSA. From there you've got everything going down a SCART cable (well, with the Extron you'll have 4 x RCA you can then just get a breakout cable to whatever you need) You then just use a SCART to Mini adapter and you're done.

I am actually trying to make things "less complicated" by only having essential circuitry between the Dreamcast and the XRGB-mini. The "DC XRGB-mini Box" only has a switch for the Dreamcast "Mode Select" to switch between "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" and "15 kHz RGB (SCART)" mode and the (minimal) Sync Combiner to feed the "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" mode's V-Sync (8) and H-Sync (9) into the XRGB-mini, nothing else. If there is a 15 kHz signal on V-Sync (8) and H-Sync (9) in "15 kHz RGB (SCART)" mode (as suggested above) then you can use just a cable from a DC VGA Box to build an XRGB-mini adaptor based on GameSX: Dreamcast 480p/480i SCART Cable by always routing the output of the Sync Combiner to the XRGB-mini C- Sync (3). If you are using a SCART selector switch you can use the same trick by wiring the other end to a SCART plug rather than a Mini DIN 8.

[Smashbro29]

Am I right in assuming that if I get this:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:d ... cart_cable

All my problems are solved?

[HydrogLox]

Am I right in assuming that if I get this:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:d ... cart_cable

All my problems are solved?

I think so - but the problem is acquiring a Dreamcast cable that has ALL the necessary leads. Also you may not even need a Sync Combiner if in fact C-Sync (10) delivers a combined 31 kHz Sync in "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" mode. Then you should be able to "get everything" on a normal Dreamcast RGB SCART cable if you can modify the Dreamcast AV connector to make the Mode Select 2 (7) contact ground-able via a switch. As an RGB SCART doesn't need a contact there, the modification may be difficult to impossible. Currently the most feasible solution seems to be to scavenge a DC VGA Box cable and to built a cable based on GameSX: Dreamcast 480p/480i SCART Cable but omit the C-Sync (10) (for which the lead doesn't exist) and hardwire (i.e. do not switch) the output of the Sync Combiner to the composite sync contact on the Mini-DIN 8/SCART side.

[Smashbro29]

Am I right in assuming that if I get this:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:d ... cart_cable

All my problems are solved?

I think so - but the problem is acquiring a Dreamcast cable that has ALL the necessary leads. Also you may not even need a Sync Combiner if in fact C-Sync (10) delivers a combined 31 kHz Sync in "31 kHz RGB (VGA)" mode. Then you should be able to "get everything" on a normal Dreamcast RGB SCART cable if you can modify the Dreamcast AV connector to make the Mode Select 2 (7) contact ground-able via a switch. As an RGB SCART doesn't need a contact there, the modification may be difficult to impossible. Currently the most feasible solution seems to be to scavenge a DC VGA Box cable and to built a cable based on GameSX: Dreamcast 480p/480i SCART Cable but omit the C-Sync (10) (for which the lead doesn't exist) and hardwire (i.e. do not switch) the output of the Sync Combiner to the composite sync contact on the Mini-DIN 8/SCART side.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not really an expert just a guy looking to future proof all his old stuff, figure I'll just REALLY spend now and never spend again, y'know?

My move is to pay someone to do it for me, right now I have a retrobit VGA box for my Dreamcast, I basically need to know what to tell someone who CAN do it for me to do. The goal (as you know) is to get the "VGA mode" quality out of games that need it and be able to switch over to RGB if they don't all in one neat cable. I think that's what you just gave me (again, my head is SPINNING right now), right?

[HydrogLox]

My move is to pay someone to do it for me, right now I have a retrobit VGA box for my Dreamcast, I basically need to know what to tell someone who CAN do it for me to do.

Things are more tricky if you are trying to retain the original DC VGA Box functionality - but with a little bit of effort the risks can be mitigated.

If the DC VGA Box design is based on the GamesSX: Dreamcast VGA Box Schematic then the minimal modifications to the DC VGA Box are:

• Put a switch between Mode Select 2 (7) and Ground (1). Provided the box's switch is in the VGA position the new switch will select 15 kHz when open and 31 kHz when closed (grounded).
• While you are in there get a tap on the Dreamcast +5V (5) and Ground (1) for your "Sync Combiner Box". Go with a barrel type socket that cannot be confused with the 3.5 mm stereo plug for the audio.

"Sync Combiner Box". Inputs:

• A DC (direct current) connector cable with a male plug matching your socket added to the DC VGA Box.
• A cable with a 3.5 mm male stereo connector to plug into the "VGA audio" socket on the DC VGA Box.
• A cable with a male VGA connector with at least pins 1, 2, 3, 13, 14 and ground shielding wired which connects to the DC VGA Box's VGA socket.

"Sync Combiner Box". Outputs - your choice of either:

• A cable with a male Mini-DIN 8 connector for the XRGB-mini OR
• A cable with a male SCART connector for a SCART selector switch or the Micomsoft XRGB Mini Sync booster for Euro SCART to XRGB Mini 8 pin adaptor cable.

Inside the "Sync Combiner Box" the audio left and right and the red, green, blue signal are simply routed to the other side and connected to the appropriate leads. The DC (direct current) cable supplies the power for the "Sync Combiner" circuit. The VGA H-Sync (13) and V-Sync (14) feed into the "Sync Combiner Circuit". The output of the "Sync Combiner Circuit" is the C-Sync for the output of the "Sync Combiner Box".

When you are using the DC VGA Box with your XRGB-mini Framemeister the original switch needs to be always in the VGA/PC position. Most of the time you will have your new switch in the "31 kHz" position but when you run into an RGB game that won't boot, simply set the new switch to "15 kHz".

[Smashbro29]

My move is to pay someone to do it for me, right now I have a retrobit VGA box for my Dreamcast, I basically need to know what to tell someone who CAN do it for me to do.

Things are more tricky if you are trying to retain the original DC VGA Box functionality - but with a little bit of effort the risks can be mitigated.

If the DC VGA Box design is based on the GamesSX: Dreamcast VGA Box Schematic then the minimal modifications to the DC VGA Box are:

• Put a switch between Mode Select 2 (7) and Ground (1). Provided the box's switch is in the VGA position the new switch will select 15 kHz when open and 31 kHz when closed (grounded).
• While you are in there get a tap on the Dreamcast +5V (5) and Ground (1) for your "Sync Combiner Box". Go with a barrel type socket that cannot be confused with the 3.5 mm stereo plug for the audio.

"Sync Combiner Box". Inputs:

• A DC (direct current) connector cable with a male plug matching your socket added to the DC VGA Box.
• A cable with a 3.5 mm male stereo connector to plug into the "VGA audio" socket on the DC VGA Box.
• A cable with a male VGA connector with at least pins 1, 2, 3, 13, 14 and ground shielding wired which connects to the DC VGA Box's VGA socket.

"Sync Combiner Box". Outputs - your choice of either:

• A cable with a male Mini-DIN 8 connector for the XRGB-mini OR
• A cable with a male SCART connector for a SCART selector switch or the Micomsoft XRGB Mini Sync booster for Euro SCART to XRGB Mini 8 pin adaptor cable.

Inside the "Sync Combiner Box" the audio left and right and the red, green, blue signal are simply routed to the other side and connected to the appropriate leads. The DC (direct current) cable supplies the power for the "Sync Combiner" circuit. The VGA H-Sync (13) and V-Sync (14) feed into the "Sync Combiner Circuit". The output of the "Sync Combiner Circuit" is the C-Sync for the output of the "Sync Combiner Box".

When you are using the DC VGA Box with your XRGB-mini Framemeister the original switch needs to be always in the VGA/PC position. Most of the time you will have your new switch in the "31 kHz" position but when you run into an RGB game that won't boot, simply set the new switch to "15 kHz".

My box looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-S-Video-Adapt ... trobit+vga

I don't know if it fits the criteria.

UNRELATED EDIT:
Just put in an order for these 2 fine items:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micomsoft-XRGB- ... 2ec46fe148
http://www.solarisjapan.com/products/D% ... le%29.html

Thanks for the help so far guys! I'm so close to living that dream.

[Midnight Milkshake]

Hi!

I'm thinking about buying a frameister, but need to know if it outputs 1080p/24. Fudoh said at the beginning of the thread before it was released that it couldn't, but haven't found any more info after that, can somebody help me? , thanks!

[Fudoh]

No, it does not. Are you sure you need it ? Most modern TV sets have perfect IVTC functions, so it doesn't make the slightest difference it you feed 1080p24 or 1080p60 from a movie source.

[HydrogLox]

My box looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-S-Video-Adapt ... trobit+vga

That's the same one that I got (first) ... and from day one the 3.5 mm stereo audio jack has been finicky. If you have a problem like that I would be tempted to get a project box large enough accommodate both the DC VGA Box PCB and the sync combiner perfboard and allow for sturdy mounting of new higher quality switches, audio, composite video, S-Video and VGA jacks - and an additional Mini-DIN 8 jack. Then a straight Mini-DIN 8 cable could hook you up to the XRGB-mini and a custom Mini-DIN 8 to SCART cable would allow you to use it through a SCART selector switch. Just don't use the the Mini-DIN 8 and VGA jack at the same time - you have no idea how robust those buffer circuits are. Also, if possible, have the TV/PC switch mechanically disconnect the sync combiner inputs in the "TV" position to cut the drain on the original circuitry. I also forgot to mention that in "TV" mode the new switch would always have to be in the "15 kHz" position - the DC VGA box circuitry won't do anything useful on "TV" and "31 kHz".

The second DC VGA Box I got is the Dreamcast VGA/AV/S-VIDEO HD HDTV Box - Improved Design!. It works - but the particular specimen that I received has fairly rough and uneven contacts inside the Dreamcast AV connector, so much that I cringe imagining what they are doing to the AV contacts on the Dreamcast PCB.

[Midnight Milkshake]

No, it does not. Are you sure you need it ? Most modern TV sets have perfect IVTC functions, so it doesn't make the slightest difference it you feed 1080p24 or 1080p60 from a movie source.

Well, if you say I don't need it, I trust you . I use my mac for the .mkv playback and emulators connected by HDMI to a Pioneer lx 5090, also will use the frameister with PS2, Wii, Xbox (these through component), Xbox 360 (shmups with scanlines), a Neo Geo AES and a supergun. If you know a better setup ( some scaler plus slg3000, as i've read at your site), please tell me, thanks!

[Fudoh]

I wouldn't run the Mac through the Mini. Also, I'm not saying that you don't need 1080p24. I don't know if your Kuro has a proper IVTC. Never had the pleasure to have one at home.

[Midnight Milkshake]

Why? I've used it with bsnes without any apparent problems

The kuro has lot of options, like 2:2, 3:2 and 3:3 pulldown for films, and another with smoothing, so it handles 24f well; also has different "drive" modes for pal frequency 72, 75 and 100 hz. Do you think that the scaler with the slg3000 is a better option in this case? thanks!

[Thomago]

Reminds me of asking something:

Since I don't own a TV set I use the Mini as a processor for watching movies as well. From what I've seen I'm 100% sure that the Mini does automatic 2:2 pulldown removal and 99% sure that it does automatic 3:2 pulldown removal. Can someone confirm this? Is there any definite way of testing this?
Also, I found that the Picture mode ist not suitable for 2:2 pulldown removal in movies; from time to time it results in heavy jaggies.

[Fudoh]

Why? I've used it with bsnes without any apparent problems

It's fine for emus, but then again just use software scanlines. But software based media players (without a hardware clock) can't keep exact output refresh rates, so you'll end with problems on most newer TV sets.

The kuro has lot of options, like 2:2, 3:2 and 3:3 pulldown for films,

If the 3:2 pulldown function is solid, then feeding 1080p60 is the same as feeding 1080p24.

Do you think that the scaler with the slg3000 is a better option in this case? thanks!

no, the Mini's the best processor for low-res material.

Since I don't own a TV set I use the Mini as a processor for watching movies as well. From what I've seen I'm 100% sure that the Mini does automatic 2:2 pulldown removal and 99% sure that it does automatic 3:2 pulldown removal. Can someone confirm this?

The QDEO does this, yes, at least in standard processing mode. Picture is a forced 2:2 deinterlacing mode which you can use for solid PAL (movie) material.

Is there any definite way of testing this?

there are dozens of test sequences. Try to get the Super Speedway scene which is shown everywhere for proper 3:2 IVTC functions. You'll end up with massive moire patterns if the processors switches to video mode there.

Filmmode on top, video mode on the bottom:

[Smashbro29]

My box looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-S-Video-Adapt ... trobit+vga

That's the same one that I got (first) ... and from day one the 3.5 mm stereo audio jack has been finicky. If you have a problem like that I would be tempted to get a project box large enough accommodate both the DC VGA Box PCB and the sync combiner perfboard and allow for sturdy mounting of new higher quality switches, audio, composite video, S-Video and VGA jacks - and an additional Mini-DIN 8 jack. Then a straight Mini-DIN 8 cable could hook you up to the XRGB-mini and a custom Mini-DIN 8 to SCART cable would allow you to use it through a SCART selector switch. Just don't use the the Mini-DIN 8 and VGA jack at the same time - you have no idea how robust those buffer circuits are. Also, if possible, have the TV/PC switch mechanically disconnect the sync combiner inputs in the "TV" position to cut the drain on the original circuitry. I also forgot to mention that in "TV" mode the new switch would always have to be in the "15 kHz" position - the DC VGA box circuitry won't do anything useful on "TV" and "31 kHz".

The second DC VGA Box I got is the Dreamcast VGA/AV/S-VIDEO HD HDTV Box - Improved Design!. It works - but the particular specimen that I received has fairly rough and uneven contacts inside the Dreamcast AV connector, so much that I cringe imagining what they are doing to the AV contacts on the Dreamcast PCB.

Mine looks like this : http://imtransfer.im4mobile.com/uploads ... AG0363.jpg

It works insanely well, I couldn't find a picture online earlier but now I took this picture, is it different? It's got a different logo.

[BuckoA51]

But software based media players (without a hardware clock) can't keep exact output refresh rates, so you'll end with problems on most newer TV sets.

Newer discrete GPU's seem to be doing better at this:-

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4380/disc ... shootout/4

Not enough that I'd trade in my Dune just yet but, promising.

[papa_november]

I like how DC VGA boxes cost more than an actual Dreamcast.

[Fudoh]

Newer discrete GPU's seem to be doing better at this

completely OT, but no, they're not. They're good enough to deliver roughly 24p or 50p or 60p and the video play back frame locked anyway, but you will ALWAYS run into troubles as soon as you want to use any frame interpolation features on your TV's side.

[crmb]

Hello,

I just get my Xmini and have issues with CPS-II.
My problem is about the too high RGB levels.

I have read about 160ohms and 220ohms resistors

Which one should be the best ?
(I searched for an option in the xrgb menu but the only solution is too add physical resistors right ?)

Thank you

[HydrogLox]

It works insanely well, I couldn't find a picture online earlier but now I took this picture, is it different? It's got a different logo.

I think all the rectangular crystal clear enclosure DC VGA boxes use exactly the same design. Different production runs may use components of varying quality but even in the same production run a some dud components may have weaseled their way into the odd shipped unit. I was simply pointing out that you could also choose a single enclosure that includes your "XRGB-mini option" - especially if you use a different, larger enclosure (which may require a new set of jacks).

[Smashbro29]

It works insanely well, I couldn't find a picture online earlier but now I took this picture, is it different? It's got a different logo.

I think all the rectangular crystal clear enclosure DC VGA boxes use exactly the same design. Different production runs may use components of varying quality but even in the same production run a some dud components may have weaseled their way into the odd shipped unit. I was simply pointing out that you could also choose a single enclosure that includes your "XRGB-mini option" - especially if you use a different, larger enclosure (which may require a new set of jacks).

Thinking what would be the cheapest option.

Also, call me slow (or just really busy lately whatever) but I see that the idea is essentially a different kind of VGA box that ends in SCART but instead of switching between VGA and the composite output it'll just have a switch that can change it between "VGA mode" 480p and 240p (for games like Skies of Arcadia that just plain do not support the mode no matter what).

[HydrogLox]

Also, call me slow (or just really busy lately whatever) but I see that the idea is essentially a different kind of VGA box that ends in SCART but instead of switching between VGA and the composite output it'll just have a switch that can change it between "VGA mode" 480p and 240p (for games like Skies of Arcadia that just plain do not support the mode no matter what).

A fully implemented SCART connector could actually handle composite, S-video, RGB and possibly even component signals (separately) but in reality all these options are rarely supported on the same device. You are zeroing on the "RGB SCART" aspect of the standard which is what the Dreamcast "15kHz RGB (SCART)" AV mode (GamesSX: Dreamcast AV Connector) is for. Using the Sync Combiner trick you are funneling the Dreamcast "31kHz RGB (VGA)" AV mode over the same "RGB SCART" wiring to the XRGB-mini. Theoretically the SCART connector could also support the Dreamcast "Standard" AV mode as an S-video or composite signal - but we are not interested in that here. According to Arcade Otaku: Guide - Modding your Dreamcast VGA Box for 15/31kHz output a game could generate a 480i rather than 240p signal in the "15 kHz RGB (SCART)" Dreamcast AV mode.
You may also be interested in the Dreamcast High-Resolution and Low-Resolution games list discussion and Emuparadise: Dreamcast (NTSC-U/PAL) VGA Compatibility List.

[Smashbro29]

Also, call me slow (or just really busy lately whatever) but I see that the idea is essentially a different kind of VGA box that ends in SCART but instead of switching between VGA and the composite output it'll just have a switch that can change it between "VGA mode" 480p and 240p (for games like Skies of Arcadia that just plain do not support the mode no matter what).

A fully implemented SCART connector could actually handle composite, S-video, RGB and possibly even component signals (separately) but in reality all these options are rarely supported on the same device. You are zeroing on the "RGB SCART" aspect of the standard which is what the Dreamcast "15kHz RGB (SCART)" AV mode (GamesSX: Dreamcast AV Connector) is for. Using the Sync Combiner trick you are funneling the Dreamcast "31kHz RGB (VGA)" AV mode over the same "RGB SCART" wiring to the XRGB-mini. Theoretically the SCART connector could also support the Dreamcast "Standard" AV mode as an S-video or composite signal - but we are not interested in that here. According to Arcade Otaku: Guide - Modding your Dreamcast VGA Box for 15/31kHz output a game could generate a 480i rather than 240p signal in the "15 kHz RGB (SCART)" Dreamcast AV mode.
You may also be interested in the Dreamcast High-Resolution and Low-Resolution games list discussion and Emuparadise: Dreamcast (NTSC-U/PAL) VGA Compatibility List.

So how do we make sure we get nothing but 480p VGA for games that support it and 240p RGB for those that don't in one single connection?

[HydrogLox]

I'm confused over all the confusion regarding the Dreamcast. Surely if you don't want to build your own cable or can't find the parts, you just buy ArcadeForge's UMSA

Here's the rub. Their description states "Just make sure that your PC outputs VGA lower resolution with 15Khz and your TV has an RGB Scart interface.". There is no guarantee that the UMSA will accept the 31kHz V-Sync and H-Sync on the VGA input and simply output it as a 31kHz C-Sync on the RGB SCART output as the UMSA is designed for 15kHz CRT displays. However if it does propagate the 31kHz C-Sync then you are correct - all you need is:

• DC VGA Box with the Arcade Otaku: Guide - Modding your Dreamcast VGA Box for 15/31kHz output mod. Leave it switched to PC/VGA and use your new 15kHz/31kHz switch.
• Arcade Forge: UMSA - Ultimate SCART Adapter - needs a separate power supply unless you tap the DC VGA Box (careful with the current requirements).
• Micomsoft XRGB Mini Sync booster for Euro SCART to XRGB Mini 8 pin or European SCART to Framemeister XRGB Mini Converter

See also XRGB Wiki: Sega Dreamcast.

[HydrogLox]

So how do we make sure we get nothing but 480p VGA for games that support it and 240p RGB for those that don't in one single connection?

The game chooses whether it outputs [480i] or [240p] in "15kHz RGB (SCART)" AV mode. So if it outputs in [480i] you better hope it allows "31kHz RGB (VGA)" AV mode [480p] (or at least works with the boot in "Standard" (TV) mode, then switch to "31kHz RGB (VGA)" (PC) mode trick). I don't know it there are any Sega Dreamcast games that only support [480i] without also supporting [480p].

Some of the 16:9 titles: HDTVoice: 16:9 format Dreamcast games?.

[Smashbro29]

So how do we make sure we get nothing but 480p VGA for games that support it and 240p RGB for those that don't in one single connection?

The game chooses whether it outputs [480i] or [240p] in "15kHz RGB (SCART)" AV mode. So if it outputs in [480i] you better hope it allows "31kHz RGB (VGA)" AV mode [480p] (or at least works with the boot in "Standard" (TV) mode, then switch to "31kHz RGB (VGA)" (PC) mode trick). I don't know it there are any Sega Dreamcast games that only support [480i] without also supporting [480p].

Some of the 16:9 titles: HDTVoice: 16:9 format Dreamcast games?.

Seeing as the % of games that won't work with VGA PERIOD is so low the % of games that exclusively output 480i must be obscenely low to the point where I doubt it's worth caring about.

[BuckoA51]

completely OT, but no, they're not. They're good enough to deliver roughly 24p or 50p or 60p and the video play back frame locked anyway, but you will ALWAYS run into troubles as soon as you want to use any frame interpolation features on your TV's side.

Hmm, it's my understanding that on modern GPU's, both the audio and the video is generated by the GPU then sent down the HDMI, which would mean they could share the one clock just like in a dedicated media player. Anyway yes, completely OT and I don't have the money or motivation to build and configure another HTPC to test this theory out.

There is no guarantee that the UMSA will accept the 31kHz V-Sync and H-Sync on the VGA input and simply output it as a 31kHz C-Sync on the RGB SCART output as the UMSA is designed for 15kHz CRT displays.

I asked this in the UMSA thread, I am certain it was said that there's no 31khz protection, ie that 31khz is just passed through to the SCART with C-Sync. I don't own one however so I can't 100% confirm this. I can confirm that an Extron RGB interface will work though, as I have used that for sync combining in the past myself.

[Fudoh]

Hmm, it's my understanding that on modern GPU's, both the audio and the video is generated by the GPU then sent down the HDMI, which would mean they could share the one clock just like in a dedicated media player

yes, but it's a software clock which a number of supported refresh rates and you can still only get "close" to the broadcast standard rates. Media players have a few dedicated refresh rates which are generated by a hardware clock.

I just get my Xmini and have issues with CPS-II.
My problem is about the too high RGB levels.

don't you have variable resistors on your supergun ? I would just add potentiometers instead of fixed resistors. This way you can change the brightness as you like. If you want fixed resistors, use 220 ohm ones.

[BuckoA51]

yes, but it's a software clock which a number of supported refresh rates and you can still only get "close" to the broadcast standard rates. Media players have a few dedicated refresh rates which are generated by a hardware clock.

I don't understand why a GPU couldn't do a hardware clock the same, but I'll do some reading around rather than discussing it further here. Media players are just little embedded computers after all, and the PS3 behaves perfectly with blu-ray and motionflow so I don't see what's stopping the PC working the same way if designed correctly.

[crmb]

Thank you
nope i am not using a supergun but fitting a new xrgb+lcd setup in a blast city (i know, this is evil) getting signal with an AMP.UP -> Din cable. But it seems i will need to mod my cable to add the resistors.

I have used potentiometers (1K i think) in the past for a consolised MVS, but i was thinking about using fixed 0,1% resistors for this new setup, but i will think about it.