Zets13 wrote:I have an NTSC-J SCPH-7000 model PlayStation. It appears to have a modchip installed (12c508) via 2 pins directly soldered to the board and 2 wires. Since I have no use for a modchip and prefer to keep consoles as stock as possible unless the mod gives me some benefit, I want to remove it.
I know nothing about PS modchips, but I assume such mods involve simply adding the chip without removing or adding any other components, so am I safe to assume that all I have to do is desolder the chip and remove the jumper wires attached to it, correct?
Hard to say since I have no idea what's the purpose of the chip is modded for, especially if there's a chance a lead has been cutoff and/or component has been removed. Did the previous owner (or the person who modded it for you) told you what type of modded chip is installed? Pictures of it would be nice to analyze this properly as well. This will help figuring out whether or not just desoldering the chip off is all you need to do.
Also anyone know a good place to order custom artwork and plexi-cover for T5/HRAP controllers besides Tek-Innovations?
I have a damn nice 32 or so inch acer flatscreen monitor that i want to tate. it doesnt have like a swivel or anything but its really light and thin and i can just pick it up off the base and brace it against the wall.
will tateing my lcd screen like this potentially do any damage to it?
Thanks!
VSM|Jailhouse I'm a FGC guy who loves shmups but sucks and plays on and off
I have a damn nice 32 or so inch acer flatscreen monitor that i want to tate. it doesnt have like a swivel or anything but its really light and thin and i can just pick it up off the base and brace it against the wall.
will tateing my lcd screen like this potentially do any damage to it?
Thanks!
If you have something to hold it up and secure it up, it will not damage it. LCDs don't have ray guns in it, so picture quality will stay the same no matter how you rotate.
I have a damn nice 32 or so inch acer flatscreen monitor that i want to tate. it doesnt have like a swivel or anything but its really light and thin and i can just pick it up off the base and brace it against the wall.
will tateing my lcd screen like this potentially do any damage to it?
Thanks!
If you have something to hold it up and secure it up, it will not damage it. LCDs don't have ray guns in it, so picture quality will stay the same no matter how you rotate.
yeah thought so. this is going to rule
VSM|Jailhouse I'm a FGC guy who loves shmups but sucks and plays on and off
Only specially crafted RGB cables which use raw sync instead of composite video work only on NTSC Saturn systems. If you use them with a PAL Saturn system you get 12V routed into the sync line which pretty much can kill any processor.
beatsgo wrote:LCDs don't have ray guns in it, so picture quality will stay the same no matter how you rotate.
Of course, the direction in which you are looking at the screen from will cause some shifts in image quality, especially on TN panels.
Best to test this out by looking at it from the side and then (if it seems reasonable) try putting it into the position you envision, and see if the colors are uniform from top to bottom when viewed that way.
It is always frustrating to spend money on a swivel stand only to find you can't stand the result!
hector wrote:the top right corner of my PVM-14L2 has a light greenish tint. I've seen this on some CRTs before. Is there any way to help/fix this?
You know, I'd love a solution to this too as I have a similar problem. Never bothered to ask about it I guess. I can get mine to sort of move to a different corner by using the "rotation" setting in the alignment menu but that's not much help. The built in degauss feature doesn't affect it either so I've never bothered with an external degaussing wand.
OK so I got a good deal on a Tech Link SCARTFLEX cable like this...
The problem is i need to rewire one end for JP RGB21, but not sure how to pop open these connectors?
Also, if there is any cheap way to turn Euro SCART RGB into composite video (pulling the composite line like normal will not work because the signal is only coming through on RGB lines) i would be interested?
if i were to have the sony kdl42w650 and say a panasonic p42st60 I taught that for gaming you should go with a plasma and that a lcd tv wouldn't be able to produce as good a picture. ie plasma tv technology was kinder to 480i games like on the ps2 and gamecube.
Rather than bust open your expensive cable surely an adaptor would suffice?
I don't understand your second question.
Why do Extron Crosspoint switches need clean sync? Is it because there's simply not enough bandwidth on the input/outputs to pass through the composite video signal or does it do some internal sync processing like the Extron RGB units do?
Anyone have any experience with Thomson TVs? I've been offered a 4:3 which shouldn't be 100hz for peanuts - so I'm thinking that it might be worth a shot - if the general quality of Thomson sets are up to par.
The model in question is 29DL22E, but any experience with Thomson sets would be great to know of.
RGB32E wrote:Have any of you identified the correct tool bit for opening official SNES and NES AC adapters?
Some guys over at nintendoage mentioned you need a spanner bit to open a SNES adapter. Dunno if it's used for NES, but should work. They sort of look like the screws used on drum sets.
I'm having trouble figuring out what type of capacitor the green ones are, could someone inform me?
Man, the Micomsoft XE-1 ST2 is a bit of a minefield. So, huge post here, but if somebody wants to take a look at theirs and answer a simple question I'd be grateful.
Simple question: Is the restrictor mechanism supposed to be so spongy? Is the turning button dial supposed to be so stiff? Is the joystick supposed to give a few millimeters when you push it straight down into the case? I think the answer to all these is "yes, that's normal," and that makes me sad.
So then, if you're thinking of refurbishing or even opening your XE-1 ST2...
I recently (a couple months ago, actually) decided to finally reassemble mine (which had been sitting opened for a few years). Maybe lost one of the outer case screws - not a major problem. Getting rid of the yellowed old grease and replacing - not a problem, just used a q-tip a few places.
The rotating dial for the buttons is really tight. On reflection, this must be by design - don't expect to spin it back and forth by putting your finger in the groove alone. You'll probably need some leverage. There are three black plastic clamps in a triangle; they hold the metal disc tight to the top half of the controller's case, and one has a bit of metal to give it that satisfying 'click' and hold it in position - I got the screws tight in the clamps (make sure that you've 'clicked' into position and you're not trying to screw down while that metal click stop is in the way). I tried it out with the clamps a bit untightened, and it didn't make a difference, so I tightened 'em up. Make sure you put new grease around the metal dial inside, of course.
The damn variable restrictor plate...alright, here's what the controller is like from top to bottom, as it sits waiting to be used: Top shell half, the restrictor's round attachment plate for the variable restrictor halves (the restrictor halves swing on this, and if you detach them from it, putting them back on is not exceptionally intuitive), variable restrictor halves, and THEN the textured dust washer - below this is the actual joystick PCB and then the bottom shell.
Now, you would think that the dust washer should sit above the variable restrictor plate halves. You could try putting the dust washer over the round attachment plate for the restrictor halves, but then the plate's indicator dot (which points towards the orientation of the restrictor - 8-way or 4-way) wouldn't be visible. You can fit the dust washer inside the round attachment plate for the variable restrictor halves, but that's wrong; it can't fit in there while the restrictor halves are attached - they've got some plastic that reaches up inside there. The reason for that is that there's some plastic sliding magic maze stuff (for lack of the technical term) intended to keep the restrictor halves moving in a specific track. So the dust washer has to go under everything. The downside is that there's more room for dust to get inside the stick now. As you have to place the restrictor plate and halves in the stick upside-down, another downside is that you have to place it right and then do everything else very carefully, because the dust washer is in the way of carefully reseating the restrictor halves.
And even with things attached and in place, the joystick and the restrictor are both spongy. Press down on the joystick and it travels down a few milimeters. There is no question of this being due to my incompetence in putting the thing back together; it's just made that way. Likewise, the restrictor's round attachment plate moves back and forth, and kind of springs back up when it feels like it. There's no room for a spring, and it kind of works anyways. The feeling just isn't satisfying - I woulda liked for it to snap into place with more authority.
Alright, now you've got your restrictor in place and made sure the indicator dot is pointing inwards towards the center of the stick, rather than towards the outside, which is 180 degrees off - not fatal, just looks wrong. Now you put the joystick through that, and secure it with the single screw right next to some wires' solder point. Now - hold on, the pin header on the joystick PCB into which the actual controller cable is attached has to snake around the joystick, up to the top / back of the stick, and then it goes under (as it looks with the top half of the joystick casing facing downwards, as you will do while reassembling it) the joystick PCB. More likely than not you didn't pull the connector cable wire far enough under the PCB, as there's a plastic leg jutting out of the middle of the case. You can just kind of push the wire under that and into place.
The first six times you open the stick and put it back, you have no problem getting the wire attached to the bottom half of the stick and then reattaching the outer case halves (mind that little locking point on the bottom-front of the joystick, as the entire thing looks while sitting normally in use - you connect the front of the case first). For some reason, weeks after you reassemble the stick you second-guess yourself, because the restrictor plate is weird feeling and so you open the thing, and then proceed to put the restrictor plate in 180 degrees backwards the first time, and then you can't close the case. Squeak, squeak - you pull the connector cable to the side of the case repeatedly but it still won't close nicely. Somehow or other you finally manage it, screw everything back into place, and then sign.
But the damn restrictor plate still looks and feels wrong.
I've had an Extron Super Emotia kicking around for a while now. I was able to demonstrate that it works fine when I received it, however I'd like to connect it to my NTSC Sony TV's component inputs. The sync is a seperate output on the Extron, I've never dealt with this before. Whenever people discuss this device they seem to be hooking up to arcade monitors. Any suggestion as to how this can be done?
Galgomite wrote:I've had an Extron Super Emotia kicking around for a while now. I was able to demonstrate that it works fine when I received it, however I'd like to connect it to my NTSC Sony TV's component inputs. The sync is a seperate output on the Extron, I've never dealt with this before. Whenever people discuss this device they seem to be hooking up to arcade monitors. Any suggestion as to how this can be done?
The JROK Video Encoder will be your best bet. It does require a bnc to header connector as you can see of the encoder in the link.
Galgomite wrote:I've had an Extron Super Emotia kicking around for a while now. I was able to demonstrate that it works fine when I received it, however I'd like to connect it to my NTSC Sony TV's component inputs. The sync is a seperate output on the Extron, I've never dealt with this before. Whenever people discuss this device they seem to be hooking up to arcade monitors. Any suggestion as to how this can be done?
The JROK Video Encoder will be your best bet. It does require a bnc to header connector as you can see of the encoder in the link.
Thanks, I see I have a bit to learn to make this work.
Are Xbox 360s in Korea the same region as Japan? Play-Asia's compatibility chart seems to say so, just looking for more confirmation. I'll be taking a trip to Korea this summer and hope to find one for a decent price.
japtor wrote:Are Xbox 360s in Korea the same region as Japan? Play-Asia's compatibility chart seems to say so, just looking for more confirmation. I'll be taking a trip to Korea this summer and hope to find one for a decent price.
JP Xbox 360s should be able to play Asia Regional games unless noted.
Is NTSC AV cables always the best for use with ones NTSC consoles? I live in a PAL region so im using tv's primary made for PAL but most will do NTSC anyway.
japtor wrote:Are Xbox 360s in Korea the same region as Japan? Play-Asia's compatibility chart seems to say so, just looking for more confirmation. I'll be taking a trip to Korea this summer and hope to find one for a decent price.
JP Xbox 360s should be able to play Asia Regional games unless noted.
Meant the other way around, can 360s in Korea (Asia region I guess?) play all JP games? Basically just want to be able to play Ketsupachi and Mushi HD.
Separate question while I'm posting here, can the plunger and rim be swapped between the regular (OBSF 30 I think) and RG Sanwa buttons? I was thinking about some clear buttons and mixing them with my existing buttons (for opaque/clear rim/plunger combos) but just realized I have the RG ones.
spaceape wrote:Is NTSC AV cables always the best for use with ones NTSC consoles? I live in a PAL region so im using tv's primary made for PAL but most will do NTSC anyway.
Thanks.
A lot of us in NTSC lands use cables with a European SCART pinout to carry RGB signals. The connector type used is separate (at least practically so, in most cases, absent strange ones like S-Video where NTSC regions used a small round connector, while I understand that many SCART plugs have pins dedicated for S-Video) and so as long as the set actually supports NTSC signals, you just send that RGB signal across it like you would for a PAL console.
