Questions that do not deserve a thread

[ryu]

i just noticed my ps2s display some noisy, faint green where there should be plain black.

is this what people are referring to when they say the ps2 has a noisy component signal...?

because i'm noticing this with rgb output as well.

[Ed Oscuro]

I was just looking at a PS2 Slim (SCPH-90000, the Japanese one) via component and I didn't see any green noise in the black areas (though I could check again). I couldn't get the PVM to show the RGB signal though (no sync line from the component cable I was using). Colors looked fine.

[beatsgo]

i just noticed my ps2s display some noisy, faint green where there should be plain black.

is this what people are referring to when they say the ps2 has a noisy component signal...?

because i'm noticing this with rgb output as well.

A possibility is your Display is too bright. Over at AVForums they said that if the monitor is too bright, specks of grey/green is noticeable if you're close by the TV. Adjust the brightness so the specks gets close to be "dark" grey.
Another possibility is your cables.

[ryu]

i just noticed my ps2s display some noisy, faint green where there should be plain black.

is this what people are referring to when they say the ps2 has a noisy component signal...?

because i'm noticing this with rgb output as well.

A possibility is your Display is too bright. Over at AVForums they said that if the monitor is too bright, specks of grey/green is noticeable if you're close by the TV. Adjust the brightness so the specks gets close to be "dark" grey.
Another possibility is your cables.

well, i'm noticing these issues when setting the brightness to the normal setting. i wanted to stop playing at a reduced brightness setting, but then i noticed this weird noise. that this is a cable issue seems unlikely since i've got this happening with both my component and rgb cable.

guess i should check if other consoles have this issue as well, but i'm pretty sure they don't. i've noticed this is issue with my ps2s on multiple other displays, but never thought too much of it because back then i only ever noticed the pale green in the underscan area

[Fudoh]

If you want to check your PS2 for your "typical" noise, there are usually two titles I use: a) the grey main menu screen on OutRun2SP. The noise is stronger with the game set to 480p, that's why I use this and not the PS2's memcard menu. And b) the first screen you see when booting EPSGaluda. That brown box on dark ground where it asks you to confirm your memory card data. The brown box you see there is notorious for it's noise when the low pass filter of the processor or display you use isn't set right.

[ryu]

hmm. i don't own either of these titles, but that certainly isn't the issue i'm experiencing anyways.

[McCracAttack]

Here's a very basic question about A/V connector pinouts. Have a look at this model 1 genesis connector.



I get why RGB+Sync are there as well as Comp Video and Audio. But why does it need to run 5 volt and ground out through the AV connector? What are they used for and what are the consequences of not using them in say a custom AV cable? Is the ground just there as a return conductor for all the other AV signals in addition to the 5 volt?

Like I said, basic question here.

Edit: Okay, I get that the ground is there because yes, every signal running up the wire needs a return connection. Comp video needs it, audio needs it, 5 volt needs it, etc. Like how speakers need the positive and negative cables to work, the ground is the negative cable for all those other signals. That just leaves 5 volt. Why run 5 volts up an audio/video cable?

[Fudoh]

because european TVs require a 5V voltage to switch into RGB mode. If you don't apply 5V you usually only get composite video on the scart input. It's also used to power accessoires like external RF converters.

[McCracAttack]

because european TVs require a 5V voltage to switch into RGB mode. If you don't apply 5V you usually only get composite video on the scart input. It's also used to power accessoires like external RF converters.

Learning has occurred! Thank you very much!

[RaidenViper]

My Seimitsu LS-56 started to make squeaking noises. Really annoying. I've tried to clean everything inside (switches and such) but without any luck.

Should any grease/lubrication do the trick?

[emphatic]

My Seimitsu LS-56 started to make squeaking noises. Really annoying. I've tried to clean everything inside (switches and such) but without any luck.

Should any grease/lubrication do the trick?

Look in local hardware store/supermarket for white lithium grease. It's great for any squeaking thing, doors, joysticks etc.

[RaidenViper]

Thanks!

[Axelay]

I have a cheap scart block for connecting Rgb scarts to my CRT . Do I need a fancy one ?
Am I at risk of loosing picture quality with my scart block ?
Thank you

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Skytronic-Scart ... art+switch

I had that in mind ?

[brownvim]

I would recommend this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0015YYN1W

[LRa]

Hi,
I'm going to build an arcade cabinet and I'm wondering what is the height of the controls on a sega astro city cab, and in general?

[Ed Oscuro]

My Seimitsu LS-56 started to make squeaking noises. Really annoying. I've tried to clean everything inside (switches and such) but without any luck.

Should any grease/lubrication do the trick?

Look in local hardware store/supermarket for white lithium grease. It's great for any squeaking thing, doors, joysticks etc.

I have thought about this a good long while - it seems like it might be a myth, but many people are adamant that lithium grease is for use only on metal-metal applications, and that silicone grease is better for metal-plastic lubricant is better.

Most of the stuff I found in the stores is spray-on, which is inappropriate for this application.

I've gone ahead and bought two tubes of this stuff; not available locally. As a bonus it's food safe, so seems like it should work well. I hope to be able to give a report on it after using some on various things (squeaky joystick, DVD drive rails, printer ribbon rail).

[RaidenViper]

My Seimitsu LS-56 started to make squeaking noises. Really annoying. I've tried to clean everything inside (switches and such) but without any luck.

Should any grease/lubrication do the trick?

Look in local hardware store/supermarket for white lithium grease. It's great for any squeaking thing, doors, joysticks etc.

I have thought about this a good long while - it seems like it might be a myth, but many people are adamant that lithium grease is for use only on metal-metal applications, and that silicone grease is better for metal-plastic lubricant is better.

Most of the stuff I found in the stores is spray-on, which is inappropriate for this application.

I've gone ahead and bought two tubes of this stuff; not available locally. As a bonus it's food safe, so seems like it should work well. I hope to be able to give a report on it after using some on various things (squeaky joystick, DVD drive rails, printer ribbon rail).

I used white lithium like emphatic said. works great. no more squeaking

[Ed Oscuro]

One thing worth mentioning is that some grease types are incompatible with others - if you are relubricating a part, it's a good time to thoroughly wash it out to not only purge the old grease, but also to get rid of any grime or flecks. Then you can use the new grease with no worries.

[RaidenViper]

One thing worth mentioning is that some grease types are incompatible with others - if you are relubricating a part, it's a good time to thoroughly wash it out to not only purge the old grease, but also to get rid of any grime or flecks. Then you can use the new grease with no worries.

I don't think there was any old grease at the parts I applied the white lithium. But just to be safe, I may have to open up the stick again and clean it. and then add new grease.
Thanks for the heads up

[Ed Oscuro]

Depending on where you look, some people say Molybdenum grease (seems to be used for heavy duty applications - i.e. firearms, sparkplugs, disc brake wheel bearings), some say lithium (which may or may not be used in these assemblies originally), some say to look at aquarium lubricants, and some (like me) look at what's not reactive with other stuff - food safe even! - and go with the Super Lube or similar silicone-based lubricants. There are also some organic lubricants which shouldn't react badly to anything, but I don't know how long they last.

Probably there isn't any problem with incompatibility between new and old grease we are likely to use here, but I would be careful. Greases can and have sometimes reacted with each other - usually causing effects like causing one type to turn to soup, or to harden.

By the way, when I say "clean off the grease," I mean physically lifting out the parts and washing them down with soap & water. This is possibly overkill, but it beats having the new grease go bad due to a reaction with the old. Again, it doesn't seem like a bad time to take the opportunity to really get the grime out.

[KalessinDB]

So I acquired a Sony KV36FS120 from Craigslist for $20... and I'm very very happy with it. I don't know if I would even switch to a PVM given the option, considering I'd be dropping from 36" down to 20" or less.

BUT! It didn't come with a remote, so I haven't been able to service menu it for proper tweaking.

I just recently ordered a Logitech Harmony remote. Anyone know if I can access service menu with a non-first-party remote? I suppose in a few days when it comes in I can program it and find out for myself, but it's always nice to know someone has succeeded before you...

[Ed Oscuro]

I have a FS120 series Trinitron myself (the 27"). I think I like its 240p as much as my PVM, though both units could use a little bit of calibration help.

Definitely get the red push out when you get that remote, though.

[kamillebidan]

I have a problem with my current setup.
I use this monitor, with composite input. I get the artifacts you see in the pictures. Essentially, if I have a clear object it is followed by a dark line and if it is dark it is followed by bright line
Is this ringing or does this have another name?
I wonder why it happens a lot on green or yellowish background, but I cannot see it on blue or red background.

I tried changing the cable but that didn't solve the problem. I tried putting a 220uF capacitor in series but nothing changes. When cleaning the tube, I am worried I may have touched a potentiometer. Do you think that could be a cause?

http://www.smspower.org/forums/files/p1120031_188.jpg
http://www.smspower.org/forums/files/20 ... 17_603.jpg
http://www.smspower.org/forums/files/20 ... _3_184.jpg
http://www.smspower.org/forums/files/20 ... _2_368.jpg

(Mod edit: Huge embedded images changed to links -Ghegs)

[Ed Oscuro]

Surprised the 220uf caps didn't clear that up. Do you have adjustable pots for RGB lines / the final output? I don't recall seeing something like the dark line through you show in Elevator Action, but perhaps I didn't have the right games to see that. I did see similar ringing (or whatever we can call it) effects which cleared up on carefully adjusting the RGB pots on my supergun.

Hmm, but if you are outputting composite, then perhaps some of this is inevitable from interference. Elevator Action has many areas of solid color so interference (or other artifacts) could show up easily there.

[kamillebidan]

The monitor has input and output to chain multiple monitors.It has a switch, to set the load to 75ohm (last monitor) or open (passthrough).
I tried removing the load, and attach to the monitor output a potentiometer.
In the range 500 ~ 20 ohm the problem doesn't disappear, just (obviously) the color gets darker as I reduce the resistance.

[ryu]

that stuff happened to me when i was using an xrgb and had the horizontal position setting set too far left or right where it started to get out of range for the monitor to sync or something

[hector]

I want to send the RGBHV signal from my sync strike to both my PVM and RGB capture card. I can use a distribution amplifier to split the signal coming from the sync strike, but then even with a DSUB-BNC cable, how would I connect the RGBHV BNC cables into my PVM when it only has one BNC input for external sync? I heard that I could also use the sync strike's screw terminals to output csync along with RGB, but i dont know how to do that.

[Axelay]

I would recommend this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0015YYN1W

thank you very much !

do you prefer the automatic version or manual ?

[brownvim]

I have the manual version, no issues.

[Axelay]

I have the manual version, no issues.

Thank you

Does anybody buy from yamatoku classic on eBay? And have you every came across any horrible handling charges ? Cheers

I'm from the uk was wondering if Royal Mail would rape me with hidden charges