NESRGB board available now

[lettuce]

Hmmmm, im missing something blatantly obvious here (im blame my flu), but just done the mod on a 2nd NES and getting the same problem, in not picture at all.....should i get a picture on an LCD TV with this mod???. Must say that this 2nd install was sooo much quicker than the first, and the PPU came off much easier this time, i highly recommend anyone doing this to defo get an electric solder sucker

On this 2nd install i took picture of each step here....

http://min.us/mu9z8fJLL2rrU

could some kind soul take a look to see it ive missed something obvious please.

I know i havent wire up the pallet switch does this need to be wired up for the mod to work at all??. Also i might try remove the voltage regulator and use the internal one to see if that helps out all, what JP switch need to be shorted if using the internal unit?

[Zets13]

I don't have the board yet, but if you don't want to install the switch you can just bridge GND and 3 on the pallette section to output RGB - standard composite pallette (it was done earlier in the thread).

[lettuce]

I don't have the board yet, but if you don't want to install the switch you can just bridge GND and 3 on the pallette section to output RGB - standard composite pallette (it was done earlier in the thread).

Ah ok then.......so does that HAVE to be done for the NESRGB board to actually function?....as i havent shorted the pallette section at all?

[Zets13]

Yes, I would assume it does in order to output via RGB, but I guess I don't know for sure since I don't have it. It would take a minute to just do it.

[lettuce]

Yes, I would assume it does in order to output via RGB, but I guess I don't know for sure since I don't have it. It would take a minute to just do it.

Bingo!!!!....working now!!!. Thanks god it was something that simple. Thanks Dude. Now time to tidy the mod up.

This thing looks stunning through the XRBG Mini!!!.







As of yet it havent soldered up any audio, even so i can hear buzzing sound coming from the LCD TV speakers and seems to get more prominent depending on whats displayed on the screen, any ideas whats causing this?

[ApolloBoy]

It's the middle of December now... Am I the only one who visits Tim's site multiple times every day to see if they're back?

You are not alone in this. I keep a tab open to this thread and the sales site and just refresh it everyday. I just hope Tim's has enough stock in the second batch for all the interest it seems to be generating.

I tried emailing Tim a few days ago for an ETA on the second batch but nothing. I assume he's hard at work on said second batch...

[lettuce]

I need to clarify what the 3 audio solder pads are for on the NESRGB, Audio Output, Audio Input A (CPU Pin 1) and Audio Input B (CPU Pin 2.). I am want to run left and right audio (is the NESRGB even stereo?) to the 2 pins on my mini din socket (pins 1 and 2), which points on the NESRGB do i need to wire up and what are all 3 solder pads for exactly?

[ApolloBoy]

I need to clarify what the 3 audio solder pads are for on the NESRGB, Audio Output, Audio Input A (CPU Pin 1) and Audio Input B (CPU Pin 2.). I am want to run left and right audio (is the NESRGB even stereo?) to the 2 pins on my mini din socket (pins 1 and 2)

The NESRGB only provides mono audio. If you want pseudo-stereo you'll need to tap the audio from CPU pins 1 and 2 (or the resistors they're connected to) and then run that to your audio connections. For external audio you'll need to take it from the expansion port (after you've modded your system for it of course) and then run it to the audio connections on your jack.

which points on the NESRGB do i need to wire up and what are all 3 solder pads for exactly?

Pretty sure you answered your own questions at the very beginning of your post.

[Skips]

I need to clarify what the 3 audio solder pads are for on the NESRGB, Audio Output, Audio Input A (CPU Pin 1) and Audio Input B (CPU Pin 2.). I am want to run left and right audio (is the NESRGB even stereo?) to the 2 pins on my mini din socket (pins 1 and 2), which points on the NESRGB do i need to wire up and what are all 3 solder pads for exactly?

The NES does not do stereo and never will. Those "stereo" mods do nothing more than separate the 5 sound channels (pulse wave 1, pulse wave 2, triangle wave, noise, and samples) and mix mono back in to give it a little more thump. CPU pin 1 is Pulse wave 1 and 2 and CPU pin 2 is Triangle wave, noise, and samples. Pretty much Pulse wave 1 and 2 sounds come out one speaker and triangle wave, noise, and samples come out the other. It is not separating the audio into right and left channels. Here is a link that explains the sounds a bit better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la3coK5pq5w. The audio on the NES RGB kit is simply a rebuilt mono circuit (and one that sounds quite good I might add).

CPU Pin 1 goes to pad A on the kit
CPU Pin 2 goes to pad B on the kit
Pad O goes to your A/V port.

To connect expanded audio follow these steps. You will need to click on the images to get them full sized to see it properly, I threw it together in five minutes and don't feel like properly sizing this crap.

1. Connect the two points shown below in your Famicom to NES adapter.





2. Connect pin 9 to a resistor and run it to the point shown in the picture below. It is not pin 40 as stated before, they had it backwards as pin 40 is right above pin 9 (you can even see the numbering since I removed the socket in mine).

NOTE: I used a 22k Ohm resistor as anything higher made expanded audio on the Everdrive N8 too quiet.

You can also connect expanded audio with the two 1.2k resistors (and connecting it directly to audio out instead of directly to the kit) as shown earlier in the thread however this does not eliminate the buzzing like said previously, all this manages to do is make expanded audio too quiet when using the everdrive since its not being amplified. Once I turned up the stereo receiver to a level I liked the buzzing was still there with the dual 1.2k Ohm non amplified setup so I personally prefer the method shown here.



And a close up of where pin 9 needs to go.



I also don't mean to sound like a dick but Tim has how to hookup audio (without expanded audio) right on the NES RGB page. Everyone should really take a look at this and read through this entire thread before doing this mod if they have questions about it as all this stuff was answered before already.

http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/NESRGB-Pinout.pdf

[ZellSF]

So stupid question time since I'm having problems understanding the last few pages:

What's the status of expansion audio? Is it either expansion audio or using the improved sound circuit of the NESRGB board or can you have both?

Does using expansion audio lead to an increase in background noise?

Does Super Mario Bros 2 (the Japanese one) need expansion audio?

[ApolloBoy]

What's the status of expansion audio? Is it either expansion audio or using the improved sound circuit of the NESRGB board or can you have both?

Tim said that the second batch is slightly redesigned to accommodate external audio so that shouldn't be an issue anymore.

Does using expansion audio lead to an increase in background noise?

Not in my experience.

Does Super Mario Bros 2 (the Japanese one) need expansion audio?

The ending theme uses the FDS's wavetable channel so yes.

[ApolloBoy]

Just got an update from Tim through email, he told me that the second batch will be available after Xmas.

EDIT: I also got word that the second batch will not have the additional solder pad for external audio and won't have any changes.

[ZellSF]

Does Super Mario Bros 2 (the Japanese one) need expansion audio?

The ending theme uses the FDS's wavetable channel so yes.

Only the ending theme? So that's all that would be missing? I could definitely live with that.

[opt2not]

Just got an update from Tim through email, he told me that the second batch will be available after Xmas.

EDIT: I also got word that the second batch will not have the additional solder pad for external audio and won't have any changes.

Thanks for reporting this. It makes Xmas budgeting a bit easier now.

[mufunyo]

I also got word that the second batch will not have the additional solder pad for external audio and won't have any changes.

Waiting for the third batch it is then ;_;

[evil_ash_xero]

So you can't get expansion sound with this board?

[Skips]

So you can't get expansion sound with this board?

Seriously look up just a bit on this page, I posted how to do it with the front loader.

[evil_ash_xero]

So you can't get expansion sound with this board?

Seriously look up just a bit on this page, I posted how to do it with the front loader.

I had flash blindness. Sorry.

[lettuce]

Thanks for the detailed reply skips. So there is indeed only the 1 audio wire (audio output , pad 0) going to the mini din a\v socket then? , should that be wire to left or right audio in the scart socket? So if I connect cpu pin 1&2 on the NES to pads a&b on the NESRGB this will give me the fake stereo?

I don't actually haves a fsmicom cart adapter just a NES Everdrive, so I just need to connect a 22k resistor to pin 9 and the connect that to the circled location on the NESRGB to achieve the extended audio?

[Skips]

Thanks for the detailed reply skips. So there is indeed only the 1 audio wire (audio output , pad 0) going to the mini din a\v socket then? , should that be wire to left or right audio in the scart socket? So if I connect cpu pin 1&2 on the NES to pads a&b on the NESRGB this will give me the fake stereo?

I don't actually haves a fsmicom cart adapter just a NES Everdrive, so I just need to connect a 22k resistor to pin 9 and the connect that to the circled location on the NESRGB to achieve the extended audio?

"The audio on the NES RGB kit is simply a rebuilt mono circuit (and one that sounds quite good I might add)."

No it will give you much cleaner sounding mono, it is not an audio separation circuit.

Just run audio out to one of the audio pins in the scart cable then jump them together. You will get mono sound from both speakers instead of one then.

And no clue on the NES Everdrive, I have never used it. I have the Famicom everdrive.

[lettuce]

Thanks for the detailed reply skips. So there is indeed only the 1 audio wire (audio output , pad 0) going to the mini din a\v socket then? , should that be wire to left or right audio in the scart socket? So if I connect cpu pin 1&2 on the NES to pads a&b on the NESRGB this will give me the fake stereo?

I don't actually haves a fsmicom cart adapter just a NES Everdrive, so I just need to connect a 22k resistor to pin 9 and the connect that to the circled location on the NESRGB to achieve the extended audio?

"The audio on the NES RGB kit is simply a rebuilt mono circuit (and one that sounds quite good I might add)."

No it will give you much cleaner sounding mono, it is not an audio separation circuit.

Just run audio out to one of the audio pins in the scart cable then jump them together. You will get mono sound from both speakers instead of one then.

And no clue on the NES Everdrive, I have never used it. I have the Famicom everdrive.

Ok thanks, does the expansion socket have to be completely removed for the mod to work, as i noticed you your pic you have removed the expansion socket all together?

[Skips]

Thanks for the detailed reply skips. So there is indeed only the 1 audio wire (audio output , pad 0) going to the mini din a\v socket then? , should that be wire to left or right audio in the scart socket? So if I connect cpu pin 1&2 on the NES to pads a&b on the NESRGB this will give me the fake stereo?

I don't actually haves a fsmicom cart adapter just a NES Everdrive, so I just need to connect a 22k resistor to pin 9 and the connect that to the circled location on the NESRGB to achieve the extended audio?

"The audio on the NES RGB kit is simply a rebuilt mono circuit (and one that sounds quite good I might add)."

No it will give you much cleaner sounding mono, it is not an audio separation circuit.

Just run audio out to one of the audio pins in the scart cable then jump them together. You will get mono sound from both speakers instead of one then.

And no clue on the NES Everdrive, I have never used it. I have the Famicom everdrive.

Ok thanks, does the expansion socket have to be completely removed for the mod to work, as i noticed you your pic you have removed the expansion socket all together?

No, that was a preference choice as I don't use it for anything and would rather use connectors than hard solder the wires to the solder pads.

[lettuce]

Reading instructions on the jumper settings on the NESRGB, can it make a PAL system an NTSC system so 60hz?? As some of the descriptions seem to possibly suggest this:

" Jumper J7 selects PPU type. Open for NTSC, short for PAL"

" Jumper J4 selects encoded video format. Open for NTSC, short for PAL"

" Jumper J5 selects luma trap freq for encoded composite video. Open for NTSC, short of PAL"

?

[CkRtech]

Hey lettuce.

Probably best if someone verifies me on this, but I think the short answer to your question is "no."

Both the CPU and PPU in the NES systems are different between PAL and NTSC. I believe you literally have a different processor (CPU) in your NES for a PAL NES vs that of an NTSC NES. The issue of changing the video output for a certain territory doesn't begin and end with making output adjustments to the PPU. The sound timing in the CPU would be off, and I assume other weird things would happen (if they worked at all) should you attempt to use this board to output different settings than your NES's native CPU/region.

So basically the jumper settings are provided simply so you can set this mod to the appropriate, matching output type that will be compatible with your system's region.

I assume that you would basically need a CPU from each region's NES in order to create a switchable NES...

Of course, I post this whole message expecting someone else to weigh in on it.

[leonk]

In addition to that games are compiled to particular frequency (PAL vs NTSC). That's why PAL games seem to play and sound fast on NTSC systems (50hz games running at 60hz)

NTSC games by this logic should play a tad slow on PAL systems. I don't have a PAL system to confirm this.

[mufunyo]

Reading instructions on the jumper settings on the NESRGB, can it make a PAL system an NTSC system so 60hz?? As some of the descriptions seem to possibly suggest this:

" Jumper J7 selects PPU type. Open for NTSC, short for PAL"

" Jumper J4 selects encoded video format. Open for NTSC, short for PAL"

" Jumper J5 selects luma trap freq for encoded composite video. Open for NTSC, short of PAL"

?

You can make a PAL console output NTSC50 and make an NTSC console output PAL60. Ostensibly, if you mod in a switchable crystal, you could also switch the frame rate, but the display timings would be non-standard.

[EmperorZelos]

Said before so I'll ask again, when's the next batch going out?

[evil_ash_xero]

Sometime after Christmas(hopefully). Whether that means late Dec. or early Jan....who knows?

[Konsolkongen]

In addition to that games are compiled to particular frequency (PAL vs NTSC). That's why PAL games seem to play and sound fast on NTSC systems (50hz games running at 60hz)

NTSC games by this logic should play a tad slow on PAL systems. I don't have a PAL system to confirm this.

Almost 17% slower on PAL systems. But the worst part is that most games released in Europe weren't optimized for PAL-speeds so you would get 17% slower games even with matching soft and hardware. I was playing games like this as a child and now that I've felt the difference I'm never doing that again

[Jockel]

In addition to that games are compiled to particular frequency (PAL vs NTSC). That's why PAL games seem to play and sound fast on NTSC systems (50hz games running at 60hz)

NTSC games by this logic should play a tad slow on PAL systems. I don't have a PAL system to confirm this.

I can confirm this. Tried it with a few US games.