NESRGB board available now

[loopyeddie]

Are you not using the additional regulator?

[sammargh]

Nope, I applied some better thermal grease to the existing regulator and it appears to be stable and fine off that

[bobrocks95]

Very interesting case with the original Famicom. On the one hand, there are lots of additional wires to solder, but on the other, you don't have to desolder the PPU, which seems to have caused trouble for some people. I think once Tim's additional Famicom board is made, the Famicom mod will be about on par with the toaster, at least in terms of difficulty. Hopefully it's not too expensive!

[Kyle]

Since everyone loves solder-porn

And rainbow ribbon cables!

[loopyeddie]

Nope, I applied some better thermal grease to the existing regulator and it appears to be stable and fine off that

Why not just install the regulator?

Sorry, I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just curious. I have my AV Famicom ready, but my NESRGB kit isn't here yet. I want to have all my ducks in a row before it gets here.

Also, did you sample all the color palettes before deciding on one?

Thanks

[sammargh]

Nope, I applied some better thermal grease to the existing regulator and it appears to be stable and fine off that

Why not just install the regulator?

Sorry, I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just curious. I have my AV Famicom ready, but my NESRGB kit isn't here yet. I want to have all my ducks in a row before it gets here.

Also, did you sample all the color palettes before deciding on one?

Thanks

I wanted as clean of an install as possible and didn't see the need to use the extra regulator. If I experience problems throwing it in won't be too hard.

I didn't bother with the palettes, I already knew I just wanted standard so I only used it.

[leonk]

As far as I understand it, Tim added the extra regulator as to not burn out the existing system one (probably under rare circumstances it's possible to draw more current than the stock regulator can supply). Well, I was wondering, Tim's solution for adding the extra regulator for his custom board is one solution but why has no one explored another - replace the stock regulator with one that still outputs 5v DC but is rated for higher current? Wouldn't that solve the problem (in a cleaner install)??

[ApolloBoy]

You could replace the 7805 with a switching regulator (or buck converter as it's sometimes called) that can put out more current, but that introduces a fair amount of video interference that you can't get rid of without adding a big inductor in series with the voltage output.

[Artemio]

Hooray! Thanks viletim, it works great!

There's 1 capacitor on the motherboard you have to desolder & bend over a bit to make room labeled C5. I also apologize for my lack of superglue use. Soldering the system up in this fashion has made it so I did not have to make any modifications to the case except cut the trace for composite video. That can easily be jumped over should I wish to remove the mod and go fully-stock.

Awesome =) I see you modded it just like a NES instead of the recommended steps published today, I was planing on doing the same thing myself. I guess it is suggested to do it under the Famicom PCB for it to fit in the case, but since I seem to have the exact same model of Famicom you have, with a since board, I will probably do the same as you did once my board arrives.

[game-tech.us]

replace the stock regulator with one that still outputs 5v DC but is rated for higher current? Wouldn't that solve the problem (in a cleaner install)??

This is what I plan to do, but I also bought some good thermal paste to apply to it as well since the top loaders never had any to start with.
1.5 amp version 7805 for $0.60 at Mouser.
I am curious about the front loader's smallish heat sink and how it will cope. May run some tests...

[leonk]

Do you know what the top loader 7805 is rated at? 0.5A? 1.0A?

As for the heat sink, what do you mean by small? That entire plate is one massive sink!!

[markfrizb]

I think the orig regulator is 1 amp. I did the same thing to my NES, changed out my regulator with a 1.5 amp one and I also added an additional heat sink.

Call me stupid but how do you post pictures here????? I have a pic to show.......

The additional heat sink is mouser part number 504102b00000g.
It sandwiches right in between the NES heat sink and the mounting post. The fins go right around the big cap in the power supply section.

[leonk]

You need to upload your pic to one of the free photo hosting sites (like photo bucket) and then paste URL code to it here.

[KKEYSER4063]

Just got mine today, thanks Tim! Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend...

[ApolloBoy]

Do you know what the top loader 7805 is rated at? 0.5A? 1.0A?

As for the heat sink, what do you mean by small? That entire plate is one massive sink!!

The top loader's 7805 is rated at 1A just like the front loader. He was actually referring to the heat sink on the front loader, which is rather small. The top loader heat sink is rather big, yes.

[game-tech.us]

The additional heat sink is mouser part number 504102b00000g.
It sandwiches right in between the NES heat sink and the mounting post. The fins go right around the big cap in the power supply section.

Interesting, but from what i've heard it's best to keep heat away from electro caps, even though most times you find them right next to heat sinks...

[Ed Oscuro]

The heatsink will help with keeping heat away from those caps, if the system properly vented...

[Hamburglar]

Just got mine today!

Viletim, I gotta say, I am very impressed you even included an s-video female mounting port. For some reason, I didn't notice that it comes with that. Even though I am using RGB, it's such a nice and awesome touch!!



Look at all the extras!

The one thing I found fairly difficult was the pin-headers. Soldering them in is easy. Soldering them in so they are perfectly straight and not on a slight angle was very difficult. But I got it in the end.



I still need to wire everything up. I decided to go Genesis/Mega Drive model 1 8DIN for the a/v port simply because RGB cables for it are so much easier to find than any other port. I didn't much feel like wiring my own cables because they tend to look sloppy no matter how much shrink tube I use; plus I never know which gauge wire to use and I feel like I'm getting interference when I make my cables.

Before I finish this mod I really would love some input on getting the expanded audio and possibly the stereo mod to work with this guy. I have something called an ENIO EXP Board that plugs right into the bottom of the toaster NES (it's awesome! Gives you expanded audio and a port for Famicom accessories in your toaster) but I am assuming that thing will no longer produce the advanced audio of the FDS games and select Famicom games?

I'd really, really love to be able to still do the stereo mod (my AV Famicom with the F-Labo sounds phenomenal with the F-Labo's stereo mod) so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I can be the test dummy!

[robneal81]

I have something called an ENIO EXP Board that plugs right into the bottom of the toaster NES (it's awesome! Gives you expanded audio and a port for Famicom accessories in your toaster) but I am assuming that thing will no longer produce the advanced audio of the FDS games and select Famicom games?

I actually have the ENIO as well. I originally planned on just soldering the resistor to the expansion port, but when I found the ENIO, I was excited I finally had a way to use Famicom peripherals on my NES. Please keep us posted on how you proceed.

[Hamburglar]

I have something called an ENIO EXP Board that plugs right into the bottom of the toaster NES (it's awesome! Gives you expanded audio and a port for Famicom accessories in your toaster) but I am assuming that thing will no longer produce the advanced audio of the FDS games and select Famicom games?

I actually have the ENIO as well. I originally planned on just soldering the resistor to the expansion port, but when I found the ENIO, I was excited I finally had a way to use Famicom peripherals on my NES. Please keep us posted on how you proceed.

Will do! I will not solder anything in the audio portion of the NESRGB and report my findings. Then I will wire the audio up on the NESRGB and report my findings as well.

[undamned]

Oh man, these photos of parts and modded NES units are making me excited!

Maybe next year I'll have enough projects cleared off my plate to mod my systems
-ud

[lettuce]

Got mine today also, thanks Tim!. What tool are you guys using to unsolder the PPU?, wondering if i should purchase a cheap desoldering station finding one under £100 is becoming a issues though.

Think i might use a MegaDrive 2 din socket for mine, can thse be found on ebay at all?

[cr4zymanz0r]

I got mine in today too, and I think I know how to mix Famicom expansion audio into it too (on a front loader, but a top loader should work too with some small changes). I just gotta hook up everything up, test, and confirm.

[rolins]

Got mine today also, thanks Tim!. What tool are you guys using to unsolder the PPU?, wondering if i should purchase a cheap desoldering station finding one under £100 is becoming a issues though.

Hakko 808 desoldering gun. Its pricy but well worth the investment. I used mine to remove the solder from bottom of the PPU, then use desoldering braid & liquid flux to remove the solder from the top side.

[loopyeddie]

Got mine today also, thanks Tim!. What tool are you guys using to unsolder the PPU?, wondering if i should purchase a cheap desoldering station finding one under £100 is becoming a issues though.

Think i might use a MegaDrive 2 din socket for mine, can thse be found on ebay at all?

I just used a hand held solder sucker and braid. Just work on them until you can wiggle each leg and it'll come right out. It takes some time, but isn't too hard if you are patient and careful.

[Hamburglar]

Okay so I have some questions, and I apologize if I am over-reading things and not comprehending. I tend to over-think things so please don't think I am an idiot:



Number 1 on the bottom is confusing me to no end. Is it saying that only pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU are to be connected to the NESRGB? Is it saying pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU should be connected to the NESRGB, but not connected to the NES itself? I had just assumed we are to solder the PPU to the NESRGB (all pins) and all pegs should be going to the NES, as well. Why did #1 specify to leave out the other pins? Or am I reading this wrong?

Number 5 on the bottom is only confusing because all other NTSC settings say to not short, but 5 is saying to short for NTSC. Is this correct? I am using an NTSC system, so the only jumper I should be shorting is J5?

Lastly, what is this in Viletim's photo?



I circled it in red. I am just confused because mine didn't come with it, and the instructions never referenced it.

Thank you to anyone who could provide some insight. Again, sorry if these are really amateur or dumb questions.

[adimifus]

Number 1 on the bottom is confusing me to no end. Is it saying that only pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU are to be connected to the NESRGB? Is it saying pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU should be connected to the NESRGB, but not connected to the NES itself? I had just assumed we are to solder the PPU to the NESRGB (all pins) and all pegs should be going to the NES, as well. Why did #1 specify to leave out the other pins? Or am I reading this wrong?

Those instructions are if you keep the PPU attached to the NES. You would disconnect only those pins from the NES. The other pins remain attached.
If you completely desolder the PPU and attach it to the NESRGB board, all the pins need to be soldered to the NESRGB.

Number 5 on the bottom is only confusing because all other NTSC settings say to not short, but 5 is saying to short for NTSC. Is this correct? I am using an NTSC system, so the only jumper I should be shorting is J5?

The instructions are correct. Viletim himself actually answered this earlier in the thread.

Lastly, what is this in Viletim's photo?



I circled it in red. I am just confused because mine didn't come with it, and the instructions never referenced it.

That looks like a board that would attach to the 8-pin mini DIN connector (for RGB) to me. It looks different than the one included with the kit, but the arrangement of the through holes looks the same. Not sure what the black thing is.

[sammargh]

Got mine today also, thanks Tim!. What tool are you guys using to unsolder the PPU?, wondering if i should purchase a cheap desoldering station finding one under £100 is becoming a issues though.

Think i might use a MegaDrive 2 din socket for mine, can thse be found on ebay at all?

A solder sucker + braid was giving me a hell of a time getting it out so I ended up picking up one of these things at radio shack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062731

$15 and it probably won't last for very long but it was cheap enough and made removing the PPU so easy it was worth the investment. Took like 1 minute to do it with the tool.

Number 1 on the bottom is confusing me to no end. Is it saying that only pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU are to be connected to the NESRGB? Is it saying pins 2-9 and 14-17 of the PPU should be connected to the NESRGB, but not connected to the NES itself? I had just assumed we are to solder the PPU to the NESRGB (all pins) and all pegs should be going to the NES, as well. Why did #1 specify to leave out the other pins? Or am I reading this wrong?

Number 5 on the bottom is only confusing because all other NTSC settings say to not short, but 5 is saying to short for NTSC. Is this correct? I am using an NTSC system, so the only jumper I should be shorting is J5?

Lastly, what is this in Viletim's photo?

I circled it in red. I am just confused because mine didn't come with it, and the instructions never referenced it.

Thank you to anyone who could provide some insight. Again, sorry if these are really amateur or dumb questions.

Don't worry about #1, that's related to Famicom or mods where you're not using the passthrough on the NESRGB board. So long as you put headers into the NES mobo you can just plug the PPU into the board and ignore #1

You are correct, all jumpers should be open except for J5 for NTSC. That one should be closed.

The thing in the pic looks like a header connector as the DIN port initially was likely to be removable but was abandoned.

[Glossectomy]

Got both of my boards and cables in today. This thing works beautifully. Even better than what i imagined.

[cr4zymanz0r]

My RGB NESicom is done! http://imgur.com/a/GgxdF
When I added the Famicom cart slot I was getting some sprite corruption on FDS games. Some pulldown resistors to CPU pins 21 through 25 mostly fixed the issue but every once in a while I'd get a tiny graphical glitch for half a second.
HOWEVER, with the NESRGB board installed the sprite corruption issue on FDS is completely eradicated even without pulldown resistors. It's even gone when I have the NESRGB board set to off and I'm using the default PPU generated composite. I don't know what voodoo it's doing but I like it!.

I also did figure out how to mix Famicom expansion audio into the NESRGB sound circuit. It's very similar to the regular front loader Famicom sound mod but the last part is slightly different.

1.) Mod your Famicom converter the usual way of connecting pin 46 of the Famicom side to pin 18 of the NES side with a 100K ohm resistor and a 4.7uF capacitor: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/312 ... f33a_b.jpg

2.) On the regular front loader sound circuit you would connect expansion pin 40 to expansion pin 3 which would mix the Famicom expansion audio into the NES sound circuit. Do not do this because if pin 3 is connected then the Famicom expansion audio won't be present on the NESRGB sound output. Instead we will be connecting a 20K ohm resistor to pin 40 on the NES expansion port and running a wire from that to the NESRGB board. Here's a picture of expansion pin 40 http://i.imgur.com/nNixYV3.jpg.
You will run the wire around to the NESRGB board and connect it to one of the red points in this picture http://i.imgur.com/XCEwnaL.jpg?1. Don't worry if you bridge the 2 red connections. They are already connected on the PCB.