JAMMA Wiring

[shmuppyLove]

Question



Does it matter where I wire my input voltages to? Do I have to connect every one of them to the correct voltage? Same question for the ground ... is it enough to just connect one of them, or do they all need to be wired?

And you know I don't think I ever really understood the difference between "service" and "test" -- service is supposed to go into the service menu, test is something about adding a credit without affecting the bookkeeping information? Or is the function board-specific?

Edit: almost forgot a funny picture lol

[rolins]

Does it matter where I wire my input voltages to? Do I have to connect every one of them to the correct voltage?

Yes and Yes. But you may leave -5V unconnected unless you have a game that requires it.

Same question for the ground ... is it enough to just connect one of them, or do they all need to be wired?

It's best to connect all the grounds together, don't leave any of them unconnected.

And you know I don't think I ever really understood the difference between "service" and "test" -- service is supposed to go into the service menu, test is something about adding a credit without affecting the bookkeeping information? Or is the function board-specific?

It's the other way around. Service switch adds credits while the Test switch enables the test mode. Though not all games actually uses the test switch, some access test mode from pcb's dipswitch.

[emphatic]

Posting only to show appreciation of that funny picture.

Also agree with everything in rolins post. Not all PCB's honor the JAMMA standard, even though they claim to be JAMMA. To circumvent any unpleasant surprises (why oh why don't my inputs work all of a sudden!?), connect all grounds togetha!

[kowal]

is MAK or cabient?

theoretically last 4 pins is gnd output
especially pin "e" "27" (gnd for buttons & stick)

[shmuppyLove]

is MAK or cabient?

theoretically last 4 pins is gnd output
especially pin "e" "27" (gnd for buttons & stick)

Supergun, actually. I'm custom-building one.

Shooting for something similar to this:


(from gamesx.com)

Hard to tell because it's a small picture, but doesn't look like he's wired the power connector to all the pins -- maybe they're bridge at the edge connector side?

[kowal]

on MAK you can connect all GND together
but last pin is unnecessary if you using fat wire on 1,2,A,B,

[system11]

Remember that test should be tired to a toggle switch, not a pushbutton one. Some (mostly Namco) games exit test as soon as it's released. You need all the power wires, some boards actually have separate feeds, hence Moonwalker not working on partially wired Egret cabinets. As well as that, it helps distribute the power draw across the edge connector contacts - a greedy board with one pin can start to get warm there which damages the PCB.

No short cuts!

[rolins]

Shooting for something similar to this:


(from gamesx.com)

Hard to tell because it's a small picture, but doesn't look like he's wired the power connector to all the pins -- maybe they're bridge at the edge connector side?

It looks like all the power & GND is connected at the jamma end, but this person decided to bridge +5V and GND pins using 1 wire each. That's crazy! This will work but I wouldn't be surprised to see smoke or worse.

I bet this is someone quick & dirty solution for pcb testing, and not for gaming.

[kowal]

made bridge on 4 pin

and one thin wire on GND and 5v is fine but only awg16<
for other awg22 is OK, line take max 1.2A (+12v) and 0,5A (-5v)
pin from ATX PC power use 2x awg18 on GND is correct but +5v use one AWG18 is too thin - provides a stable 2,5A is not enough.

[system11]

Going to be hard to put heatshrink over that (also important).

[kowal]

normal and correct connection
the same method use Hirose/Sega/Sanwa
personaly I use long gold pin (as core) for bridge
something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-1-40-40Pi ... 565b350f86
final:

you need only heat shrink - this is very good
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-8mm-Dia-H ... 33766fbc63
8-10mm for 4 pin, 5-6mm for 2 pins, 3mm for 1 pin
and lighter

best option on mak: solder jamma to PCB
http://www.jammaboards.com/store/jamma- ... -jb-1.html
or made custom
all power pins are combined together.

[system11]

Why no -5v? Loads of older JAMMA games need it.

I cheated - bought a loom from Bob Roberts, they're fully wired and excellent condition

[kowal]

because this is adapter only for Bank Panic
this PCB do not use -5v