Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[cools]

If it's anything like the PVMs I have, the whole casing slides off including the back as one piece once the correct screws are undone.

[philexile]

Hi,

Yes, I know the default password is 9999 (or 1111 on later FW revisions) – but I cannot select the MAINTENANCE menu entry on my BVM and the text color is blue.

Can you please confirm where your MAINTENANCE entry is blue or white, if you can select and enter this menu, and lastly what version firmware you are using. I'm trying to isolate an issue.

Thank you

Hello,

Can anyone who has access to a SONY BVM-20F1U check something for me please? Press the MENU button and you should see the following list:

CONTROL PRESET ADJ...
COLOR TEMP ADJ...
SET UP...
MEMORY CARD...
COPY...
STATUS...
MAINTENANCE...
KEY PROTECT OFF

Please post if your MAINTENANCE entry is blue or not – and if you can select and enter this menu item.

Thank you!!!

The maintenance menu is password protected. The default is 9999.

[Necronopticous]

For me, MAINTENANCE is white and selectable like all of the other options. My password is 1111 and my software version is 1.40.

[lostinblue]

If it's anything like the PVMs I have, the whole casing slides off including the back as one piece once the correct screws are undone.

yep, that did it.

Sadly the anchors (plus the clips) that where supposed to hold it together on the lower bezel portion are all gone, and the CRT was going loose (and leaning it's weight onto other components so I chickened out.

I should be happy it still works, but I really want to repair it so it stays in place. Perhaps I'll ask for prices, I assume the plastic could be resoldered since it's so sturdy to start with, and held in place with hot glue or something.


EDIT: I actually solved it!

I was looking at it from the wrong angle, so pretty much all lower front case clips and screw anchors where broken, as it just wouldn't come together like an oversized sandwich with a bread deficit... so I was sobbing for a while when I notice there where also new bolt anchors in there, I mean, unused places for bolts, so I took the screws from the broken parts and bolted them to those unused ones, and it's holding together!

So happy! I'll still try and fix it further though; the broken anchors run deeper so I'm gonna get longer screws, and well, that's pretty much all I can do for it... I think.

On another note, the power button works but it's really wobbly, I don't know what's up with it; but if I manage to fix that... it's looking pristine, again. Anyone has any idea what could be going on there?

Some pics:





it's sitting on top of my PVM 1454QM

[fagin]

Please someone, who is into CRT technology, write about the Bang & Olufsen B&O MX4000 or the B&O MX7000 . I would love to get one of these for saturn games.

We've already been there and done that!

[philexile]

Thanks, much appreciated!

For me, MAINTENANCE is white and selectable like all of the other options. My password is 1111 and my software version is 1.40.

[hail good sir]

I was reading about the Pioneer PDP-V402 in the OP, as a pro it has little to no lag. I was just wondering how common lag is in general in those older "EDTV" plasmas? Good to go as long as it can do 480p natively, or just varies depending on model?

[K-2]

Hi gang,

I've been enjoying my pair of BVM 20F1s for almost a year now and have largely sorted out any issues I had, but recently I commissioned a supergun and when I hooked it up I can't get a steady image on the BVM. It works perfectly through component and this sych issue only occurs using scart.

I've tried capping all the other input/outputs with the 75ohm terminals, I've also tried setting the input config to either internal or external synch and no change. I've tried to adjust the synch by setting it to external synch then activating the shift key on the BKM and tapping the synch button, but the best result I get is a steady image with noticeable tears in it. The supergun itself has an internal synch cleaner that can be turned on and off and that does not seem to make a difference either.

The person that built the supergun is extremely reputable and we've been sending the supergun back and forth to each other trying to figure this out and I know I'm stumped. Like I said it works perfectly using component and this only happens with scart. I know my pcbs work on my cabs, and I know the supergun works with Sony PVM, and I know my breakout cable is good as well. So like I said I'm stumped. Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated!

[Fudoh]

a supergun is nothing but a jamma breakout adapter. All video is generated on your game board and here the specs vary a lot, so you can't generalize the problem. Which PCBs have you tried ? Are you using potentiometers on your RGB lines to bring down the voltage levels or do you pump the raw signal into the BVM ?

[K-2]

Thanks Fudoh,
I've tried: DDP DOJ, Mars Matrix, Tiger Heli. The SG has potentiometers for red green blue which I haven't really played with at all. The only other arcade hardware I have is a lot of MVS stuff.

[Fudoh]

try to increase the potentiometer settings to about 50%. You might have to add a fourth resistor to the sync line though.

[philexile]

Hello,

If anyone has a spare/broken Sony BVM-20F1U, please contact me. I need a BC Board from one of these units. Mine is failing and needs to be replaced. The boards that this model accepts are:

A-1135-936-A
A-1135-825-B

Thanks in advance!

[K-2]

try to increase the potentiometer settings to about 50%. You might have to add a fourth resistor to the sync line though.

I gave it a quick try last night, turning them all to 50% didn't appear to have any effect. I did this with the DDP board so conceivably that might be the ticket with Mars Matrix; I just haven't had time to try yet. When you say to add a fourth resistor, do you mean a fourth potentiometer or physically add a resistor to somewhere inside?

Please excuse my ignorance, obviously I'm not a golfer and I didn't build the SG myself.

[Fudoh]

do you mean a fourth potentiometer or physically add a resistor to somewhere inside?

doesn't matter if you use a potentiometer of a straight resistor (150-220 ohm) on the sync line. If the LM1881 cleaning process doesn't help, the voltage levels on either the RGB lines or the sync singnal would be the only thing left.

[K-2]

Would there be a problem with adding the pot to the SCART cable itself? Having the pot on the cable might come in handy with other devices later on, or alternatively would it be better to add it to the Supergun harness? Would there be any difference?

[Fudoh]

doesn't matter.

[fagin]

Fudoh,
This thread and your review is nearly 12 months old...... get off your arse and find something else we need to go out and buy!!!! I'M BORED!!!!

[Wonderbanana]

Just picked up a B&O MX4200 but yet to really see it in action as waiting on a step down for my recent JP Saturn purchase. Love the styling though.

Bit mental really - swapped a Sony PVM 2130 for a pcb, then bought the Saturn off the same chap the same day so went and brought the MX I really need to get my shit together

[jdubs]

Wow, so I've been fooling with shmupmame outputting 640x480p from my graphics card's 2nd output (DVI to VGA to VGA switch to BNC to PVM-20L5). It really looks terrific! I can't wait for the minislg to arrive and then (I hope) I'll have my setup pretty much complete for both my 360 and MAME!

-Jim

[Dennis]

Got a PVM-20M4E for EUR 100,- today It got some scratches on the top but other than that it's looking good.

At first I wasn't too impressed with the image quality, but after reading this thread I found out I needed a 75 Ohm Terminator, so now it looks a lot better
I still need to get rgb cables so I really shouldnt complain... (using composite atm)

[Dennis]

Can anybody tell me what scart > bnc cable to get for my PVM-20M4E?

http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony ... r-bnc.html
or
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/fema ... itors.html

I have no idea if i need a built in sync separator..

I want to hookup my snes/megadrive at first. Later my n64 and ps2 (for psx games).

[kamiboy]

You can use either. Sync seperation should not be needed though as PVM's can accept composite video as sync. Personally I use a cable I built myself like in the first link with my PVM L2 and L5. Works great for all my systems.

[BubbaMc]

Anyone got a BKM 15R and/or BKM 68X they want to get rid of?

[snkforever]

I'm having an issue with my D20F1U. It has a discolored spot in the top/right corner. It looks like when you put a speaker near the crt but I am no where near any magnetic source. I've moved the monitor to completely different rooms and degaussing multiple times. Do you have an idea whats happening and what I could do to fix it? Thank you for any help possible! Btw.. congrats Fudoh on the story on the perfect monitor for gaming! Saw it on Kotaku. Very cool!

[jdubs]

Can someone with a 20F1 / 20E1 see if it can handle a 320x240p source at 120hz? This is 31khz but I'm unsure if there are any Sony CRTs that can deal with 120hz.

Thanks!!

Jim

[Fudoh]

that would be 31khz, so definitely no. What source would that be ?

[jdubs]

that would be 31khz, so definitely no. What source would that be ?

Yep, 31khz. The source would (likely) be a MAME setup.

Some folks on the MAME forums are reporting that this is a way of halving the frame-buffer input lag inherent to MAME.

-Jim

[Fudoh]

sounds reasonable. You need a 120Hz TN panel for that.

[jdubs]

sounds reasonable. You need a 120Hz TN panel for that.

Some people have reported success with arcade CRTs, including the Makvision 2929D.

This is the guy / post extolling its lag-reduction virtues:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.p ... 327.0.html

-Jim

[Fudoh]

possible, if you have a true analogue chassis that might work. Possibly a nice PC CRT as well, but the Sony BVM (if they do 31khz like the D or A series) are geared towards the few standard broadcast refresh rates.