pvm 2530 sync problem?

[blackoak]

Just picked up a pvm 2530. Verified its beautiful picture through svideo at time of pickup, but now I'm trying to run my many rgb-capable consoles on it through the CMPTR 25pin dsub port. I picked up this adapter from retrogamingcables, hooked it up, and this was the image I got:



That is from the sega saturn, of course, but the PSX does the same (but with more black dropouts). Other consoles like the PC Engine wouldn't even display. Any ideas? I opened up the cable and checked out the scart and db25 connections. Nothing looked obviously wrong, but my knowledge is limited and I wasn't exactly sure what to look for. Is this a sync problem, or is the cable bad in some way?

[Fudoh]

You need a pure sync signal to use RGB on those sets. Does the cable you bought include a sync stripper IC ? If yes, then it might be faulty. If not, a Sync Strike might be the better choice.

[blackoak]

Ah, ok. I don't think it includes a sync stripper, if you're referring to the LM1881. Unfortunately, the sync strike doesn't have a scart out, correct? This cable is scart Female to DB25...

Btw, what does a "pure sync signal" refer to exactly? Wiki/link is fine.

[Fudoh]

The Sync Strike would replace your current cable. Scart In. DSub15 out and with a DSub to BNC adapter cable into your monitor.

pure sync = raw sync. A Sync signal without composite video embedded into the signal. Standard scart cables use composite video as sync to keep compatibility with non-RGB TV sets. Some systems can output raw sync on their own (MD, NTSC Saturn units, NTSC SNES units), others can't (PSX/PS2, PAL SNES).

[blackoak]

Ok, thanks. Only thing is that the PVM 2530 doesn't accept RGB through the BNC connectors (they're for composite video). The only RGB in is the DB25 computer, so if I use the sync strike, I guess I need to buy/build a db15 male to db25 female cable?

[Fudoh]

ah, right. Doesn't matter, in the end just a connector question. If you know how to use a soldering iron, you could just remove the scart connector from the cable you bought and add a HD15 connector instead.

[kebrank]

I have several PVM-2030 and PVM-1390 monitors and they don't need the sync stripped. I think there is something wrong with the cable.
\o/.k.

[blackoak]

Thanks kebrank. Its been a little confusing: I read some posts saying a lm1881/sync stripper was needed for the 2530, but then I also read posts like yours, which say it should work with the proper scart to db25 cable.

If only my XM29 didn't have this curvature problem...! I had to disconnect vsync if I remember, but everything has worked with it.

[kebrank]

Blackoak, glad to help. PVM-2530, PVM-2030 and PVM-1390 CMPTR 25pin connector has the same pinout. I was the first customer that bought the PVM to Scart adapter at retrogamingcables. I know he has sold a lot, you should probably ask him about this issue.
\o/.k.

[RGB32E]

Check the Sync on Green switch located right above the DB25 connector.

Manual: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/PVM2030.pdf
See page 7, item 1.

It's either that, or a ground connection issue.

As mentioned by others, most of the PVMs (including the 2530) accept composite video or composite sync on pin 3.

pure sync, raw sync... what's next? Über sync?! It's simply composite sync (CSYNC)!!!

http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:pvm-2030

[blackoak]

RGB32E, THANKS! That was the problem! I had a feeling there might be a switch like this on the monitor, but I couldn't find it. It was set to ON, and it needed to be OFF. The cable that was made by retrogamingcables works fine now. As Fudoh was saying, I knew it was a sync problem of some sort, but I just didn't think the PVM 2530 was that finnicky... glad to find out I was wrong! Man, the picture is beautiful on this.

[Fudoh]

great it worked out this way ! And sorry for steering you into the wrong direction. The last PVM I had on hand needed raw sync.

[Lawfer]

Is the 2530 a European model or not?

I know the 2030 and 2930 are not European models.

[RGB32E]

Is the 2530 a European model or not?

I know the 2030 and 2930 are not European models.

The 2030 and 2530 are from the same model line, just different size, and the 25 has a slightly more powerful speaker amp.

[Lawfer]

Is the 2530 a European model or not?

I know the 2030 and 2930 are not European models.

The 2530 and 2530 are from the same model line, just different size, and the 25 has a slightly more powerful speaker amp.

The 2530 and 2530? I think you made a mistake and repeated the exact same model number twice?

[RGB32E]

The 2530 and 2530? I think you made a mistake and repeated the exact same model number twice?

[cjug]

great it worked out this way ! And sorry for steering you into the wrong direction. The last PVM I had on hand needed raw sync.

Could that be my problem?

I get a similar display than blackoak and the message "No Sync" from the monitor when I connect an Atari Jaguar with SCART RGB using a Hama SCART switch and a Retrogaming Cables SCART to BNC (I believe without sync stripper IC). The monitor is an Olympus OEV202 (manufactured by Sony).

On the other hand, when I connect a PC->Super Emotia->Monitor, I don't get any display sync problems.

I tried changing configurations in the monitor from Sync-EXT to Sync-INT with no luck, though it seems that on Sync-INT it is not so bad as the other. Odd.

Any advise?

[cjug]

Well I found something, may be it is of use for somebody.

I read a comment on Retrogamingcables (http://www.retrogamingcables.com/female ... ipper.html) regarding a different version of the cable, one with a sync stripper. There the user says that when used with a Keene SCART switch, the sync cable didn't work. I thought that I might have the same problem, although I have the version of the cable without sync stripper and another switch, a HAMA. Well, I connected the composite video out of the switch to the sync input of the monitor and... voilá! A perfectly clear image.

Maybe it is the same situation than him and indeed the cable have issues with switches or I incorrectly received an OUTPUT version of the cable... well, I guess I'll only know by opening the cable, but for the time being I have a clear image!