XRGB-3 Hardware Questions / Errors displaying Video from PS2

[SkyeWelse]

Hello everyone, nice to meet all of you and I apologize if these XRGB-3 questions have been answered already, but having already looked for the issue I was having without much luck, I finally decided to register an account to get some help. I am a complete XRGB beginner.

So, I recently ordered a used XRGB-3 from Japan along with a Japanese RGB-21 pin multi-platform cable that has multiple ends (one for PS2, Nintendo systems and Sega systems, and I think Xbox) and I've been attempting to try and get a solid picture on my 40" Sharp Aquos. I have a DVI-D to HDMI adapter connected to the DVI-D output jack on the XRGB, and I have my PS2 (set to RGB Component in the menu options) connected to the JRBG21 cable, which is connected to the GAME connector on the XRGB.

I'm unsure of the firmware that the device used to have since all I originally received was a black screen when connecting it originally, so I updated the firmware with the only two sets of firmware I could find nowadays... Version 2.01 Japanese and Version 2.31 English I believe. I did it in order of updating the 2.01 first which completed fine, and the the 2.31 English second which also completed fine. I'm not sure if this is my problem in that maybe I needed to find a 2.31 Japanese firmware first.... but wow, are these difficult to find... Anyhow, it didn't fix my problem and I still received a black screen until I learned how to hold the Menu and Okay and Power buttons to manually reset the XRGB and then like magic, I was finally able to start seeing a picture on my TV as well as the XRGB-3 menu options.

So I have my PS2 set to component RGB mode in the system setup options and the XRGB-3 set to B1 mode, Low Pass Filter for FPGA and I've tested both DVI-D output and VGA output to my television, but the picture shakes and scrambles constantly as it is trying to read from the Playstation 2 connected via a Japanese 21 Pin RGB cable to the GAME input on the XRGB-3. It didn't seem to do that before when just composite was hooked up, so I'm wondering if my RGB cable is bad, or something, but I have no D-Terminal to Component to try on hand to see if that might solve the issue. Was thinking of order a D-Terminal to Component Female adapter from Solaris to see if that might open up more options for me, but I'm not certain this will solve the issue I'm having actually, and I'm wondering if it has to do with my Power Supply being bad as I have heard of similar issues happening with the capacitors of the PSU go bad. I didn't think this was the case since I've been very careful so far to only hook it up to a Japanese Step-Down convertor so that it takes my American 120 volts outlet into 100 volts for the XRGB-3 PSU.

Any ideas? Or anything that I could try? If the PSU is the culprit, is there an easy way to fix the capacitors (I've got a soldering iron, but virtually no real soldering experience with things like replacing capacitors) or order a replacement/alternative to the PSU?

Thank you very much for your time and again I apologize if my question is common. I'd be willing to read any previous threads that could help me isolate and fix the problem I'm having.

-Thomas

[Fudoh]

Where did you get that cable from ? In my experience those multi-platform cables are REALLY REALLY bad and only available in EU-Scart configuration, but even if this one had been modded to JP21, it would still be a crappy cable.

You should get seperate cables for your systems (just use the EU ones) and get a EU to JP21 Scart adapter.

[kel]

You could try changing your PS2's output to component YPbPr and then set the XRGB-3's GAME input to component YPbPr and see if that gets you by until you get some better RGB cables.

[Overkill]

Some years agora i bought 2 diferent multi scart cables for ps1/2, xbox1, gamecube and on the 2 brands it was a total crap! even using the switch and with all other consoles turned off.

[SkyeWelse]

Thanks for the replies.

@Fudoh, I actually got the Multi-Cable from a Japanese seller, so I doubt it is a European Scart type, although I'm not knowledgeable to tell the difference, but I'm pretty sure that it was Japanese RGB-21. I'll definitely take your advice and look into getting Scart cables and a EuroScart to Japanese 21 pin converter, one for each system once I can confirm that my XRGB-3 is working normally.

@Kel, Thank you very much for your advice and I did receive a better picture for the time being when both the PS2 and XRGB-3 mode was set to YPbPr Component settings.

@Overkill, Thanks, dually noted. I'll refrain from getting Multi-RGB 21 cables. Just thought it would be the best bargain for the amount of connectors available... But now I'm seeing that they are cheap quality usually.

But, quality issues aside, I'm really starting to think that this might have to do with a faulty power supply that may need to be replaced or repaired.

If you don't mind, can you take a look at the following video I recorded when testing Goonies for MSX via the S-Video IN output? This same flickering/scrambling and constant changing between 15 Khz and 31 Khz modes happens on all input connectors I've tried and either DVI-D out or VGA out. This picture on Goonies is great looking on my monitor, might be tough to tell from the video, but everything is very crisp and clean... only the scrambling, shaking that is a major problem.

XRGB-3 Video Problems / Scrambled Video

If it does turn out to look like a faulty PSU, what are some good options? Is there a tutorial for replacing the capacitors in the PSU or perhaps some alternative PSUs that can be easily found/purchased online that are compatible?

Thank you all very much for your time!

-Thomas

[Fudoh]

definitely not looking right. And the PSU might be a good guess. Over here desktop PSU's are available with multiple output voltages and 11V is not this hard to find.

EDIT: If you're in the US: ebay.com has a 11V5A PSU for $13 incl. shipping. You would just have to replace the connector with the one from the original PSU.

[SkyeWelse]

Hi Fudoh,

Thanks for the advice. I checked and it looked like you might be talking about this one Seems like a good price if that would do the trick perhaps. Question though, would this PSU be too powerful at 11VDC5A? I noticed that the Micomsoft PSU that came with the XRGB-3 was rated at 11VDC2A.

-Thomas

[Fudoh]

an electrical device will just draw the power it needs, so 2A is the minimum a PSU has to have. Just the current (voltage) must be a match.

[SkyeWelse]

Thanks Fudoh, something I guess I didn't quite understand and since I'm not exactly an electrical expert, I wanted to make sure.

I say that, however it's not that I don't want to learn how to repair my own equipment since part of being a collector of retro games is learning how to do basic maintenance to upkeep the systems. I figure if I can change a belt on a Famicom Disk system, (That's a bitch, btw...) and make a custom audio cable for my MSX, I'm sure I can at least learn how to do more. : )

Before I cut the end off on this cord and attach it to another PSU, I'd kind of like to see if I can just replace the capacitors (what's the worst that can happen!? They pop and explode! Please... ). Today I opened the PSU housing and I think I can clearly see that there is some leakage happening on the two capacitors that were identified on a youtube video I saw as the two capacitors that normally go bad.




I'm not certain but it looks like if I were to de-solder these capacitors out and replace them, I'd be good to go. I do see some weathering happening to the board itself, but perhaps that won't matter... not sure. I believe that where the Red Dots are would be the points I would need to de-solder and the replacement capacitors should be rated at: 16V1000uF low ESR.

Does this all sound about right? Has anyone ever had to replace the capacitors in the XRGB-3 PSU before?

Thanks again,

-Thomas

[Fudoh]

Should work out fine as well, yes. You just have to pay attention to the capacitor's polarity, otherwise the new ones might blow up as well once powered up!

[fagin]

I do see some weathering happening to the board itself

It looks as if it's either been in water or a highly humid atmosphere.

[kamiboy]

I'd suggest replacing all the cylinder shaped capacitors on that board and before soldering in new ones give the board a cleaning with some rubbing alcohol.

[ikaruga007]

I had the exact same symptoms on my XRGB-3 and those two capacitors were indeed the problem. Ended up getting a completely new PSU and haven't had a problem since, at least not with the XRGB

[SkyeWelse]

Thanks everyone for your comments. If I do repair this, I'll make sure to get the polarity right and I'll clean it up the board with Isopyropyl alchohol. Someone else I had talked to also recommended that I try and discharge the high voltage capacitor (I'm guessing that's the center one) before working on it by placing a screwdriver underneath it for a bit.

Ikuraga007, that's great! Did you have to buy a separate PSU and cut the end off of this PSU to use with it or did you happen to find one that was perfect for it for sale somewhere. Would you still happen to have a link for this by any change?

Thanks again,

-Thomas

[ikaruga007]

PM'd but I'll post the answer here as well for reference.

Bought one at a place here in Sweden called ELFA. I bought a separate plug that fit the XRGB and soldered it to the PSU wire. Just make sure you keep the centre polarity positive, measure it with a multimeter.

It should be possible to find a PSU that has a plug that fits. I know another guy in Sweden bought this:
http://www.kjell.com/sortiment/el/strom ... nformation

Good luck!