Thanks. Any idea why it would look like this? All three of my SCART systems look fine through an XRGB-2+. Two of them look fine direct to my PVM-2530. The SNES is the only system to look like this.fagin wrote:NTSC requires 220uf caps
PAL requires 75ohm resistors
You shouldn't need both.
I may come off as an idiot here...but wouldn't that tend to make it brighter? If my soldering skills weren't as abysmal as they are (Fudoh can attest to this!) I'd try it. My fear is once I have them out...I might not be able to get them back in. I can't even get my work to fit in a SCART shell without capacitors!fagin wrote:It's a tad weird. I have two NTSC SFC and they work fine with all my TV's including PVM and BVM's. My scart cabling is capped with 220uf's.
I would have a play myself and remove the caps from the RGB lines and see what that does.
Theorectically, but this is about seeing the effect it has on your set-up, which with what you have told us and with your set-up, appears to be abnormal to me.HDgaming42 wrote:I may come off as an idiot here...but wouldn't that tend to make it brighter? If my soldering skills weren't as abysmal as they are (Fudoh can attest to this!) I'd try it. My fear is once I have them out...I might not be able to get them back in. I can't even get my work to fit in a SCART shell without capacitors!fagin wrote:It's a tad weird. I have two NTSC SFC and they work fine with all my TV's including PVM and BVM's. My scart cabling is capped with 220uf's.
I would have a play myself and remove the caps from the RGB lines and see what that does.
OK. Simply removing the capacitors without adding resistors should show what kind of result do you think? Any ideas? I'll report back here when I do, but I'll be curious afterward awaiting your feedback...fagin wrote:Theorectically, but this is about seeing the effect it has on your set-up, which with what you have told us and with your set-up, appears to be abnormal to me.
You'll probably end up having to remove the caps and replacing them with 75ohm resistors.
Should there be a capacitor on the sync line? I can double check if there is one...Fudoh wrote:the weird thing about the photos above is that the 2nd one doesn't show a boosted white level (what you would expect with missing resistors), but it's showing an elevated black level, possibly caused by a remaining DC offset in the video signal. This should be filtered away by the capacitors.
I think my problem is I left the exposed wire(s) too long and tinned them. They became inflexible and I can't "curve" them into the shape of the SCART housing.Fudoh wrote:Anyway since the cable doesn't work properly, I would just remove the capacitors and take it from there. Soldering inside a scart connector is easy: first fill up the pins in the question with some tin. Then put the soldering iron to the pin from above and just insert the cable into the liquid tin. Pull away the iron and wait 2 seconds.
OK. Just hoping for some guidelines as it seems I'm able to eek out 1/2hr per week on this endeavor. I understand what I'm seeing is unusual--I guess we're outside the scope of normal, so there's no "predicting" what will happen.fagin wrote:I think you're missing the point. We may be past the point of expecting what it will look like with any given mod, so we need to start playing with it to see what it will do.
No cap is needed or should be on the sync line.
Audio hum on your other lead is probably a bad ground.
seems like a good ideaShould I just remove that one first and see what that does before removing all the others?
The SNES doesn't buzz, so I guess my Genesis cable is constructed worse than the hack jobs I've come up with!fagin wrote:Audio hum on your other lead is probably a bad ground.
I wish I'd taken better photos. All the caps are off now--not sure how they were originally. I will try to rewire them tonight (7 hrs from now or so) if I get the chance with the caps positioned as you're described. What you're saying makes sense--if they were wired incorrectly perhaps that's why removing them had no effect...fagin wrote:From your photo the R,G & B caps appear to be the wrong way round. The Sync cap looks the right way round.
All caps should be - to scart pin + to wire (back to console).
Is my photo deduction correct (it would certainly explain what Fudoh mentioned)?
