I built a joystick today what did you do? - Modding Thread

[Ex-Cyber]

Newer Wii systems actually dropped GC support altogether, which is kind of obnoxious considering that it doesn't let them get rid of anything except the connectors.

[emphatic]

Who can guess what it's for? Clues: Silk Worm, Ibara.

[shmuppyLove]

http://emphatic.se/special_adapter/overview.jpg

Who can guess what it's for? Clues: Silk Worm, Ibara.

Autofire?

[emphatic]

No, it's an adapter that will let me choose which player side to control, P1 and P2 on the PCB is directed into P1's controls in the control panel and while the micro switch on the adapter is pressed, P1 start button will start the P2 side.

[matrigs]

No, it's an adapter that will let me choose which player side to control, P1 and P2 on the PCB is directed into P1's controls in the control panel and while the micro switch on the adapter is pressed, P1 start button will start the P2 side.

i'm a little lost here. i assume you have a one-player control panel that you can't simply use the p2 start button.

but in this case, wouldn't it be simpler to a.) just make that switch directly p2-start, or b.) make a toggle switch which you can leave on permanently.

i mean i can see a few situations in which you will be a little hasty and press the start button without having this switch pressed resulting in credit feeding p1.

[emphatic]

i'm a little lost here. i assume you have a one-player control panel that you can't simply use the p2 start button.

but in this case, wouldn't it be simpler to a.) just make that switch directly p2-start, or b.) make a toggle switch which you can leave on permanently.

i mean i can see a few situations in which you will be a little hasty and press the start button without having this switch pressed resulting in credit feeding p1.

This is for games designed to be played with two players simultaniously. If I had just added a player 2 start button, I would have no way of controlling the game. If I only wanna play P2 always, I can just put some scotch tape on the added switch and not need to worry about starting P1.

I chose the momentary switch to get freedom to launch both players for example, I could of course have used a rocker switch.

[emphatic]

I got myself a pair of pretty sad looking TAITO arcade stools a couple of months ago but hadn't had time to get them looking good until now (currently on vacation).

I took a photo of one when I got them, thinking the fabric was orange, but now in the process I actually noticed that these where red when they left the factory. :/ Japanese ass-sweat™ can do that I guess.

Here's the picture:



I then opened it in Photoshop and played around with the colour until I made my mind up to have a purple fabric to match my EGRET II's:



At the start of this week, I began the work on removing as much rust as possible from the legs, but having removed the worst, I still have a bit to go, so to keep myself motivated to continue, I took a break from polishing and began re-upholstering the cushions today.


(Before the steel-wool, sweaty workout on the left side, pretty awesome stuff)

Left to do on the legs is using Autosol chrome buffer to get a high shine. But now let's go on with the cushion work for now.



Got myself some cheap, but nice velour fabric to use. It's quite thin, so I used two layers on top of the foam I used to stuff the cushion.



I took the above picture to show off the difference between the original red and the orange, but it's not that visible in the picture, sorry. You can see the particle board used in the seat though.



The one responsible for assembly of this stool used some extra pieces of scary foam as padding on the screws, but I just used a thicker, nicer foam instead.



Scary, huh? It's pretty thin as well, I wonder what it looked like when it was installed.



Gross.



The new foam. I've seen people use the old foam as a reference, but mine just disintegrated so I binned it ASAP.



I hurt my hand a while back in an accident at work, so doing this was a bit tricky. I know it's not perfect but I think it looks OK.



I then re-used the lining that was originally on here, but tried to align the holes a little better. Looks better in real life.



Et voilá! I took a couple of more shots as well:







I'm off to the post office now to pick up new plastic feet for my stools. These are known as ferrules should you need some and can be bought from ebay etc. You'll want 19 mm ones and plastic, not rubber or they will break on you. I might do the other one later today.

EDIT:

Picked up the ferrules and they are awesome.

[opt2not]

Nice work Emph! Bright shiny stools are bright and shiny.

[beatsgo]

Can't go wrong with a purpose cushion seat. Nice job on it plus that picture speaks a thousand words.

[channelmaniac]

Today?

Fixed 2 SPI boardsets... 1 was a Raiden Fighters and the other was a Viper Phase 1... for Rob (68k) and programmed him a couple of mod ROMs for a Cave board.

And, documented the region codes in another thread here as well as in my repair logs.

[emphatic]

Second stool is done!

[channelmaniac]

Second stool is done!

Looks damn nice!

[drboom]

That looks amazingly nice! Like "Better Homes and Gardens - Intl Shmup Version" nice.

[chempop]

Those stools turned out really nice! I am tempted to get one now that I finally own a cab, but I prefer sitting much higher up. I'm most comfortable with my head level with the top of the screen, are there taller taito stools?

[shmuppyLove]

Those stools turned out really nice! I am tempted to get one now that I finally own a cab, but I prefer sitting much higher up. I'm most comfortable with my head level with the top of the screen, are there taller taito stools?

Wouldn't your knees bang into the CP then?

[man9child]

Those stools came out really nice.

The leather taito stools come in 43 and 48 cm, I think. I think the taller ones were intended for viewlix style cabs.

[beatsgo]

Second stool is done!

spiffy, this is making want to build a PURPLE stool for my gaming setup.

[emphatic]

Thanks a lot guys!

[rugdoctor]

Revived APOLLO stick with a 3rd party dualshock2 pcb. Also swapped out the stick for LS-32 and replaced buttons with HAPP & OBSF. The pcb is non-common ground, but it was destined to the bin. Just need to stick a felt bottom surface and it will be my new all purpose stick.



Bought the custom box (with plexi and included art) with HAPP buttons, seimitsu start and select and LS-32 from local option site for less than the price of a McDonalds family meal deal and stuck another 3rd party dualshock2 pcb (again non-common ground).

Both sticks completed in a night. Not a bad way to spend the evening I reckond.

[1up]

My brother is building a MAME cabinet and asked me about arcade controls. He needed a stick for his build but didn't know what to do at all. So I built him a test stick out of a xerox box and some parts I had laying around. Ended up with a x360 pcb wired to a LS-32 and Hori buttons.



yea, I know back and start is placed way wrong, but I cut the holes on the lid upside down, so I messed up. Its just so he can figure out what wires goes where when he puts it in his cab.

[channelmaniac]

What did I do today?

Fixed a Black Heart board for drboom.

[shmuppyLove]

Had some spare time on Saturday, finally got around to putting an LS-32 into my TvC stick:



Cut the original joystick harness in two and popped a terminal block on it, thus making it piss easy to put whatever joystick I want in there now.

Looking around now for buttons, probably going to order 6 Seimitsu PS-14-Ks since I prefer em to the OBSF-30s, and both would be a big improvement over the stock Mad Catz buttons.

Just gotta decide if I want to pay the extra $$ for the translucent ones ... would look so smexy with the bubble top ...

[shmuppyLove]

FINALLY

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47808867@N ... 1241895932

Naomi Universal BrawlStick



What started life as a Mad Catz BrawlStick for Xbox 360 has been heavily modifed.

Joystick is a JLF with the Mad Catz shaft cover and dust washer, buttons are a mish-mash of (4) Seimitsu PS-14-G-N and the original Mad Catz buttons from a TvC stick (blue ones aren't connected. 6 buttons is enough!) PCB I believe I pulled out of a old PS1 digital controller I had lying around. Artwork was custom-made by me using original Naomi overlay as a template, printed on LamiLabel.

Was originally going to use a Dreamcast controller PCB (hence the Naomi theme), but they are huge and I couldn't make it fit inside, so instead I have a Total Control 2 adapter for the DC.

[emphatic]

The artwork came out nice!

[moh]

The artwork came out nice!

yeah, that artwork is fantastic.

[gabe]

Yep. Love that stick. Tastefully done. My favorite sticks are the ones that don't look to be obviously custom. Most modders forget that just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean that you SHOULD. This is especially problematic, because most people have really bad taste.

[shmuppyLove]

Thanks for the compliments, the artwork took a lot of work to make it look good. I had to copy and splice and blend 8 - 10 different elements from the original to get it to look proper on the narrower panel.

There's only 1 problem with the stick -- I didn't screw the panel in before putting the artwork on, and I don't want to poke holes in it now, so the top panel isn't actually attached.

Luckily it's metal and heavy enough that it doesn't move around at all, but I still have to be a bit gentle with it.

[rugdoctor]

Chopped down a NAOMI standup cabinet...not going to do that again in a hurry.

[matrigs]

made a stick today myself. got really bored with my mayflash stick and wanted something new. ls-33 + obsf-30



an absolute bitch to make also reminded me again of having just no engineering skills at all.



i wanted to have the screws of the seimitsu covered at any cost. problem is that the ls-33 is the shortest japanese stick and any panel above 3mm makes it unusable. so in the end i decided to use 2x 1,5mm acrylic. the stick is screwed to the lower one, then there is another one on top which makes the stick smooth.



this wasn't the best idea - as the two acrylic plates are screwed together only at the edges, hitting the stick a bit rougher to the sides makes it bend the frontplate quite a bit. i would really want to fix this, but i'm a bit lost as to what to do. i could add a few pillars of acrylic around the stick which would be probably the easiest solution, but also the least sure to change its' behaviour. another idea is to replace the lower acrylic with a solid metal plate. it would make the stick definitely more rugged and heavy. of course not see-through anymore but i couldn't really care less about that one.

[shmuppyLove]

Tonight I gotta figure out a CPS2 kick harness hack ... I only need 3 lines for P1 kick buttons, going to see if I can find an old analog CDROM audio cable to use ... i think the pin spacing is the same.

I was really hoping a floppy connector would work, and it's very very similar, but slightly larger.

$17 - 20 for a pre-wired kick harness seems like a lot to me, I'll just make my own.

Of course I still need to sort out a new joystick that I can convert between a 4-button Neo Geo layout and a 6-button layout for fightans ... shouldn't be too hard as long as I use quick connectors and can easily access the inside of the stick to shuffle things around.