Console --> Arcade monitor adapter (AVAILABLE, see 1st post)

antron · Post by **antron** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:26 pm

he posted an update in another thread (which is relevant to this thread in itself):
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39052

ckong · Post by **ckong** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:56 pm

thanks

Jockel · Post by **Jockel** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:51 am

Is there any easy way to use this adapter to hook up a PC running MAME to a JAMMA connection?
I'm thinking about using one of those cables:
http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthre ... -via-SCART

Also on a sidenote, is it possible to have the 240p only on the secondary monitor, while running MAME?
Because I hate having to set up a whole OS just for this one thing.

viletim · Post by **viletim** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:36 pm

Jockel wrote:Is there any easy way to use this adapter to hook up a PC running MAME to a JAMMA connection?
I'm thinking about using one of those cables:
http://community.arcadeinfo.de/showthre ... -via-SCART

Not currently. The problem with connecting a passive VGA to SCART cables to my SCART to JAMMA adapter is there is nothing to prevent high scan rate video (>16kHz) from getting to the arcade monitor. This is a problem when the low res video is generated in software, instead of hardware (Ultracade UVC, Ultimarc Arcade VGA, etc.). The PC will boot up into a standard VGA text mode with a horizontal scan rate of 31kHz or more and pop the monitor's horizontal defection stage before the low frequency video drivers have loaded.

Not that all arcade monitors will be damaged by an out of range sync signal frequency. Most will probably handle it gracefully, especially newer models which are based on television chipsets. But there certainly are some that will be damaged by this treatment.

Previously, I decided to design a suitable cable that was useful to connect a game/MAME PC to my adapter and also to an ordinary television (with an RGB SCART input of course). A television isn't going to mind out of range sync frequency, but it would benefit from the presence of the A/V switching signals that the SCART standard offers. So my cable design has a little circuit in the SCART connector end which blocks the sync if the frequency is too high and also generates the correct switching signal voltages for the TV sets. However, I have decided not to follow it through to manufacture for the time being. I don't think many people are willing to pay AU$40-50 for 'just a cable' and I am worried about technical support. When I last had a play around with generating TV/arcade monitor compatible signals in software (over five years ago) it was quite a complicated process that had limited hardware compatibility (some video cards could not do it). I have no interest in helping people with Windows/software setup/PC hardware related problems.

While on the subject of availability of hardware, I will have available in the near future a Component Video to RGB SCART Converter.

One question that come up often (particularly from Americans) is where can one buy good quality SCART cables for a given console? I don't have a good answer to this most of the time. The only console which has an official SCART cable currently available is the Nintendo Wii, and it only works on the European/PAL model. Microsoft and Sony have deleted the SCART cables for their current platforms. I suppose they have a vested interest in dropping support for analog video - it does not lead to the sale of a new flat TV. There are many third party SCART leads available but it's often difficult to judge the quality before buying.

As a partial remedy, I have designed a Component video to RGB SCART converter. Component video cables are widely available for recent consoles and third party offerings are generally of better quality than the RGB SCART equivalent.

As pictured it is configured to convert component video at standard television line frequency (15-16kHz) and will simply block video outside this range. It is possible to disable this frequency block internally, and I may offer a version with a VGA connector instead which would be useful for those with a tri-sync or high res arcade monitor. In this sate it will support TV resolution (15.7kHz), and so called progressive resolution (31kHz / 480p). Higher resolutions used by HDTV (720p, 1080i, 1080p) will not be supported as they require a different colour matrix.

I expect to have it ready by late February with an approximate price of AU$85.

In the Controls Dept. I had ambitious plans when I first started working on the controller interface but now I think they were a bit unrealistic. In future I will focus on single console interface boards which support two players and full programmability. This keeps the cost per board low, makes development much quicker and easier.

Initially, I will have Playstation and Super Nintendo versions available. The controls are completely programmable. For example the Playstation version will emulate the analog thumbsticks, one could program player1's physical joystick (on the cabinet) to act as player1's left thumb stick in game and player2's physical joystick to act as player1's right thumbstick in game. It is also possible to program every button on the cabinet to act as player1's R1 in game if so desired. Anything is possible, and no distinction is made between player 1 and player 2 is made as far as the physical controls go. If the arcade cabinet lacks enough buttons to play a particular game it may be possible to get away with mapping some of player 2's controls over for the less critical functions. The only limitation is that only one action can be performed per button press, combinations are not supported, though this can be worked around in hardware by connecting multiple inputs together.

Up to 16 different control programs can be saved, and programming interface is quite simple to use with an LED indicator display and single push button.

Kick harness support! Five different types - CPS-1, CPS-2, Mortal Kombat 1, Mortal Kombat 2/Killer Instinct/other Midway, and Sega STV (Titan). Also terminal blocks for those who have extra buttons/controls that are without a kick harness, bereft... The kick harness connectors are on a separate board which will be sold separately. Not everybody will need it, and some may want use one alone as a kick harness to wire terminal pin adapter.

The hardware is in it's final stage and software is about 70% complete. I expect to have them ready by late March with a tentative price of AU$40-45 for the main interface board and AU$10-12 for the kick harness adapter.

Jockel wrote:Also on a sidenote, is it possible to have the 240p only on the secondary monitor, while running MAME?
Because I hate having to set up a whole OS just for this one thing.

It might be possible in theory, but I don't think any drivers will work like this.

neorichieb1971 · Post by **neorichieb1971** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:40 pm

I like your work viletim.

I don't like naked PCB's in my bay area of my cab though.

Does this PCB sandwich with the other jamma to scart adapter you did before and can you let us know how it interfaces? (a PIC would illustrate this well)

cools · Post by **cools** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:18 pm

neorichieb1971 wrote:I don't like naked PCB's in my bay area of my cab though.

antron · Post by **antron** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:06 pm

Looks great Tim. Any plans for an easy connect to your first generation SCART to JAMMA board. I guess I could always take a ribbon cable and split it off to the terminal blocks.

Thanks

viletim · Post by **viletim** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:59 am

neorichieb1971 wrote:Does this PCB sandwich with the other jamma to scart adapter you did before and can you let us know how it interfaces? (a PIC would illustrate this well) :)

Here are some pictures of a "typical" setup. In this case there are two expansion boards and one main board, all screwed together end to end. There is one for the PS2 and the other which provides a JAMMA pass through connection (though there is nothing hooked up to this one). Switching between expansion boards is a matter of disconnecting the ribbon cable from one an connecting it to another. It's possible to link up many boards in a long line - hand have extra long ribbon cables to suit.

antron wrote:Looks great Tim. Any plans for an easy connect to your first generation SCART to JAMMA board. I guess I could always take a ribbon cable and split it off to the terminal blocks.

That would work. You could also connect a the controller expansion board together - it's all very modular.

emphatic · Post by **emphatic** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:06 pm

That looks very neat and great! With a PSX board there's not really a need for much else with all the great adapters on the market.

opt2not · Post by **opt2not** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:23 pm

Wow, that looks pretty awesome!

s8n · Post by **s8n** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:23 pm

hi everyone , i have 2 Astros both with Nanao Chassis but different Models on one the Black Level POT with the Adapter works great but on the other Chassis the POT doesnt do anything.

The Model of the one that isnt working is a Nanao-MS9-29 has anyone the same Chassis and the Black Level POT works ? , im wondering what could be the cause and possibly if it can be fixed i will send it to Joey " JOMAC " for him to work on it. He has done work on this particular Chassis before maybe that is the cause or something else ? ..............ive heard of a little bit of talk in this Thread about a ' Clamp ' that can restrict the Black Level POT from doing anything.

any help and info would be appreciated

s8n

antron · Post by **antron** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:25 pm

you shouldn't need the black level adjusted for the chassis where it doesn't seem to do anything. the contrast should do the job. is that not the case?

s8n · Post by **s8n** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:48 pm

hi antron , i must be a bit more clear im using the Black Level POT on viletims Adapter not on the Chassis ...............

the contrast should do the job. is that not the case?

The Contrast on viletims Adapter works well for this certain Cab , i would like to adjust the Blacks a little so they arent Black Black.

On my other Astro i have adjusted the Black Level POT just a touch and it looks superb , i would like to do the same with the one im working on.

I think something technical is restricting me from raising and lowering the Black Level POT , i believe its not the Adapter but something on the Chassis.

Currently i have the Screen Volts on the Chassis upped a bit which looks ok but the Black Level POT on viletims Adapter looks better comparing it to the other Astro

chat soon

emphatic · Post by **emphatic** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:00 pm

Are both of your cabs New Astro City's? Or is one an Astro City and the other one a New Astro City? Different monitors...

If you have NAC's, you can use this guide: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=710 as it's the same monitor, NANAO MS9.

s8n · Post by **s8n** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:27 pm

hola emphatic................

Are both of your cabs New Astro City's? Or is one an Astro City and the other one a New Astro City? Different monitors...

One is a New Astro and the other is a Astro City 1 , the one im working on ' New Astro ' it has a Toshiba Monitor and a Nanao-MS9-29 Chassis

emphatic · Post by **emphatic** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:31 pm

s8n wrote:hola emphatic................

Are both of your cabs New Astro City's? Or is one an Astro City and the other one a New Astro City? Different monitors...

One is a New Astro and the other is a Astro City 1 , the one im working on ' New Astro ' it has a Toshiba Monitor and a Nanao-MS9-29 Chassis

Then please use my guide. It should work wonders.

antron · Post by **antron** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:31 pm

s8n wrote:i believe its not the Adapter but something on the Chassis.

that's correct, but it's not malfunctioning. It's just auto adjusting its black level no matter what you feed it, that's why the POT appears to do nothing. I have seen this behavior as well on different monitors.

s8n · Post by **s8n** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:07 pm

hi again antron + emphatic , thanks very much for your info tips and help ........... i have been reading emphatic's guide on and off over the last 30 mins or so and am going to give it a shot as suggested.

Ill be working on this for a while as ive never done this before so ill be taking ages bbl

s8n

s8n · Post by **s8n** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:30 pm

howdy emphatic and antron , i have used the guide provided from the link and the Black Level POT still wont budge. If im correct though with RGB POTs adjusted with the used guide i am getting proper Black's as its supposed to be , regardless if i can or cant adjust the Black Level POT on the Adapter.

btw thanks for the link to your site and guide emphatic it is quite helpful

s8n

antron · Post by **antron** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:49 pm

On some monitors it's not supposed to do anything. What you are seeing is normal. That POT is only for monitors with no clamp circuit.

mesh control · Post by **mesh control** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:55 pm

What items are necessary to hook up a Xbox 360 to a NAC?

Sorry if this has already been answered...didn't want to dig through this massive thread.

PC Engine Fan X! · Post by **PC Engine Fan X!** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:09 pm

mesh control wrote:What items are necessary to hook up a Xbox 360 to a NAC?

Sorry if this has already been answered...didn't want to dig through this massive thread.

You'd go with either one of viletim's Scart to Jamma adapters (1st gen or 2nd gen revision will work just fine) + an official Microsoft Advanced 360 Scart Cable & you're go to go in both the A/V department. Audio will be presented in mono format only & not in stereo. You'll need access to an PS360 or PS360+ or Dual Strike USB adapter to hook up your console for the gaming controller interface, wire up from the PS360/PS360+/Dual Strike to the S2J adapter and you're good to go controls-wise.

Second option is go with an Ultracade UVC setup hooked up to a Jamma fingerboard + Microsoft 360 VGA cable & you're good to go in the video department. Does require some extra work trying to get audio from the console hooked up to your arcade speakers by using a line level attenuator setup. A hacked 360 controller PCB (or use an PS360/PS360+/Dual Strike for an easier plug 'n' play setup) will be necessary and wire up the corresponding wires to the arcade control inputs of the Jamma fingerboard that the UVC is interfaced with. The UVC will output in 240p format.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

mesh control · Post by **mesh control** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:28 pm

damn.

I was hoping I could somehow avoid pad hacking. I've mutilated countless pads and Cthulhu pcbs in the past couple years.

antron · Post by **antron** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:27 am

you could be the first to try this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-360-USB-Jamma ... 2732wt_962

she said EMS shipping was $15, but I never ordered.

edit: here's a store with ithttp://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/6073 ... ad-to.html

or wait for tim to finish the PS2 ones (this month?) and get an adapter.

mesh control · Post by **mesh control** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:14 am

antron wrote: or wait for tim to finish the PS2 ones (this month?) and get an adapter.

I think I'll do this.

I already have a few e-tokki converters laying around.

Post by **Dave_K.** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:33 am

For XB360 to arcade monitor, UVC is the only choice. I'm not knocking viletim's adapter, as its great for those consoles that output 240p via scart, but 360 outputs interlaced video via scart. Also UVC will let you output highres on NAC monitor at 24khz. You'll still need to hack controls though, but you'll have the best video.

antron wrote:you could be the first to try this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-360-USB-Jamma ... 2732wt_962

I know I've seen these before, but this particular auction either has the wrong pictures or description because it doesn't show any jamma converter, just the joystick hack board.

mesh control · Post by **mesh control** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:12 am

I can't see myself hacking controls and getting all the pieces together.

I'm probably going to make a WTB thread in trading station instead to get some sort of box put together. :/

Thanks for everyone's input.

antron · Post by **antron** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:56 pm

Dave, they are just misusing the word JAMMA. The wires would go into Tim's terminal blocks.

300wins · Post by **300wins** » Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:20 pm

So I am having a problem with viletim's SCART to JAMMA adapter ver. 2.0.
I cannot get SNES to work on my Egret 2. I have tried different jumper settings, 2 different SNES, 2 different SCART cable and all I get is sound. I have cranked the contrast up all the way and well as mess with the black level screw. I can get Genesis to work perfectly fine on my Egret 2. The odd thing is, I can get the whole set with the SNES to work in my Blast City perfectly fine. Any ideas on what I can try?

viletim · Post by **viletim** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:17 am

300wins wrote:So I am having a problem with viletim's SCART to JAMMA adapter ver. 2.0.
I cannot get SNES to work on my Egret 2. I have tried different jumper settings, 2 different SNES, 2 different SCART cable and all I get is sound. I have cranked the contrast up all the way and well as mess with the black level screw. I can get Genesis to work perfectly fine on my Egret 2. The odd thing is, I can get the whole set with the SNES to work in my Blast City perfectly fine. Any ideas on what I can try?

Strange!

If the power supply is original, it may only operate correctly at 100V AC. Running the cabinet from the US mains or a 120V stepdown transformer designed for US equipment may cause the +12V output to become unstable and could possibly cause symptoms like this...

Have you connected the white power transistor between +5v terminal and GND ?
Does the red power light come on?

shmups.system11.org

Console --> Arcade monitor adapter (AVAILABLE, see 1st post)

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