Looking for 100% RGB Sync Leads

[Rock Man]

Stupid model 2 and it's noise dysfunction.

[Hamburglar]

The original japanese SFC RGB cable has better picture than all 3rd party cables and still uses composite video.

I can vouch for this, but does anyone know why this is the case? Every single SNES SCART cable I used, other than the original ones made by Nintendo, give off faint diagonal interference all over the screen. I tried like 3 different makers of the SNES RGB SCART cables and they all did this. But the ones made by Nintendo did not. Is it just higher quality wires?

For reference, I experience this same ugly horizontal interference any time I introduce a SCART switch box in my setup.

[BuckoA51]

Which SCART switch out of interest? I'm trying to document which ones are good and which ones add noise.

I'm also somewhat certain I got rid of diagonal interference on my SNES by changing the PSU. Certainly some kind of picture noise was eliminated this way.

[Retro Access]

The original japanese SFC RGB cable has better picture than all 3rd party cables and still uses composite video.

I can vouch for this, but does anyone know why this is the case? Every single SNES SCART cable I used, other than the original ones made by Nintendo, give off faint diagonal interference all over the screen. I tried like 3 different makers of the SNES RGB SCART cables and they all did this. But the ones made by Nintendo did not. Is it just higher quality wires?

For reference, I experience this same ugly horizontal interference any time I introduce a SCART switch box in my setup.

It is higher quality wires, and the fact that the huge majority of third party cables for Nintendo consoles are not shielded. Maybe because the AV socket on Nintendo consoles lacks a shielded hood itself. I suppose they think it wouldn't make a difference? You can of course get around this by hooking up the two ground points to outer shielding.

That is is why I rewire all the cables I sell with shielded cable.

[Hamburglar]

Which SCART switch out of interest? I'm trying to document which ones are good and which ones add noise.

I'm also somewhat certain I got rid of diagonal interference on my SNES by changing the PSU. Certainly some kind of picture noise was eliminated this way.

Here's the two I bought:





Both of them give off the interference, in every console you can think of. RGB modded NES, Genesis, SNES, etc. Hope this info helped, and I hope I can find a good switch some day!

The original japanese SFC RGB cable has better picture than all 3rd party cables and still uses composite video.

I can vouch for this, but does anyone know why this is the case? Every single SNES SCART cable I used, other than the original ones made by Nintendo, give off faint diagonal interference all over the screen. I tried like 3 different makers of the SNES RGB SCART cables and they all did this. But the ones made by Nintendo did not. Is it just higher quality wires?

For reference, I experience this same ugly horizontal interference any time I introduce a SCART switch box in my setup.

It is higher quality wires, and the fact that the huge majority of third party cables for Nintendo consoles are not shielded. Maybe because the AV socket on Nintendo consoles lacks a shielded hood itself. I suppose they think it wouldn't make a difference? You can of course get around this by hooking up the two ground points to outer shielding.

That is is why I rewire all the cables I sell with shielded cable.

I don't think it's shielding because I bought 2 SNES scart cables from you and they both give me the interference. I hope you do not think I am talking bad about your products; I recommend them to everyone. The 32x, Genesis 1, and Genesis 2 cables I got from you have all been fantastic. For some reason, though, the SNES one (both the raw sync and composite sync ones) give me the interference. Again, I am not saying this to talk badly. I thought the info would be useful, since it does not appear that shielding is the issue. Also your awesome cables have the capacitors and everything, just like my official Nintendo one. So it's not shielding, and it's not capacitors! I am scratching my head here Edit: It's also not gold connections, because the official Nintendo one is silver.

[Retro Access]

Are you using the old style (black cable) or the new style (grey cable) - I improved the cabling.

If it's still doing it I need to improve it furthur.

[Hamburglar]

Are you using the old style (black cable) or the new style (grey cable) - I improved the cabling.

If it's still doing it I need to improve it furthur.

I just checked, the cable is black, so it must be the old style. Time to order one from ya and I'll report back with my findings, if it's helpful to you.

Edit: If I order the raw sync SNES cable, will it still be the newer grey cable? Or should I stick to the more standard version?

[Retro Access]

Are you using the old style (black cable) or the new style (grey cable) - I improved the cabling.

If it's still doing it I need to improve it furthur.

I just checked, the cable is black, so it must be the old style. Time to order one from ya and I'll report back with my findings, if it's helpful to you.

Edit: If I order the raw sync SNES cable, will it still be the newer grey cable? Or should I stick to the more standard version?

All of them are replaced with better cable now, so it just depends on which you get the best picture from. It seems that everyone with an issue with raw sync from snes also has it with composite, so it's a problem inherant in the console which the Mini is having trouble with.

If you still get those lines you can of course send the cable back, but I know you have a very good setup and it's more apparent to you on your TV than it is mine so I'd be interested to know if it's fixed.

[Hamburglar]

Are you using the old style (black cable) or the new style (grey cable) - I improved the cabling.

If it's still doing it I need to improve it furthur.

I just checked, the cable is black, so it must be the old style. Time to order one from ya and I'll report back with my findings, if it's helpful to you.

Edit: If I order the raw sync SNES cable, will it still be the newer grey cable? Or should I stick to the more standard version?

All of them are replaced with better cable now, so it just depends on which you get the best picture from. It seems that everyone with an issue with raw sync from snes also has it with composite, so it's a problem inherant in the console which the Mini is having trouble with.

If you still get those lines you can of course send the cable back, but I know you have a very good setup and it's more apparent to you on your TV than it is mine so I'd be interested to know if it's fixed.

Nah I know you're not some megacorporation manufacturing these things, I'm not going to be an ass and send them back. I'll order them from you now and report back!

[BuckoA51]

Here's the two I bought:

The second SCART switch you pictured looks like a derivative of the common "SCART Switch Manual Push Button 5 Way", just with 3 inputs instead, which is known as being bad. The top one I'm not familiar with, it looks like the Hama AV Selector 100S but I don't think it is. Please let me know the make and model number, thank you.

Hope this info helped, and I hope I can find a good switch some day!

Here's a list of switches I've tested, along with some that other people have tested listed at the bottom:- http://www.videogameperfection.com/av-g ... h-roundup/

[Fudoh]

The problem with the upper one is that there're so many versions. Some utter bullshit and others quite nice without any degradation and you can neither tell from the looks nor from the price....

[Rock Man]

The problem with the upper one is that there're so many versions. Some utter bullshit and others quite nice without any degradation and you can neither tell from the looks nor from the price....

I'm using the 4-way version of that silver switcher you guys pointed out. No problems to report, not that I know of, it maintains a very good job at keeping the integrity of the picture.

One thing that's weird about it though. I can never connect it directly to my XRGB-3, the only way it will work is I have to attach it to another switch. The black 5-way adapter. Only then does it register a picture. On the other hand I never had this problem with Universal HD line of converters. Always hooked-in directly with those. I believe they call it the AV switcher or something like that.

[BuckoA51]

Ah, well if you were wondering why your picture is sometimes dark, then I'd wager it was that switch. You probably have to chain it through the other switch just to boost the signal back up again.

[Rock Man]

Nah I doubt it's the reason for darkness. I can confirm the picture through both switchers is fine. Typically with all switchers you'll experience minimal signal loss. I know with Pelican's "Super Game Selector Pro" they confirm in the manual the precise loss drops down by 2 notches. In other words the freshness of the image will be 8/10 instead of 10/10 when the cables are plugged in raw. But the Game Select Pro is an all purpose switcher made for Component, S-Video, and even crappy Composite. However the same logic can be applied to the SCART selector's I use.

They both seem about even in performance and close enough to the original picture. In the silver switches case I give it between 9 and 10. For the black one it's some where in the area of 8 and 9 far as clarity. It adds a tiny layer of color that doesn't seem necessary. The silver one will actually do "AV SCART" too unlike the black one. By AV SCART I mean the type of SCART cable that gives you the compressed composite video. This feature is mainly for benefitting those European TV's that will do SCART but won't take RGB. But the quality loss between the switches doesn't seem to make the picture darker, if it is dark it's the SCART cables fault.

I think the black one is more convenient though, it's the only switcher I know of that will take up to 5 RGB inputs. I swear who ever makes these things seriously needs to consider just making a 15-way MANUAL button switcher so I can forgo with this goofy looking daisy chain method. Hell I'll even take an 8-way switch that does buttons. Any thing is better than 2-5 like these other switchers on the market. My Pelican switch goes up to like 8.

[RGB32E]

I think the black one is more convenient though, it's the only switcher I know of that will take up to 5 RGB inputs. I swear who ever makes these things seriously needs to consider just making a 15-way MANUAL button switcher so I can forgo with this goofy looking daisy chain method. Hell I'll even take an 8-way switch that does buttons. Any thing is better than 2-5 like these other switchers on the market. My Pelican switch goes up to like 8.

Sounds like you need to go pro with something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extron-System-1 ... 2568098810

Though you'll need to get the appropriate adapters though!

[Rock Man]

My brain hurts just thinking about how I'm going to hook that juggernaut into my console SCART'S & Dsub15's, adapters, XRGB-3 and then the SLG3000. To think I strive to get my hands on a DVDOEdge one day.

[BuckoA51]

I can confirm the picture through both switchers is fine

And I can confirm that, in the case of the silver push button one, it's not. Do the tests as advised on my site, you'll see. Just testing a switch with one input plugged in is insufficient to evaluate it properly. Those push button switches don't isolate the other sockets correctly. The weirdness you're already experiencing with it pretty much confirms its screwing things up.

Typically with all switchers you'll experience minimal signal loss

A fully passive switch should introduce only a tiny amount of signal loss. An active switch can potentially boost the signal, of course, allowing for longer cable runs.

it's the only switcher I know of that will take up to 5 RGB inputs

Shinybow do a 6x2 SCART switch.
There's this one from Keene (untested though) http://www.keene.co.uk/electronic/marmi ... /C236.html

Your best bet is to get something high quality like a Shinybow or a Trilogy as the central hub, then daisy chain GOOD quality switches off of that, like the Hama SCART Switchbox 4/1 Model 42957.

Anyway, this is sorta going off topic, so any more questions on switching start a new thread

[RGB32E]

My brain hurts just thinking about how I'm going to hook that juggernaut into my console SCART'S & Dsub15's, adapters, XRGB-3 and then the SLG3000. To think I strive to get my hands on a DVDOEdge one day.

Ha! Your brain should recover! I still need to get rid of this... It works great, but I'm personally not a fan of external switchers.



So, 3 RGB inputs plus audio, 3 component inputs plus audio. Component and RGB output on a different set of connectors, so 4/5 BNC to VGA -> D2 VGA input or JP21 on RGB. 3 BNC to D-Terminal for D1 input!

[Rock Man]

Sensory overload. @_@ *crushes Vegita's scouter*

It just so happens I am in the process of upgrading switchers. I'll be upgrading the SCART leads directly instead of converting them a la conversion cable. In any case that's one monster rig you're sporting there! Here I thought my Ultra Pelican Selector was the monster.

[Hamburglar]

My brain hurts just thinking about how I'm going to hook that juggernaut into my console SCART'S & Dsub15's, adapters, XRGB-3 and then the SLG3000. To think I strive to get my hands on a DVDOEdge one day.

I have a DVDO Edge but planned to sell it to get an XRGB Mini. Now you got me rethinking that with your comment. What would be the benefit of using the XRGB Mini with the Edge? People in the other thread said it would just increase input lag if anything.

Here's the two I bought:

The second SCART switch you pictured looks like a derivative of the common "SCART Switch Manual Push Button 5 Way", just with 3 inputs instead, which is known as being bad. The top one I'm not familiar with, it looks like the Hama AV Selector 100S but I don't think it is. Please let me know the make and model number, thank you.

Hope this info helped, and I hope I can find a good switch some day!

Here's a list of switches I've tested, along with some that other people have tested listed at the bottom:- http://www.videogameperfection.com/av-g ... h-roundup/

Thanks so much!!

[BuckoA51]

What would be the benefit of using the XRGB Mini with the Edge?

Not an awful lot really, you could use the Edge's zoom/pan/under/overscan correction on the Mini's picture. Edge adds about 6ms lag on top in gamer mode.