Console --> Arcade monitor adapter (AVAILABLE, see 1st post)

[elvis]

This controller project sounds great!

I will probably not support:
Sega Saturn (unable to obtain proprietary connector)
Sega Dreamcast (unable to obtain proprietary connector)

The Cthulhu Multi Console controller boards have an RJ45 connector (or just 8 solder points that you can connect your own on the outside of the joystick) on them that allows people to cut leads off old/broken/sacrificial controllers, crimp them up and connect them to the controller board.

http://shoryuken.com/f177/rj-45-multi-c ... -a-231734/
http://shoryuken.com/f177/rj45-detachab ... ow-178604/

That way the various outputs to consoles are supported, and the guys making the PCBs don't need to worry about sourcing hard to find or proprietary connectors. It also means making your own cable extender is cheap and easy.

Dunno if it's worth planning that sort of "DIY" extendibility into your project or not. FWIW, many of the custom sticks being sold out there in the world have RJ45 connectors on the back now, as it's rapidly becoming the most common and easiest way for people to connect one stick to many consoles (and future proof them to some degree too).

Good luck with the project. I'll definitely be interested in a couple of boards when you're done.

[neorichieb1971]

Viletim,

2 of my 3 cabinets only have 3 buttons. How does that work?

I think i'm going to need a couple of CPS2 kick harnesses.

[Trevor spencer]

Viletim are these still aval ?

Ta

[viletim]

elvis,

It's possible, but it wouldn't integrate very well with my existing design which is completely different to the MC Cthulhu. I'd probably end up with three differently wired 8p sockets for each of the two players... It would cause more problems than it would solve.

I will make sure, however, that it is possible to connect the output of my controller board to a pair of MC Cthulhu boards in order to get the best features of both.


neorichieb1971,

Three buttons is adequate for quite a lot of enjoyable games. What do you intend to play?


Trevor spencer,

Sure are. Send me an email.

[neorichieb1971]

neorichieb1971,

Three buttons is adequate for quite a lot of enjoyable games. What do you intend to play?

Thats not the point. The point I am worried about is that many cabs are populated with 3 buttons. So that would be ABC. Therefore, I am concerned how you would map the buttons so I know what buttons are missing. Say for example ps1 and ps2.

In the real world the bottom buttons would be kick harness buttons, is that how you've mapped them? So if X and O for PS1 were kick harness buttons, I wouldn't get any of those buttons on my ABC setup.


Its confusing, because ideally everyone should have kick harness buttons.

[emphatic]

neorichieb1971,

Three buttons is adequate for quite a lot of enjoyable games. What do you intend to play?

Thats not the point. The point I am worried about is that many cabs are populated with 3 buttons. So that would be ABC. Therefore, I am concerned how you would map the buttons so I know what buttons are missing. Say for example ps1 and ps2.

In the real world the bottom buttons would be kick harness buttons, is that how you've mapped them? So if X and O for PS1 were kick harness buttons, I wouldn't get any of those buttons on my ABC setup.


Its confusing, because ideally everyone should have kick harness buttons.

If the first board available is a PS2 compatible unit, the button layout would work very well this way:

JAMMA Controls:
up = up
down = down
left = left
right = right
fire1 = cross
fire2 = circle
fire3 = square
fire4 = triangle
JAMMA test = select
start1 = start

Optional: Add 4 screw connectors for RB1, RB2, LB1, LB2 for those who like to play fighting games. I have this exact setup in my padhack, and I've never found a game that wasn't compatible in my "library" of PSX/PS2 titles (although remapping sadly doesn't exist for some games).

[neorichieb1971]

Hmm, I don't mind that setup. If you had a kick harness it would disrupt that little setup though. Since it would be ideal to utilize the kick harness for the lower buttons. I am not sure how this controller setup is going to work tbh.

[viletim]

neorichieb1971,

Three buttons is adequate for quite a lot of enjoyable games. What do you intend to play?

Thats not the point. The point I am worried about is that many cabs are populated with 3 buttons. So that would be ABC. Therefore, I am concerned how you would map the buttons so I know what buttons are missing. Say for example ps1 and ps2.

Sorry, I should elaborate. It is certainly a valid concern. My approach is to allow the user to remap the controls any time he wants to. There will be a "setup" button on my controller board which, when pressed, will block the video signal to the monitor and show a setup menu instead. The user can then configure the controls to his liking. It will also be possible to save multiple configurations for different games/situations.

Any siwitch can be mapped to any controller input. If you don't have enough buttons for a particular game and you are playing along, you can map some of Player 2's buttons to work for Player 1. You could map Player 1's left and right joystick switches to the Playstation's start and select buttons if you so desired. It will even be possible to map the setup button to something more convenient.

Kick harnesses will have support too, as previously mentioned. CPS1, CPS2 and Mortal Kombat harnesses can plug directly into the board.

[neorichieb1971]

Ok, its starting to make sense. I never realized you were a God.

[emphatic]

Ok, its starting to make sense. I never realized you were a God.

+1

[Trevor spencer]

Trevor spencer,

Sure are. Send me an email.

Email sent

[Sparda]

Hi guys, today a friend and i tried our adapters on an Atomiswave. At first, no pictures and a buzz in the speaker. The voltage was set at 9V, so we set it a 12V.......and the adapter was working, nice picture on screen (despite the 480i...an xbox1 full of emus was plugged). But the buzzing noise is still there, we've try many settings, with the white "thing", with or without jumper...But still the awful annoying buzzing sound... So any solution for our problem ?

[neorichieb1971]

Breakout leads from the scart? Scart always buzzes.

[Sparda]

The scart was modified with viletim's rgb diagram...When i said a "buzz", its really a loud one...very annoying for ears. I would like to try on another cab, but in our town, theres only few peoples with

But even, without the scart plugged, when we turned on the cab..with only the adapter plugged, the "buzz of death" ^^ can be heard

[viletim]

Sparda,

What type of power supply is inside your cabinet? Is it a Japanese one designed for 100V AC input?

[neorichieb1971]

This is weird is because when i had a AWSD it worked fine with all Viletims stuff. In fact it was bullet proof.

I am sure Wonderbanana had no such problems (I sold it to him).

[antron]

Breakout leads from the scart? Scart always buzzes.

And I get no buzzing with any of my plain SCART cables, and they are almost all cheap Chinese shit. Egret 1, stock PS. Model 1 JAMMA adapter.

[Sparda]

its a japanese power supply, 110V, and its not my cab, so i cant make any test. But ive read about the D1 cable on Atomiswave, plugging or unplugging it can resolve some problems.

[viletim]

its a japanese power supply, 110V, and its not my cab, so i cant make any test. But ive read about the D1 cable on Atomiswave, plugging or unplugging it can resolve some problems.

Japan = 100V
USA = 120V

The power supply will be rated for a particular input voltage or a range between two voltages. You should check whether the input voltage is the same as the rated voltage or not. I have had a few customers complain of noise in the audio when connected to a Japanese power supply, changing the power supply to a local one solved the problem.

Another posibility is there is something wrong with the speaker in the cabinet. It is original? does it work on other game boards?

The final posibility is that there is a fault in the adapter board... but this is not very likely.

[Sparda]

I cant check the power supply because its not my cab, but i'll ask my friend to check it for me. As for the speakers, they are working with PCBs, sound is really good. We've try 2 adapter, and same "sound" problem with the two ones. So i dont think your board is faulty ^_^

[bencao74]

Hi Tim, any news on your controller project ?

It's ticking along... at about half way through the development cycle right now.

It takes a parallel input, that is one button per wire of 30 switches (enough for any arcade control panel, even mahjong) 24 of which come from the JAMMA harness via the box header. The other six from an assortment of kick harness headers. I've got CPS1, CPS2, MK1 and MK2 at the moment. I think that's all of them really - unless I add that insane Namco thing.

The output be parallel, or can emulate a number of console controller protocols depending on what is plugged into the output which takes the form of another box header. I will have cables available to connect between the output and the game console itself.

I will definitely have support for:
Sega Master System
Sega Mega Drive
Super Nintendo
Sony Playstation 1 and 2
Nintendo Gamecube
Standard USB Joystick
Sony Playstation 3
Microsoft Xbox

I may have support for:
PS/2 Keyboard
Neo Geo
PC Engine

I will probably not support:
Sega Saturn (unable to obtain proprietary connector)
Sega Dreamcast (unable to obtain proprietary connector)
Microsoft Xbox 360 (encrypted)
Nintendo Wii (use Gamecube port instead, no need to wave an arcade control panel around in the air)

And the parallel output which I have previously mentioned. By parallel output I mean the terminal block board can be connected here for a one wire per button output like Neo Geo. It sounds a bit useless, parallel input to a parallel output, but it makes sense when you consider hacked game pads can have their buttons remapped, and third party controller encoders (such as the "PS360" Xbox 360 interface board that somebody was talking about a while ago) can be totally integrated.

Controls can be configured easily with an on screen menu system. Internal software (some like to call it firmware) will be upgradable by USB. When I say console support I mean for two players, just to make it clear.

That's all off the top of my head, and should give you a general idea of what to expect.

Hey Viletim,

I`ve developed with some friends the project called Dual Strike, which is might worth a look for your controller project. We`re working on Dual Strike now since let`s say about 2 years and I`m now in hardware revision 3,


http://www.arcadeforge.de/?page_id=127

From the beginning Dual Strike is open source and some spin off project exists so far down in the SRK Forum (Teasy, Teasy Strike, Dual Strike SMD, EX Strike)

I`ve decided on UPCB compatible 20pin connector for connecting "impossible" to implement consoles protocols (xbox360 security, dc VMU).

This connector is used on other device like a LED RGB controller (http://sparky.32teeth.org/). For all strike devices refer to (http://strike-devices.net/) as well.

So by just adding such a 20 pin connector to your board you could benefit from

- Dual Strike PCB (PS3 with home button, PC HID Joystick, Keyboard, Mame Keyboard Encoder, xbox1 and hacked Pads like xbo360, all consoles are detected automatically even a trackballs are supported)

- RGB LED Controller Sparky (connect to ARC EYEs, solderless RGB LED PCB for seimitsu clear pushbuttons)

- TEasy (solderless piggyback interface for xbox360 TE PCBs)

- UPCB (generic console support via dedicated cables , no autodetect)

- EX Strike (Strike connector expander)

Here`s the documentation of Dual Strike (https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AV5u ... ZnZo&hl=en)

What do you think?

[Sparda]

Hi guys,

some news about my "sound problem"..... i've sent my adapter to a friend with an Egret 2 and he did many test with many consoles (Saturn, PS2, DC..)...and all was perfect, picture..sound..a true bliss ^_^. So the board isnt faulty, but there's something wrong with the Atomiswave. Maybe the D1 cable...

Thanks for all Tim


best regards from France ^^

[emphatic]

Hi guys,

some news about my "sound problem"..... i've sent my adapter to a friend with an Egret 2 and he did many test with many consoles (Saturn, PS2, DC..)...and all was perfect, picture..sound..a true bliss ^_^. So the board isnt faulty, but there's something wrong with the Atomiswave. Maybe the D1 cable...

Thanks for all Tim


best regards from France ^^

Actually, the stepdown you're using with your AWSD should be the reason as viletim has already stated:

Japan = 100V
USA = 120V

Unless the We-Ya PSU get 100V, it simply won't function properly which is surely the reason for your issues. You can get JAMMA PSU for cheap, so just switch it out.

[Sparda]

thanks, but like i said, i dont have a cab at home, im still waiting to find an Egret 2 after my wedding

I dont like 15/24/31hz platin, they have geometry problem, but i'll send a message to my friend and tell him to make more test with his Atomiswave and maybe telling him to buy a new PSU.

Thanks for all guys

@Emphatic: many thanks for your website and the settings for the 360 ports

[emphatic]

@Emphatic: many thanks for your website and the settings for the 360 ports

Glad you like it!

[Trevor spencer]

Anymore news on the controller project ?

[antron]

^ yes, you can. the adapter even has screw terminals for every signal so you don't even need a jamma connector.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Hey Viletim,

I`ve developed with some friends the project called Dual Strike, which is might worth a look for your controller project. We`re working on Dual Strike now since let`s say about 2 years and I`m now in hardware revision 3,


http://www.arcadeforge.de/?page_id=127

From the beginning Dual Strike is open source and some spin off project exists so far down in the SRK Forum (Teasy, Teasy Strike, Dual Strike SMD, EX Strike)

I`ve decided on UPCB compatible 20pin connector for connecting "impossible" to implement consoles protocols (xbox360 security, dc VMU).

This connector is used on other device like a LED RGB controller (http://sparky.32teeth.org/). For all strike devices refer to (http://strike-devices.net/) as well.

So by just adding such a 20 pin connector to your board you could benefit from

- Dual Strike PCB (PS3 with home button, PC HID Joystick, Keyboard, Mame Keyboard Encoder, xbox1 and hacked Pads like xbo360, all consoles are detected automatically even a trackballs are supported)

- RGB LED Controller Sparky (connect to ARC EYEs, solderless RGB LED PCB for seimitsu clear pushbuttons)

- TEasy (solderless piggyback interface for xbox360 TE PCBs)

- UPCB (generic console support via dedicated cables , no autodetect)

- EX Strike (Strike connector expander)

Here`s the documentation of Dual Strike (https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AV5u ... ZnZo&hl=en)

What do you think?

For bencao74,

Will this Dual Strike PCB work on viletim's 1st generation produced Scart to Jamma adapter or not?

It seems that the upcoming latest revision PS360 controller encoder PCB is still under production and still hasn't been properly released yet.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[viletim]

Will this Dual Strike PCB work on viletim's 1st generation produced Scart to Jamma adapter or not?

It will.

[ckong]

Anymore news on the controller project ?

Bump