question about my arcade stick

[queenfart]

I have a HRAP3 SA. Although it is great for fighting games, its Sanwa JLF stick doesn't feel accurate enough for small twitch movements required for shmups.

I'm thinking about replacing the stick with a Semitsu stick or just putting on a tighter spring (a Semitsu spring) on the stick. As far as I know, the major difference between a Sanwa and a Semitsu stick is the latter's smaller dead zone and tighter spring (I could be wrong). What do you guys think I should do?

[STG~PASI]

I would imagine that changing the spring wouldn't really increase the accuracy as the deadzone (or is it dead zone?) would remain the same.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

I've heard that by using a Suzo 500 joystick setup, it has an even smaller joystick throw compared to the Sanwa & Seimitsu joysticks (resulting in a much smaller deadzone space). But trying to source one or a pair is another thing altogether -- they're just plain HTF nowdays, especially in brand new condition.

Shmupper oxtsu has said in the past that the original Neo-Geo AES arcade sticks use a specially made Seimitsu branded joystick with a shorter joystick throw point (compared to what Sanwa & Seimitsu make nowdays) and wished that something like that was made for the full-sized Seimitsu arcade joysticks for use in the full-sized Japanese candy cab control panel setups. It'd be interesting if it could be manufactured though -- the tactical response of such an original AES arcade stick is quite tight, especially when playing the AES/MVS shmup titles such as Blazing Star wth a supergun setup or through an MV-1 mobo itself (via the built-in P1 & P2 controller ports).

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[queenfart]

I'll probably stick to playing shmups with a keyboard, because I'm unsure if I want to spend the money on a full semitsu stick

[shmuppyLove]

Not sure where you're located, but LS-32s are < $20 from Lizard Lick:

http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-32_p_418.html

Slightly more for the PCB version (which is much easier to wire):

http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-32-01_p_422.html

I can't recall what the innards of the HRAP series look like, but I believe they offer both SA and SE variants with Sanwa and Seimitsu parts respectively. I would imagine it's a pretty straightforward swap? Possibly the wiring is slightly different, you'd have to find the pinout for each harness (not difficult, probably on Slagcoin).

[queenfart]

I am honestly unsure if it would be an easy swap; the size of a semitsu 32 is larger than the jlf which fits in the stick perfectly.
Also, although I would like to be able to play my shmups on a stick, I'm not sure if the increased sensitivity of a 32 or 40 would make me play shmups better than on a keyboard. I'll consider it for later.

[StarCreator]

Seimitsu compatibility in Hori cases vary depending on model - some have mounting plates that can only accomodate Sanwa or Hori's generic lever, others have universal mounting plate designs. You can do some research if you want to know what you have, the info is out there.

For wiring, you probably have to get the PCB-less version of the lever - Hori generally solders 8 individual wires to each switch directly rather than using a harness+connector+PCB.

[Thjodbjorn]

I'm pretty sure all the HRAP3s use the wiring harness. I never had an SA, but the regular HRAP3 I had used a wiring harness.

[queenfart]

.

[Thjodbjorn]

A swap with a seimitsu would be a piece of cake then. That looks like an "S plate"... is it? If it is, just buy this:
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-32-01_p_422.html

I do prefer a seimitsu stick for shmups, though if for some reason I decide to use my sanwa, I'm not too upset about it.

Haha, didn't realize I posted the exact same link as the other person. Well, that's two votes for that stick, then...

[StarCreator]

Interesting - I guess it's just the 360 variants that have the individual wires then, since that's all I've ever owned.

[shmuppyLove]

Interesting - I guess it's just the 360 variants that have the individual wires then, since that's all I've ever owned.

The "cheaper" Hori sticks don't use geniune parts, they are Hori knock-offs. The "SA" and "SE" versions are more expensive because they use real off-the-shelf Sanwa and Seimitsu parts and are very easy to modify.

[StarCreator]

Interesting - I guess it's just the 360 variants that have the individual wires then, since that's all I've ever owned.

The "cheaper" Hori sticks don't use geniune parts, they are Hori knock-offs. The "SA" and "SE" versions are more expensive because they use real off-the-shelf Sanwa and Seimitsu parts and are very easy to modify.

I'm fully aware. But all of Hori's 360 offerings solder wires directly to each switch rather than using the standard harnesses, presumably because their 360 PCBs are not common ground (the harness requires all four switches to share a ground wire). This includes sticks that can't be considered "cheap" like the all-Seimitsu RAP EX-SE - though I can't say for certain this is still true in newer sticks like the VLX since I've never seen their wiring.

[Thjodbjorn]

I haven't opened my EX-SE, but the 360's VX-SA and VLX both use wiring harnesses for their sticks.

[queenfart]

i'm a bit confused here, since im not very good with sticks. i cant seem to pull the wire harness off, does that mean that its soldered on? ive heard that my v3sa doesnt have a "non common ground pcb" but im not very sure what it means