XRGB-3

[Fudoh]

As long as the Samsung has got a VGA input, I would try the XRGB alone first, then an Extron RGB Sync Interface and only if nothing else helps, another scaler in the chain.

[Konsolkongen]

The Gefen scaler rebuilds the XRGB sync into something most TV's can work with right? Does it accept 1080p? I'm thinking of picking a Samsung Plasma, and I have the feeling the compatibility I currently enjoy with my 37" LCD monitor is going to fly out the window...

Yes the Gefen accepts 1080p from the XRGB-3, but only with V-sync off.

EDIT: Here is a picture I took of Valkyria Chronicles II on PSP running in 1080p on the XRGB-3. Picture is downscaled a bit by photobucket...
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1296328817

[SGGG2]

A strange little discovery. Even at the best settings, the vertical sync with my Genesis (SCART > Game in) is far too shaky for my liking. Somehow switching the "Screen Size" to "Uscn" calms it down a bit. The Genny works fine through the X-Select in B0, but the signal is totally unusable in B1.

[Fudoh]

I'll hopefully be revisiting the MD/Genesis to XRGB situation soon and I'll do my utmost possible to get this running like a charm

[speedlolita]

I can't say I've had any problems with my MD via RGB SCART to my 2+ - or does 3 handle it differently?

[SGGG2]

I have two model 1's and two 1080p LCD monitors and the problem's the same no matter what. With the screen size set to "Uscn" it pretty nice on my 23" and, uh, not as nice as I'd like on my 37" but definitely better. I don't mind a bit of wobblyness for 3D games, but can't stand it in most 2D ones. Has anyone got it working with their XSelect in B1, or have a link to the Genesis CSYNC mod?

EDIT: I should add that I normally sit less than 3 feet from the screen, with "Uscn" enabled it's not an issue at a normal viewing distance.

[Konsolkongen]

Mod here:

http://mmmonkey.co.uk/console/sega/md-sync.htm

[BuckoA51]

Mark1 Genesis is perfect for me too and no composite sync mod done. If I really look hard, I can see what might be jailbars on some colours, but you really have to look for them. (Genesis RGB Scart->XRGB3 B1->DVDO Edge or Gefen->Sony LCD).

My friend gave me his old Mark 2 Sega Mega Drive last night, I wonder if it's worth trying to pick up a Master System converter Mark 2 to see if it works any better?

[Konsolkongen]

I'm using the Master System Converter II so don't bother. Besides it's pretty expensive :/

[Strider77]

I can't say I've had any problems with my MD via RGB SCART to my 2+ - or does 3 handle it differently?

I have used a genesis 1 and 2 with the XRGB 2, 2+ and 3. I had great results on all of them. I did have to rewire the scart lead for the megadrive 2, that was due to it being wired with the composite for the sync though.

I'm starting to think a lot of my easy and great results are due to using the XRGB3 with a multi sync HD CRT television. God I LOVE my sony.

[BuckoA51]

Strange how the XRGB3 struggles with using composite video for sync when that is the standard. I'm using composite video for sync on my Mk1 Megadrive as stated before, with good results. I didn't think you could tap either Megadrive/Genesis's composite sync without a mod to correct the signal.

[Konsolkongen]

The MegaDrive have a dedicated C.Sync pin in it's AV out port. On the MegaDrive 1 however this is connected to the input pin on the Sony CXA1145 chip. It still works, but in some cases you can solve sync issues by using the C.sync output pin on the chip instead.

[Kiel]

no problems with my mega drive and xrgb-3 but I'm guessing its because I use it with and xmd-1

[Fudoh]

I always thought the RGB output on the XMD-1/2/3 units are unprocessed RGB "through-puts" and the purpose of the units was just to provide a more useable RGB connector along with S-Video output. But possibly the XMD units involve sync processing with a LM1881 or something similar...

[BuckoA51]

The Extron arrived today, it made no discoverable difference to my setup, I had hoped it might cure the shakiness on the TV's native VGA handling but sadly not. No go with the Master System, I'll try with a MVS if I can get my hands on one though.

[Konsolkongen]

[RGB32E]

I always thought the RGB output on the XMD-1/2/3 units are unprocessed RGB "through-puts" and the purpose of the units was just to provide a more useable RGB connector along with S-Video output. But possibly the XMD units involve sync processing with a LM1881 or something similar...

Nope, I believe that most, if not all of the XMDs use the CXA1145P with a 74HC132AP for sync buffering. Here are pics from my XMD-3:





So, if someone's using RGB from a XMD, it's passing through two RGB encoders!

[trunk]

I can't say I've had any problems with my MD via RGB SCART to my 2+ - or does 3 handle it differently?

I have used a genesis 1 and 2 with the XRGB 2, 2+ and 3. I had great results on all of them. I did have to rewire the scart lead for the megadrive 2, that was due to it being wired with the composite for the sync though.

I'm starting to think a lot of my easy and great results are due to using the XRGB3 with a multi sync HD CRT television. God I LOVE my sony.

I also run a genesis 2 on xrgb-2+ and xrgb-3 just fine. I rewired the scart lead as strider did and I also added capacitors and grounded all the grounds. This gives little to no audio buzz and more correct color(too bright otherwise without caps)

Here are 2 shots of my Genesis 2:



and a close up:

[Rock Man]

Okay, just finished setting up my XRGB-3.

The picture is everything they say it looks like it has the Coosis 1080p Ultimate beat! That was a solid converter in it's own right but XRGB is a more suitable for older equipment. I haven't even scratched the surface either, I just hooked up like 10 consoles a lla SCART RGB switcher and went nuts. This is what I've been waiting for all my life!

I haven't really been following the whole thread but I was told this was the place to go to ask for assistance. So I got everything connected alright but can't access linedoubling. (I'm assuming this produces scanlines) I'm aware XRGB-3 comes with some kind of USB-A connector port and a Windows CD. The USB-A thing is an unknown anomaly to me, I've only seen regular USB's I'm new to this specific type. Measured the size of the USB-A port on the XRGB and size of the USB slots on my PC. I think I got normal USB slots and not the A-Type. So how does this work exactly? Am I supposed to buy a USB with the normal connection on one end and the USB-A connector on the other, plug the familiar part into the PC while the A connector inserts at the XRGB-3? Or would I need strictly a USB-A and computer with compatible slot so I can install firmware from PC, eject and transfer to the XRGB unit? I surmise it's one or the other, can anyone confirm which?

Also once I get that squared away what should I do with the Windows disc? Was it made to work in conjunction with each firmware you download or do I simply use as a one-time install to open up XRGB firmware extractor on my computer. Sorry if I'm making this seem complicated when it's not. I just need to make sure I do everything exactly right. If I can pull a successful firmware install on the first try I'll be able to familiarize myself when installing any and all future updates.

One other question, I'm seeking two features: English menus and linedoubling. Assuming I figure out how to connect USB-A I just download the English firmware from here: http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ and it will come with linedoubling mode already installed or do I have to download it on the first page of this thread as well as get the English firmware from the site. This English will make it so that I can read the XRGB-3 menus, correct?

[Fudoh]

You have to do two firmware upgrades.

The english firmware (and B0 update) can he found here:
http://www.micomsoft.co.jp/xrgb3_update ... 2eRev2.exe

And the linedoubling B1 firmware can be found here:
http://www.micomsoft.co.jp/xrgb3_update ... _v1_00.exe

Do the english update first and then the B1 update.
USB-A type connectors are quite common on charging cradles or other larger stuff.... the other end connects to a standard USB port on your PC.

You don't need the CD or any other software. That's just for using the Picture in Picture function in conjunction with a Windows PC.

[Rock Man]

Wow! You just answered it all rather decisively, Fudoh. Thank you so kindly!

Gonna go grab me a USB-A connect from Staples. I should be fine. I'll hit yall up if I need help again.

[Rock Man]

Updated the XRGB-3 with the firmware but ran into a few problems. If I put it in 640 x 480 the picture is too shaky, and placed at the far right of the screen partially cut off. Also, don't know if this is normal but the other resolutions display in the same size on my TV, 640 x 480 is the only one with a different screen size and it's currently not showing properly. Is there a way to fix the display so that it doesn't shake or lean towards the right? I've tried screen adjust but that doesn't do anything, is there maybe a way I could reset the settings?

My screen adjust settings (Output H/V Pos.) don't seem to be working at all. They were working fine before I installed the firmware. Does the firmware inhibit the ability to move Horizontal and Vertical positions of the screen option?

EDIT: Odd, for a minute I was able to correct the problem.... some what. I got the screen resolutions and screen positioning features back, but for some reason it disabled scanlines. While I was in the process of getting the scanlines to work again, it went back to the same problem with the rippling picture on the far right side. I regained access to scanlines but now it's the same shaking picture. I'm at wits end, any suggestions?

I'm thinking maybe I missed a firmware update. Fudoh, I was able to download the updates in that last post, is there any other vital firmware? I would like to experience all features if that's possible. Also, don't know if this helps but after I downloaded those two and reconnected the XRGB-3 I accidentally had the VGA cord in the wrong slot. (Plugged in in "VGA IN" instead of "VGA OUT" like I should have) I remember being annoyed with myself for doing that, once I realized my mistake I inserted it into the "OUT" part. Could my blunder of had something to do with it? Is the firmware at fault or is it actually supposed to be like this where the screen adjust and certain res are disabled in order to accommodate scanlines?

[BuckoA51]

When you say 640x480 you are using B1 mode right? No point using such a resolution in B0.

Output H/V Pos doesn't work in B1. Scanlines don't work in B0.

Welcome to the world of the XRGB3, all these kinds of problems are completely normal! You'll need to feed the XRGB3 into another videoprocessor such as the Gefen or the DVDO Edge to eliminate them. Either that or use a different display.

In many ways the XRGB3 is hopelessly dated, but as you've seen nothing comes close to it for picture quality.

[Fudoh]

As mentioned, you're familiar with the two firmware banks and the switching between the two ?

A friend of mine ran into the "picture shifted to the right" issue on his Samsung LCD. You can't fix this in B1 mode through the XRGB, but you can use a sync interface between the XRGB and the TV and this will fix it.

Switching resolutions doesn't do anything in B1 mode, but it was suggested that setting the output to 640x480 nevertheless improves the pixel mapping a little bit.

Don't forget to reset the XRGB after the FW updates.

[BuckoA51]

Sync interface doesn't help with the shaky picture though (or at least it did not for me).

[Fudoh]

On my old TV (Sony XBR5) I didn't use a sync interface, but on my new one (Sony HX900) the XRGB won't work at all when fed with a 480p signal, so it's a must for me. It would also fix Rock Man's picture shift issue.

@BuckoA51: if you have the neccessary cables you could try putting the Interface on the input side of the XRGB instead on the output.

[BuckoA51]

Funny you should mention that as I had the same idea myself, I've just ordered a SCART to VGA cable in order to give that a go.

[fagin]

Fudoh,
Since you seem to be one of the XRGB Guru's on here , would you say that the XRGB3 is a worthwhile purchase even if I had the SLG3000 and a good line doubler and/or scaler already? Taking in to account the only thing I would be using it for is retro consoles to LCD (all consoles) or multisync CRT (480i stuff) - mostly from RGB SCART.

[Fudoh]

It's a question of money and your need for lag-free processing. I would say that a DVDO Edge plus a HDFury is the better purchase, but it's also slightly more expensive ($400 for the Edge and $100 for the HDFury). Some of the DVDO processors and the XRGB-3 are the only affordable video processors to offer near lag-free processing. You can go cheaper, but you'll lose a bit of quality and you'll add lag.

The Edge *PLUS* the XRGB-3 was a very nice multi-purpose setup in the past, but with the SLG3000 in the pay, I would only go for the Edge. Apart from a tiny advantage in the sharpness of the 480p output, there's nothing the XRGB can do and the Edge (+HDFury and SLG3000) can't do. The Edge is also much less trouble when it comes to connecting various systems.

All the above is of course only true for B1 fans. If you want to use the XRGB for it's B0 mode (which I don't), that's a different play.

[BuckoA51]

I personally would never trade my XRGB3 for this scanline generator thing, but then I don't always use scanlines, they are a novelty to me not a necessity. Having used both the XRGB3 and the Edge for 240p material the XRGB3 wins hands down. The XRGB3 might have plenty of warts, but there's a reason its stuck around so long.

Also, if your TV's VGA input is not very good (or if it doesn't even have a VGA input) then with the Edge + HD Fury + SLG3000 setup, you're going to need ANOTHER thing in your chain to convert the now analogue signal back to digital! If you're rich you could go for one of ABT's higher end processors i.e the VP50 pro which has direct analogue out. In this setup you won't need the HD Fury but that will set you back more than the cost of a DVDO Edge plus an XRGB3, and won't even look as nice, especially if you aren't using scanlines all the time.

So, I disagree with Fudoh's assessment to a degree, but as he says you have to make your own mind up based on your particular budget, needs and preferences. Everyone's different, in fact I think we're the exception here considering most people are happy to let their TV's butcher the picture from their retro consoles by plugging directly into the SCART without a linedoubler.